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  1. 5 likes
    STEP 1: Do your raw processing. Don't forget the noise removal, this is VITALLY important. STEP 2 - THE LAYERS: First, duplicate the Background layer. If it suits you, rename it as I have done. We'll come back to that layer shortly. Next, add a Levels adjustment layer: STEP 3: Option-click on the "Auto" button in the Levels dialog: It will bring up this little window. Make sure it's set to "Enhance Per Channel Contrast". This will change the colour of the photo significantly, and make the contrast very aggressive: The changed colour and added contrast will help you see the dirt spots more clearly, in order to remove them more effectively. STEP 4: Return to the Dirt Fix layer and choose your Patch Tool: Since you said you haven't used it, I'm going to explain it fairly thoroughly here. First, you draw a little selection around a spot. Make sure you leave a little bit of room around it, but not too much: Then click in the middle of that area, and drag away to an area of very similar detail. In this case, I dragged to the right, and ever so slightly up. I watched the live preview inside the selected area, to make sure the cloud lined up properly: (It'll make sense once you try it.) When you release the mouse button, it will replace the dirt spot with good detail: Then you can hit Cmd D to deselect the area (get rid of the marching ants): Repeat that process for all the spots you can see. In this photo, I was able to use the Patch Tool to get rid of all the spots in the photo except this one: The reason that one didn't work was that it occurs in an area of too complex detail - that is, where a line of cloud intersects with a faint mountain outline. The Patch Tool in this area would have mushed that detail unacceptably. So ... STEP 5 - CLONING: Choose the Clone Tool, and check the settings. The "Sample" must be on "Current and Below" (at all times, not just for this photo), and for this one use 20% for opacity: Then gently clone out that last spot: FINISH: Once all the spots are gone, delete the Levels layer, and your photo is clear and ready for your usual editing procedure:
  2. 2 likes
    Could this work?
  3. 2 likes
    Oh, this is every bit as bad as I feared. This is so so so so so so so so so bad. You must NEVER do that. You need to understand how big these raw files are, and how you are doubling the burden on your hard drive when you do this. Essentially, you're halving the capacity of your computer, for absolutely no benefit. And I can't stress this enough. ABSOLUTELY no benefit. Whatever benefit you think exists, I assure you it does not. Have you ever read the phrase "non-destructive editing"?
  4. 1 like
    No, I havent , but ill have a google. Thanks
  5. 1 like
    After that, you'd start your normal Levels work.
  6. 1 like
    i found another folder in Users/[user name]/Library/Preferences/Adobe Photoshop CC Settings/Actions palette.psp . Actions palette.psp seems like a compressed file. I cannot open it. If I click "open," my Photoshop would pop up. Also, I found settings of all my previous versions of Photoshops in that folder. I might have to delete that and see what happen.
  7. 1 like
    ok so they will for sure print this on a 4X6 which is small will it still look ok and then possible a photo button which is even smaller.
  8. 1 like
    No problem. The knowledge that you share with all of us is truly the best thing ever! Thank you for sharing!
  9. 1 like
    The best in the world, I promise: https://www.damiensymonds.net/trainingraw.html As much as possible. While your raw data is still raw data, make the most of it. Once you transfer to Photoshop, it's still good data, but no longer that amazing quality raw data.
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    Thank you! I don't know why I lack confidence in any picture with a that isn't a close up.
  12. 1 like
    That looks good at this size. I wish the skirting board didn't have a bend in it
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    So maybe you should have ignored that part completely, and cloned from smoother areas?
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    Ah yes. Hold on, I'll upload an Elements version ... Elements-friendly PSD file
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    Yes, that's looking promising so far.
  19. 1 like
    No, DEFINITELY not. It's gradients. https://www.damiensymonds.net/preventing-banding-in-backdrops/
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    Definitely DON'T use gradients on the masks. The masks must remain all white. Use as many gradient layers as you need. Maybe you'll wish to put them on a blend mode, such as "Multiply" or "Screen", but in some cases "Normal" mode will be fine. Make sure you make good use of transparency in the gradients. I want to help you more, I really do, but I need to see what you have in mind. DO NOT USE MASKS. I can't stress this enough.
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    This isn't perfect, but should be adequate: Download PSD
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    You're becoming a pro at this! Looks good.
  29. 1 like
    That is part of the pixel editing - it definitely goes below the Levels layers. You're doing everything just right.
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  32. 1 like
    No, I think you've made it worse. Leave this one as is.
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    Honestly, yes, I'd use a solid colour layer, then a D&B layer clipped to it to add a bit of shape.
  35. 1 like
    Should the bottom right corner point be dragged downwards a bit? Where the wall meets the carpet doesn't look horizontal.
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    It'll be transparent once you turn off the Background layer
  38. 1 like
    Yes, that's right, perspective correction must always be done on a duplicate layer. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/03/distortion-or-perspective-correction.html
  39. 1 like
    Oh gee, I wish you'd asked my advice earlier. I would have recommended correcting the perspective as well as rotating, before starting all the cloning. Still, what you've done is freakin' amazing! Well done. Does it have to be brick? What's wrong with the shop window that's already there?
  40. 1 like
    Oh, don't worry about that. The uploaders are never colour-managed.
  41. 1 like
    I will post one when I have finished, thank you for your help!!!
  42. 1 like
    I was trying to remember what this was called, yes it is much better!!!
  43. 1 like
    I find your gratitude underwhelming. I just doubled your hard drive space and saved you a stack of money! I'm out at the park with the kids at the moment, I'll explain the dirt fix as soon as we get home.
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    "Non-destructive editing" is an overly-dramatic term. Basically, it means that you can edit a raw file as often, or as aggressively, as you like, and you never actually change the raw file. The adjustments are made to the xmp data, and the original raw data is never altered in any way. At any time, you can return to the original raw file, no matter what changes you've made to its white balance, exposure, etc. Because of this, it's utterly unnecessary to make duplicates of raw files. As I said, it just fills up your hard drive space twice as fast, for absolutely no benefit. Of course you must always make backups, yes. But never duplicates. So before I show you how to fix this smog problem, can you please promise me you'll cease duplicating your raw files?
  46. 1 like
    Yes, I've had very good success with these in the past. I'm sure we'll be able to manage it. Wonderful! Can you post your SOOR for me? (Raw edits done, but no Photoshop work)
  47. 1 like
    Because I'm heading off soon, here's the PSD. Of course, if it doesn't meet your needs, we can discuss it further when I get back.
  48. 1 like
    Download my PSD First, I duplicated the Background layer twice, and ran High Pass filter on both of them - first broad, and second narrow. This brings out the detail a bit. It also creates halos, but since those were in the example photo you linked too, I figured it was ok - part of the style. Then a Levels layer for an aggressive vignette. And finally another Levels layer for the hazy look. Make sure you look at all of the channels in this layer.
  49. 1 like
    HI Damien, I have been working on this for two days! lol I wanted to share what I have so far. I am waiting on more photos to make this complete. Thanks again for all your help!
  50. 1 like
    Well, for a quickie, first add a Levels layer and move the middle slider to about 1.25. Then add a Channel Mixer layer, check the "Monochrome" box, and enter +100/0/0/0 for the values. Change that layer's blend mode to "Overlay" then lower its opacity to your taste.