tessag
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Posts posted by tessag
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Oh and there is also Gain and Offset, both of which just have RGB. These ones above haven't done anything to the arrows
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1 minute ago, Damien Symonds said:
Yeah, unfortunately there isn't a way to pull it up again, apart from calibrating all over. Never mind.
Since we don't have much control over "magenta" we'll have to assume it's coolness.
And since you seem to have reached the limit of the screen's presets, we'd better try this method instead: http://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_i1DP_pc2.html
Ok - doing it now. Haven't done this one yet
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5 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
When you calibrated on the 5000 setting, what was the achieved white balance?
On this result screen, I mean? https://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/42i1dppc23.gif
Ugh I didn't save it and can't figure out how to view it again
4 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:And just to be very safe, all the files are sRGB?
(I'm obliged to ask this.)
Yes - definitely
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2 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
So the outdoor ones are better than the indoor ones?
Correct - except for the lady in the chair.
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Just now, Damien Symonds said:
Terrific. And are there some that seem to match better than others? Or some that are particularly worse than others?
Yes - some are better than others for sure! The whites are the worst - which is concerning because I shoot a lot of newborns and babies on white!
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3 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
Sorry, yes, you did the right thing. Always use the top number.
5500 was too cold, I assume? How did 5000 turn out?
Both of them were really magenta, a tad cold. Or maybe just cold, F at this point I don't even know. The 5000 pulled a bit of the magenta out but not much. I don't know if this photo does it any sort of justice?
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I should also mention that the uniformity portion to get these numbers was a little different for me than what was shown on the tutorial, it would flash white, med grey, dark grey and then give me 3 numbers (where yours only had 1). I used the top number with the highest luminance. The 3 numbers were not wildly different though, within a couple hundred of each other at most.
Yes - I started with 5500, then tried 5000
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1 minute ago, Damien Symonds said:
Do you have a piece of paper like mine?
https://www.damiensymonds.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/15i1dppc09.jpg
Yes - sorry. I just got back to my desk from a dinner. this is what I've got
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21 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
BUT ... if you tell me that you're confident that your lighting is as good (close to daylight) as it can be, that's great! I'm happy to move the conversation onto the actual calibration.
It is as close as it is going to get
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Can i please have access to part 2 of the raw class? This is something I genuinely am seeking help with, I’m not sure why I signed up for mentoring if you aren’t willing to help further?
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6 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
I've reached the limit of the help I can give you about this. This is up to you. Your room light has to be nice and bright. Period.
Cool. Thanks for it
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There is not much artificial light in that room- there’s one ceiling light far away from the windows.
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9 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
Can you?
? not today, no. And there’s really not much light in that room and it’s well away from the door/windows
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5 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
So if you turn the overhead light off and on while looking at the prints, you're saying their appearance doesn't change?
Didn’t do that
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5 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:
Is this still your laptop we're talking about?
Yes. And I’m working on my external too but had to step out.. 2 runs with it so far and both too magenta
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Going with Black river (for now anyway). their prints were sharper and looked better to me and they offer what I need.
I went and bought 8 of those 5000K flourescent bulbs, cussed for an hour getting them in until I watched a youtube video showing the "trick" to get them in.
Still not sure the light temperature it is right?? But see below and tell me what you think
Now I'm sitting in my studio, lights off of course, close to my door with a full panel window, and it's a beautiful, slightly overcast day. So I would consider where I am sitting "daylight".
I'm just going to list out what I'm seeing with different calibration settings
In my studio/true daylight
Native/100 - Screen is too cool compared to prints. Brightness looks good comparatively
D65/90 - Screen is still too cool, but better than above.
D55/100 - screen is a smidge more magenta/cooler than the prints
D50/90 - best of the 4, screen a smidge too magenta and probably needs to be 100 vs 90 (also did Daylight 5000/100 - almost identical to this)
In my office, no windows, 8, 40 watt fluorescent bulbs, 5000K
Native/100 - too cool.
D65/90 - too cool
D55/100 - same
D50/90 - same
So - after doing this in both rooms - it seems that the lighting in my office is very close to daylight (as long as where I was sitting was considered daylight??) My studio has all white walls, shouldn't have been any cast coming off the light.
HELP. please.
I NEED to get this mf-er calibrated so I can carry on lol. Is there some magic setting that I'm missing? I've made sure that automatic brightness is unchecked in system preferences, that the contrast is normal in accessibility (both per xrite's troubleshooting for mac). I've gone to every reasonable effort to make sure that my light is good. Am I being too picky?
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hahahaha - i freaking knew you were going to say that lol.
ok so top is black river imaging, right is bay photo. How in the hell do you choose??? Do you find a certain lab that people consistently are happy with? I do a good bit of fine art/cotton rag prints, too
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ok.
So - does the 7150 white point that I got with native/100 luminance mean anything? Isn't the white point normally closer to 6500?
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Tessa
in Monitor calibration questions or problems
Posted
I did calibrate again and I can live with this result. I have to go to bed shortly but I'm going to pop a few things into the wb check side really quick