Zoom Lens

[Falon]

Hi Brian,

Im not sure if you can answer this question but I'm wanting to purchase a really good zoom lens one that will be great for sports, photographing wildlife, photographing the moon etc. What would you recommend? I was looking at the canon 70-300mm F4 -5.6L and then one day purchasing the extender. Can I please ask what are your thoughts?

[Brian]

I wouldn't use a 1.4 Teleconverter (Extender) on a 70-300. Image quality will take a big hit, and the aperture blades will automatically stop down to f/8 and that will require a body that can focus using f/8. Usually that's bodies like the Canon 1DX, though I have heard of other Canon bodies being able to AF with this combo. Oh, it will take the latest firmware on your camera body giving the best chance for the 70-300 and EF 1.4x combo to work. In reality, you want a lens that has a fixed aperture of f/2.8 to work the best with Teleconverters. Those fancy lenses aren't cheap and even they will suffer from some image quality hit. 

What type of sports are you shooting? Is it Little League with kids that you can be on the sidelines or are you up in the stands amongst people? Also, what type of body are you shooting with? A Crop Body? Full Frame? Because with a crop body, you get the benefit of the Angle of View Change, which a 70-300 will act like a 112mm - 480mm lens would on a full frame. Which isn't too bad. If you are on a Full Frame body, I'd recommend somethiing like the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens, heck I'd recommend that lens over a 70-300 for both a crop and full fame body.

Most of my Canon friends who shoot Wildlife as a hobby, started out with a 70-300 (non L) on a crop body, and then ended up purchasing the 100-400mm L at some point. I've seen very good images come out of that lens. So in my humble opinion, I wouldn't bother with a 70-300L at $1349 and the 1.4 III Extender; I'd save up a little bit more and go straight to the 100-400mm L. At the end of things, you are only spending $221 more, BUT you aren't taking the Image Quality hit and you get to keep that one stop of light. Plus, I forgot to mention a Focus Speed performance hit with using a TC (Extender) which does make a BIG difference, especially with sports.

In reality, a Extender / Teleconverter just isn't a good idea; unless you have $10,000+ lenses that are awesome to begin with that can take the IQ, Focus Speed and Stops of light loss.

[Falon]

Thank you so much for your response this has made things a lot easier. I have a canon 7d it’s not a full frame body. I will be photographing my children from the side line at soccer and gymnastics and wanting to photograph wildlife without scaring them away by trying to get closer. 

[Brian]

7D? Well, using the 1.4 Extender won't work on your camera. It's completely off the table since that body won't focus at f/8. So you could buy the 70-300 L, but there is no extra reach for you down the road.

I'd still get the 100-400 L for wildlife. OR since you have a crop body, how about a 70-200 f/4 L lens? Since Gymnastics are usually indoors with crappy gym lighting having a fixed aperture helps greatly. What I mean is the 70-300 is a variable aperture lens, which automatically stops down to f/5.6 when you zoom to 300mm. With the 70-200 f/4, you choose what aperture you want and it stays there, regardless of the focal length. You could be at f/4 at 70mm, 150mm or 200mm. Same thing goes with the more expensive f/2.8 version.

I caught this with a 70-200 f/2.8 way back when on my Nikon D300s, which is similar to your 7D. I was standing near 3rd base when I took this shot, which was at f/4:

Also this shot was taken just beyond first base:

Using a crop body's Angle of View change to your advantage is key. A 70-200 on a Canon 7D will act like a 112mm - 320mm lens.

[Brian]

I know what you are thinking. But I can use f/8 to take a photo, what do you mean it won't work?

What happens is that you lose one stop of light when you mount the extender. Since the 70-300 is variable aperture lens, we take the f/5.6 aperture and deduct one stop and that's f/8. At that point, the widest aperture that you can go is f/8. You can go to f/11, f/16 and f/22, but not f/5.6, which is what your camera needs to autofocus as there isn't enough light for it at f/8. Even if you put the lens at 70mm to get f/4, it will automatically stop down to f/8 when you mount the extender. That's why you really want a f/2.8 lens or a f/4 lens with an extender and not a variable aperture one.

[Falon]

Thank you. So I would prob benefit more from a 70-200mm 2.8. I did notice there is a IS one and a IS II which is better I know it’s a newer version but is there much difference? 

[Brian]

IS II. Yes, it makes a difference. Get at least the IS II VERSION.

I have a Motto, “Buy it Right - Buy it Once.”  Canon just released the newest version, the IS III. If you are going to spend that amount of money, get the latest and greatest. Though the IS II is still a fine lens. Either way, make sure you get the IS II or IS III. With proper technique, it is possible to go down to 1/30th hand held and get decent images. The IS III is a newer stabilization system, and will serve you well with low-light sports photography  

I have a love affair with my 70-200 f/2.8 lens. Her name is Bertha. I plan on having that Lens for another 10 or so years. 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1414599-REG

The one thing I will warn you about 70-200 f/2.8 lenses, is that they are around 3lbs / 1.63 kilograms all by themselves. Pro-Grade f/2.8 Glass are usually heavy, though worth every penny. 

[Falon]

Thank you very much for your help