babyruth828

And yes, in just about every class & workshop I took, the photographers all said “you have to get a Mac!” And now I just bought another one because it is what I’m used to at this point. 

Yes, I meant I will try recalibrating again this time with the 5800K option. But I was wondering if from the first time I calibrated and selected do not adjust, how do I know what white point it ended up at? If it is at 6500K now, going from that to 5800 seems like quite a jump. 

The initial instructions, yes, calibrated in the dark, the lights in my room are white, or at least not warm. I guess I’m asking if there’s any other option besides the white point options it gives, and also, with the initial calibration, how do I know what white point it ends up being after calibrating, since I enter “do not adjust”?  I think going from do not adjust to 5800K would be too much? I will try it and see if it works but both times I’ve done a full calibration in the last 2 weeks, my screen ends up very cool toned, which I personally prefer, but I need my prints to match. 

Is there a way to adjust the white point after it has calibrated? I’ve calibrated twice now and my prints are still showing up a tad warmer than what I’m seeing. But I’m not seeing anywhere else in the calibration to adjust the white point except for the option that you say to select “do not adjust” 

Thank you! That explains so much! I suppose I didn’t notice how warm it was on my old 2013 2; inch imac, but with this new 2020 27inch imac, the d50 is a bit overwhelming & I felt like I was way overcompensating making the pictures cooler and then the last couple looked terrible online. 

Not sure if this should be posted in the print forum or not… 

I bought a new iMac recently & thanks to Damien I got my color space problems solved. I then calibrated with the SpyderX Pro and set the white point to 5,000 as Millers Lab video said & set my luminance about 120ish. I feel like I’m editing on a dark orange computer now. Nonetheless, I re-edited & submitted new prints & even though the prints aren’t dark like they were previously (still trying to adjust to dim screen) they are now cooler than what I’m seeing. Should I try adjusting AGAIN and spend more money on test prints or try a different company? I literally can’t stand editing right now because of how warm my screen is. 

THANK YOU for quite possibly the one straight forward article that exists on that topic. 

(I knew I missed something!) 

Yes, I was also reading that before I posted, and I know I need to ditch LR. It’s just out of habit, because when I started photography I solely edited in LR. 
On my old iMac, my prints matched what I was editing, which I believe now was Adobe Rgb 1998 (and after monitor calibration) 

So I should only be editing in sRGB? I’ve read conflicting information about sRGB and Adobe Rgb. I never looked into it with my old iMac since things flowed fairly well. 

I’ve ready through many of your articles but perhaps I’m missing something. 
 

I recently upgraded my 2013 iMac to a 2020 iMac. I assumed my LR & PS settings from the old transferred to the new. Then I edited a few images and ordered prints. They looked terrible— darker and overall blah. I know I need to calibrate my new iMac. However, I noticed a couple of differences after comparing all the settings. My normal process is to import my pictures to LR, maybe make a quick adjustment or two, I then move it to PS & do all my main editing, when that is done I “save as” and the image with the PS edits appears back in LR. I then make a couple small adjustments and then export from LR as a jpeg in sRGB. 

When comparing my settings from the old & new macs, I realized my new iMac had “embedded color profile” on the Save As dialog box as ProPhoto Rgb, whereas my old iMac had Adobe rgb 1998 selected. Could this have caused the images to save differently and therefore print as they did?

I’ve messed with the settings on both computers now that I don’t know what color profile PS was using on my old computer nor what my new iMac was using.