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About Brian

  • Birthday 01/30/1973

Member Information

  • Main editing computer
    Mac desktop
  • Editing software
    Lightroom with Photoshop
  • Monitor Calibrator
  • Cameras, lenses and other photographic equipment
    Nikon D4s, Nikon D850, Nikon Trinity, plus a bunch of other expensive crap that I don't need which doesn't make me a better photographer. LOL!! Follow me on Instagram! @jennie.brian.seetheworld

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  1. You have two problems: It’s a 2013 Mac Laptop - so it’s limited in what it can do. That’s 8 years ago, it’s had a good run. It’s a 2013 Mac Laptop - so an Apple Display will be the only one that “looks like an Apple Display.” Sure, you can get a 27” standard display and it will look “fine” for the most part, but won’t be Retina Display quality. It’s all about realistic expectations. You could get a 27” iMac and use the 2013 laptop for your portable stuff. Otherwise you are looking at a new MacBook Pro. I guess the only way to find out for yourself, is to purchase that Dell Monitor I recommended and give it a go. Then you will know. If it doesn’t work out, return the Dell. So make sure the store you purchase it from has a good return policy. (Unless you can bring your laptop into a store and try out some displays.)
  2. Brian

    Ben Q monitor

    @Damien Symonds - Have you seen the current prices of Windows computers lately? $1999 plus the cost of a display for a computer that’s is “good” for photo editing. I never thought I’d see the day that the price difference between a Mac a Windows computer would be minor.
  3. It’s set to Denoise instead of ACR. Try resetting it to default and then see what happens. It won’t break or damage anything, the worst that will happen is the computer will prompt you to choose the correct program to associate those files with.
  4. Brian

    Ben Q monitor

    No. You can use them on any display. The ones that come with displays and are the same brand are only really meant to calibrate that display only. So you can't just remove it when you buy another monitor and use it. The ones that I recommended, that's the ones that you can move them from monitor to monitor. Calibration software does get upgraded from time-to-time, but the actual hardware device, they manufactures aren't THAT nice. That's like asking Toyota to give you a new car because yours wore out. The big question is if you are going to stay with a Mac or head over to a Windows computer and if it will be a laptop or not. If you are staying with a laptop and external display, especially a Windows-based computer, then look at the SpyderX Elite or X-Rite i1Display Pro, as both of those are the top of the line in their class, and are meant to calibrate two or more displays. For the Mac, either is fine...as there isn't much you can change other than brightness when it comes to a Mac. Damien prefers the i1Display Studio over the SypderX Pro, but only by a small margin. I will say that X-Rite orphaned the ColorMunki when Apple decided to make its Operating Systems 64-bit only, and the ColorMunki's software was 32-bit based. Spyder on the other hand, did offer a patch to make their software work with a new OS. So that get's points in my book. Honestly between which one when it comes to a Mac? Either. That's just it...24" displays are the "Norm" these days, and 27" isn't as "BIG" as you might imagine. Remember, that's 27" on the diagonal. My 27" iMac is only 25.5 Inches from side to side. So if you have a standard 60" desk, a 27" iMac is no big deal. Heck, you could go to a 48" smaller desk and a 27" iMac will still work. In fact, here is my desk currently: Pleased heed my warning about 21.5" iMacs. YOU. ARE. THROWING. MONEY. AWAY...IF YOU GO THAT ROUTE. They are basically sealed units; even if you purchase a $1499 21.5" iMac and upgraded things, it will run slower than the 27" counterpart as the built-in components are less powerful. Plus, you will only be about a $100 or so less than a 27" model after you purchase the SEVERELY OVER-PRICED APPLE UPGRADES. I hear it now... "...But the size!! I don't have the Space!!!" Don't let the whole size thing scare you. I realize that most people are only used to 17" or so displays or even 14" CRT tube displays. Do not let that old thinking come into play. Now, I can see if you were thinking about a 40" + display, that's a different story, but a 27" display is actually common-place in 2021. You are the odd one out if you do have a 19" or smaller display. Once you get used to it, you will not ever want to go back. I will say this, Apple does have scaling down to an Art-Form. You do not realize you are on a 5K (soon to be 6K) display. It just works and looks really good. Yes, you still need to get calibrated even if you are on a Mac product.
  5. No. I don't think it's a "Hard Drive" problem per se, as I think the problem lies in the physical connection between the Hard Drive and computer. You see, that case the LaCie HD resides in, there is a small computer controller board that also contains the USB port and sometimes, the power port. IF that board is flaky or the firmware (software that makes a computer device physically work) has a bug in it, that could explain your issues. Basically, I highly recommend getting off the data from that LaCie Drive and then just stop using it. "But I spent all that money..." Yep. I get it. But these are your images you are talking about. Taking the loss on the HD and moving on is way less expensive than sending that drive out to have emergency data recovery, which could cost thousands. Not worth risking your data/images on a flaky drive. I also own ONE LaCie Drive, but stopped recommending them once multiple members started having problems. Still love my G-Drives though! Best money that I have spent in a long time, even though they are pricey. I like my HDs to be Enterprise Grade and really beefy / fast. Beats me. Let's get a HD that is stable first, then we will worry about Bridge. Keep in mind with today's modern cameras, Raw files are HUGE. So it doesn't surprise me you have to purge the cache every-once-in-a-while to keep things running smoothly. As far as why Denoise is showing up, that has to do with your Operating System getting confused with the file association type. The "Open with..." thing. But like I said, first things first. Get your HD situation straightened out first.
  6. Brian

