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Worked like a charm! Thank you for the detailed instructions.

That's an old marketing trick to get people to spend more money. The are banking on the "Apple Tax" which is the amount of people that are willing to pay extra, just because they spent a lot of by buying a Macintosh to begin with. This practice was a HUGE thing back in the 1990's. People would pay $30-$50 more for the same exact damn Hardware, except one was labeled "For Macintosh," or some similar verbiage, and the other stated "Windows." What's the difference? Hardware-wise: Absolutely nothing. Software-wise: The Manufacture just partitioned and formatted the HD for you. So if the price was exactly the same between what you saw on Amazon vs B&H, you are fine. If the drive on Amazon was $399.99 and the one on B&H that was "For Macintosh" and retailed for $449.99...you wasted $50. Why? Because you could do the same exact thing that the Manufacture did with the "Windows" Drive (to turn it into a Macintosh Drive) yourself...FOR FREE. Takes like 5min your 1st time with Utility Tools already built into the macOS. Fortunately, this is not the case, as the prices are the same on both Amazon & B&H. *Phew!!* Anyways...back to your new HD. Yes, we will need to delete the existing Partition and create a new one. Why? Because the APFS is really for SSD Drives / Flash Media Based Drives and NOT a traditional spinning HD Platter Drive, which is what you have. Mac OS Extended (Journaled) is what you want for a 7200 RPM Traditional HD. It's not a huge deal that you will kill your data, but from a performance perspective, it's not ideal. So here is what we are gonna do: Copy over any utility software that's currently on the Sandisk 12TB EHD and just put it somewhere temporarily, like on your Mac Desktop. Will we need this software? Probably not. Do you want the fancy HD Icon that Sandisk gives you? Absolutely. Head to your Applications Folder >> Utilities >> Disk Utillity. It should look something like this, or something very similar: From there, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SELECTED THE NEW SANDISK 12TB DRIVE THAT'S FORMATTED TO APFS. I can not stress this enough, you do NOT want to be working on the wrong drive!!! In fact, I recommend that you disconnect any other external drive, temporarily, until we finish this. Once you are ready to delete the existing partition, and have selected the correct HD, right-click and select: Delete APFS Volume. A Warning Message will appear. Click Delete: Another pop-up box with the results should appear, with the words "Operation successful." Click Done. Now select the Drive once again. It might have a weird name at this point, that's perfectly fine. Click the Erase Button at the top: Give the HD a name, like Sandisk 12TB (Or something obvious.) Choose MacOS Extended (Journaled) from the drop-down list next to the word Format: Another Pop-up Box will appear, confirming your choices: You want: Name: Your Choice Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) GUID Partition Map Click the Erase Button, another pop-up box will appear, let it do its thing. There should be another box that says, "Operation Successful." Click Done. The Drive should appear on your Mac Desktop. Then right-click on the drive, select "Get Info."Drag the fancy Sandisk Icon from your Desktop to the little HD Icon in the "Get Info" Box, in the upper left corner. The default Icon should disappear and the Sandisk Icon should be visible. Start copying files over to it. You are done! Edit: Just think!!! Manufactures would charge about another $40 or so do to this exact thing that you can do for free!!

This is the one I actually ordered. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1775674-REG/sandisk_professional_sdphg1h_012t_nbaad_12tb_g_drive_project.html It was B&H rather than amazon. It sounded identical other than the B&H specifically said "for Mac" and couldn't find on the amazon one. Plus it was cheaper and tax free. I see it has gone up $25 from when I ordered it Aug 31. Not my normal luck! Including two screens shots: one show partitions, 2nd the info of the external. If need more let me know where/what. Hmm wondering if the APFS is correct. I will wait to hear from you before I do any real back up to it. Thanks! Nancy

You need to get calibrated. Seriously. Mac screens are "cool" out of the box, which makes you edit photos a bit too warm to compensate. Also, do you have a physical set of test prints to hold while you look at your display(s)? Because it's important. Even though you might be a "Digital Files Only" Photographer, there is no way to fully check things unless you have several test prints, from different printing companies; yes, even if you calibrate. When you Calibrate, the Calibration Software will create its own profile (for both displays) and you ignore what Apple gives you by default. That being said, I'd try setting both to "Photography (P3-D65): Designed for typical digital photography workflows using the P3 color space with a D65 white point" and compare your test prints. Hopefully you will be close enough to get you through the time you are saving for a Calibrite Display Pro HL (CCDIS3HL) Calibration Tool. In reality, you are going to have to fiddle and figure out which one to use. D65 may work for you...or not. I'm at D55 which goes against everything Damien teaches, but it makes my screen match my prints, albums AND what I see on screen. See how the test prints come in handy? I like CPQ Professional Imaging. Color Inc Pro Lab & UnitPrints are also decent. Here are some reviews given by our members: Print Lab Reviews. I'd recommend getting test prints from at least 3 labs, just to see who matches the best. I would also AVOID MILLERS. Yes, I know their customer service is amazing...but the truth it, they are DAMN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE to get matching with the current Mac Displays!! Here is a quote from Damien about Millers: Source (opens Facebook.) You also have to take into consideration of things like the paint color on your walls, fabrics around your computer and what color temperature you edit in. My favorite Light to work in is between 4000K-4200K. 3000K is too warm for me and 6500K light bulbs are too blue to my eyes. I think Damien also edits around the 4000K-4200K bulbs as well. See The Light around your Computer for more information. I've also gone as far as to paint my walls a Neutral Gray to kill color casts. In fact, my paint color of choice is: Sherwin-Williams Color #7071 | Gray Screen Now, painting your walls and going to great lengths at this point is a bit overkill. Right now you should be saving for a Calibrator, and getting Test Prints to compare your screen against. For now, try the Photography D65 (if it's available for both screens) and fiddle.

