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Thank you so much for your help I decided to go with the 5D mark IV. 😊

Ok, I will drag those out in the light of day and get back to you.

Oh yeah, I love that!!!

I was able to match the left side of the backdrop, however, unsure how to fix the right side by adding the second gradient layer. Please help.

Oh gee. I'm worried too But I don't see what else you can do.

Hi Brian, Please could you advise? Is there a way of moving my images from a apple mac drive to a pc one? My mac is coming to end of life as it's very old. I don't have the money to spend on a new one, so I am wanting to move it to pc for the time being.

It's possible, and I will warn you, it's a bit of a pain in the ass. Apple makes things really easy going from a Windows Computer to a Mac, but not the other way around. If you have decent internet speed, you could try some sort of cloud service, such as Dropbox, One-Drive, Google Drive, etc. That is probably the easiest way. Otherwise, you are using a blank (new) EHD, partitioned and formatted on a PC, then you would use software on your Mac to act as a translator. Unfortunately, it seems the software that I once ran doesn't seem to be around any longer, which complicates things. That said, there is one program that you will need to buy and it's been around forever. It's called Paragon HFS+ and it's $20. This software you install on your Windows Computer and then all you have to do is hook up your external Mac Formatted HD to your Windows PC and the Paragon software should be able to access it. Here is the website: HFS+ for Windows by Paragon Software. Then copy the files from the Mac Drive to a New Windows External Drive, formatted with NTFS and if it's above 4TB, it will use a GPT-based Partition. The easiest way is to obtain a 32GB USB Flash Drive, make sure you format it to a FAT32 Partition on the Windows Computer, and then copy and paste files. Why 32GB? Because FAT32 really was only meant to go up to 32GB. Why format it on a Windows Computer? For whatever reason, I have found Partitioning drives that are meant to be on a Windows Computer should be partitioned and formatted on said Windows computer. Apple's MacOS doesn't always create a FAT32 Partition correctly, and I don't know why. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. Now 32GB these days won't help you when you have multiple Terabytes of data, which leads to the next paragraph. The other way is to turn on file sharing, and this is a complicated process. For Techie-Nerds like myself, it's not too bad. For the majority of people out there, it's a "Science Project." It also really helps things if your Windows computer is the "Professional" version and not the "Home" Edition, (i.e. Windows 10 Pro.) The Pro versions make networking so much easier, it's built for this sort of thing. In any case, you will use COPY & PASTE and NOT CUT AND PASTE. You want to keep your source files intact; this way if anything were to screw up, you can do things over again. When you Cut/Move files, it deletes the source file. Anyway, it's best to make your IP addresses on all computers Static and I'd create a special login account on your Windows computer that is just meant for file transfer and establish a Workgroup. If these terms sound a bit new to you, then File-sharing might be a bit of a challenge, though doable. When it's all said and done, I'd buy a new External Drive and get the Paragon Software.

No. It's Catalina or Bust! Apple stopped "Signing Off" (Authorizing) the older Operating Systems. So even if you found someone who has a ThumbDrive with a High Sierra or whatever, chances are it won't work. But I'm not 100% sure on this one. I do know for a fact that if you upgraded to Catalina, you can not downgrade / change your mind. Unfortunately, as time goes on, it's going to get harder and harder to avoid upgrading. You have a 2011 iMac. Honestly, it's time for a new one. Here is why and what I have found in all these 40+ years that I've been dorking around with this stuff: Year 1: Person buys a new computer. Year 2: They seem happy with their purchase, if anything were to fail with their computer, this is when it will happen. Year 3: New Technology is released, marketing buzzwords usually involve "Next Level" or "Game Changer." Year 4 : Computer starts to become a bit slow, loses it's "Newness" and "Luster." But it still works and suits the person's needs. Year 5: Software development starts to take over the computer in its initial configuration, which results in some sort of upgrades. Such as: More RAM Larger Capacity Hard Drive. Better Graphics Card, possibly upgrading power supply as well to support new video card. Year 6: Upgrades seem to do the trick; life-span of the computer meets with the demand of current software and is extended for the moment. Year 7-8: Software exceeds Hardware. New Operating Systems will no longer work well on older technology, and current software programs demand more resources than what the computer will allow. The search for a new computer begins, resulting in purchasing new equipment. The cycle then repeats. You have a 2011 iMac. It's 2020. That's 9 Years, and I'd say that has been a very good run. Start saving, Edit: I went through the same exact thing. My 2009 iMac worked well with my D700 and D4s. Then I bought a Nikon D850 and that stupid camera has costed me so much money. New Lenses, New Computer which had to be upgraded to 64GB, and new External 12TB Hard Drive. I feel your pain. I have spent thousands on this shit.

Done.

Of course.

No, that's just a flaw of your screen. Those lines aren't in the file.

Ok PHEWWWWWW

I keep my screen dim at level 80. I use two kinds of paper for printing, and I have not been having trouble matching them to my screen. In preparation for a talk, I thought I would review the proofing process and was shocked at the affect the "simulate paper color" button had on some test screen images - basically muting the colors noticeably. I have not yet done a test print to take a really close look to see if the "simulate paper color" button is out of whack or accurate. I took the lazy way out, and asked you.

