Samantha LaRue

Once you know what they need from you, it's as simple as converting to the proper profile (do not assign, only convert).

It's great that you have 4000k bulbs, but that doesn't mean that that is enough lumens for the size of your space. When you take your images outside on a bright sunny day, are they just as dark? 

1 hour ago, Amanda C said:

I am waiting for the last test prints to come back from Loxley (91p for 7x5), but they are the Lab (which I mentioned to you in the Sharpening Class)  that tell me I must select ‘Convert to Working RGB' next to RGB under Colour Management Policies' in Edit>Colour Settings. Loxley are the only lab with this instruction and all he could tell me was that if I didn't change that setting they wouldn't be able to print my images.

That's absolutely silly. The only time that setting would matter is if you were editing an image that wasn't in sRGB to begin with. But since you are working in sRGB from start to finish, it doesn't change anything!

Can we see a screenshot of the image you're working on?  (make sure to include the layers panel as well)

10 minutes ago, Gina Gentile said:

Ugh, I think I found the issue! I'm stupid lol. I scrolled through my adjustments and had the saturation bumped up for some weird reason making that colorize adjustment way more saturated then I wanted. SO MUCH BETTER! 

So everything is working good now?

You'll probably want something with at least 16gb of memory. Brian should be along shortly with a more specific recommendation.

Wow, so we have a lot of options there. First, lets save for Facebook without the PTM action and then post the image to Facebook and see if the problem persists.

How are you converting them to black and white? And how are you saving them for Facebook? (pixel dimensions, quality level, and file type)

It looks pretty good, but please undo whatever you did on the eyes. They are way over sharp and look very fake. 

You'll need to convert to DNG and edit the files as DNG files. You cannot alter a cr2 file directly.

2 hours ago, Brian said:

I know your budget is tight, but you are throwing money away. 

My biggest regret when I started was not buying better glass. So much money wasted that I could have saved and put towards something nicer! Only one of the lenses I started with have I kept, and use on a regular basis.

Aw, I think you'd need to post this in his raw class for the best help. (you can always PM him to renew and get back in the class. You do not need to get on the waitlist again or pay full price) But lets wait to see if Damien has any other suggestions for you.

Are you in Damien's raw class?

After the initial calibration, lower it to match the prints, then run the device again to record the new brightness. Do not raise the brightness back up during calibration.

Gosh, I'm not sure what to advise. 

I guess the first thing I'd want to ask is who's wedding is this? Are you doing it just as a favor to a friend (who knows you don't own a DSLR) and it's a relatively small event? or have you been approached by a potential client and will be paid for this? You need to make sure that their expectations are inline with your skill level and what you can offer. 

Which brings me to my 2nd point - it's fine to get an older camera, but you need the best glass you can get. The types of lenses you use are what make the difference in the different types of shots you'll be able to get. Do you want a long focal length to get good creamy bokeh? or do you need a wider lens to capture as much of the environment as possible. Many wedding photographers choose to rent their lenses when they are starting out to make sure they have the best variety and don't need the lens except for a couple days a month. Renting a backup body is also a good option to make sure that if your first camera body fails, you can still get the images that your wedding clients need (there are no do-overs like in portrait work!). 

Lighting is something else you need to consider. Do you know how to use flash? If the event is to take place outside, you might not need any flash at all. But weather is unpredictable and you may be forced to shoot indoors. You'll need at least basic off camera lighting equipment in case the location isn't well lit or not lit as you'd hope. Some cameras also perform better in low light than others, so you'll need to take this into consideration when you are choosing a body to use. 

It also sounds like you do not  have experience editing raw? That in and of itself is a skill that takes some time to learn. You may be better outsourcing your editing to someone who specializes in weddings if your skills aren't where they need to be.

In general, I would not recommend "get all this free stuff" bundles from Ebay or other places. They usually include cheap, poorly made, low quality items that you'd never consider buying on your own to add to the "value added" appearance. Whichever camera you decide to go with, I'd buy the body and the glass separately, unless you just so happen to come across a bundle that includes the things you were looking for (unlikely lol).  

I'm not sure why your brightness won't reach the target, or even go way above it. With your screen way brighter than the prints I'd think it would measure higher when you're calibrating. 

But, regardless, you should leave it where it matches your prints, and take a good look at your lighting to make sure it's white and bright enough.  (and that there is no glare on the computer)

Go with the brightness that matches your prints, because yes, it does affect it. If you struggle to match the brightness then make a frank assessment of the light in your room. 70-100 is a general rule of thumb and guideline, but it's not a hard and fast rule.  

3 minutes ago, KelseyLynn said:

I have CS5  and Canon 60D- ok i will give that a shot- Thank you

I just checked Adobe's site and you should have no problem openin your raw files in CS5, if CS5 is up to date. It is supported. 

Can you take a screenshot next time that error message appears? Or of your files in windows explorer?

8 minutes ago, KelseyLynn said:

My computer will open the file in one of the picture programs (Photo Gallery) But when i open lightroom or photoshop it says the file is either corrupt or not supported.

I believe I had to download some type of converter?? 

The first article that Christina linked will walk you through how to troubleshoot the process of opening your raw files.

What version of PS do you have and what kind of camera?

8 hours ago, Amy Claire said:

Yes I followed all of Damien's instructions and performed it multiple times. Still no idea how to fix it.

Have you made it down to part 9 yet, where the troubleshooting instructions are? What options have you tried there? 

3 hours ago, Laura Davis said:

 i am sitting right next to a window and was looking at images with blindes closed, then i tried with blindes open and print looked much brighter (obviously) but computer seemed much darker.  

 

It sounds like the light in your room is much to dim for editing. Have you read this before? 
 

4 hours ago, Laura Davis said:

Morning!  I was in preference setting it all up - then I reach the Technology Type drop down menu and the only option it gives me is : "No Entry"  - I am up to date on the latest download.  

It's weird that your computer let your continue the calibration process without selecting the technology type. Usually this option shows up because the calibrator isn't plugged in or the system hasn't recognized it yet. Can you try to restart your computer (leaving the device plugged in) and opening the program again?

58 minutes ago, TonySalas said:

 

2) ...if I edit on a non-calibrated monitor, print, calibrate to match the print, edit another image on a now calibrated monitor, and print again.. won't they still no match? I hope this makes sense.

 

No. After you calibrate your monitor to match your prints, then all future prints will match what you see on that monitor. 
 

39 minutes ago, TonySalas said:

I received a 16x20 e-surface print today and it came back dark. And I'm not sure I understand why.

 

Have you already calibrated your monitor to match your prints? Or is this the first print you've ordered?

5 minutes ago, OlgaR said:

Sorry!  Another question.  If there is a question in relation to one of the discussions in the Editing forum, is there a way to reference a particular discussion?  Thanks!

Just copy the URL and paste it into your new post and it'll show a preview within your new post.

15 minutes ago, Shaun said:

I did however adjust this area a while back. 

And make sure to reset the screen to your factory defaults before you calibrate. 

What kind of laptop is this? Can we see a screenshot of where you are viewing the color options?