Calibration Questions from Grace for Damien.

[GraceCJG]

Dear Damien!

I So, So deeply appreciate you having a look at these questions.  

I want to be sure that my prints from the professional printers look the same as the computer files I complete from editing.

Again Thank You!  Very, Very Appreciated!

The questions are as follow:

Questions

The system for calibration and software I have chosen and why: 
1.    Datacolor Spyder 5 Pro
2.    I chose Displaycal as my software.
3.    Physical screen type: Acer monitor. The exact monitor is Acer R240HY bidx 23.8-Inch IPS HDMI DVI VGA (1920 x 1080) Widescreen Monitor.  It was purchased January 11th 2016.
4.    I chose Displaycal because in my researching online a lot of people wrote they felt it was better than the Spyder 5 Pro software in terms of calibration coming out correctly and well. 
5.    Displaycal: Current settings: Chose color temperature 5000 since I still am unsure which to choose 5000k or 5500k or something else? 
6.    White level  chose custom 120.00 cd/m2 . I read something about this in the original install instructions from the website. Not totally sure if it is right for what I am doing. Some places said they felt it was too bright for photograph editing. So, still pretty confused here.
7.    Tone Curve Gamma 2.2 . 
8.    Calibration speed: Medium,  I read this may be better than high if one is working with photos.
9.    Profiling: Profile quality is set to high
10.    Amount of Patches:  I chose 1148 as I read a thousand and up was good for photo editing, but really unsure what number to set it at.
11.    Testchart:  is currently set to Auto-optimized.
12.    Profile name: this is a giant long name, I have zero idea what it means.

13. I am currently using Adobe Photoshop. The online subscription version that updates regularly.

The other stuck points are as follows:  
1.    The monitor’s  6 unlabeled buttons are still giving me trouble, but I am getting better at moving them, just not consistently. Read the manual. It didn’t give adjusting instructions, adjusting the brightness is painstakingly hit or miss so far.
2.     The instructions suggested to make internal adjustments to set the monitor to Gama 2.2 I located the  internal calibration software but it lets you adjust it by eye not by a specific setting. I have no idea if there is another place somewhere to set it to Gama 2.2.  I also read somewhere else about setting it to Gama 1.8. No clue what is right, head is spinning…

3.    I learned Photoshop has an internal setting of 6500k. I learned this setting is for online viewing not great for those of us making physical prints. I then learned many decide between 5000k and 55000k, which is preferable?  Should I be calling my professional printer to ask about their settings then matching my screen to their screen or and their actual printer’s settings. 

I learned some monitors look worse after calibration, and getting it right sounds trickier the deeper I traverse into research. What needs to be done to make sure the files match the professional printing service I work with regularly? When I did printing in the past, none of them needed edits, it hasn’t been a concern till recently, when some actually needed color adjustments due to being too dark and other issues.

4.    I read even if you calibrate your monitor if you do not change the native 6500k in photoshop. Your prints will still be off. How do you change photoshop’s setting?

5.    I chose white led as my monitor mode in Displaycal I am not sure if this is what my monitor is. My friend who knows a lot about monitors was fairly sure this is the accurate choice.

6.    There are two boxes in Displaycal, white and black level drift I have no idea whether to check them or not?  I know to leave the monitor on for 30 minutes before starting, but I read something about warming up the spyder 5 pro, does that just mean plugging in the USB or do I need to do something else to get it to warm up? And how long does one wait for it to warm up?

7.    On your page about calibration, you suggested I have some prints from my printer to assist in the process of calibration. I do have color prints but not a black and white one. I do not intend to print in black and white, so does that mean I don’t need to acquire a black and white print in order to properly calibrate? 

8.    I have also been reading about different types of monitors and how this effects calibration choices or something.  I read in an article here https://photographylife.com/how-to-calibrate-your-monitor   that said “What Kind of Monitor Do You Have?
Without a doubt, your choice of a monitor is very important for accurate color reproduction. If you purchased a monitor for under $300-400 dollars, it most likely comes with a “TN” or “Twisted Nematic” panel that cannot accurately display colors due to limited color gamut and dithering, and might not have a good viewing angle. That’s because such monitors were never designed for color critical work in the first place – they are consumer-grade monitors designed for basic computing, gaming and other needs. While we have already provided our recommendations on best monitors for photography, if you would like to identify the type of monitor you are using for viewing and editing photographs, take a look at this article and see what you have today. Perhaps you have a solid monitor worth calibrating, or perhaps it is time to upgrade to something better. It is important to have a reliable monitor for color calibration, because cheap consumer-grade monitors might shift their colors and brightness levels from time to time, potentially making color calibration less accurate and effective overtime. Therefore, if you have one of those cheap monitors and do not want to be plagued with inaccurate colors and tones, I highly recommend replacing it with a better monitor.”
Does this mean I need to buy a new monitor? My monitor is definitely a consumer grade monitor $129 dollars.
 My monitor was purchased in 2016 is it too old?
 Is it not high quality enough for a professional photographer making physical prints to do post processing with?  
If I do need a better monitor, what is a better monitor for what I am doing for work? 

9.    I came across a conversation online early on that added to my questions. The conversation is a in quotes, my points of confusion as I read are in between in the bold print: Peter said: “calibrating display doesn't mean automatically photoshop will display calibrated result. You must select menu View, Proof Setup, Monitor RGB. If not you will get different result if the same picture opens with Color Managed Browsers like Firefox.”  What are they talking about and what is it I should be aware of?  James said: “You are correct, but you are mistaking output profiles for viewing profiles.” Which one is right? 
Peter replied: “As far as I know not every photographers doing calibration knows that. Actually we're not calibrating display ONLY but creating display profile so both hardware and software can show calibrated results properly. The hardware (monitor) itself cannot show 100% calibrated result by doing this procedure so if there is change by reinstalling OS we must recalibrate. Calibrated display also needs color managed software to show calibrated results.”  James Said in response: “Again, you are mistaking output profiles (what you should be soft proofing) and viewing profiles (the result of calibrating —how your monitor displays the image you are working on no matter what soft proofing profile you choose). Both calibration and soft proofing use color profiles, but soft proofing has nothing to do with calibration (other than it is useless if your monitor isn't calibrated first). The thing to remember is that the image is a set of numbers that is sent from the computer to the video card where the video card translates them into a signal the monitor can read, then the monitor interprets that signal into lights for your eyes.
Once you calibrate your monitor, your calibrated monitor profile is already loaded into the video
card and makes an adjustment to ALL video data so that what you are seeing is not distorted by an anomaly in the video card or monitor. It is passive for the user— you do not need to do anything because it          Usually       loads on start up.   "Usually" What does one do if this "usually" doesn't happen? I have no clue what they are talking about or what a profile or a soft proofing is."Essentially, each monitor/video card interprets data and signals slightly differently, and your monitor profile makes adjustments to the data from your computer to monitor so what you see is what the numbers are supposed to show.
Soft proofing is so you can see how other devices will interpret the file at the end of editing it, whether that is a  custom profile your lab uses for printing or simply sRGB, which most web software uses to display your photo on another monitor. Soft proofing is just a way to mimic how a different medium will display your photo so that you are not surprised when you get your prints back. It does this by changing the image data before it goes to the video card.
This is where they differ. At it's most basic, soft proofing changes what numbers are sent to the video output device/video card (to mimic another medium) then those numbers are adjusted by the video card (using your calibrated profile) to compensate for monitor inaccuracies. If you soft proof with your monitor profile, the image is adjusted as it is output to the video card and again at the video card. You have adjusted it twice and made it less accurate for no reason. I'm not trying to be an ass about this, but this is a very complicated subject, and you are giving out wrong information that will only make it more confusing. 95% of photographers only need a basic knowledge of Photoshop to be able to color correct their own images.”   I am utterly confused, which one is right?  A smooth transition from 1. Taking a photo. To 2. Post processing. 3 large fine art print, sounds like it involves a lot past calibration.

10.    I also read a comment online that said: “The color temp for the sRGB spec is d6500K ”   My files are sRGB, do I need to set something in photoshop or adjust a file or? Quite confused here.

