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  1. Today
  2. ok, I've successfully reformatted the thunderbolt drive and it appears on my desktop with the new name. I copied over a couple of .CR2 images successfully - however, I still can't apply a star rating to them in bridge when viewing them on the thunderbolt drive. I can open them in ACR and manually apply a rating there but not in bridge. 😞 I also copied over a .DNG. Same result with star ratings. I'm not sure why some of my files are .CR2 and some .DNG, or if it matters.
  3. Another thing you could try, is lowering the resolution of your camera; lower it from 45MP to 25MP (or even lower) at the higher ISOs. That might help with the noise. In reality, most people only “need” between 16-20MP.
  4. The Canon R5, like the Nikon D850 is around 45MP. Those two cameras need to have the current versions of the lenses you are using, especially zooms. So if you are using an older EF 70-200 with some sort of adapter, and not Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM Z Lens (Black), that could be the source of your issue. Yes, the camera adapter makes lenses technically "work," but if you want the best possible quality, you are forking out more money. This is one of the things that I hate with buying my D850...I had to buy a new 24-70 f/2.8 AND a new 70-200! Even though my older versions of the lenses work perfectly fine with my D4. That stupid camera body costed me so much money. Oh, the reason you are getting better results is the classic Prime vs Zoom thing that's been around forever. Primes will always be sharper and in this case, more-so. Mirrorless Bodies really require Mirrorless Lenses. Noise, just like my D850, the more megapixels, the more noise you are gonna get. My D4 with it's 16MP is light-years ahead of my fancy D850. I hate going above ISO 3200 with my D850, it's worthless. It's only money, right? What I'd do next is rent a RF 70-200 and see how that goes. Right now that lens is $3300, probably due to Tariffs, and I'd hate to see what you'd pay.
  5. Yes, leave it at the default! Select GUID Partition Map!!! The Master Boot Record is for Windows Partitions, which we aren't doing, and the Apple Partition Map is for really old Macs from the 1990's.
  6. Hi Brian! I hate my R5. It's crazy noisy. So was the one I borrowed, so it's clearly my expectations vs camera capability. 😬 However, I'm also having issues with soft images. I did have some sharp images on primes - it appears only to be with my variable focal length lenses, namely the 70-200. Could this be a lens calibration issue, and if so, it's been many, many years since I've had to do that. Any advice, or just Google the process? Thanks Kim
  7. Ok - it asks for a scheme and gives these 3 choices, below. Should I leave as is?
  8. Alright, you are 99% there since you already know about Disk Utility. Just click the "Erase" Button at the top and you should see something like this pop-up: Your name might be different, and that's fine, but the important choice you need to make is for the Format. Simply choose APFS in the choices menu. NO (Encrypted) NO (Case-sensitive) NO (Case-sensitive, Encrypted) None of that. JUST APFS all by itself. Give it a name that is obvious to you, like Thunderbolt 4TB or something along those lines. Then click Erase. After a few seconds you should see your new drive appear on the Mac Desktop. I'd copy over a simple file to your new drive as a read/write test, and when that works, copy over all the images / data files on your existing EHD, the one that has all of the issues. Do not copy the Time Machine Files. Leave them alone. Also, DO NOT MOVE / CLICK AND DRAG!!! I want you to do a "Select All" on that 4TB EHD and then choose "Copy." Open the new 4TB and select "Paste." Do nothing else on your computer. Just let it do it's thing. Bonus Points: Use the new Thunderbolt Drive in the Thunderbolt Port. The difference between the two is if you move / cut / drag files over, you are deleting the source material as it attempts the copy. If something were to go wrong, and you had to cancel the data transfer, you are fucked, to put it bluntly. By doing a Copy / Paste, the original source files stay intact. This way if something were to screw up, you hit cancel and try again. After you are 110% sure that all of your images / data files are on the new drive, we are going to Nuke that existing EHD, and then set it up for Time Machine only. So get your new drive squared away and report back.
  9. Thank you, sir! Hope you're all well on the other side of the world!
  10. Then you're totally fine. Place it, then upsize it. All good.
  11. What are the pixel dimensions of the photo?
  12. Hi Damien! It's been far too long! Last year I took some photos for a friend and she'd like to print this image on a 24 x 36 canvas. I'm following the steps in your tutorial https://www.damiensymonds.net/tut_canvas.html but when I place the image, it's showing up very small. I'm including the jpg conversion with this post. Do I need to upsize this file? If so, is there a class or do you have a post on how to do this? It's been so long Thank you!!!
  13. Ok, all of this is done and I can see the new drive in the disk utility. Here's what I see:
  14. Yesterday
  15. Cool. Since it's a SSD Drive, we will skip the Mac OS Extended (Journaled) Partition Type and head straight to Apple's newest Partition Type, call APFS. The first step we need to do is to check how it's setup and the easiest way it to turn on the HDs to be visible on the desktop: Open the Finder. The easiest way is to click the Smiley Face on your DockBar: Then head to the Finder Menu (Next to the Apple Menu) and select Preferences: Once there put check-marks next to these items and change the bottom to "Macintosh HD" if you want: Finally, