Low Key

[Dava]

I am trying to take a low-key photo of my son but have the lights from the mouse (they are glowing through his fingers before I shoot it), controllers and video game come through. I can't see those glowing lights at all no matter what I try. Is there a way to do this? The room is dark except for the glowing lights and the monitor set at the darkest setting with the flash behind/beside it. I am using a Canon Rebel Xsi, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8, and a Canon 430EXII flash with diffuser.

Edited June 22, 2016 by Dava

[Brian]

Finally! A photography question!!!

Your flash is over-powering the LEDs. You'll more than likely need to set your camera on a tripod, take a photo of the setup without flash (and your son,) possibly a long exposure, then take a photo as you normally would and combine the two in PS. A simple mask on a separate layer should help.

In addition, I'd move your flash further away from your son. You are blowing out areas on his face (hot-spots) and the angle of the flash needs to be tweaked.  You seem to be in between Rembrandt Lighting and Broad Lighting. I recommend that you pick one, or not use either. LOL!!

I'd take a look at the 6 Standard Lighting Patterns that everyone should know and master loop-lighting as it is the most flattering for the majority of different face-types. It works well with thin or wide / broad faces. You'll know loop lighting when you see a "loop shadow" coming out of the subject's noses. In the article I linked to, the wedding couple example, look closely and you will see the "Loop" coming out of the B&G's left nostril on the side of their noses.

The phrase, "Never Broad-Light a Broad" comes to mind. With Broad-Lighting, if a person has a wider face, you will ADD pounds to it. If you just change the position of your flash and use a short-light method (or turn your subject's face in the opposite direction) you will thin out a wide face. Rembrandt lighting, I don't think it will work for this photo. I don't like how your son's right eye is mostly in shadow.

Oh, those "Glowing TV" shots with people eating pop-corn? You know the shot of a person watching a scary movie with their eyes wide open and mouths stuffed with pop-corn, a classic cliche shot. Well here is a secret: The TV is Powered OFF!! That's right, there isn't light coming from the TV. It's from a flash placed inside the TV (usually with the Tube removed and the flash sitting inside it) with a Blue Gel (or similar color) mounted on the flash. That's how you get those shots. It's multiple flashes, and the only light is coming from flashes. Surprise!!
 

[Brian]

Now before someone asks the question, but what about a shot like this? Clearly, the person is looking at a computer screen!

Well, again, that's two different shots combined. The light on the subject's face is a different color temperature than what is on his hands. So you take a photo without flash with a slow shutter speed, model doesn't move his hands (aperture should remain the same, to keep DoF the same) and then you remove the monitor (or move it to the side) and photograph the subject's face. (Probably used a LARGE Softbox for that example and with a strobe, like a Profoto.)

Dava, I'd try re-creating this photo that I linked to in this post, it will be easier to compose and learn the techniques used for composite photos. Plus the LEDs that you will ultimately see in the photo won't look out of place. So give it a try and post your results. I'd like to see. Start with photographing your sun sitting in front of his screen, without the screen. Get his exposure dead-on and use a tripod!! If you move just a little, it's a real-pain combining photos in PS.

[Dava]

Thank you so much! The article is extremely helpful! And now that you say it, that shadow on his eye doesn't look good at all and is not what I was going for!   I can't put the flash any further from him as it was already against the wall in his small room. I have it set at the lowest power. Should I diffuse it more? I will also play with the angles a bit. 

[Dava]

Just saw your second post.  I will definitely try to re-create tonight! Thank you again!

[Brian]

That's the cool thing about photography, specifically flash based photography. If you don't fit in the room, then use a different room! Use the "Inverse Square Law" to your advantage. If your room is dark, and all I see is black in the photo, who cares if it was shot in the dining room instead of his bedroom? What matters is the end result.

Now, as far as modifiers go, the larger the modifier, the softer the shadows. So if you have a tiny little modifier on your flash and it's only 2 feet away from your subject, you are going to have blow-outs and contrasty / hard light. Now comes the slippery slope with modifiers. They can get expensive, and you will never have enough. Think of them like Drummer's Cymbals. LOL!! Just one more honey!!!

For example, I have this modifer. You will need a kit like this to utilize it, unless you have something similar or an existing light stand. While I like the output from it, it's a pain to adjust as the flash sits INSIDE the thing. I'm tempted to purchase this as the flash sits outside on the mount. Combine that with the Deflector Plate and you could have a nice modifier. Or go for broke and get the $400 kit which has everything, except for the 2nd flash.

That being said, I created this photo using my Nikon SB-600 and Westcott Micro Apollo on a stand, camera right. The flash was a good 6 feet away from the cable. You'll have to really learn (I'm still learning) about the Inverse Square Law and how it applies to photography.

[Brian]

Here is a video with the Westcott Rapid Box kit in action. I just hate that it's $400 friggin' dollars.

[Dava]

Very helpful yet again! The hard part will be getting him to come out of his bedroom! LOL  As of now, I have two light stands with flash triggered lights, two white umbrellas, two black/silver umbrellas and my flash. I cheated and used eight layers of tissue to diffuse the flash. Any suggestions with what I have?  I am in the process of saving for more gear and the Rapid Box is actually next on my list after a full frame camera.  Oh, I can't see the video in the link you sent. 

 

[Brian]

Well, instead of him, use something like a Coffee Can or Stuffed animal. I've actually thought about buying a used Mannequin off of Craigslist for $50-ish. They don't move, complain or get tired.

Fixed the Video Link. Here it is:

 

[Brian]

12 minutes ago, Dava said:

Any suggestions with what I have?

You are going to have to go fiddle somewhere else to learn. A small bedroom will drive you insane. You need space. A garage, dining room, back alley...someplace else.

Oh, it sounds like you have the gear that you need. If you did that Westcott RapidBox, just get the 26" Octa and that $20 Deflector Dish.

[Dava]

I agree! Thank you!

[Brian]

Oh, I'm a huge fan of Zack Arias and his style of teaching. He has a few videos on creativeLIVE as well as his "One Light" Educational Video.

In fact, on Day 3...is the setup for the "Person in front of the TV Shot" that you are trying to do. LOL!! In this cL video, he goes over all sorts of modifiers and stuff. I HIGHLY recommend buying this:

Studio Lighting with Zack Arias

[Brian]

Found this bundle for $159:

https://www.creativelive.com/bundle/lighting-essentials-bundle

 

[Dava]

Thank you. I was just looking for some classes. Scott Robert Lim is awesome! I took one of his workshops at Shutterfest this past March and that is what started my journey into off camera flash photography! 

[Brian]

That $159 isn't a bad deal. If I wasn't going on a big trip at the end of July, I would buy that 3-pack.