External light source or new camera body?

[laurenrdenson]

Hi Brian,

I'm taking the leap to do photography full time. I currently have the Canon 6D Mark ii and I'm so tired of not having great low light capability during golden hour (love to get some sunset colors because they are gorgeous where I am from).

That being said. Do you think it wiser to invest in a new camera body like the 5D Mark iii or iv, possibly R6 depending on your opinion of mirrorless OR invest in some wireless off camera lighting?

Budget for a new camera body would be about $2,500 or $600 for lighting options.

[Brian]

Can you show me some examples of what you are talking about? I have a few assumptions, but before I start recommending stuff, I'd like to know what you would like to over-come. No sense in me recommending thousands in gear when it won't solve your problem. Also, how mobile do you need to be? Are you frequently "Running & Gunning" or are in a more controlled situation?

[laurenrdenson]

I don't have any examples as I cull those photos. My photos that are exposed for the sky are too dark that I can't recover the subjects (due to noise). I'm sure that lighting would be best in that scenario but I'm also aware that the 6D Mark ii isn't ideal for being full time. 

I suppose the question is more so what you believe would be a better purchase for the business side of things. Investing in the new body or lighting and work with my current 6D Mark ii.

I would primarily be using the external light source during my outdoor sessions so I would say more on the running and gunning side than a controlled environment.

[Brian]

I have a feeling I know what type of photographs you are looking for. The trick is to meter for the Sky, then bring up your flash to use as fill. Yes, you keep your ISO reasonable and pay attention to where the Sun is in the sky. Chances are, you will be working in some sort of Manual Mode on the Flash, not a TTL or "Auto" Mode, so you can keep your skies. That's just something you learn how to do over time as each scene / situation is different. Really what you are trying to learn is "Lighting Ratios." You want your subjects about 1-2 Stops darker than your skies, then you bring up your flash to compensate for the dark subjects.

Remember, the camera's built-in meter is completely worthless when it comes to flash. Well, when you are not in a TTL Mode. What is TTL? It stands for "Through The Lens" Metering. Basically the camera makes a best educated guess on what is a "Proper Exposure" based on a computer algorithm. Think of it like "Aperture Priority" or something similar. Sometimes it works, most of the times it doesn't. Usually when you use TTL, it just washes out the skies and tries to make everything evenly lit. Honestly? If you can learn Full Manual Flash you will have better results, regardless of camera body.

What I would do is this. Before you start blowing thousands on gear, start with something straight-forward:

• Canon Speedlite 600EX II-RT
• 8-Pack of Panasonic Eneloop Pro AA Batteries
• Powerex MH-C801D 8-Cell Battery Charger
• Dot-Line AA Battery Case
• MagMod Starter Flash Kit

Start there!

Use the body that you have, you aren't going to buy your way out of this one. I shoot Weddings with a Nikon D4s, which in 2014 was Nikon's Flagship Camera Body. All you will do is produce crappy photos with a expensive camera body. Granted, a Canon 6D is a "Entry Level Full Frame" camera body, and I'd invest in a used 5D Mark III or pick up a Canon 5D Mark 4 and get a Canon 24-70 f/2.8L Version II Lens, but I'd still get the Canon 600EX II-RT Flash first. I have the Nikon equivalent (SB-5000/SB-910) and it has served me well.

In addition, having a 5-in-1 or 6-in-1 reflector is handy, but you will need an assistant to use that effectively. Oh, if you are really interested in Off-Camera Flash that is portable, you might want to take a look at the Godox AD200Pro and a lightweight sand, with some sand-bags. Maybe throw in a 36" Umbrella or even go all out and get a Westcott Rapid Box Kit. Of course, you will need 2 600EX II-RT Flashes and a couple of transmitters/receivers. As you can see...this sh*t can get really expensive quickly. Just think, we haven't even talked about the EXPENSIVE stuff. I could recommend Profoto Lights at $2000 each, plus all the other accessories!

Honestly? That can come later. Nothing beats having a good flash at your disposal. It's one of those things that everyone starts out with. Why a $500 flash? Portability and how it integrates with a Canon System. That flash is a good "Spring-Board" because in reality...the "Best Flash" is the one you are about to buy. When it comes to Flash Photography, it's like Camera Bags...you are always hunting for the "Best" one.

Personally, I'm thinking about getting the MagMod Starter Flash Kit next. I've been shooting Weddings consistently for the last 7 years and I'm still on the hunt to be satisfied with reception shots. Remember, the more gear you have, the more you will get sucked into it and this will cause you not to pay attention to your clients/subjects. You can really Geek-out on this stuff and blow LOTS of money; seriously, I could blow $6500 on a set of Profoto Lights and a few stands, complete with Octas and transmitters, AND STILL NOT BE DONE. Hell, I could blow $10,000 and still not be happy.

Flash Photography is a slippery slope. Wear your seat belt and keep your hands and feet in the car at all times.

 

PS:

The Golden Rule of Flash:

• Aperture Relates to DoF and Flash Power Used
• Shutter Speed (and ISO) relate to Ambient Light.
• You lose about 75% of the power each time you double the distance between your subject and flash. For example, 1 Foot >> 2 Foot, you lose about 75%-ish of the "umph" from the flash, then 4 Feet >> 8 Feet, 8 Feet >> 16 Feet, etc. This is the "Inverse Square Law" at play and the reason you have your flash from 4 Feet to 8 Feet away from your subjects. Think of when you are using a flash you are putting your subjects on the Bullseye of a really big Dart Board. Each Ring is so many feet away. As long as you keep your flash at the same distance, regardless of what side you put it from your subjects, the flash power does not change. Understand? 
• Oh, WATCH THIS VIDEO, multiple times if you have to!!