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  1. 77 points
    Thanks for coming to visit my new site! I know this is a big change from my Ask Damien facebook page, but I hope you'll grow to like it. My aim is to ensure the highest quality answers to your questions, with none of the distracting chit-chat of social media. Feel free to look around and once you've joined up, start asking me questions. Reply below and let me know what you think of the new place!
  2. 34 points
    These are the site-wide rules that you need to agree to in order to join as a member. I have pinned them here in case you wish to revisit them at any time. Please take a moment to review these rules. Please remember that we are not responsible for any messages posted. We do not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any post, and are not responsible for the contents of any post. The messages express the views of the author of the message, not necessarily the views of this website. Any user who feels that a posted message is objectionable is encouraged to contact us immediately by using the "report post" link on the relevant post. We have the ability to remove objectionable messages and we will make every effort to do so, within a reasonable time frame, if we determine that removal is necessary. You agree, through your use of this service, that you will not use this website to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise violative of any law. You agree not to post any promotional material or advertising for commercial purposes or personal financial gain. You agree not to advertise used goods or seek to purchase used goods from other Members. You agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or by this website. You acknowledge that the forum moderators have the right to delete, edit, move or lock any post or thread that breaks any of these terms and rules, and generally manage the structure of the information on the Forums as they see fit. Our software uses cookies to distinguish you from other users of our website. This helps us to provide you with a personalized experience when you browse this site. There are additional guidelines in certain sections of this site that you are required to comply with.
  3. 32 points
    This forum is my raison d'ĂȘtre. The kinds of questions that you can never google for, no matter how many key words you try. I'm a very skilled editor, and I hope I can help you with your troublesome pixels. One question per post, please. If you have more than one question to ask, please ask them in separate posts. No posting for constructive criticism: This is not the place to post a general question like "how does this look?" My team and I will routinely delete these kinds of posts. Only post if you have a specific question. It's vital, in all workflows, that raw processing is completely done before any Photoshop work commences. So if your question pertains to a Photoshop edit, please make sure you have done your raw processing first. Make sure you provide enough information for me to help you: Remember to include your image in your post (Yes, people do forget this!) It may be useful to include the straight-out-of-raw (SOOR) image as well If there is a specific part of the photo you need help with, upload a closeup of that area. Instructions on how to do that are on my site here. Lastly, there will inevitably be questions which I must decline to answer because they coincide directly with my classes. These will generally be questions regarding clean processing. I give away a lot of information, time and expertise for free, but I am also trying to make a living and support my family. Thank you for your understanding. Over time, I will add links here to recent threads that might interest you. I recommend visiting this post at least once a month, to see what's been happening lately.
  4. 25 points
  5. 20 points
    There are several methods. Here's one I'm fond of: Duplicate the Background layer Go to Filter>Other>High Pass. Begin with the Radius at 0, and slowly take it up and find the sweet spot where the freckles are being exaggerated the most (the whole image will be grey at this point). As you play with the slider, you'll see that if you go too low, the freckles won't be getting their maximum punch, but if you go too high, the freckles won't be getting any additional punch, all you'll be doing is exaggerating other things. Find that sweet spot. After pressing OK to perform the High Pass filter, change the layer's blend mode to "Hard Light". Finally, add a mask to the layer and mask it to the freckled part of the face only. By the way, if you want an even stronger result, you can duplicate that High Pass layer. Heck, I suppose you could duplicate it as many times as you want, but it would start to look a bit weird. Oh, also by the way, you can use "Overlay" blend mode for a slightly gentler result than Hard Light gives. Here's my play with the above method:
  6. 19 points
    This was always a two-edged sword. On one hand, yes, lots of people learned stuff "by accident" simply because it appeared in their feed. But on the flip side, a lot of people contributed some real nonsense "answers", and irrelevant guff, also because things appeared in their feed.
