Samantha LaRue

1 hour ago, Christina Keddie said:

Glass first, body second.  You will get a MUCH higher bump in image quality if you invest in high quality lenses first. 

I usually agree, but since her current camera is in need of repair it also becomes a question of if it's worth repairing the sensor on the older camera. Is the repair more costly than the camera is worth? It might be best to get a quote first to see just how expensive fixing the sensor. 

Does this affect all your images, or just this one? 

7 minutes ago, Cindy Galvin said:

What would be the next best one to go with. Looking at spending about $1800 max

Camera or lens?

And since your prints are so drastically different, are you 100% sure that your labs did not apply color correction to either order?

47 minutes ago, CanonGirl said:

"edit>fill>50% grey", and then "filter>noise>add noise"? 

Because you already did this when you created the noise pattern. Once you created it, you can save it and use it on other images and will save yourself some time in the future. Did you see this tutorial yet?

I'd definitely get a 6d if you can. I don't know of any reason to repair that camera unless money is an issue for you. And since a 6d doesn't have a popup flash you'll be forced to learn off camera flash too.

You don't need to save as PSDs until you are actually ready to go into PS (and have done some work in PS). You can just click "Done" in ACR and your adjustments will be saved to XMP data so you can make adjustments later. 

And, though I'm not a Mac user, I don't believe you are suppose to save your files on directly to the desktop. Hopefully @Christina Keddie, @Brian, or one of the other admins that have more Mac experience can help. I'm also not sure if saving your images in such a way, on a Mac, would cause you trouble if you decide to open additional files to edit or to cull more in Bridge. 

Saving how? The adjustments to your raw files in ACR are saved as XMP data and should save really quickly after you click "done" and ACR closes. 

Hmm, I am not sure what to advise. I have a good guess, but I don't want to give you bad info. My thought is though, that your images should be resized and cropped to " 1920px x1080px " , and then sharpened. But I don't know how that works when you're adding images to video. You might just have to crop your images to the 16:9 shape that Youtube uses and send the full resolution file and not sharpen it. 

Wait for Damien to get on in a bit and see if he has any additional experience with this!

Can you share the link you found with us?

Do you mean megapixels or megabytes? I'm curious as to how you went about resizing the images?

Woah this was amazing! I hope someone else has a similar photo that they can submit so you can make this tutorial for your website! 

Are you receiving an error message when you try to post? Have you resized it for web already and saved as a jpeg?

Don't use a brush for your watermark.  Not being able to change the colors is one of the main reasons! But also, you can't record an action with a brush! Damien has setup a great little save for web action that you can use and make adjustments to that will allow you to use your watermark as a PSD file (and keep all the details and colors). 

Depending what lens from sigma, it could be really good. The new Art series is very well reviewed and reliable. 

Here is the download link for PC.

You'll need to download the Creative Cloud app manager thing first.

Can you please post the SOOR Hope? That would be your image with raw edits on, and no PS work yet done to it.

What about the rest of your image? Ignoring the skin for moment?

Why would the monitor adjust itself?

Did you try putting the brightness on native and manually lowering the brightness of your monitor as low as it will go? How low did you need to go to get a print match?

Well, for now, let's just assume you have enough light then and see have close we can get. Have you moved to the troubleshooting steps for the display? 

I'd try the part at the bottom here first, and adjust the brightness so that it matches.

The light affects your results because just *running* the device isn't enough. You have to go back and make adjustments to your monitor (which is why you're comparing the prints to the monitor). So if the light in the room is too dim or not the right color, it can make the prints appear too dim or too warm and you'd make the incorrect adjustments to your monitor or struggle to be able to match your monitor at all.

I'm also a little confused now because earlier you said your prints were much too dark inside, but now you are saying it's own a slight difference?

13 hours ago, Anne Adlington said:

My prints are a little warmer with more pink I would say. Funny I've been playing with it and I just manually adjusted my contrast, ran the calibration again and it prompted me to adjust my contrast. Great. Then I got to the brightness and nothing I did would make the yellow line move. 

What settings were you trying to make the line move?

What white shirts? The shirts the people are wearing? 

Don't worry about any other setting right now, just worry about your light in your room and your monitor. Once you get that sorted so that your monitor matches your prints, then you can do a better edit.

So since you have noticed that your prints look much better in broad daylight, it leads me to believe that your 3 bulbs are just not enough light in your space, which is affecting your calibration results. You need to find bright bulbs, or a way to introduce more bulbs into your room to improve the lighting conditions there.

I'm also really confused about why you said "unplugging the spyder" but seem to be running the colormunki software? Did you just mispeak or did you try to run the wrong software?