11.      Before I found your site I read online in the first week of research someone talking about adjusting one’s display color within 1 delta. I got completely lost here. Actually most of what I read confused me, what I read was this: 
“If you selected White level drift compensation and Black level drift compensation in your settings earlier now is where you stop. Take a 30 min break and let your colorimeter warm up and then continue this section. If not, carry on.” Here is where my earlier questions came from about how to warm up the spyder 5 pro and whether or not to select the white and black level drift.
“Now your goal is to adjust your display color to within 1 delta. You’ll notice 3 colored bars, adjust your monitor until all the bars are as close to center (the triangles) as possible. How to do this varies by monitor. Search your monitor settings until you find RGB sliders. On my monitor they are under Color Temperature.”  I don’t even know where to look for these settings he is talking about.
“Once you are within 1 delta you should see some text light up green. If you can not get it lined up super close, it’s not the end of the world. Get it as close as you can. Note: Sometimes you have to adjust two colors to adjust one color. For example on one of my monitors the red doesn’t like to adjust how you think it should by adjusting the red slider, but by lowering both blue and green you can raise the red level.” I am not sure if he is still talking about adjusting the physical monitor somewhere or in the software…
“If you can’t adjust your monitor in this way (common on laptops) then skip it. Next adjust your brightness to the level of your choice. At the bottom it lists where you started, and below that what the current value is. If you set a custom White level under Calibration then the center triangles are your target.” A custom white level? What is the right white level for editing photos for printing? Is he talking about in the software or?
“Once your monitor is adjusted as you see fit, click Stop measurement. Then click Continue on to calibration. Nothing left to do but sit back and let it do its thing.
Once it is done you can apply the new profile. If you have never done this before there is good chance the new profile may look weird, for example my monitor looked a little red. If your monitor had a heavy blue color this should be expected. Give it a good day or three of use and before you know it it’ll look right.” 1. Is he saying I need to create a profile? If so what is a profile and how does one create it? 2. Does this mean after calibration it takes 3 days before you know if it is done correctly? And if so, how do you know it’s right? I assume this is where holding the prints up near the screen comes in, yes?
“If your monitor is too bright or dim redo this process and target a different White level.” Knowing if it is too bright or dim, is again about comparing prints with screen yes or?  And the white level talked about is where and how?  
 

 

 

 

[Damien Symonds]

Hi @GraceCJG, thanks for posting!  Let's take this a little chunk at a time ...

Quote

The system for calibration and software I have chosen and why: 
1.    Datacolor Spyder 5 Pro

Good choice.

Quote

4.    I chose Displaycal because in my researching online a lot of people wrote they felt it was better than the Spyder 5 Pro software in terms of calibration coming out correctly and well. 

BAD choice.  Stick to Spyder's own software.  Don't listen to nerds.

Please go ahead and calibrate using my instructions.  First, read this if you haven't already.  Then follow these instructions.

[Damien Symonds]

Quote

13. I am currently using Adobe Photoshop. The online subscription version that updates regularly.

Great.  It's vitally important that you do this check: https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html

[Damien Symonds]

Quote

Physical screen type: Acer monitor. The exact monitor is Acer R240HY bidx 23.8-Inch IPS HDMI DVI VGA (1920 x 1080) Widescreen Monitor.  It was purchased January 11th 2016.

I looked it up, and it looks very good.  I've had good experiences with Acer screens.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

5.    Displaycal: Current settings: Chose color temperature 5000 since I still am unsure which to choose 5000k or 5500k or something else? 

6.    White level  chose custom 120.00 cd/m2 . I read something about this in the original install instructions from the website. Not totally sure if it is right for what I am doing. Some places said they felt it was too bright for photograph editing. So, still pretty confused here.
7.    Tone Curve Gamma 2.2 . 
8.    Calibration speed: Medium,  I read this may be better than high if one is working with photos.
9.    Profiling: Profile quality is set to high
10.    Amount of Patches:  I chose 1148 as I read a thousand and up was good for photo editing, but really unsure what number to set it at.
11.    Testchart:  is currently set to Auto-optimized.
12.    Profile name: this is a giant long name, I have zero idea what it means.

Ignore all of this crap.  DO NOT USE DISPLAYCAL.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

2.     The instructions suggested to make internal adjustments to set the monitor to Gama 2.2 I located the  internal calibration software but it lets you adjust it by eye not by a specific setting. I have no idea if there is another place somewhere to set it to Gama 2.2.  I also read somewhere else about setting it to Gama 1.8. No clue what is right, head is spinning…

3.    I learned Photoshop has an internal setting of 6500k. I learned this setting is for online viewing not great for those of us making physical prints. I then learned many decide between 5000k and 55000k, which is preferable?  Should I be calling my professional printer to ask about their settings then matching my screen to their screen or and their actual printer’s settings. 