  7. 15 points
    Ok, here goes ... (Note: This method only works in Photoshop. If you had Elements, you'd be outta luck.) 1. Add a Channel Mixer layer and check the Monochrome box, and enter 0/100/0: 2. Add a Levels layer and bring the white slider in as far as you can to make the background pure white, but not lose too much hair detail. This is a delicate balancing act. It's a good idea to hold down the Alt key while sliding the slider, so you can have a good view of what's clipping. Then do the same with the black slider, to fill in as much hair detail as you can, but not so far that you fill in unwanted detail too. 3. Invert the mask on that layer, then paint it only around the edges where it's needed - the hair and the veil in this case. No need to be very precise with this painting step. Here's the mask view so you can see a bit more clearly: 4. Add a white Solid Color layer, then a black Solid Color layer. Invert the mask on both layers so they're hidden: 5. On the black layer, start painting to completely and carefully obscure the subject where she needs to be completely preserved. Leave the wisps of hair to be wispy, of course. I started with her head: It's not a bad idea to turn all the other layers off sometimes, while doing this, so you're painting black over the original colour photo. That's what I did while going around that tricky trophy thing she's holding: To save your sanity, for heaven's sake make sure you use this method around the dress and other simple edges. Eventually, the subject will be completely black: I want to say that it's not vital to be accurate. In fact, it's better if you allow a tiny bit of room inside the edge of the subject. See how I've left a thin line of dress visible here? 6. Then paint on the mask of the white Solid Color layer, to make the whole background perfectly white. This should be very quick, because around the hair it's already white, so no precision necessary, and around the dress, you can paint straight underneath the black layer you already did before. 7. Add a new blank layer (this might not be necessary in all versions, but this step can be a bit buggy, so do it anyway.) 8. Ctrl Alt Shift 2 (Mac: Cmd Opt Shift 2) to make a luminosity selection (gives you marching ants all around the white areas): 9. Turn off all the layers except for the Background layer. (You should still have the marching ants active). Go to the Select Menu and choose "Inverse". This will make the marching ants go around the subject, not the background: 10. Double-click the Background layer to turn it into "Layer 0", then immediately Ctrl G to put it into a layer group (remember, you should still have the marching ants while you do this): 11. Click the mask button in the Layers panel to add a mask to the group. The marching ants will disappear, and so will the background: 12. In the layer group, above Layer 0, add a new blank layer and call it "Colour Fix", and change its blend mode to "Color": 13. Temporarily close the layer group by clicking its little arrow. Then add another white Solid Color layer and move it to the very bottom of the layer stack, below the group: 14. Then open the group again, and return to the "Colour Fix" layer you just made. This layer will serve the same purpose as it does for fixing Chromatic Aberration. When you zoom in, you'll see traces of green everywhere: So you sample various nearby colours, and start painting over that green, like this: Even the veil still has a hint of green tinge to it: So you sample some purple colour and paint with low opacity to get rid of it: The bottom is the worst - look at that awful green cast! Sample and paint gently over it: 15. Finally, it should be done. All the edges should be their correct colour. You should be feeling proud of yourself right now The last thing to do is change the bottom white layer to medium grey, and check the edges again to make sure everything's ok: 16. Then you can turn that bottom layer off, to see the photo in its transparent glory. Then finally, go to the Image menu and choose Trim, and trim away the transparent pixels: Leaving you with this: Save that PSD for yourself. That's your master file if you need to come back to it. 17. Finally, click on Layer 0, then go to the Layer menu and choose "Merge Visible". Then delete all the layers which are turned off, leaving you with this: Save that as a different PSD file, that's the one you'll send to your client. Hope this helps.
  8. 13 points
    Hello. Long time lurker. i run the "computer and technology help for photographers" group on the Faceybooks, mainly by accident. i'm an okay photographer that hasn't taken any editing classes yet, much to my own dismay. i like beer, and photography, and video games.
  9. 12 points
    Download the PSD file First I copied the existing end of the jeans and moved them down. Then I used a chunk of the other photo you provided (twice, actually) to fill in the space. Along the way I also used some Hue/Saturation layers to darken stuff. Once I'd done all I could do with what I had, I used some cloning to fill in the remaining gaps.