    Ben Q monitor

    BenQ Displays aren't my favorite. Even for non-photographic purposes. Traditionally they have been a pain to calibrate, that said...our members have reported otherwise. Whatever you do, make sure you have physical prints to check your calibrated display against. Don't think for a hot-minute that you can run a calibration routine and you are "good." You NEED to compare your prints to your screen, no matter what marketing BS you are being fed, or what some YouTube Video says otherwse. ALL computer technology has a life-span. Whether it's the gradual over-all improvement, or simply the manufactures want to stay in business. Why bother making an automobile last for 28 years? Why not build it to last about 7 years or so? This way it gets the customers back into the market sooner rather than later!! Stockholders rejoice!! Computer devices and washing machines, heating systems, refrigerators, vacuum cleaners, light-bulbs, clothing, basically everything that you purchase will wear out. Photography has never been a "Poor Man's Hobby." NEVER. Sure, the costs have come down, and you can thank technology for that, but nothing lasts forever. I'm not a big fan of having a Calibration Device be "Married" to a Display. What happens if you accidentally drop the calibration tool or your glass of water spills all over it and it breaks? Then what? I will say, a calibration tool should last you a good 5+ years, provided that the Display Technology doesn't change dramatically. If you do end up with a quality display, 5 years or so is pretty typical, if not longer. Just think, you are probably into a new computer between 5-7 years, depending on what you buy. A good monitor is no different. Going forward, choosing the right calibration tool depends on how many screens you are using at once. If you are in a dual monitor setup, the more expensive current SpyderX Elite is what you are after or a X-Rite i1Display Pro. If you are just going to use a single display, than you can go for a less expensive option with a SpyderX Pro or X-Rite i1Display Studio.
  7. You are throwing money away if you go the MacBook route. A "Good Mac Laptop for Photo Editing" is about $3800 USD! Plus, Apple makes current MacBooks sealed units and you must purchase the Apple over-priced upgrades at the time of purchase! Not to mention the batteries will wear out, and you'll get about 36-48 months out of the damn thing. (Yes, even if you leave your laptop plugged in all the time.) Bonus! You will spend more money than on a upgraded 27" iMac AND have less performance in the end. Not to mention if you really want to take advantage of Apple's full graphics, you need an Apple Display, so that adds to the cost. Sure, you can get a 27" 4K display, and graphics would probably look fine, but text and such, notsomuch. But you can edit by the pool!! In the car on your way to the beach!! In all sorts of places!!! Color accuracy be damned!! Edit: Apple currently has a "Pro Display" and it's really meant for "Pros." They no longer offer the "Consumer" model as they once did. I think they were planning on releasing one, but then COVID-19 hit, and I haven't heard much. Anyway, the Pro Display that Apple offers is $5000...and that is just for the display panel. If you want a stand to place it on a desk, that's $1000 extra. $6000 for a stinkin' Apple Display. So $6000 USD for an "Apple Display" on top of your $3800 USD MacBook Pro. So $9800 vs $3200-ish. All for "Portability." Plus, this is US Dollars, you are in NZ, so you have to add to the cost. $10,000+ NZD is like buying a used car. You are better off buying a Windows Laptop, 27" screen and converting all your files over.
