Samantha LaRue

I think it might be. Can we see the SOOR? (all raw editing done, but no photoshop work)

The loading speed was the main issue. People would add a bunch of fancy elements and bog their page down. Slow to load webpages are often overlooked when your potential clients are trying to find you for the first time. 

Not at this time.

What part of the tutorial are you getting stuck on? 

Were you following these instructions?

Also, can you check your colorspace of your files real quick? Just want to make sure that they are in sRGB. That tutorial is here. 

And finally, you don't use the ICC profile from the lab to calibrate. Ignore that for now.

1 minute ago, Maryann said:

Yes, there's someone selling one for $35 so I figured that if it would work, it would be a great deal. 

As long as you are ok with the fact that its very likely it might not work with your new monitor. If money is tight, I'd consider saving a bit more to get one of the newer devices. 

1 minute ago, Jodi C said:

So I burned NEF files onto a CDR for archival purposes. Is there something that I need to select before I burn?

It's been ages since I've used a CD for anything but music, but I *believe* you cannot just edit a file that is on a CD. 

I do believe Damien uses (or use to use) CDs for archiving, so I'll let him answer that one. 

Have you moved the images to your computer yet, or are they still on the CD?

I found a solution on the Adobe Forums: 
 

Quote

For Read Only files, go to Windows Explorer, and Select those files. Rt-click on them, and choose Properties. Near the bottom will be Attributes. Is Read Only checked? If they are Read Only (and not locked due to permissions, etc.), if you uncheck that, then the files will no longer be Read Only.

Let me know if this works!

2 hours ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said:

I should test it against that metal print profile from h+h, but I assume I should get test prints back first, right?

I would just to be safe.

27 minutes ago, Jodi C said:

yeah 1 cause it kept telling me that my jpeg was too large.

 

Too large for the forum you mean? We will definitely look into that if that's the case! 

Hooray! 

Now that Musea matches your monitor, do you still notice a color shift when you softproof?

So...which one matches your prints better?

You'd go with the top one.

But holy cow! Why is your monitor so bright? There is no way that matches your prints, right?

Just now, JamieStefankoPhotography said:

Alright then. It's a very overcast/rainy day, still better off waiting till nighttime?

It shouldn't make a difference if you are able to control the light in your room and there is no light directly hitting your screen.

If you're worried about light leaking under the sensor and interfering with your results then you can always drape a light dish cloth over the monitor while the device is taking its readings.

Yep, that's the one. 

13 minutes ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said:

Bah, they're a bit off from Miller's too - I upgraded my PC less than a month ago, so it's a new calibration.

This might be why your metals seemed overly magenta too! (they looked fine to me)

Sounds like you'll need to calibrate again. Do you have the instructions handy for your device?

4 minutes ago, ConnieR said:

Thank you Samantha you are a lifesaver and I will sleep much better tonight.... I'm not familiar with Bridge, but so excited it will ease the process. Off to do more homework!

PS I just purchased the Epson V800 photo scanner so I have that in my tool shed to assist. I was afraid to start the process but you have established a workflow for me. Thank you!

Oh good! Glad to hear you have the correct scanner. Image Processor is located under Tools > Photoshop and should be pretty self explanatory to use.

I don't have any personal experience with slides, however from what I understand you need a special type of scanner to process these images. 

I'd scan them at whatever the best file type is (I'm guessing it'll be tiff). After you have your files scanned and safe on your computer, then it should be a simple matter of using Image Processor via Bridge to batch save jpeg copies to share with your friends and family. 

24 minutes ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said:

Before I ordered prints, I soft proofed them with their profile, its that where I went wrong? I don't remember how I did it with Miller's, it was ages ago. 

Yeah, it might be. How do the prints compare to your screen without softproofing turned on? 

Also, can you pull your Miller's prints out and see if they still match your monitor without softproofing?

And what's scrubby zoom? 

1 hour ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said:

 I have their ICC profile on softproof, and when comparing, theirs is definitely warmer.

Can you explain more what you meant by this? I see Damien touched on it already - you don't use ICC profiles to softproof. 

Were you using the same method to assess your calibration with Millers? This might account for why your Musea prints seem much warmer.

I don't know anything about those lenses, but I highly recommend looking at 6d instead of the 70d. It's not much more and the 6d is an amazing camera. My 70d often left me frustrated because of the issues I had with noise all the time.

All of Damien's articles can be found at www.damiensymonds.net

Any bookmarks you have to old articles should redirect to his new website.