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Elizabeth G

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  • Main editing computer
    Mac desktop
  • Editing software
  • Monitor Calibrator
  • Cameras, lenses and other photographic equipment
    Camera Bodies: Canon 5D III and Canon 6D | Lenses: 35L, 24-70L, 100L, 200L, 50 1.4, 85 1.8 | Other Equipment: 580ex II Speedlites

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  1. Right, definitely not. I am on a deadline for some magazine work, so I'm trying to at least get a workable solution for now. Thank you so much for your help! I really appreciate it. I'll let you know if RGB LED works.
  2. Do you think I can at least trust the old profile for now if I have some images I need to turn around ASAP? The screen matches my prints when I select it, but at this point my eyes are starting to go numb if you know what I mean.
  3. Ok! I haven't tried that one yet. Thank you! I get confused with all of those options.
  4. Yes, I did. I ended up restarting my laptop again and the second time it recognized the calibrator when I plugged it in. I recalibrated my laptop and it matches my prints perfectly. I tried again on the desktop and it still goes more magenta. It's making everyone's skin look extra pink. I tried choosing a setting other than Native and got the same results. I'm not sure what to do now with the desktop, other than to go into system preferences and select the color profile from the last time I calibrated with a good result. That's the only way I'm getting my screen to match the prints.
  5. Hi Damien, I tried White LED and got the same magenta result. I turned on my laptop and installed the latest version from X-rite and when I plug in my calibrator to the USB port it doesn't recognize that the device is connected, therefore I see the "No Entry" option under preferences. I turned everything off and back on again on the laptop, started over with ColorMunki and it still doesn't recognize the calibrator. It's not the USB port that is defective because I plugged a thumb drive in to make sure it was recognized by the computer. I'm starting to think this is pointing to the calibrator dying because there shouldn't be a reason why it wouldn't work on both computers, right? In the meantime, if I've gone back to the previous color profile (from the last time I calibrated) on my desktop and that is reasonably close to matching my prints, do you think it's safe to rely on that profile until I get a new calibrator?
  6. I do still have my Macbook Pro laptop. It's a bit slow running, but I could definitely try calibrating it. I don't use it for editing anymore so I didn't even think about trying that to see if the same thing happened there. I will try that if the White LED setting doesn't make a difference. Thank you for suggesting that as a test. And, yes, I hate the short lifespan of electronics, especially because I'm the type of person that keeps things for as long as possible. Haha!
  7. That is an option. Is that the first thing you would recommend changing to see if it makes a difference?
  8. Hi Damien, I always follow your instructions for calibration and have so far had success getting my screen to match my prints pretty closely. I recalibrated the other day and noticed that my screen took on an overly magenta tone once I saved the profile. I fortunately didn't save over the previous calibration profile and switched back to that version in my system preferences. It is still pretty close to my prints using the previously saved color profile. I'm wondering if my X-Rite Color Munki display is the problem. I recently installed a new Mac OS update so I decided to recalibrate after that (just updating everything). My prints that I have don't match my screen at all now when I recalibrate (each time I get a Magenta result) and I'm just wondering if you think it sounds like it's time for a new calibrator (this one is about three years old), or if I'm doing something wrong. Since I got my new iMac at the end of 2016, I've been a bit confused about what to set for technology type, but when I recalibrated this time I left it as I had it the time before. Could this be the problem? It automatically selects GB-LED (RG-Phosphor) when I go to the Preferences section. Again, in the meantime I've gone back to the last time I calibrated where I got a good result a couple months ago. Thank you for any help you can give me on this! Elizabeth
  9. Thank you so much! I really appreciate the help and I will get to those test prints ASAP! Even though I haven't done the homework for the bonus module, I've been using the print sharpening class info for client print orders and my clients are always blown away at how amazing the prints look. It's a huge difference from before I took the print sharpening class.
  10. Ok. Thank you for the clarification. If I crop to 11:15 and then want to export from LR, do I set the quality to 100, or lower (does it even matter?). Should I still leave resolution blank since it doesn't really matter when not preparing a file for print, right? I'm probably going to crawl back to Photoshop for these photos at the end of the day... I'm hoping to do the test prints soon. I know I need the info in that bonus module.
  11. I read the post at that link again. Are you saying it's bad because I'm not doing the 11x15 ratio on all the images, or am I missing the point? Or, is it bad to run image processor versus opening each individual .psd file and then "saving as a .jpg" into a folder with the edited images. I think I'm missing something of key importance.
  12. Hi Damien, I want to export some files to send digitally. These are just personal photos so I thought I'd play around with LR for this purpose. Typically when I edit in Photoshop I just do my edits in ACR and then run image processor to save the file as a JPG at a Quality level of 10. I don't change anything as far as pixel dimensions or resolution unless I'm preparing the file for print. When I am preparing a file for printing I follow your print sharpening class instructions. I haven't yet done my full set of test prints though so I've not go access to the bonus module yet.
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