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fwendly

Moire Help

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I am running into an issue with Moire. I would love if you could help recommend a fix. 

Thanks!

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adp010115.2.jpg

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Yep, that should be easy enough to fix.  Go ahead and do your raw processing as normal, then post the photo again and we'll fix the moire.

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Guess I am a bit rusty, I made minor tweaks 😖

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OK, would love some input. I recently changed from Adobe CS6 to CC. Was using the 2010 sliders per your raw class before. In CC I believe that translates to Version 2 correct? 

I am working a new monitor. It has been calibrated with Palette Master and SpyderX. Grey card used in studio. Losing my mind and would be grateful for some direction. Thanks!

 

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10 minutes ago, fwendly said:

I am working a new monitor. It has been calibrated with Palette Master and SpyderX.

And?  A perfect match to your pro lab prints?

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Seems like my calibration didn't stick. Not sure what happened. Just reset and tweaked again. I deleted Palette Master and worked just with my Spyder X

My prints from my lab are close, but appear a bit washed out in some areas and the blacks a bit crushed in others (on some images). I am not sure where to go from here. 

adp010118.jpg

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I just want to drown my sorrows at this point. I have taken your RAW class and was using my flow chart :(

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Badly :(

Look, whatever.  You keep going with your dodgy raw processing using out-of-date sliders, and use this Channel Mixer layer for the moire:

  • Red 0, +105, +15, +10
  • Green 0, +90, +10, 0
  • Blue 0, +90, +10, 0

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I didn't mean any disrespect

I am just upset with myself for apparently getting so poor with my workmanship :( 

Edited by fwendly

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Well, I'd been really hoping we could blame it on poor calibration.

But since you said your screen is acceptably close to your prints ..

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Ever since switching my monitor  and switching to a different lab I have had nothing but issues. I am at such a loss. 

Thanks for the help. I guess I need more education. 

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I don't yet have instructions written for the SpyderX range, I'm afraid.  Were you following my directions for the Spyder5?

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Yes I was. Per my lab I set my computer to 6500K and 100 lum. I had to turn my brightness way down to match my prints. I know you said that there was little to do to adjust color with this calibrator. The lab recommended I adjust my Kelvin manually to match the color. I had to adjust my Kelvin down to 5200K to match the yellow tint in the images.

Could that be my issue? (By your comments I fear I way more than marginally off 😫 Is it color, brightness, all of it?)

I have 5 sessions to edit and am not sure how to proceed. 

With regards to resigning up for the class: you mentioned antiquated sliders in your last post, does the new class have info for new versions? 

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Just now, fwendly said:

does the new class have info for new versions? 

It had the info for the new sliders three years ago when you were still in the class!!!  I'm sad that you didn't take advantage of it at the time.

2 minutes ago, fwendly said:

I had to adjust my Kelvin down to 5200K to match the yellow tint in the images.

Are you sure the light in your room is ok?  https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

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3 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

It had the info for the new sliders three years ago when you were still in the class!!!  I'm sad that you didn't take advantage of it at the time.

I am not sure how I missed this? I know it has been a while, but I recall all the materials referencing using the 2010 sliders.  I must be losing my mind. If I didn't have so much work to do, I'd say it was Beer:30

 

8 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

Are you sure the light in your room is ok?  https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

I just double checked. My lights are 800 lumens each. The bulbs are 5000K instead of the recommended 4-4200. I have overhead lighting with 3 bulbs. I typically use 2 of the 3 bulbs (removed the one that shines toward the comp monitor). I did notice that my husband screwed in the third. I unscrewed it to see the affect. My prints seem to be a bit darker than my monitor (whose brightness is down to 15)

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OK I will try that now. I was using the normal flow chart. Would this purple fall into vivid colors? 

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I tried to use my old Spyder 4Elite.  When calibrating using your Spyder4Pro, current numbers achieved when set to 5000K and 6500K respectively were 5663 and 7612. I know you said you should achieve between 6-7000 or your monitor may need updating. I am using a new BenQ320 monitor. Are those numbers ok? If so do I proceed with calibrating at the 5000K present since it was closest?

Also my brightness is already down to 15 and I still feel my prints are darker than my screen. Can I possibly have to go lower? Am I already too dark on your end?

Thanks!

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4 hours ago, fwendly said:

Also my brightness is already down to 15 and I still feel my prints are darker than my screen. Can I possibly have to go lower?

Definitely go lower.  As low as it takes to get a print match.  Some people literally have to have their screen's brightness setting on 0 (although that is rare of course).

4 hours ago, fwendly said:

current numbers achieved when set to 5000K and 6500K respectively were 5663 and 7612.

Bummer.  Yeah, try the 5663 one.

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Ok I will go lower on my brightness. Thanks

Also I have the ability to custom set Kelvin numbers. Given how far off I am, is there any benefit in picking a number in between instead of the preset? I would assume I shouldn't introduce this variable?

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I lowered my brightness to 10. Lum target set to 80. When I attempt to calibrate my current value is 40, way shy of the 70 minimum. 😭

 

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OK thanks. I dad to up my brightness to 25 to get my lum in target range (78). AI put in all three overhead lights. I think my room is bright enough for my 10x10 space. I feel the color is acceptably close. Computer still seems brighter than my print. Any tips on how to proceed from here. Thanks so much!

Edited by fwendly

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