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About Brian

  • Birthday 01/30/1973

Member Information

  • Main editing computer
    Mac desktop
  • Editing software
    Lightroom with Photoshop
  • Monitor Calibrator
  • Cameras, lenses and other photographic equipment
    Nikon D4s, Nikon D850, Nikon Trinity, plus a bunch of other crap that I don't need. Follow me on Instagram! @jennie.brian.seetheworld

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  1. Yeah, you want your pagefile.sys and PS Scratch Disk on the D Drive. Your main drive capacity is microscopic by today's standards.
  2. What size is your C Drive? How much is free? Same thing for your D Drive. How large and how much is free? Also what version of Windows are we talking about? I'm going to assume you are on Windows 10. If you have a large D Drive, and a small C Drive, then it might be in your best interest to not only move the Photoshop Scratch Disk, but also the Windows Swap File, aka Pagefile.sys. Here is a decent web page giving your instructions on how to move the Windows Pagefile.sys to the D Drive: How to move Virtual Memory to a Different Drive on Windows 10 As for setting the Scratch Disk, it's pretty easy. You will be interested in Part 4 of this Article. Even though it's in the Macintosh Group, the steps are nearly identical. All you have to do is the following: Open Photoshop Click the Edit Menu Look for "Preferences" Head to the Scratch Disk Section Put a check mark next to the D Drive, then uncheck the C Drive Click Apply / OK Close and reopen Photoshop. Easy Peasy. But still give my article a read, there is more PS setup stuff that you need to check. As far as Bridge, I'm sure it's a similar kind of process, but you might have to ask Damien on that one.
  3. It's possible, and I will warn you, it's a bit of a pain in the ass. Apple makes things really easy going from a Windows Computer to a Mac, but not the other way around. If you have decent internet speed, you could try some sort of cloud service, such as Dropbox, One-Drive, Google Drive, etc. That is probably the easiest way. Otherwise, you are using a blank (new) EHD, partitioned and formatted on a PC, then you would use software on your Mac to act as a translator. Unfortunately, it seems the software that I once ran doesn't seem to be around any longer, which complicates things. That said, there is one program that you will need to buy and it's been around forever. It's called Paragon HFS+ and it's $20. This software you install on your Windows Computer and then all you have to do is hook up your external Mac Formatted HD to your Windows PC and the Paragon software should be able to access it. Here is the website: HFS+ for Windows by Paragon Software. Then copy the files from the Mac Drive to a New Windows External Drive, formatted with NTFS and if it's above 4TB, it will use a GPT-based Partition. The easiest way is to obtain a 32GB USB Flash Drive, make sure you format it to a FAT32 Partition on the Windows Computer, and then copy and paste files. Why 32GB? Because FAT32 really was only meant to go up to 32GB. Why format it on a Windows Computer? For whatever reason, I have found Partitioning drives that are meant to be on a Windows Computer should be partitioned and formatted on said Windows computer. Apple's MacOS doesn't always create a FAT32 Partition correctly, and I don't know why. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. Now 32GB these days won't help you when you have multiple Terabytes of data, which leads to the next paragraph. The other way is to turn on file sharing, and this is a complicated process. For Techie-Nerds like myself, it's not too bad. For the majority of people out there, it's a "Science Project." It also really helps things if your Windows computer is the "Professional" version and not the "Home" Edition, (i.e. Windows 10 Pro.) The Pro versions make networking so much easier, it's built for this sort of thing. In any case, you will use COPY & PASTE and NOT CUT AND PASTE. You want to keep your source files intact; this way if anything were to screw up, you can do things over again. When you Cut/Move files, it deletes the source file. Anyway, it's best to make your IP addresses on all computers Static and I'd create a special login account on your Windows computer that is just meant for file transfer and establish a Workgroup. If these terms sound a bit new to you, then File-sharing might be a bit of a challenge, though doable. When it's all said and done, I'd buy a new External Drive and get the Paragon Software.
  4. No. It's Catalina or Bust! Apple stopped "Signing Off" (Authorizing) the older Operating Systems. So even if you found someone who has a ThumbDrive with a High Sierra or whatever, chances are it won't work. But I'm not 100% sure on this one. I do know for a fact that if you upgraded to Catalina, you can not downgrade / change your mind. Unfortunately, as time goes on, it's going to get harder and harder to avoid upgrading. You have a 2011 iMac. Honestly, it's time for a new one. Here is why and what I have found in all these 40+ years that I've been dorking around with this stuff: Year 1: Person buys a new computer. Year 2: They seem happy with their purchase, if anything were to fail with their computer, this is when it will happen. Year 3: New Technology is released, marketing buzzwords usually involve "Next Level" or "Game Changer." Year 4 : Computer starts to become a bit slow, loses it's "Newness" and "Luster." But it still works and suits the person's needs. Year 5: Software development starts to take over the computer in its initial configuration, which results in some sort of upgrades. Such as: More RAM Larger Capacity Hard Drive. Better Graphics Card, possibly upgrading power supply as well to support new video card. Year 6: Upgrades seem to do the trick; life-span of the computer meets with the demand of current software and is extended for the moment. Year 7-8: Software exceeds Hardware. New Operating Systems will no longer work well on older technology, and current software programs demand more resources than what the computer will allow. The search for a new computer begins, resulting in purchasing new equipment. The cycle then repeats. You have a 2011 iMac. It's 2020. That's 9 Years, and I'd say that has been a very good run. Start saving, Edit: I went through the same exact thing. My 2009 iMac worked well with my D700 and D4s. Then I bought a Nikon D850 and that stupid camera has costed me so much money. New Lenses, New Computer which had to be upgraded to 64GB, and new External 12TB Hard Drive. I feel your pain. I have spent thousands on this shit.
  5. If you can afford it, I highly recommend (and own) a Thunderbolt 3 G-Drive. If you have a brand new iMac, and it sounds like you do, it is in your best interest to get a Thunderbolt 3-based EHD. The nice part with the G-Drives is they include all the necessary cables, and have high-quality hard drives contained inside. Meaning, they are NOT the $79 Special from Best Buy. Those drives I never recommend. Also, G-Drives are formatted for use with the Mac by default. Meaning all you have to do is hook it up and start working. The only downside is they are a bit pricey. But in my humble opinion, out of all the things you don't want to cheap out on, it's the hard drive that your data will reside. Here is where I bought my 12TB G-Drive, which has been replaced by the 14TB model. Personally, I'd get at least 6TB, and if you can swing it, something larger like 10TB or even 14TB. Edit: Why a TB3 EHD instead of a USB 3.0 model? In a word: Speed. TB3 is FAST. In fact, TB3 is so fast that I actually work off my External HD when editing photos rather than the main drive. A TB3 EHD is really like an extension of your computer.
  6. Oh, BTW...I have expensive tastes. Every time I “configure” a computer build, I always end up at a $2800 price-Point. LOL!! That’s why I didn’t link to anything.
  7. By default, the MacOS will READ and Windows Formatted HD, but NOT WRITE TO IT. You aren't doing anything "wrong," except trying to write to a Windows EHD. This way makes it easy to convert from Windows to Mac. But if you want to go back and forth between the two worlds, you will need software to act as a translator, but I will warn you, this type of software isn't 100% fool proof. In reality, Apple wants you to pick a platform (Windows or Mac) and stick with it. Honestly? What I would do is invest in a new EHD, format / partition it to use with the Mac and save your images that you edited on your Mac to the Mac EHD. Going back and forth between Windows and a Macintosh is a bit of a PITA.
  8. 16GB RAM in the Minimum I would get these days. Honestly? I'd get 32GB to start with. A Intel i9 won't be much "better," sure it's a little faster, but it isn't earth shattering as compared to a really fast and beefy Intel i7. I'd rather you get a better motherboard and a fast i7 than to blow all your cash on a i9 CPU. I like Asus, Gigabyte and MSI Motherboards. Make sure you get CPU Paste! LOL!! Samsung 1TB m.2 Drive for your main one should be fine. I'd get that over SSD with a new MLB.
  9. Yeah...contact Canon. You have a bad sensor. That's not dust and I'm seeing some "Banding" on the left side with one of the photos. No, you can't fix or clean your way out of this one. Contact Canon and schedule a repair with them. The sooner the better. Also, a quick Google Search yielded other people with this problem.
  10. What type of video card is installed? Does it have its own dedicated memory or does it use the RAM? Also, 132GB out of 500 is a bit low, especially if you have a high MP (24MP+) camera. On the surface, can you get that RAM up to 32GB and move things off that HD?
  11. Can you post a photo? if your sensor has been “cleaned” the only thing I can think of is you have dead pixels in your Camera’s sensor. Usually it’s when you set your Aperture to f/16 and shoot something bright / clean will you see dust spots. I’ve never heard of underexposure causing this issue. Also, try using a different lens just for giggles. You might get lucky and find out the problem is with the lens. Especially Zoom lenses. Usually I will get a response, “...but I never take the lens off!” If it’s a zoom, sometimes dust can work its way in the control rings when you zoom in and out. Especially if you are in dusty areas, like the beach or in a desert.
  12. Brian