  10. 12 points
    ACR: Adobe camera raw (the raw processing plug-in that comes with Photoshop and Elements) CA: Chromatic aberration: a type of distortion in which there is a failure of a lens to focus all colors to the same convergence point. "The purple fringe" CC: 1. (Adobe) Creative Cloud or 2. Constructive criticism CMYK: Cyan/Magenta/Yellow/Black (the colours of ink from which all other colours are printed) (K is black because B was already taken for Blue. Also it used to be called the "key" colour.) CR2: Canon raw format CS6(/5/4/3/2/etc): Creative Suite 6. Strictly speaking, this refers to the whole Adobe suite (InDesign, Illustrator, etc). But mostly, in this group, when we say "CS6", we're just talking about Photoshop. DNG: Digital Negative (a generic raw file format) DOF: Depth of field DPP: Digital Photo Professional (Canon's raw processing software) DR: Dynamic Range ETTL: Expose to the left ETTL (flash): Evaluative-Through The Lens (auto) ETTR: Expose to the right HDR: High Dynamic Range JPEG: Joint Photographic Experts Group (named after the organisation who made it - compressed file format; the most common image format in the world) LR: Lightroom NEF: Nikon raw format NR: Noise Reduction / Removal OOC/SOOC: Out Of Camera / Straight out of Camera (as in straight out of camera with no processing) (Only applies to jpegs. Cannot, by its nature, refer to raw files, which always need at least some processing in order to be viewed). OOF: Out of focus PP: Post-processing PS: Photoshop PSD: Photoshop Document (the all-encompassing file format - layers, channels, high-bit, etc) PSE: Photoshop Elements RGB: Red/Green/Blue (the colours of light from which all other colours are made) (The three colour channels which make up all digital images) SOOC: Straight out of camera SOOR: Straight out of raw - a file that has only clean raw edits done, no Photoshop work as yet sRGB: standard RGB colour space, used on monitors, printers and web browsers. SS: shutter speed TIFF: Tagged Image File Format (similar format to PSD, but not specific to Adobe) WB: White balance
  11. 11 points
    Yeah, gosh, that might do it! What do you think of this?
  12. 11 points
    Thanks Damien, I really like where this went. I also didn't like how the dress just laid there all perfect like hard wood floor, so I took a grass brush and added some grass. Still got some learning to do but that is a whole lot closer. I am still shaking my head over that high pass. I am off to learn how to cut an Indian woman out of a green background. Thanks again.
  13. 11 points
    Had a play: Let me know if you'd like to see the PSD file.
  14. 10 points
    This one sure was tricky. How does this look?
  15. 10 points
    FEATURED THREADS Click on any image to go to its thread.
  16. 9 points
    Perfect. So, what you need to do is set up your kettle in front of a black backdrop. As it boils, take various photos of the white steam against the black. Save them all to your "steam library". When editing them, make sure the black is perfectly black - 0/0/0 values. Then, it's easy enough to File>Place one of those files onto your photo, and immediately change its blend mode to "Screen". Then play with its rotation, size and opacity to your desire.
  17. 9 points
    I don't need no stinking 100% Crop. It's a 1950's Kodak Brownie Camera.
  18. 9 points
    I've already posted in here but now that I've checked the forum for the first time since a lot more topics were added, I just want to say how much I love it. It's taken me literally about five minutes to whiz through and see if there's anything new that interests me and read a few topics. In the FB group, I would have spent at least 20 minutes trawling through posts I've seen the equivalent of more times than I can count before giving up and moving on to something else and no doubt missing things I really would have liked to read. Huge thumbs up from me with big change. :-)
  19. 9 points
    Gosh I love this forum. I was just coming back here to type "Can you tell me whether you have Photoshop or Elements?" (old habits die hard) but I don't need to! It's right there in the sidebar! Woohoo!
  20. 9 points
    Hi! I love all the information concentrated in one area! Sad to miss the questions in my FB feed - I learned stuff I didn't know I needed to by reading there. Oh well, I'l check in here often.
  21. 8 points
    First, open the donor image and select a generous chunk around the dog: Then open the base image and paste the dog onto it: Immediately change the layer to a Smart Object, then change its blend mode to "Difference": Ctrl T to get the transform handles. Zoom in as far as needed, and line up the tree branches just above the dog's head as accurately as possible. Then Alt-click on them to set the middle point there, then rotate to line up the grass around the dog's legs also as accurately as possible. In my play, I also found I had to enlarge the dog a tiny bit. Once it's all lined up as accurately as you can, put the blend mode back to Normal, hide the dog completely with a black mask, then paint it in. (I've shown the mask in red view here):
  22. 8 points
    Many thanks for your help!! I really appreciate it!!