Hi Brian, Hoping I might be able to get some help with my macbook and apple studio display. I've noticed that the preset displays are different and wondering if I need to change these so they are the same or similar? I have apple studio display and a macbook pro m4 max. Out of the box the Macbook is set to apple xdr display (p3-1600 nits) and the display is set to apple display (p3-600 nits) I'm looking into buying a calibrator shortly but wanting to get both screens working together as best as they can in the meantime. What would be the most suitable display preset? Also will I be able to calibrate them to work together? Thank you so much!

Yep, doesn't surprise me.

That's the current version of the HD that I own, though I have heard mixed reviews about the current G-Drives since Sandisk bought them. Regardless, I'd still buy one. Give it a shot. Let me know when you get one, I want to make sure the partition is setup correctly.

Is this a good one? Or do you have a better recommendation? SanDisk Professional 12TB G-Drive Project - External HDD, Thunderbolt 3, USB (10Gbps), 7200RPM Ultrastar Hard Drive, Up to 250MB/s Read - SDPHG1H-012T-NBAAD

I got an update for you @Brian. I went ahead and updated Lightroom to 14.5 and even with the damn 5070 the performance was 💩 I'm not gonna entirely blame Lightroom for it as Windows 11 as it is is now sh!t itself... So I went back to 14.3.1 and see how we move from here. It is in deed really crappy having to put up with all this bull after having spent lots of money on what it is supposed to be a good system. Adobe can go really stick a finger in their belly button...

Glad I asked then! Thanks.

Oh gee, those presets don't exist any more. There are new ones. I've sent you an email.

Hey, it's been a few years since I was here... I just updated my really really really old laptop and I'd love to have the two presets in bridge again that I used at the start of the raw workflow, I think I must have got them from you when I did the raw class all those years ago?? Just though I'd ask if it would it be possible to have them again, to save me making them?

It is indeed only money... worse case, I'll repurpose the beast I got as a gaming system to play retro games and side scrollers on Steam to drop another 4K on a Mac Mini and and a new monitor (which I'm already looking at as it is LOL)... And yes... I do notice a difference in AI performance and Lightroom itself. I can only hope at this point that Windows improves 11's performance from now on. Thanks for the tip of not updating. I think I would like Lr as it is now for a while for the work I do.

Right.i have contacted another company who could tell me straight away which profile they use.

Unfortunately it's not that simple. If you sent me a carton of eggs, a bag of flour, a tub of sugar, a block of butter, etc, you could ask me to bake a cake with it. I'd measure the quantities I needed, and make a delicious cake. But if you sent me those ingredients already mixed together and asked me to pop it in the oven, the cake would be a disaster.

Just to help me understand this a bit better so that I half know what I am talking about when I get back to them. If they receive a PDF with no embedded colour profile wouldn't they just convert it to the profile that they use and then happy days? I'm sure it is not that simple.

*head in hands, sobbing* Yes.

I am looking to get some tri-fold flyers printed. After reading your articles on the subject I went in armed and ready to ask questions. They want the file in a PDF and they want it in CMYK. I asked what specific CMYK profile they use and their response was “If you could save this with no profile that would be great! Once we get the file I can run a sample for you to check over to ensure you are happy with the colour?” Am I better off finding another printing company?

It’s ok I had manual on and it didn’t appear so when I changed it there it was🙈😂

Yeah, Windows 11 does suck, and we are stuck with it. As far as PS, going from 14.5 to 14.6 usually isn't THAT big of a deal, it's when it goes from 14.xx to 15.0 is where the biggest problems occur. From what Adobe has released about the changes to Lightroom 14.5 from 14.4...the one you are most affected is "Generate Previews using GPU." It seems with each and every update Adobe does, relies more and more on having a current (and beefy) Video Card; in fact, I feel it's more important now than the choice of CPU! Which is why you were having such grief with LR. A 3070 can still hold its own with many video games...but Adobe's products? Notsomuch... *Sigh* It's only money, right?

In the same place as always. Under "Optics".

I just updated to the latest (14.5) in hopes it will be better than the 💩 14.4. Auto updates are off and from what I've seen, I'm probably gonna stay there for a while. On a side note... Win 11 sucks 😅 Thank you for all of your help, sir. You are a gentleman and a scholar.

Hi where can I find the chromatic aberration tick box in the updated version of ACR?

You aren't gonna like the price of switching over to a Mac, keep that in mind. Looks like you got the latest and greatest with NVIDIA. That's what I would have gotten if I were in your shoes. Keep in mind, Adobe pushes out crap now that often is buggy. So it might take an update or two for things to settle down. That's why I recommend to turn off any auto-updates from the Adobe Mothership App; this way you can wait a little to see if any issues are reported or patches (update to the update) are released. While I feel it's important to be conservative, you also don't want to get so far out of date that it causes you problems. It's all a balancing act, IMHO. Keep me posted.

If this doesn't make it better... I swear to baby Jesus I'm moving to Mac. I'll be editing tonight and report results tomorrow.