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Thank you @Brian. I actually did get it figured out finally after much digging on the internet. The answer was to un-check "Use Windows Ink" in the settings box but I had to turn it off for all the functions (tablet, pen, and general). SO glad I got it figured out! Thanks.

Hello again, did nearly all your classes in 12 months, then I have had nearly 12 months off, now I am ready to pretty well do them all again, as there is so much info in here that not everything sticks first time around, and after playing for the last 12 mths I may have more of an idea about certain things in photoshop now that I had no idea of before. We have also bought another property up at Einasleigh in North Queensland, so lot mort photo opportunities when I go up there. Excited to be back learning.

Thanks for coming to visit my new site! I know this is a big change from my Ask Damien facebook page, but I hope you'll grow to like it. My aim is to ensure the highest quality answers to your questions, with none of the distracting chit-chat of social media. Feel free to look around and once you've joined up, start asking me questions. Reply below and let me know what you think of the new place!

Yes. There's some discussion about this at the end of the Bridge Class.

Yes, I plan to finish BR soon! wishing the next week or so. Ive been taking a lot of notes and just practicing on old images to get the gist of things.

Good.

As soon as you've finished the Bridge Class, the Raw Class is the next one to take.

Those days are gone. From now on, you do all your editing by yourself, with my guidance.

This is definitely not true, I'm pleased to say. Your photos are great. Edit them properly, then give the full-resolution jpeg files to the client, and they'll be able to print them as big as a factory wall if they like.

OMG, really?

That's because you sent them those stupid tiny jpeg files!

You did it! And I'm very pleased to say the focus is PERFECT ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ If all your photos are like this, you're a champion. Nothing to worry about.

Now, we need to get back to your actual question. Have you found the raw files of your group shoot?

No, show me a screenshot of the full-size original photo open in Photoshop.

OK, I need the details: Aperture | Shutter Speed | ISO Which focusing Mode and where was your focus point? Because the only reliable Focus Point with a 6D is the Center AF Point. (I mentioned this above.) Plus it doesn't help that you look to be in a small space, so I'm thinking f/8 or even f/11 might have been a better choice. f/5.6 may not give you enough Depth of Field. Which is what I'm really leaning towards in this photo. From what I can tell, it's about 4-5 feet between the front row of faces and back row. That's a lot content that you want in focus. Oh, I need a 700x700 crop of the original photo of where you put the AF point. Follow these instructions: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2013/09/grabbing-700x700px-100-crop.html

Once the layered file is saved as a PSD, then yes, flatten the layers, crop to print size, sharpen, then save as a jpeg.

@Damien Symonds - Can you help Gretchen out with this one? I've never used a Wacom Tablet.

More info and my thoughts on a Mac Mini:

Don't. If you are editing photos that is. The current Mac Minis only look good on Apple Displays, and there aren't any affordable Apple Displays on the market currently. Unless you want to spend around $6000 for just the display. No, I'm not kidding. The current Mac Minis need 4K Displays, but things like graphics might be ok, but stuff like Text won't be as clear and nowhere near what you are used to seeing. Mac Minis sound great...you have a display and peripherals, heck...you can get a new Mac for less money!! Whoo-Hoo!!! Except that expectations and reality are two different things. if you still are determined on buying a new Mac Mini, especially one of the new M1 models, make sure you upgrade EVERYTHING AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE. The CPU, RAM and HD are all built in on one chip, so it's a new type of architecture than whats been around practically forever. Lord help you if you have any type of data crash; so factor in a monthly fee for a iCloud account. Macs are different from Windows, formatting the HD doesn't make them "faster" like their Windows Counterparts. Of course having a clean iMac will make it actmore efficient, but you'd be better served by maxing out the RAM to 32GB (if you haven't already) than you would by formatting it. Oh, not having 1000+ files and folders on a Mac Desktop will also make them run faster. So you might want to do some housekeeping in the short term. What would I do? Start saving for a new 27" iMac. I'd still get the Intel version in 2021. What options would I choose for a "Computer that's good for photo-editing?" I'm so glad you asked!! Quick & Dirty iMac Configurations Personally, I'd get the Photoshop & Light Video Configuration. This model / configuration has the best chance of lasting you 7-8 years or so. Which is the same time period of where your existing Mac is now. Funny how that works...

@Damien Symonds - Have you seen the current prices of Windows computers lately? $1999 plus the cost of a display for a computer that’s is “good” for photo editing. I never thought I’d see the day that the price difference between a Mac a Windows computer would be minor.

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I'm not desperate, I'm more curious. I'm not used to not knowing. I have others that are better focused. It was these where I was backed away, with the high ISO - lots of grain - lots of noise removal, where now I'm not sure. How can I know?

Rule of thumb when shooting digital that I try to use, is that shutter speed should be twice of the focal length. Back in the film days, your focal length and shutter speed where closer together 50mm was 1/60th, etc. So at 70mm, you want 1/160th or better. 200mm, 1/400th or 1/500th of a second, etc. For those reading this and have high resolution cameras, like a Nikon D850, you almost want 4 times the focal length. The more MP you have, the worse camera shake will bite you. But I’m digressing here. I have found that laying on the shutter and taking three shots consecutively...the second shot will be the one that has the sharpest focus. Especially when you are at 1/60th in low-light conditions, hand-held, such as this photo.

First, some added midtone contrast with a Soft Light layer. Then a slight warm vignette on the snow, and dulling the bright sky. Then the vomit layer on top. Download the file here.