  23. 8 points
    Absolutely not. This is a forum in name, but not in nature. It's not intended as a "hangout". It's intended for people to come, learn, then go about their real lives. The www is already awash with "social" places. If the internet was a university, this would be a lecture theatre, not the cafeteria
  24. 8 points
    I think it's great you're moving to a forum format. IMO Facebook is a horrible place for managing communities - but most people are stuck with it, because that's where everyone is these days. Facebook has been hammering the forums for years now and it's really nice to see someone going their own way to improve the community. I wish you all the best and I'll certainly be participating here as well. My name is Paul, I'm a hobby photographer and I've been at it for a bit over 3 years now.
  25. 8 points
    Hi! I must say I love the move off FB! Bring on the more focused learning without the interruption of 'following'!!
  26. 8 points
    Hello! My first forum experience Hoping an old dog can learn a new trick. I am just thrilled i made it in..lol
  27. 8 points
    Well this is just fantastic! I follow your page and take your classes because I trust your knowledge, not to scroll through eighty different ways to do something from others. Thank you so much for all the work you do for us, I'm sure we will all get used to the new forum in no time.
  28. 8 points
    I like the organization of the forum. Good job! I know it was hard work. It is a little overwhelming since I have never been in an online forum. Damien, I know you have indicated you are moving the classes to a forum too in the near future. Please consider waiting a few months so us timid people can learn how everything works.
  29. 8 points
    Hello, love the lessons you give and the work you do. Photoshop is a lot less scary because of you. Hope this continues as a fountain of learning.
  30. 8 points
    Hello from the other side...
  31. 7 points
    HI Damien, I have been working on this for two days! lol I wanted to share what I have so far. I am waiting on more photos to make this complete. Thanks again for all your help!
  32. 7 points
    Well, I duplicated the background layer, and rotated it so the shoe was roughly vertical: I pressed Enter to commit that transformation, then lowered the opacity, and Ctrl T again to put it into place more carefully, including stretching it taller: I turned off that layer for a bit, and made a clone layer to get rid of the old shoe: Turned the new shoe layer back on, and masked it: Then used a Hue/Sat layer to add a tiny bit of darkening at the heel, where shadow was needed:
  33. 7 points
    It's never a waste of time. I view every opportunity to remind people of the importance of in-camera achievements over post-processing achievements as a valuable use of time.
  34. 7 points
  35. 7 points
    I'm so sorry Julie, clean black-and-white processing is all covered in my Levels Class, so I can't share the methods here. I hope you understand. I hope you like this, though:
  36. 7 points
    Great! The first step to a better workflow is knowing how terrible Lightroom is. Usually it takes more effort on my part to convince people of that. So I'm glad you've already done the work for me. Your first step is to download and install Adobe Bridge, if you haven't already. It's among the programs you have with your CC subscription. Then, start by watching this video, and this one.
  37. 7 points
    Hiya, thanks for the continual improvement. I would not be able to provide a reasonable image to my customers if not for you. Keep up the good work :-)
  38. 7 points
    So exciting to see everyone here!! Can't wait to get things going. <3
  39. 6 points
    I really enjoy trying to analyse different types of post-processing, to figure out how it was done. If there's a style you want to emulate, share it so I can help you achieve it. Please observe these guidelines: Post links to other people's images. Don't upload photos that aren't your own - that's bad manners. Provide the link to an image with the desired effect, so that we can visit it. Don't link the file itself; link the page on which you found the photo, so that the photographer gets the credit and the traffic. Upload a photo of yours on which you'd like the style applied. Note that by posting your image, you are effectively giving me permission to download the image, so I can experiment with the edit and respond to your question. Make sure you choose an appropriate photo. The characteristics of the photo play a big role in the application of the style. For example: - If the photo you'd like to emulate was taken outdoors, don't post an indoor photo; - If the photo you'd like to copy has a bright background, don't post a photo with a dark background; - If the photo you'd like to copy has lots of background blur, make sure your photo has lots of background blur too; - and so on. I really can't emphasise this enough. If you are wanting to emulate somebody else's post-processing, but you can't find any photos in your library that emulate their photography, then the post-processing is a moot point, isn't it? Photographic skill is crucial. If your photo isn't suitable, I won't be able to help you with your request. Make sure you have clean-processed your image first. Don't post a straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) photo. Artistic styles are best applied after clean processing has been performed. I would not teach my gymnasts to somersault before they could roll safely; nor will I teach photographers to get artistic before they can competently edit cleanly. You can find more information about clean processing in my article here. Please scroll down this page, because you'll find dozens of styles I've already played with. You might find what you're looking for right here! Lastly, there will inevitably be questions which I must decline to answer because they coincide directly with my classes. These will generally be questions regarding clean processing. I give away a lot of information, time and expertise for free, but I am also trying to make a living and support my family. Thank you for your understanding.
