Danielle Schaab Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) I recently sent my camera into Nikon for a repair, and they wiped out all my settings. Wouldn't be a big deal, but I have no idea how to change them back, nor what some of them even were. I bought the camera used and just learned how to use it with the settings that were already on it. Im currently reading the manual to try and figure out to change it back to shooting RAW instead of jpeg. My focus is now determined but the shitter release button, which before I used the AF-ON button to focus. And also my settings are reading 0 into my program when I upload them. Any input on camera settings would be much appreciated. I have a Nikon D700. thank you. Edited January 4, 2017 by Danielle Schaab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Let me get my D700. For to shoot in RAW, the easy way is to hold down the QUAL button on the top and rotate the rear dial. Look on the Top LCD and on the left, you will see the various settings as you scroll through them, you want to see the word RAW only. Now hit the Menu Button and head to the Shooting Menu (Little Camera) Icon. The Image Quality should display RAW. Now arrow down to JPEG Compression and set it to Optimal Quality. The reason for doing this, is just in case you fat-finger something and end up on JPEG, it's best to use the highest quality mode. Believe it or not, this setting has saved my arse twice. Now, arrow down to NEF (RAW) Recording. Type should be ON and the NEF (RAW) bit depth should be set to 12-bit. You could set it to 14-bit, but in real-world circumstances, there isn't THAT much different between the two and 14-bit Images take more space. That said, I've created a bank for "Portraits" and one for Landscapes and set it to 14-bit. I figured, what the hell. For EVERYTHING else, Weddings, Sports and Action, normal stuff, I'm using 12-bit Raw. As long as you are good with your exposure the 12-bit / 14-bit becomes a non-issue. Oh, while you are in the shooting menu, make sure your Color Space is set to sRGB. Yes, I know it doesn't make a difference if you are shooting in Raw, but it's another Cover-Your-Ass setting just in case you are accidentally shooting JPEG. To enable Back Button Focusing, head to the Pencil Icon, which is the custom setting menu. Select the A section. A1 - Set it to Focus. A2 - Set it to Focus. These two settings tell the camera to only take the photo if it feels that the subject is in focus. For Back Button Focusing, select A5 - AF Activation and set it to AF-ON only. This tells the camera to NOT use the shutter button to engage auto-focus and only use the AF-ON button. 4 hours ago, Danielle Schaab said: And also my settings are reading 0 into my program when I upload them. Could you take a photo with your phone and upload it. In other words, "Huh?" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danielle Schaab Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Brian!!!!!! You're amazing!!!! Thank you so so so much!! You saved my ass!! Session this weekend I realized my settings in light room (exposure, shadows, highlights, all these sliders) were set to 0 because it was a JPEG. I believe. That's the confusing part I was referring to. But I think it was the jpeg ! Thank you again! You're a life savor! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Yep, they are the JPEG settings. The camera has built-in settings and does a bit of post-processing with JPEGS AND THE JPEG PREVIEW, which is the image that you see on the Rear LCD. Always remember, that the image on the LCD is not the Raw file, but the embedded JPEG. That is why your camera's rear-lcd is a lying and cheating whore who will sell you down the river if given a chance. It is also the reason why your images goes from #amazeballz to #blah when you import into ACR / LR, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danielle Schaab Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I actually had no idea! I mean I always wondered why it looked different (and so much better). Lol. Ok another question... and I apologize in advance for my lack of correct terminology. Before I sent my camera in, I could choose a focal point with the little red box, focus on it, and move the camera/frame to be more off centered or what not, and the focus wouldn't change. It would stay where I originally set it even though I moved the camera. Now, I cannot do that. It won't take the picture when I move my frame/camera. It wants me to choose a new focal point. Any idea how fix that setting?? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Probably because A1 & A2 is set to focus. I like having my camera set to only take the photo when it feels that the subject is in focus. You might have to set both to release or focus / release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danielle Schaab Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 I will give that a try! I know it probably sounds weird, I'm sure I didn't explain it very well. Haha. Thank you again for all your help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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