Roleen

So it just hit me like a tonne of bricks... I opened one to check check and they are all RGB profile... Duh...

Sorry... Can I Convert these to sRGB and reprint? Or would you suggest I use my own photos.  I just don't have any decent skin color photos I can use and that's sort of important to me. 

These are the proofs supplied by Datacolor/Spyder4 which is on their CD. I'm not really a photographer myself and the photos I do have are limited to pets and a few landcapes, so I thought using their proofs especially the one for skin color would make sense and give me an accurate representaion of color. Wrong? 

Hi. Sure. See attached. 

Hey...

I'm struggling to get my screen to match my prints. On my skin color test print there is a slight yellow, greenish tint to the photo on screen.  On another photo of different colored peppers the reds are slightly a different hue and more saturated. Also on a landscape photo the green grass is also a different hue. The black and white is close enough. And a landscape photo of a late afternoon sunset with yellow grass in front is also very close to matching. Its soft pink and yellow colors. nothing vibrant. I have a iMac calibrated with a Spyder Pro 4 with your method. Gamma 2.2; White Point - Native; Brightness Native 107. Any suggestions? I used the photos proofs supplied by Datacolor and asked my lab to make sure to not make any adjustments to them.  

14 hours ago, Brian said:

Your question does make sense and unfortunately, I have no idea. Apple blames Adobe for various issues and Adobe blames Apple. Of course, the end-users are stuck in the middle. 

What I think is happening, is Adobe hasn't completely figured out Apple's graphics drivers and that's the source of the issue. Combine that with the ultra-high resolution of a Retina Display and we have the end result you are taking about. 

Using the current version of PS CC will probably yield the best hopes of a resolution, along with using MacOS Sierra. I know, "Duh! That's just a Hyperbole statement, but it's the only thing that I have to give you. 

I will move this thread to the Land of Misfits. Maybe someone else can help out. 

What a conundrum... Thank you so much Brian. Guess we'll just have to have faith and hope they figure it out soon. 

Hi

I hope this question is okay to ask here.  Do you perhaps know if the issue with the Retina displays has been sorted?  I'm talking about the 100% view in Adobe Photoshop of say a 200px x 300px image that displays so small you cant work on it at 100% or determine if the overall sharpning of a photo is adequate.  I know the 2016 Macbook Pro is due, but I'm hesitant to get one if the problem is an Apple problem and not an Adobe one that they will fix with an update.  Actually I think I sound stupid with that last sentence. I know, suspect rather, Adobe will have to fix things on their side?  But I'm not that thecnical to know all the details and what that would imply or if a "fix" like that is even possible so soon in the game.. Obviously Retina is the (and I use this term lightly) future, but how do we adapt?  I'm all for progress and change and I do love the Retina even if I don't necessarily know if it is needed at a consumer level, but I sure love my Blue Ray player and Hi Def Tv and would of hated if we got stuck with VHS and those old box tv's.  Anyway, I hope some of this makes sense and if you could guide me a little in understanding what our options is concerning this.  I understand there is a switch to make your computer apparently work in low def for editing... But I sure hope that isnt their solution tot the problem... I mean come on... 

Cofused

Hi

Having so much fun brushing up on my editing with this class.  Just to clarify. Like the adjustment brush the straighten and graduated filter should be left for photoshop? Also my original editing workflow would be opening acr and doing Lens Profile Correction (which also lightens the edges somewhat) and Remove Chromatic Aberration first thing before doing any other adjustments. Any reason I should not be doing that? 

Wow, thank you for the very detailed reply Christina. Really appreciate it. Now it all makes sense. 

Hi Damion/Guys

I'm a little stuck. I've got prints from my usual lab but what I can't seem to understand is:

These phosos were edited on my uncalibrated screen and then printed. Now I should calibrate and compare those prints to my current callibrated screen? And it should almost match? I don't understand. Isn't the calibrated screen supposed to be different (better) than the uncalibrated one? How can I then compare it to photos edited and printed on the uncalibrated one? 

Sorry if this a dumb question. But I can't seem to get my head around it. 

Thanks

Haha! Thank you Brian. Yes I've been a little mia from editing the last three years. Just starting up again now. Can't believe what a difference three years makes. Everything needs upgrading... But exited to be back at it again.

Thank you so much for the quick and informed answer. I do have the DVD drive and have never upgraded from the 4 so will buy two 8GB kits then. And would crucial be your number one recommendation for RAM? 

Hi there

I've been getting mixed answers. If I want to upgrade my ram in a late 2011 27 inch iMac. What is the maximum? 16 or 32?