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mrlang30

old WD External HD issues

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I am planning on buying a new External HD.

I have an old WD My Book Essential External HD.  In the past I have lost a lot of files.  I would use its interface and didnt realize it only copies your current files over the old one's.  I was told i should have just copy/paste into the drive itself.  

If I buy your recommendation of SanDisk Professional 4TB G-DRIVE Enterprise-Class USB 3.2 Gen 1 External Hard Drive, will I have to copy/paste or is its interface much better than my old HD?

I dont want to continually lose files because I dont know what Im doing! 

p.s. I have them on a 2nd backup, so technically not completely lost.

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I use a Windows 10 PC Asus laptop.

Edited by mrlang30
update PC info

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I’m a bit confused. So the real question I think you are asking, is you want to copy changed files over automatically or backup one drive to another automatically? 
 

Personally, WD software has sucked since the 1990’s and it does not surprise me at all that you have lost stuff. 
 

So how do you want to do you backups? 

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In the past I have backed up up onto the WD, then deleted the files from the PC.  The next time I backed up to the WD it deleted all the files I had previously deleted from the PC.  I want my EHD to save ALL files I add to it, it do not want it to mirror the PC.  Does that make sense?  Were the lost files my fault, did I use the WD improperly?

Also in the future, if I work on a file and its changed, I want the file to reflect the change on the new EHD.  Is that possible?

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2 hours ago, mrlang30 said:

Were the lost files my fault, did I use the WD improperly?

Yep.

Just plug in the External HD, and save directly to it. You just have to navigate to the drive. Most EHDs will have a letter like D:\ or G:\ you just have to figure out drive letter is assigned to it.

Or if you want to save to the main drive while you are working on something, then copy it to the external, all you would need to do is select the file(s) and right-click-choose-copy. Then open your EHD to the appropriate folder that you want to save and right-click-paste. It will then copy the files leaving the originals intact on your HD. When you are satisfied that everything is copied over correctly, you can then delete the files on the main HD. By using copy/paste and NOT cut/paste, you are keeping the original files in-tact so that in the event that something goes wrong, or you screw up, you can try again. :) Believe me, I've screwed up. I lost photos from 2007-2010 and still haven't gotten all of them back. Always Copy/Paste your files. 

If you do purchase that G-Drive, create a new thread. I want to make sure it's setup and partitioned correctly before you use it.

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In current treads I've read you recommended the SanDisk G-Drive but in last years threads you were still recommending the WD's.   Trying to keep my budget below $100 and still have a nice EXH with 4TB.  Do you no longer support WD?

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23 hours ago, mrlang30 said:

keep my budget below $100 and still have a nice EXH with 4TB.  Do you no longer support WD?

When it comes to a hard drive, "Nice" and "below $100" can not be in the same sentence.

I will NEVER recommend a EHD that is a $99 Special from a Big-Box Store. I like my HDs beefy and stable, and that comes with a cost. As of right now, I really would have you save up more money and Buy-it-Right than to screw around with your data on a cheap drive. In this case, you really do get what you pay for.

Western Digital Drives: You have to be careful with them and the ones that you purchase. The worst kind of drives, either from Seagate or WD, are the "Eco-Friendly" or "Green" HDs. The difference between a working Green Drive and a Dead one is about 3-4 weeks. Those suckers are junk. Pure Garbage. They are also cheap (Those $99 Drives,) so a lot of people have them. It's true that I have owned and recommended WD drives in the past, but they are usually the WD "Black" line that has 7200RPM drives in them. The 5400RPM drives tend to be the lower-quality drives and it's very difficult to figure out what drive is installed in the external enclosure. WD isn't always that good in telling you what is installed.

Example: Here are 5 Dead External Western Digital "Green" Drives out of 7 for an old customer of mine. The are all the same Western Digital External "My Book" Drives.

IMG_3910.thumb.PNG.7dff37167fe4652a00f96e9fa8c3a897.PNG

All of them were doing the "Click-Click--Ka-Thump--Click-Click..." situation. (Click of the Angry HD. :D) Fortunately, I had two other HDs that had the data, so we just disposed of these bad drives.

Now when I mean, "Black," I'm not talking about the color of the enclosure. WD has different "Lines" of drives, from the Green / Eco-Friendly, to the more Prosumer "Blue" line, to the Caviar "Black" Line and then they have the "Red" & "Gold" meant for Servers and NAS Units. Finally, there is the "Purple" line that is meant for to record Video. Most consumers won't ever purchase the "Purple" line, those are meant for Security Systems and DVRs and such.

So it's really hard for me to recommend an External HD from Western Digital. Here is a WD 12TB Easystore EHD at around $300. The Easystore Drives seem to be the 7200RPM models, and the Passport line tends to be 5400RPM. At that price-point, you are in the territory of a G-Drive in terms of cost.

G-Drives: These are the drives that have my data. They are Enterprise Grade (Business / Commercial), are "Beefy," "Fast," and have the high quality components inside. They also cost A LOT more than the $99 Drives. But I don't worry about them. I know my data is safe. Personally, I'd rather spend $500 or so on a high quality drive, that lasts for years, then purchase a $99 Drive which has to have data recovered by a Data Recovery Service for $1500 because the HD is "Clicking" and requires major surgery to get your data back. 

Bottom Line: When it's all said and done, you just need to save up another $84 or so to get a 4TB Enterprise Grade G-Drive. At that point, you might as well spend $210 and get an extra 2TB with the 6TB G-Drive Model, which I feel is "The Best Bang for your Buck" model. You can never have "Too Much" HD space. The other G-Drives you probably have seen me recommending tend to be for Mac Users that have Thunderbolt 3 Ports. THOSE drives are really expensive, usually around $700 expensive. You don't need one of those.

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Do you ever recommend the data recovery Protection Plans?  Amazon has 3 years for $14.

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1 hour ago, mrlang30 said:

Do you ever recommend the data recovery Protection Plans?

Nope.

I do encourage purchasing decent recovery software though. Such as RescuePro Deluxe for Flash Based Media (SD, & CF Cards, etc.) and File Recovery Standard Edition for HD Recovery. I have also used EaseUS Data Recovery in the past.

If you are looking for a free option, Recuva is the software that seems to be recommended most.

Honesty? All those Service Plans are Pure Profit. That's how Service Companies make money; you give them the money in case if something happens, but often nothing does. If you don't ever place a service call with them or file a claim, they still have your money. :) $14 times hundreds and thousands of people is a lot of money.

Honestly? The ONLY plan that I willingly purchase is AppleCare for my Mac Products. Why? Because Apple is really the only one who fixes their items.

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SanDisk Professional 4TB G-DRIVE Enterprise-Class Desktop Hard Drive HDD, Ultrastar Drive Inside, Up to 195MB/s, USB-C (5Gbps), USB 3.2 Gen 1 - SDPH91G-004T-NBAAD

Above is what I ordered. You mentioned coming back to you for help formating it to a PC.  Thank you.

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Yep. Let me know when it arrives. Partitioning and Formatting takes about 5 minutes and is very easy to do.

 

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