I learned some monitors look worse after calibration, and getting it right sounds trickier the deeper I traverse into research. What needs to be done to make sure the files match the professional printing service I work with regularly? When I did printing in the past, none of them needed edits, it hasn’t been a concern till recently, when some actually needed color adjustments due to being too dark and other issues.

4.    I read even if you calibrate your monitor if you do not change the native 6500k in photoshop. Your prints will still be off. How do you change photoshop’s setting?

5.    I chose white led as my monitor mode in Displaycal I am not sure if this is what my monitor is. My friend who knows a lot about monitors was fairly sure this is the accurate choice.

6.    There are two boxes in Displaycal, white and black level drift I have no idea whether to check them or not?  I know to leave the monitor on for 30 minutes before starting, but I read something about warming up the spyder 5 pro, does that just mean plugging in the USB or do I need to do something else to get it to warm up? And how long does one wait for it to warm up?

Ignore all of this crap too.  PLEASE stop reading random nonsense on websites.  Just follow my calibration instructions, that is all.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

7.    On your page about calibration, you suggested I have some prints from my printer to assist in the process of calibration. I do have color prints but not a black and white one. I do not intend to print in black and white, so does that mean I don’t need to acquire a black and white print in order to properly calibrate?

Which lab are the prints from?

Do any of the prints have areas of some neutral tones?  That would be sufficient.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

8.    I have also been reading about different types of monitors and how this effects calibration choices or something.  I read in an article here https://photographylife.com/how-to-calibrate-your-monitor   that said “What Kind of Monitor Do You Have?

Without a doubt, your choice of a monitor is very important for accurate color reproduction. If you purchased a monitor for under $300-400 dollars, it most likely comes with a “TN” or “Twisted Nematic” panel that cannot accurately display colors due to limited color gamut and dithering, and might not have a good viewing angle. That’s because such monitors were never designed for color critical work in the first place – they are consumer-grade monitors designed for basic computing, gaming and other needs. While we have already provided our recommendations on best monitors for photography, if you would like to identify the type of monitor you are using for viewing and editing photographs, take a look at this article and see what you have today. Perhaps you have a solid monitor worth calibrating, or perhaps it is time to upgrade to something better. It is important to have a reliable monitor for color calibration, because cheap consumer-grade monitors might shift their colors and brightness levels from time to time, potentially making color calibration less accurate and effective overtime. Therefore, if you have one of those cheap monitors and do not want to be plagued with inaccurate colors and tones, I highly recommend replacing it with a better monitor.”
Does this mean I need to buy a new monitor? My monitor is definitely a consumer grade monitor $129 dollars.
 My monitor was purchased in 2016 is it too old?
 Is it not high quality enough for a professional photographer making physical prints to do post processing with?  
If I do need a better monitor, what is a better monitor for what I am doing for work?

Nope, this is all bollocks.  Your screen is fine.  I mean, it's true that there are much better screens out there, but you must not concern yourself with changing it at the moment.  It will calibrate fine.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

9.    I came across a conversation online early on that added to my questions. The conversation is a in quotes, my points of confusion as I read are in between in the bold print: Peter said: “calibrating display doesn't mean automatically photoshop will display calibrated result. You must select menu View, Proof Setup, Monitor RGB. If not you will get different result if the same picture opens with Color Managed Browsers like Firefox.

Holy crap!!  No, this is SO wrong.  Peter is an idiot of the highest order.

Please read: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/02/please-ignore-your-monitor-profile.html

Also this: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/web-browsers-and-facebook.html

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

9.    I came across a conversation online early on that added to my questions. The conversation is a in quotes, my points of confusion as I read are in between in the bold print: Peter said: “calibrating display doesn't mean automatically photoshop will display calibrated result. You must select menu View, Proof Setup, Monitor RGB. If not you will get different result if the same picture opens with Color Managed Browsers like Firefox.”  What are they talking about and what is it I should be aware of?  James said: “You are correct, but you are mistaking output profiles for viewing profiles.” Which one is right? 