  40. 6 points
    I'd encourage you to read up on what contributes to the depth of your focal plane. There are a ton of free depth of field calculators online that will let you put in numbers and figure out how much of your photo will be within your focal plane (i.e., in focus). Three basic factors: - aperture (the wider your aperture, the shallower your focal plane) - focal length (the longer your focal length, the shallower your focal plane) - distance to subject (the closer you are to your subject, the shallower your focal plane) Here, you were at a fairly wide aperture (f/3.2), at a middle-normal focal length (50mm), and I'm guessing you were super close to your subject. That gave you a focal plane that was too shallow to have both eyes in focus. If after you took this photo you checked it on your LCD screen and zoomed in to check your focus, and noticed that your focal plane was too narrow for what you wanted to achieve, you'd have three options: narrow your aperture, use a wider focal length, or get farther away from your subject. Or recognize that your focal plane, however narrow or deep it is, is a "slice" of the scene in front of you that is perpendicular to your camera. In other words, if you want to use a super shallow DOF *and* get both eyes in focus, angle yourself such that both of your subject's eyes are the same distance from your camera, so they'll both fall within the focal plane.
  41. 6 points
    Excellent. Add a Channel Mixer layer, and enter these values: Red channel: 0, +100, 0 Green channel: 0, +35, +65 Blue channel: +100, 0, 0 Then mask on. Around the bulk of the handle, you shouldn't need to be precise - the CM layer shouldn't affect the wall colour. But around the fingers, you'll need to be VERY precise, of course. IMPORTANT: After masking around the fingers very carefully, then lower the brush opacity a lot, eg 5%, and paint gently onto the skin to replace the pink cast with blue cast. This step is really important. Here, I've done the top half to show you:
  42. 6 points
    This is the best I can manage. Would it be ok?
  43. 6 points
    The solution is so simple you'll fall off your chair. Just add a Channel Mixer adjustment layer and swap the Red and Blue channels ... Red 0, 0, +100 Blue +100, 0, 0 Then mask on to the ribbons. You won't even have to mask particularly precisely in most areas. Then, clip a Hue/Saturation layer to the Channel Mixer layer and manipulate Blues a little more if needed (eg darkening or whatever)
  44. 6 points
    Hi Jenny, as Anna-Lena said, it would be handy to see your SOOR, if you don't mind. However, in general terms I can tell you that even though we think of jaundice as "yellow", in technical terms it's actually rather closer to green in colour. Therefore, you'll find great success using a magenta Photo Filter to combat it. Here is my quick play with the aforementioned magenta filter, and also a bit of dodging on a dodge and burn layer:
  45. 6 points
  46. 6 points
    I was scrolling through the AD Facebook group trying to find my first post (late 2012, as it turns out) and I came across the image I posted where you goaded me into taking the RAW class. I was SO mad at you! And now I look back, with RAW and levels and print sharpening under my belt, not to mention three years of reading other people's adventures and misadventures, and - wow. That was a really terrible edit I posted. Suffice to say, I've since forgiven you. Good luck with the new forum. I hate change, but I suppose I'll get used to it.
  47. 6 points
    Hi Everyone! I'm Kim Howells, one of the Forum Team here. I am excited with the new changes, this is going to be an amazing place to learn. Thanks for having me on your Team, Damien and Lara. I am a photographer and photography teacher in New Zealand.
  48. 6 points
    Morning everyone I'm not usually very fond of Forums but I think I'm going to like this one. It's started well already as I can use my name as my user name! 1st time ever so result as I'm useless at thinking of cool user names. Loving the new super organised Ask Damien.
  49. 6 points
    Following... Oh wait...
  50. 6 points
    so glad you did this....
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