Back Up Solutions please

[bmw1]

Hi Brian,

I have read and re-read multiple times your reply to Sophie Bowden-Caldwell in regards to back up systems and I am still a bit confused so I'm hoping you can clarify a couple of things for me.

First up I have a late 2015 27" iMac,  4GHz Intel Core i7 with 1TB of storage (of which 700GB is currently used) and 32 GB of memory. Connectivity includes four USB 3.0 ports, dual Thunderbolt 2 ports and running Sierra 10.12.6,. Unlike Sophie I do not have a business (yet lol but plan to) and am just about to take the great unknown leap into Damien's classes to finally learn PS. Before that I want all my ducks in a row as I have no (please don't shoot me) back up system in place at the moment as my Time Capsule is not big enough. So I am starting from scratch. I also have re-read your discussions with Sommer Sweeney and Delfinakphotography whose situations are closer to my own.

My question is: why the need for a 10 TB EHD for the files backup keeping in mind I am only just starting out? Is this for financial efficiency i.e.: US$320 G-Tech 4tb as compared to US$430 10Tb? Or for future proofing i.e. having enough storage for a few years rather than replacing a smaller unit after 1 or 2 years? Or is it a PS thing? What do you use to make an off-site backup? Another 10TB? If so what is your suggestion keeping in mind that I am unable to afford a second G-Tech 10 TB? Will there be a quality drop of any description if I don't have the same EHD as the offsite b/up? Eventually I will get some form of NAS system or the Tandberg RDX system you suggested but that will be further down the track.

Secondly will the 3TB WD Black be big enough for the TM b/up (one onsite and one offsite) of my 1TB iMac ? 

Do the onsite EHD just purely stay onsite or are they rotated out with the offsite EHD? To do this properly do I need 2 permanent onsite (OS WD & Files G-Tech) and 4 extra rotating Offsite EHDs (2 x OS WD & 2 x Files ??) which will require me to buy 6 EHDs all up.

Or can I get away with just buying 4 with 1 offsite b/up for the OS and another for the Files which means they will only be backed up say once a week then taken to the offsite location and retrieved the following week, backed up again and taken offsite which sounds pretty painful.

Would be grateful for your "Just tell me what to buy already" recommendations for say a medium $$ system and then a higher $$ system or any suggestions you care to make.

 

 

[Brian]

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

why the need for a 10 TB EHD for the files backup keeping in mind I am only just starting out? Is this for financial efficiency i.e.: US$320 G-Tech 4tb as compared to US$430 10Tb?

You answered your own question in the next sentence:

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

Or for future proofing i.e. having enough storage for a few years rather than replacing a smaller unit after 1 or 2 years?

At a cost per GB, it's cheaper in the long run to spend an extra $110-ish dollars to increase the capacity from 4TB to 12TB. If you think about it, you are buying an extra 8TB of an Enterprise-Grade HD for only $110 more. It's like buying a iPhone at 64GB or spending the $50 more (or whatever) and getting the 128GB model. Of course, do you need a 12TB HD? Probably not, since you are just starting out. That being said, today's entry-level cameras usually start at 24MP. Which means much larger RAW file sizes as compared to a 12MP camera.

When you shoot professionally, you want to make sure your ass is covered so you will end-up taking MORE photographs than you realize. Not to mention, Photographers tend to get lazy. Why bother creating 100 adjustment layers to edit a photo when you can use a bought PS Action from Cutesy Name Photography? Just click Amazeballz Color-Pop #5, Vintage-Hazy Thing #2 and Super-Duper Sharpening for FB and you are done!!

You have to remember, each time one of those actions duplicates a pixel layer (i.e. Background / Main Layer) and then flattens, it doubles the file-size. So all of a sudden, you go from a 20MB RAW file to a 326MB .psd file. Times that by 100 edited photos from the Smith Family Session at the Park, and then...space becomes a commodity. So of course you could spend $320 and be fine, only to turn around in a year and spend another $320. Or you could have spend the extra $110 and be done with it. In the end, you spend more money for only 8TB! (If you purchased another 4TB drive.) $420 for 12TB vs $640+ for 8TB.

I'm a HUGE PROPONENT of the "Buy it Right...Buy it Once" philosophy. I hate-hate-hate wasting money on this sh*t. So while 12TB might be overkill, and it probably is for your situation, it's more future-proof.
 

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

What do you use to make an off-site backup? Another 10TB? If so what is your suggestion keeping in mind that I am unable to afford a second G-Tech 10 TB?