Peter replied: “As far as I know not every photographers doing calibration knows that. Actually we're not calibrating display ONLY but creating display profile so both hardware and software can show calibrated results properly. The hardware (monitor) itself cannot show 100% calibrated result by doing this procedure so if there is change by reinstalling OS we must recalibrate. Calibrated display also needs color managed software to show calibrated results.”  James Said in response: “Again, you are mistaking output profiles (what you should be soft proofing) and viewing profiles (the result of calibrating —how your monitor displays the image you are working on no matter what soft proofing profile you choose). Both calibration and soft proofing use color profiles, but soft proofing has nothing to do with calibration (other than it is useless if your monitor isn't calibrated first). The thing to remember is that the image is a set of numbers that is sent from the computer to the video card where the video card translates them into a signal the monitor can read, then the monitor interprets that signal into lights for your eyes.
Once you calibrate your monitor, your calibrated monitor profile is already loaded into the video
card and makes an adjustment to ALL video data so that what you are seeing is not distorted by an anomaly in the video card or monitor. It is passive for the user— you do not need to do anything because it          Usually       loads on start up.   "Usually" What does one do if this "usually" doesn't happen? I have no clue what they are talking about or what a profile or a soft proofing is."Essentially, each monitor/video card interprets data and signals slightly differently, and your monitor profile makes adjustments to the data from your computer to monitor so what you see is what the numbers are supposed to show.
Soft proofing is so you can see how other devices will interpret the file at the end of editing it, whether that is a  custom profile your lab uses for printing or simply sRGB, which most web software uses to display your photo on another monitor. Soft proofing is just a way to mimic how a different medium will display your photo so that you are not surprised when you get your prints back. It does this by changing the image data before it goes to the video card.
This is where they differ. At it's most basic, soft proofing changes what numbers are sent to the video output device/video card (to mimic another medium) then those numbers are adjusted by the video card (using your calibrated profile) to compensate for monitor inaccuracies. If you soft proof with your monitor profile, the image is adjusted as it is output to the video card and again at the video card. You have adjusted it twice and made it less accurate for no reason. I'm not trying to be an ass about this, but this is a very complicated subject, and you are giving out wrong information that will only make it more confusing. 95% of photographers only need a basic knowledge of Photoshop to be able to color correct their own images.”   I am utterly confused, which one is right?  A smooth transition from 1. Taking a photo. To 2. Post processing. 3 large fine art print, sounds like it involves a lot past calibration.

Ignore all of this nonsense.  James seems to be correct, but you honestly don't need to worry about any of this stuff.  It all happens automatically, and very safely.

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

10.    I also read a comment online that said: “The color temp for the sRGB spec is d6500K ”   My files are sRGB, do I need to set something in photoshop or adjust a file or? Quite confused here.

As long as your files are sRGB (the link I gave earlier will confirm) then no, you don't need to do anything else.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, GraceCJG said:

11.      Before I found your site I read online in the first week of research someone talking about adjusting one’s display color within 1 delta. I got completely lost here. Actually most of what I read confused me, what I read was this: 

“If you selected White level drift compensation and Black level drift compensation in your settings earlier now is where you stop. Take a 30 min break and let your colorimeter warm up and then continue this section. If not, carry on.” Here is where my earlier questions came from about how to warm up the spyder 5 pro and whether or not to select the white and black level drift.
“Now your goal is to adjust your display color to within 1 delta. You’ll notice 3 colored bars, adjust your monitor until all the bars are as close to center (the triangles) as possible. How to do this varies by monitor. Search your monitor settings until you find RGB sliders. On my monitor they are under Color Temperature.”  I don’t even know where to look for these settings he is talking about.
“Once you are within 1 delta you should see some text light up green. If you can not get it lined up super close, it’s not the end of the world. Get it as close as you can. Note: Sometimes you have to adjust two colors to adjust one color. For example on one of my monitors the red doesn’t like to adjust how you think it should by adjusting the red slider, but by lowering both blue and green you can raise the red level.” I am not sure if he is still talking about adjusting the physical monitor somewhere or in the software…
“If you can’t adjust your monitor in this way (common on laptops) then skip it. Next adjust your brightness to the level of your choice. At the bottom it lists where you started, and below that what the current value is. If you set a custom White level under Calibration then the center triangles are your target.” A custom white level? What is the right white level for editing photos for printing? Is he talking about in the software or?
“Once your monitor is adjusted as you see fit, click Stop measurement. Then click Continue on to calibration. Nothing left to do but sit back and let it do its thing.
Once it is done you can apply the new profile. If you have never done this before there is good chance the new profile may look weird, for example my monitor looked a little red. If your monitor had a heavy blue color this should be expected. Give it a good day or three of use and before you know it it’ll look right.” 1. Is he saying I need to create a profile? If so what is a profile and how does one create it? 2. Does this mean after calibration it takes 3 days before you know if it is done correctly? And if so, how do you know it’s right? I assume this is where holding the prints up near the screen comes in, yes?
“If your monitor is too bright or dim redo this process and target a different White level.” Knowing if it is too bright or dim, is again about comparing prints with screen yes or?  And the white level talked about is where and how? 

