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  1. Last week
  2. The main issue is, you need A LOT more storage than you think you do! A Mac Computer does not distinguish between an internal or external hard drive; as far as the macOS is concerned, they are all mounted devices. What does this mean? If you go above 80% ON ANY HARD DRIVE, INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL, >>> PERFORMANCE TAKES A HIT!!! <<< Unfortunately, I'm seeing full hard drives everywhere. You NEED like 12TB or 18TB or larger. Stop it with these smaller hard drives!!! As far as getting a bigger internal HD for your Mac...I've got news for you... It's not possible. Surprise!!! When Apple switched over to the Apple Silicon Chips (M1-M4, and soon to be M5,) there is no upgrading after the fact. Why? Because the HD controller chip is built into the CPU Chip itself. The only HD media that works with the Apple Silicon is Apple HDs, and guess who doesn't sell Apple Internal HDs? Apple!! Same thing with RAM, what you buy is what you get. If you want to add more RAM or get a bigger internal HD, you are buying a whole new computer. Think of the new Mac Desktops / Laptops as glorified iPads; if you find that you want more RAM or bigger HD a few years down the line after the initial purchase, you are SOL. Upgrading RAM & HD? That thinking was 20-30 years ago. Now they want you buying new computers sooner, rather than later. Fun Times... This is why I configure my recommendations of WTB as I do, yes...they are expensive, but there is a "Method to my Madness." I'd rather have you fork out more money up-front, and grow into your purchase and have it last as long as possible. When I configure my computers, I have a 7-8 year lifespan in mind. Otherwise, you are buying a new computer every 18-24 months, if Apple had their way. So what do I recommend? Honestly? I'd get a Sandisk 18TB Thunderbolt HD and hook it up to a TB port on your Mac. The Throughput on a TB Drive is like working off an internal HD, even if it's a spinning EHD. Then store your images there. Now, I'm sure you just clicked that link and said out loud, "$693 for a fucking EHD? Are you serious?!?!!!" I'm dead serious. $693 (plus tax) is WAAAAAAAAAYYYY cheaper than forking out $4000-$5000 for a new Mac.
  3. Ok, everything is working, thanks! I guess I've been doing it wrong for a while, but if I were to add all my photos to the internal HD I would quickly be over capacity, so a long time ago I moved them to an external drive and backed them up to time machine and backblaze. So, to do it right, I guess I would need more storage on my Macbook? I have a 1TB hard drive. I'm not sure how to interpret this but here's some info on my internal drive currently:
  4. Earlier
  5. You must always use pro lab prints for monitor verification.
  6. Hang on, you're not comparing to home prints are you?
  7. I followed the instructions and it's even wose now, too bright somehow and the colour a bit more off, never had this issue before i'm starting to think this is impossible because i think its something to do with the prin ter getting old This time i did V2 instead of V4, and custom photo preset, so adjusted the rgb to 6500k instead of choosing native
  8. Here is a shot of all my EHDs that are hooked up to my Mac: Yours should be similar.
  9. Yes, I would use it more for culling and passing the time but would like it for some quick on site editing. I’ll only be able to let you know how it works if Santa is extra nice to me this year but I do think I may go for one at some point. Thanks!
  10. Thank you so much for the link, now I know what we are dealing with. APFS FORMAT IS FOR SSD DRIVES / Flash-based Media. Mac OS Extended (Journaled) is meant for Spinning / Traditional Drives. How do I know that it's a Traditional / Spinning HD? From the price and specs. a 6TB Flash Based Drive is closer to $800 than $149. Let's begin... Believe it or not, you know the bulk of what we need to do, as you have done it already. I'd remove all external drives as a precaution, or simply right-click and select "Eject." Then head to Application Folder >> Utilities >> Disk Utility. From there, select that WD MyBook 6TB Drive and choose the "Erase Button" at the top. Give the HD a name, and when it asks for a Partition Type, you want Mac OS Extended (Journaled). >> JUST THAT ALL BY ITSELF, NO CASE SENSITIVE, NO ENCRYPTED, none of that stuff!! JUST PLAIN 'OL MAC OS EXTENDED (JOURNALED)!!! << Here is a shot of my 12TB external. Give it a name of your choice, something obvious, like "Time Machine." I'm sure there will be a few warning pop-ups, asking if you really-really want to do this, click Yes/OK/Confirm, whatever. Wait a few seconds and the drive will format. Close out of Disk Utility, and head back to the Mac Desktop. Right click on the WD EHD, and choose "Get Info." It should say Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for the Partition Type. Close the Get Info Box. Hook up all your external hard drives, if you can, and I'd do a restart. This will make sure everything is mounted. Once restarted, we will dork around with Time Machine. Head to the System Settings, Click the Gear Icon on the Dock Bar and select "General," you should see Time Machine on the right. System Settings >> General >> Time Machine. From there we want to add that WD 6TB EHD as your Time Machine Drive. We want to add that WD 6TB EHD to be the drive that's used for "Time Machine," by clicking the "+" sign at the bottom / lower-left corner... ...and selecting the drive we want to use for Time Machine: Then choose "Set Up Disk..." After it's selected to be a "Time Machine" Drive, click Options and be sure to exclude ANY External Hard Drives that have your Data / Images on them. >> Time Machine is really only meant to backup your Internal "Macintosh HD" Drive. << It is not good practice / really-really-really bad, to backup your externals to your Time Machine Drive. That's how you get into trouble; you are backing up your backup files to a Time Machine Drive that is serving as your backup. It's like a closed loop, got it? Meaning it is a recipe for disaster when the time comes to restore things. Plus, it's real easy to fill up a drive configured like that. Just...don't. (This is what started this mess, along with the wrong partition type.) Here is what my Time Machine Options look like, noticed how my externals are excluded, along with the actual Time Machine Drive: If you need to add any external HDs to be Excluded, just click the "+" sign and select the drives. (See a theme here? Apple makes this pretty straightforward.) Then click Done and close out of Time Machine. It should start the initial backup, which might take a few hours, then it's set to backup each hour. That should be it at this point, let me know if there are any problems.
