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Filters for my Sigma Art 24-70 mm lens


Collette
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I am looking to build my Xmas wish list and thought ND filter and/or polarizing filter would be a good choice to add. What are your thoughts? Brands? Don't do it?

 

(Edited the subject to correct lens)

Edited by Collette
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I heart my Nikon Circular Polarizer and use it all the time. Such a useful filter and is the only "look" you can't fake / mimic in Photoshop. The main thing to keep in mind is something called thread size. That's the diameter of your mounting ring for filters. 82mm is the thread size for the Sigma ART 24-70. 

For which brands, I like B+W,  Singh-Ray, Lee and Hoya. I tend to avoid Tiffen as they are the low-end brand that's usually given away with lenses as some sort of bundle  That said, they are OK for what they are  

Here is a good CP filter that should get you started and the one I personally own:


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1175267-REG

 

Another option for you:


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1141526-REG

One of the things that you will need with a CP is a cleaning kit, specifically a Nikon Lens pen. That little sucker is handy to have. How you use a CP is you first mount it to your lens and then rotate the front CP element to add or reduce the polarizing effect. You'd be surprised on just how easy it is to get a fingerprint smudge on the thing. I'd buy this kit:


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546023-REG

The Neutral Density recommendations wil be in the next comment as they can occupy a whole thread just by themselves but first, what and where do you normally photograph? Landscapes? Waterfalls? People? 

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11 hours ago, Collette said:

I was more thinking for this as a landscape/water assistant.

A Circular Polarizer is what I would start with. If you look at my stuff, if you see water, there is a 99.999999% chance I have my CP mounted.

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I wrote this a long time ago and it still applies today:

Quote

 

Neutral Density Filter

This is like having sunglasses for your camera. It stops down the light allowing longer exposure times. This filter is very helpful when photographing waterfalls and landscapes during sunrises and sunsets. They have different levels of "intensity" such as 0.3, 0.6, 0.9, etc. etc. The best multi-purpose one would be a 0.6, which is also known as a "2-Stop" Filter. The 0.3's are really meant to be added to other filters and the darker you go, the longer exposure time will be needed. A tripod is required for the really darker ones, such as a ND 3.0!

 

ND filters may be either solid or graduated. Solid ND filters will reduce the light hitting the sensor overall. (For example, if you need to use a large aperture for shallow DOF on a bright day, or if you want to do a very long exposure to capture motion, and you can't stop down far enough.) Graduated ND filters are used for situations in which part of the scene is considerably brighter than other parts, a graduated neutral density filter can be used — for example, to prevent the sky from being overexposed in landscape photography. Graduated ND filters are usually square filters which are inserted into a filter holder, and may be either hard- or soft-edged, indicating either a sharp transition between the darkened area and the area, or a smooth one.

Cost-wise, ND filters are a slippery slope due to all the options. You can spend a little, or A LOT when it comes to ND. I'm looking at ND filter systems myself, and the price points start at around $400 and go up. LOL!! If you are looking to keep costs down, as I mentioned above, I'd start with a B+W 82mm MRC 102M Solid Neutral Density 0.6 Filter (2 Stop). Be sure to get the "MRC" or "M" version that I linked to, as it has better coatings to help cut down on flare and it's easier to clean. A 2-stop (or -0.6) is the easiest ND filter to learn on and will work well in conjunction with a CP filter. You simply mount the ND filter first, then attach the CP to the ND. If you do plan on stacking filters, try to get the ones that are marked as "Slim" or some sort of low-profile so it will keep vignetting to a minimum.

I'd start with the CP filter first, then get a ND filter.

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