JohnL Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I use an XRite ColorMunki Display. I originally calibrated as D65 but changed to Native after reading your tutorial. I've done it both ways several times. I find there is a quite significant difference between the two, which I wasn't expecting (D65 is much bluer, although not blue, more neutral). I'm sticking with Native for now, as it just looks like a better version of the original sRGB profile for the Monitor. I didn't expect this from your article, just that Native might give an overall better result but both should look the same (or very similar) so wondered, if you have a sec, what your opinion was? Oh and BTW one of the recent Windows updates changed the colour management settings and turned off all the calibration, which I hadn't immediately noticed. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Symonds Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 The only thing that matters is the comparison to your pro lab prints. How is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnL Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 (edited) Alas you'll have to wait until I stop doing B+W as that's all I've printed recently. Came out okay though. (Yes, I know I should do some colour prints, but I'd rather calibrate now as then maybe I'd get a good set and not have to reprint, but without it I'm very unlikely to get a good set.) My question is really am I misunderstanding what Native gives me vs D65, which I'm pretty sure I am? Maybe I should just ask why you recommend Native over D65? Edited May 14, 2017 by JohnL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Symonds Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Come on, ya tightass This conversation is completely pointless without prints. You just need a handful of 5x7s. It's no great expense. Hurry up and get 'em done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnL Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 But what about video... Anyway if you don't have an explanation for the recommendation on Native rather than D65 I think I can handle everything else myself. Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Symonds Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Native is the starting point, that's all. If it proves not to be a sufficient match for your prints (as long as you're comparing in good light) then you will explore other options. This is all explained very clearly in my instructions. Native is ideal if possible, because it means the least screwing around with the LUTs. The further we have to move from native, the greater the risk of banding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnL Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 But if print shops use D65 and D65 seems a long way away from Native is it the best recommendation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Symonds Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 John! Get the damn prints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien Symonds Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Until you have those puppies in your hand, this is all pie-in-the-sky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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