  11. I'd be more concerned with editing on a plane / airport, as the light around the tablet WILL change how you see your colors. Just like a laptop. So for culling and passing the time, sure. For serious editing work...you want to do that at home, in the area that you normally edit in. Give it a shot and report back. I'm curious.
  12. RTX 5070 or 5080, with at least 8GB of dedicated Video RAM, using the NVIDIA Studio Drivers. (The more VRAM the better, like 12GB or 16GB+.) The "Studio Drivers" are meant for programs like Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom. The default Drivers are meant for Video Games / General Computing. I have never been a fan of the "60" or "50" of NVIDIA's lineup. (i.e. 3060 / 4050, etc.)
  13. Hi i all the sudden need to buy both a laptop and a desktop. So many choices but seems 4080 isnt popular now as they all seem to be 5060 or 5070 etc. Which one is better? Thank you!
  14. In a FB group, I came across someone wondering what tablet to use for editing. I didn't think anything would really be acceptable but I did come across the ASUS ProArt and was wondering if it may be acceptable for editing a few photos while on a plane or just away from the main computer for a while. Any thoughts on this thing?
  15. Ok, good news, I've gotten all my files from Backblaze copied to my thunderbolt drive and everything works great with that drive in Bridge. Now I need to reformat my other drive: a WD MyBook 6 TB. I need to erase it and reformat it in APFS format, correct? Then I'll make it my Time Machine backup.
  16. Comparing your screenshots with my instructions, this is where we seem to deviate.
  17. No i used v2 back then, ive compared v2 and v4 on screen and theres no difference, dont know if that translates to print yet
  18. Did you use Version 4 with your older device too?
  19. Yes, i always used it before with the older device as well
  20. Did you double-check to make sure White LED is correct for your screen?
  21. Hi I got the calibrite software working while using my new calibrite display pro hsl, and when comparing my prints to screen, the icc profile is less accurate than just choosing the default srgb profile Never had this problem with the older istudio with the software My moniter is the gigbyte M32Q, windows 11, and i am selecting the custom display to calibrate on the moniter settings, not the srgb display Basically the prints have too much of a magenta cast, on LRC i switched between the custom profile and srgb (using xrite display profile app) and the latter is closer to print "Use windows display calibration" is unticked, and "use my settings for this device" is ticked Posted screenshots to show what i did
  22. It could very well be a sensor issue (repair) that Canon needs to get involved.
  23. Thanks Brian. I did borrow an RF lens (24-70 or whatever the RF is) and still had the same issue. I really did think it was a camera issue but then got some sharp photos on primes. I've never seen any difference in sharpness with primes vs zooms until this camera. The 70-200 is an EF (L). I'll have a play with the lower res and see what it looks like. I'm seeing unreasonable noise at ISO 800, which is super frustrating!
  24. YES. Also yes, but with Jazz Hands. That's what started us down this whole "Rabbit Hole," and I feel that it started with the WD software screwing up and creating things in the wrong parititon. I mean, how would you know that "Case-sensitive, (Journaled)" would cause you so much grief? In reality, ALL of your HDs need to be erased that have the Case-sensitive BS. Fortunately, it only sounds like that WD HD is the culprit and it had your files. In addition, if you had your Time Machine Backup files on it, I wouldn't worry about those either; with it being in the wrong format, those Time Machine files are worthless. Good times, eh? The good news is, you have Backblaze and this time it's saving your butt AND we can start a fresh Time Machine Backup. So get that Thumbdrive squared away and your files restored. Then once that is completed, I want to erase that WD 4TB EHD and re-partition/format it to the correct format. Is that EHD a traditional spinning drive?
  25. Ok I have downloaded a few files from backblaze and I am able to rate them in bridge. So I think I have to order a thumbdrive of my files and replace them with that - after properly reformatting the drive, of course. If I order a drive from backblaze they will mail it to me. I can return the drive once I'm done. It says the drive will be encrypted. Will that matter? Ugh, what a pain all this is! But I appreciate your support!
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