Ignore all this too.  My calibration instructions take you through all this.

[Damien Symonds]

Hi @GraceCJG, are you there?

[GraceCJG]

23 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

Hi @GraceCJG, thanks for posting!  Let's take this a little chunk at a time ...

Good choice.

BAD choice.  Stick to Spyder's own software.  Don't listen to nerds.

Please go ahead and calibrate using my instructions.  First, read this if you haven't already.  Then follow these instructions.

 

39 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

Hi @GraceCJG, are you there?

Just now arriving! Been a long day, boss arrives back tomorrow!

[Damien Symonds]

Well, what I want you to know, in summary, is that everything is MUCH easier than you've been making it

[GraceCJG]

23 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

Which lab are the prints from?

Do any of the prints have areas of some neutral tones?  That would be sufficient.

My prints aren't from a lab exactly, I get them done at a small photography shop here in the US. I know the owner and they do excellent work.  Hmm well, there are some off white clouds would those be neutral enough?

[GraceCJG]

1 minute ago, Damien Symonds said:

Well, what I want you to know, in summary, is that everything is MUCH easier than you've been making it

That's a relief!  You are so appreciated Damien! ! !  I will go over all the links you have provided carefully, follow your instructions to the letter as best I can and see if I can get this screen calibrated!  Thank You ! ! !

[Damien Symonds]

2 minutes ago, GraceCJG said:

My prints aren't from a lab exactly, I get them done at a small photography shop here in the US. I know the owner and they do excellent work.

Ok, that'll do for now.

2 minutes ago, GraceCJG said:

Hmm well, there are some off white clouds would those be neutral enough?

Yes, that will also be sufficient for now.  I hope you'll get some black-and-white photos at some stage in the future, though.

Do you mind posting the photos you have, to show me?

[Damien Symonds]

What I fear most is the worst-case scenario that you do this check and find out that your files aren't sRGB after all.  That would throw an element of doubt over your prints.  They might be ok, or they might not.

[GraceCJG]

9 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

Ok, that'll do for now.

Yes, that will also be sufficient for now.  I hope you'll get some black-and-white photos at some stage in the future, though.

Do you mind posting the photos you have, to show me?

This is from a forest trip we took.

 

Edited July 8, 2018 by GraceCJG

[Damien Symonds]

The file you just posted is untagged.  This is a problem, not just now but always.  Never save photos without their profiles.

Make sure the profile box is checked when saving.  It will look something like these:

Can you save and post it again for me, along with some others?

[GraceCJG]

2 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

The file you just posted is untagged.  This is a problem, not just now but always.  Never save photos without their profiles.

Make sure the profile box is checked when saving.  It will look something like these:

Can you save and post it again for me, along with some others?

I am not sure what program you are using, usually I just edit with paint when saving photos for work.  sometimes I add my name etc. What kind of file information is needed for calibrating? Do I need to take a new unedited photo?

[GraceCJG]

4 minutes ago, GraceCJG said:

I am not sure what program you are using, usually I just edit with paint when saving photos for work.  sometimes I add my name etc. What kind of file information is needed for calibrating? Do I need to take a new unedited photo?

What's tagging?

[Damien Symonds]

Oh crap!  You can't use Paint!!!!!!!!!!!

[Damien Symonds]

Ok, let's take this one step at a time.  Have you opened the photo in Photoshop and done this check yet?

[GraceCJG]

Just now, Damien Symonds said:

Oh crap!  You can't use Paint!!!!!!!!!!!

I am starting to learn photoshop, but honestly, I still cannot even resize a photo in it yet... I am clueless with post production.