This really depends on your budget, and the amount of data that you have on your HD. While you might have a 12TB G-Drive, and only use say--3TB of data, you could get away with getting a smaller EHD, something in the 6TB or 8TB Range. Since the EHD will be stored off site, and not be used other than a off-site backup, your requirements are lower. Yes, a Tandberg RDX System is meant for being portable / off-site storage, those cartridges contain little HDs in them and they AREN'T Cheap. Here is a 2TB RDX Cartridge for $270. So that 12TB G-Drive for a few hundred more doesn't look that expensive.

But why recommend a RDX system? Because those cartridges are designed for going from Point A to Point B, as they have plastic durable cases and the cartridge itself is more durable. (That said, you don't want to go throwing them around either.) The nice part about a RDX system is the flexibility. If you need a larger storage capacity, you don't have to re-invent the wheel, just purchase a larger RDX Cartridge. The docking unit is the same for either. 

In reality, a RDX unit is meant for a Server that is currently using a Tape Drive to produce backups. When you want to increase the capacity of the tapes, chances are you are replacing the Tape Drive itself and buying more tapes. So while $270 may seem like a lot, it's better than spending $1500-$5000 (or more) on a Tape Drive and then forking out a few hundred for each Tape Cartridge. And you will want 10 tapes at a minimum, for a "A Week" and a "B Week." Then have a Monthly Backup, plus a cleaning Tape and a few spares on hand. In the end, Server-Grade Components add up very quickly. The last Server I installed for a Pediatrician's Office had a Tape Drive and Cartidges and it cost around $7000 when it was all said and done, plus $15,000 for the Server itself and then the licensing fees for the software. Believe me, you have no idea on how the Professional Grade computer stuff costs. $420 is "Cheap."

But you aren't in that world. I'm just trying to give you a perspective.

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

Secondly will the 3TB WD Black be big enough for the TM b/up (one onsite and one offsite) of my 1TB iMac ? 

My rule of thumb is to have a Time Machine Drive that is at least double in storage capacity of your Main HD. So a 2TB would work, or a 3TB would be fine as well. I personally have a 4TB TM Drive (left-over from my old iMac) that is USB 3.0. Why? More backups that last a lot longer, more peace-of-mind that I won't run out of storage as quickly, etc. Especially for folders like the Downloads folder, which tend to get out of hand very quickly without you realizing it. I'd rather TM have space to hold onto an important folder, then to delete that folder to make room for the crap that I just downloaded and is now occupying space on my main HD.

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

Do the onsite EHD just purely stay onsite or are they rotated out with the offsite EHD? To do this properly do I need 2 permanent onsite (OS WD & Files G-Tech) and 4 extra rotating Offsite EHDs (2 x OS WD & 2 x Files ??) which will require me to buy 6 EHDs all up.

Yes. They only time that they are onsite is when you are transferring data. Either to Backup your Main Storage Drive or Restore it due to some file loss / corruption.

As far as the amount of drives, if you have one drive that stays off-site, you are ahead of 98% of the people in here. Having a "A Month" and a "B Month" or an "A Week" / "B Week" would be best, at least to start out with. Just be sure to put a physical label on each drive so you can keep them straight. Get a Calendar, and on each Sunday, alternate / mark A or B. This way you will know which drive to target first to recover stuff from. It just helps streamline things and if you do it at the beginning, it will become part of your routine.

While backing up is essential to any business, let's keep things in perspective. COVID19 has killed all of my friend's Photography Businesses, which are genuine and on-the-books-pay-their-taxes-businesses...many are permanently going out of business, since as a small business owner, you don't qualify for un-employment. Of course, you could apply for a small business loan, but since that money available has run out in a few days, that's an issue as well. But that's a topic for a whole other post. What I'm really getting at is:

Photography calls many...

...but chooses few.

Don't think for a second that once you open your Business, that people are going to be breaking down your door for photographs. You have to Hustle. You have to Network. You have to Market & Pimp yourself out. You must be pumping out content on almost a daily basis. So before you go blowing lots of money on hardware, stick with the basics. Let's get you a REALLY GOOD Main Backup Drive, preferably a Thunderbolt Version G-Drive and a decent Time Machine Drive. Start there. The off-site backup stuff can wait. Personally, I feel that it's better to get a File-System / Folder Structure in place before blowing money on six hard drives. Heck, take a look at what lenses you are using. I'd rather you upgrade your main lens, get some clients, exceed their expectations, which gets you more clients / money...then to blow it on a bunch of hard drives for images that you don't have. Yet.