  8. Yeah, people are so used to integrated video, they don't think twice about hooking up to the old VGA port. You aren't the first to do this. I just forget about it. Please tell me you are using either a HDMI Cable or DisplayPort Cable with the video card? You do not want to use the 15-pin VGA cable. That's analog. You want a High Def / Digital Signal. That Blue VGA Port has been around since 1989, and it's meant for the old-style tube displays, not today's fancy flat-screens.
  9. So you are in the UK. Hmmm...the same rules apply, but I don't have the slightest clue where to link you to. A friend of mine just bought this computer, and the video card is what you want for Photoshop performance. https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali479/p/N82E16883360074 This is the type of PC you are looking for spec-wise.
  10. Yes, but I will warn you...I have expensive tastes. One thing I do not cheap-out on is my external hard drives, since that's where my data resides. I own two G-Drives, a 12TB and a 4TB. The 12TB is where my images are stored, and the 4TB is a dedicated Time Machine Backup Drive, with nothing on it except Time Machine Backups. The cool part is, G-Drives come Mac-Formatted and include all necessary cables. Here is a 6TB Thunderbolt G-Drive. For a bit more, you can get a 10TB Version. I find this to be a better deal as the cost per Gigabyte is less. If you think about it, $350 for 6TB vs $490 for a 10TB. That's only $140 difference for 4TB more. Basically, it's like you are buying two drives. What I would do, is get a G-Drive, and use your Passport as a dedicated Time Machine Drive. Oh, you'd use the Thunderbolt 3 port in your Mac for the G-Drive. Thunderbolt 3.0 is extremely fast and it's almost like working off your internal hard drive.
  11. Replace. Don't bother upgrading. We could replace Hard Drives and upgrade the video card, which would more than likely require upgrading the power supply, not to mention that video cards that are "Good for Photo-Editing" are running around $1500 or so by themselves, due to the global shortage, etc. etc. When we get into it, it's time for a new one because by the time you spend upgrading all sorts of things, you are almost getting into a new computer. Unfortunately, now is the worst time to be in the market for a computer. Between import Tariffs, COVID-19 and the lack of supply for thing like Semiconductors and the individual parts that make up the actual computer parts, drives up the prices. You could keep your Dell U2413 display, which will save you some money. Give this article a read: What is a Good Computer for Photo Editing (short version) What is your budget?
  12. Yeah, that should work, but I’m not sure how much less vibration you are going to get. Damn cheap & thin plastics. They do make a difference.
  13. Wow. Yeah, that's loud. Synology is correct, the HDs are causing the issue. Specifically the spinning platters at a high rate of RPM. What WD Red Drives did you get? How fast is the RPM? The other thing that is causing the issue, is cheap plastic from the Synology. There is nothing to cut down on the vibration of a spinning HD. Man, are they making them incredibly cheap these days, but that's with everything unfortunately. If you are looking for more quiet drive, I'd try a WD Black 7200RPM Drive and see what happens. You might have to return the Synology. Sorry for recommending it, on paper it looks good and I have another Synology Unit, and it's quiet. It's also about 10 years old and they used better plastics back then.
  14. Plus budget for a new calibration device, and that puts it around $5000 NZD. There is your target budget.
  15. I agree. Back up any important data, browsing favorites, e-mails, whatever. Give the HD a format and re-install. If it works, great. If it doesn't and you still can't have it on your lap, "Do Not Pass Go...Do Not Collect $200." I'm serious about Lithium-Ion batteries and them catching on fire. Any doubts, don't push your luck. Have them replaced or buy a new laptop.
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