    Canon camera body

    Oh, and if you are wondering what's next? When you get your new camera, LEARN ALL OF YOUR FOCUS MODES!! Don't worry about fancy editing and toys with your camera. Learn the focus modes. All of them. Know which ones to use and when, and know which modes to avoid due to your shooting style. Then start playing with all the menus and such.
  13. Oh yeah. Even at 40GB on my fancy 2017 iMac those files didn't really "flow" that well in PS until I upgraded to 64GB. I just shot my son's Engagement Photos yesterday and I took my D4s, since it's better in low light (and it's faster.) I edited some of those D4s files today and the difference between a 20MB Raw file and a 100MB Raw file is quite obvious. Also, when it comes to a D850...you need the best glass to go with it. That stupid camera has costed me so much money. I had to buy the newer 24-70 f/2.8E and a 70-200 f/2.8 E lens just to feed those 45MPs. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't have purchased a D850 and held off buying anything. Oh well. My next body will probably be a Mirrorless. As far as the laptop, I would go for the non-touch display. Thinks also don't always scale correctly when using 4K on a 15" screen, everything is so tiny until you tweak things. The issue really is with the damn laptops itself, I'm not a fan at all for people using them for photo editing. But people still want them and they keep asking. If you really want a dead-on editing screen, use a calibrated external display.
  14. Touch Screens traditionally are a bitch to calibrate. Though some have reported little to no problems in this dept. That said, I personally would rather not edit with fingerprints on my display. I'm also more interested in the Color Gamut when it comes to sRGB, because that's the mode you will be editing in. Regardless on what you read on the internet, and everyone always seems to say "ADOBE RGB!!" The truth is, as soon as you export to JPEG, by default...JPEG is sRGB. So why spend all that time in Adobe RGB when the final output is sRGB? That's why Damien and I recommend sRGB. You want color consistency, from ACR --> to PS --> to JPEG. So what do I recommend for sRGB? About 90% or better. Especially 95%+ for sRGB.
  15. OLED will most certainly give you burn-in problems. They have gotten better, but even fancy top-of-the-line LG OLED Displays have warnings printed in their manuals. I'd stick with LED for a computer display, Getting a IPS Screen will be more than enough. Remember, you aren't watching movies, you are editing photos. You need to see detail in the blacks / shadows.
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