Believe me, I personally fell into the trap of, "If I only had this....I could do this." Translation: "If I only had this lens, or this light, or this camera body, or this modifier, or this _____, I could do ___________." I am guilty as charged. The only thing now is I have a lot of fancy gear that produces the same crappy photos because I need to evolve as a Photographer. So don't fall into the trap of trying to buy your way through things. It never works and only puts you into debt.

OK, I'm really digressing here.
 

On 4/16/2020 at 12:13 AM, bmw1 said:

"Just tell me what to buy already"

Houston, we have a problem...

You have two Thunderbolt 2 ports. All the current-model Thunderbolt Drives, at least the G-Drive line, is Thunderbolt 3...which is a USB-C Style port. Thunderbolt 3 ports on a Mac can accept Thunderbolt 2 Drives, but not the other way around. Meaning you can't have a Thunderbolt 3 Drive going to a Thunderbolt 2 Port on a Mac. It won't work.

BUT!!

I was able to find a Thunderbolt 2 G-Drive. So guess what? You don't have a choice. Buy this 10TB Drive! All of the current model Thunderbolt G-Drives are TB3 / have the USB-C connector. There isn't an adapter cable that you can use with your computer. I had to really search to find that drive and it's in stock. Plus, like I said, you have limited choices. The good news is you can use this TB 2 drive on a new iMac in the future as TB3 (or the soon-to-be-released Thunderbolt 4) is backward compatible with TB2. To put it another way, Big can go to Small, but Small can't go to Big. Make sense?

For the Time Machine Drive: I'd get this one and use a USB 3.0 port. G-Technology 4TB G-DRIVE USB G1 USB 3.0 Hard Drive.

The cool part with G-Drives is they come Mac-Formatted and have all the necessary cables included in the box. I did find another drive for the TM drive and it's a 3TB drive for like $25-ish less, but I'd spend the extra $25 and get a 4TB drive.

 

[bmw1]

Thank you Brian,

I will do as you suggest and get these two for now.

With the TM backup should I just leave it constantly running like with a Time Capsule?

I have seen your filing outline post on Sommer Sweeney's  thread which answered a lot of my "how to" questions and will implement that structure as well. Any other advice in this regard?

Having worked in the film/tv industry as a 2nd camera assist and for commercial photog's between gigs I have no illusions as to what might be in store for me as a photographer. I am trying to get as prepared as I possibly can from a business and post side so all my ducks are in a row.  I, like you, would rather buy quality the first time round and have a solid foundation to build on from there which is why I am here asking you lol. It has taken sooo much longer than I thought it would but thats how it rolls. Digital for an old school film shooter is what is doing my head in. Give me lethal chemicals and a dark room any day!

Cheers and will be back with more questions no doubt!

[bmw1]

Sorry I forgot I already had a new question for you:

What surge protector are you using or would suggest I get to help protect my new hardware?

cheers and thanks

[Brian]

2 hours ago, bmw1 said:

With the TM backup should I just leave it constantly running like with a Time Capsule?

If you want. Personally, I turn it on once a week, or something like that. Other weeks it's on all the time, depending on my mood, so I might not be the best example to follow. LOL!! The difference is, if I don't have a backup or lose something, it's my own damn fault. In reality, I don't store much on my Main HD so if it took a dump, I wouldn't lose much. You could leave it on all the time and let it backup every 30 min or so. The important thing is to exclude your main backup / external HD. You just want the TM Drive backing up the internal HD only.

2 hours ago, bmw1 said:

I have seen your filing outline post on Sommer Sweeney's  thread which answered a lot of my "how to" questions and will implement that structure as well. Any other advice in this regard?

Start with one drive at a time. I would start with the Main Backup HD and if the Mac OS asks, "Use this for Time Machine?" (or something along those lines,) tell it no. Do the opposite for the TM drive. If it doesn't ask, you can always go into Time Machine in the Preferences (Gear Icon) and set things up directly. OH! One more thing! Read Part 2 of this Thread. It covers how to configure a MacOS to show all HDs, both internal and external, as well as Flash-Media Cards that have been inserted into a Card Reader.
 

2 hours ago, bmw1 said:

Digital for an old school film shooter is what is doing my head in. Give me lethal chemicals and a dark room any day!

The Smell of D-76 Developer in the Morning was better than any coffee!! I started back with film myself. I joke that I spent my High School years in a Dark Room, and was being honest and not metaphorical.

Please don't misunderstand my intent. When I write these massive responses to questions not only am I writing to you, I am also writing to whomever might come across this thread. I hear stories all the time of how you are "...going to make lots of money!" being a photographer. All it takes is a computer, a camera, Photoshop, a couple of PS Actions, a FB Biz Page, and Boom! "You are a Business!"