This is not uncommon. Some people choose 350 for this very reason.

(Make sure you err a bit on the darker side for the subjects with your Levels work - that will help.)

Yeah, that works. Slightly desaturating the yellows of the field, eh? And once you do your Levels work, the subjects will stand out well enough.

I think it would be tricky to get rid of it altogether, but it can certainly be diminished. What do you think of this? Levels layer: R 66/0.90/255 G 49/0.97/255 B 29/1.00/255

Yes, if that suits you. There are two ways you can do it: Crop with nothing in the options bar, then use the Image Size function after that (with "Resample Image" checked) to resize them; or Crop with the "px" values in the options bar.

Yes I did!!!!!

Oh, and if you are wondering what's next? When you get your new camera, LEARN ALL OF YOUR FOCUS MODES!! Don't worry about fancy editing and toys with your camera. Learn the focus modes. All of them. Know which ones to use and when, and know which modes to avoid due to your shooting style. Then start playing with all the menus and such.

Yep, shouldn't be a problem at all.

Hey, great! Do they mean that all the photos need to be exactly square in those dimensions? Or do they mean that portrait photos need to be 400 high, and landscape photos need to be 400 wide? Have you taken a look at their website to check? In fact, may I have a link to their website?

I had to click the whole folder, and it uploaded all.

Yes, if you want to do this, that's fine. You didn't NEED to do it, because your file was already 300ppi, but if this helps you sleep better at night, go for it.

Sorry I wasn't clear. Yes, the focus is not good. You can't use this photo. But see how her sleeve fabric texture is perfectly focused? That's what I mean by "you just missed it". Your focal plane was very very close.

I'd also give this video a watch as well. Of course, this particular video is favoring the Mirrorless Body for taking video, which makes sense since it's newer technology. If you are primarily taking actual photographs, they recommend the Canon 5D Mark IV. Plus, as I've stated above, and they implied this in the video, to get the best performance out of a Mirrorless Body, you need the Mirrorless-based lenses to go with it. Sure you can use an adapter ring, but in reality, you are buying all new lenses to go with a Mirrorless Body. Since you already have great glass, why bother forking out another $6000+? So my vote & recommendation for you is a 5D Mark IV. Enjoy your purchase.

@Falon: Came across this video on YouTube this evening. I'd give it a watch:

Thank you! I'll give that a try the next time I calibrate.

I agree. I had a little play today and was so excited. I made sure the main things were changed such as changing to raw and it’s in srgb colour space.

You do need to calibrate again now that you've changed the brightness, yes.

Thank you. I've calibrated using the troubleshooting guidelines, and the monitor definitely looks warmer already. I will compare the print tomorrow in the morning and report back.

Chances are you are going to have to download a fresh copy, then manually remove the driver, reboot and then install the new video driver. Dell Tech Support should be able to help you with this, or at least point you in the right direction.

If you used the right MODIFIER, and OCF...then yes, it would have turned out better. That's the secret to using OCF...it's the modifier. Walking around with a Lightstand, a 60" softbox, battery pack, sandbags, and dealing with a triggering system can be a real PITA on location. Now this type of thing is done all the time, but usually there are assistants to help you. Which adds to your overhead. Before we start really talking about all the gear, I want you to give this video a watch: Zack Arias - Family Portraits on Location. If that type of setup is something you would be interested in, then we can go from there. If you are more for the "Running and Gunning" style of flash photography, kinda like shooting a wedding, then that's another avenue we can explore. Basically, I want to make sure we are on the right path as there are so many freaking options out there.

Hi Damien. Thanks for those in depth answers. I've found a print shop that uses GMG Colorserver (the same place that printed the 'Kevin - My Memories' book nice and bright (remember, the book that was printed really dark by another printer?). In questioning their process for further print jobs they suggested that their GMG RGB to CMYK conversion would probably do a better job than my own conversion. And reading up on GMG Colorserver, for proofing and printing digital and litho, it seems to be very clever and moving away in some sense from ICC profiles. Like it can 'see' the colour/brightness the original file intends and recreate it very accurately in CMYK. Almost like a home desktop printer can do. What I'll do is make up a series of tests and send on to them for proofing, as you suggest. I get books from people compiled in Word and OpenOffice, essentially in RGB, and the writers have no notion about CMYK (or RGB for that matter), but their monitors are decently graded. They want an eBook and a printed version. So, I'm looking for a simple, but high quality, solution. No, I plan to stick with the GMG people. However, your answers will certainly help me in case I have to deal with a print shop with less forgiving printing software.

😍😍

Hi I need to change the red stripes to blue. The little one originally had matching dress but she threw up so many times that we needed to change her dress. Ive played with a few methods (Color range and mask, and solid color layer set to Color mode and mask) but im struggling with the edges and the red being reflected onto the white fabric and onto her skin , Im hoping you can point me in the right direction - this is meant to be printed on a 24x30 canvas so I need to get it right or a reshoot will be in order. thanks.

This is the best I can manage. Would it be ok?

@Damien Symonds