In fact, a friend (in real life) told me yesterday how a Mom commented on how "You have a nice little hobby" going on and it must make you a lot of money! (The Mom also is a "Photographer" who shoots photos of her Dog.) Of course my friend, who is a real business and is an "On-the-Books, Newborn & Infant Photographer" had to be nice and just take it. It's all fun-and-games until you pay taxes. Federal Taxes. State Taxes, Local Taxes, State Sales Taxes, Municipal Taxes, Social Security (Twice - once from you and once from the Business,) Rent, Liability Insurance, Property Insurance, Equipment Maintenance, the list goes on-and-on. You know this from being in the industry, but so many "Photographers" run glorified Lemonade-Stands and have no-idea of the true costs of running a business. We haven't even figured in the amount for an Accountant and a Lawyer! All they see is the #hashtags & #humblebrags and want a piece of the action. The feeling of FOMO is strong.  They don't realize that behind the #soblessed, #livingmybestlife and #Ilovelovelovemyclients is all the Bullshit that happens behind the scenes. The worry, the stress. The long hours. They just see how "Awesome" it is to be a Photographer!! It's not...most of the time, it sucks. LOL!!

2 hours ago, bmw1 said:

What surge protector are you using or would suggest I get to help protect my new hardware?

I highly recommend getting a APC UPS. UPS stands for "Uninterrupted Power Supply." Basically, it's a surge protector on steroids that has a battery. When there is a power fluctuation, (spikes, brownouts, power-outages) the battery automatically kicks in, providing stable & filtered current, allowing me to finish what I'm doing, or at the very least, saving my work and perform a graceful-shutdown. My UPS has saved my ass on more than one occasion. In fact, we had a bit of a Wind-Storm about a week ago and the power would go out for a second or so and then come back on. My UPS didn't even blink and my computer never stopped. It's a very nice thing to have and is WAY better than any standard surge-protector. Here is the current model of my UPS. It's the APC UPS BE600M1, 600VA. 

One thing to keep in mind with a UPS, is you DO NOT WANT TO PLUG IN A LASER PRINTER TO ONE OF THE PORTS THAT GOES TO A BATTERY. You will see a few ports labeled "Surge Only." Those ports are meant for a laser printer. The Mac, the EHDs, they go into the ports labeled, "Battery Backup." The reason is the high wattage that a Laser Printer requires when printing. The Fuser, which is the component that bonds the powered toner to the paper, is around 1800 Watts or so, depending on the model. That's too much for the UPS battery to handle and it will kill it over time. For mine, I have my laser printer and speakers plugged into the "Surge Only" ports and everything else in the "Battery Backup" ports.

Finally, you must plug your UPS directly into the wall. You would be surprised on just how many times I see a UPS plugged into a surge-protector. UPS units tend to be expensive as compared to a $12 Power Strip, so people think they are "Protecting" their investment and plug the UPS into a damn $12 power strip. One, doing this compromises the functionality of the UPS and circumvents what it was designed to do: monitor and filter current; Two, not allowing the UPS to dump excess voltage properly during a power-surge / spike. Oh...by-the-way, your power outlet must be Grounded or the UPS will beep and bitch at you, flashing lights and all. So if you are in a older home with an outdated electrical system, you might be forced to use a conventional surge-protector. 

Power Strips / Surge Protectors wear out over time, and at some point, become glorified extension cords. So when you do get your UPS, pull it out of the box, hook up the battery (warning, you might see a little spark, this is completely normal as the battery has some charge on it,) and plug it into the wall. Then hookup stuff. Also, the UPS has a USB cable that connects to your computer. (This port that this cable uses is on the side / bottom and NOT on the top of the unit where the power plugs are. THAT USB port is for charging things like your phone, etc.) This cable allows communication to your computer and it has built-in software that will shut the computer down in the event of a long-term power-failure. Most UPS units give a 20-30 min of battery run-time, so if you do have a power outage, finish what you are doing, or at least save things, and shut down. If you are away from home, the UPS and Operating System will take care of things if the computer is left on.

Have a good one! Enjoy your Purchases!!

[bmw1]

Thanks for all your advice Brian,

apparently I don’t have a choice again lol as my house is old with old wiring so I will not be able to get a UPS unit in the short term. I have tried to research standard surge protectors but cannot make out the differences from the starting price of $30 x $40 all the way to $150. 
can you give me any guidance as to how to proceed from here?

cheers

[Brian]

Here, buy this one:

APC Surge Protector

You'll also probably need one of these adapters, if you just have a Two-Pronged AC outlet:

AC Outlet Adapter

[bmw1]

Thank you so much for all your help & time Brian, very much appreciated, cheers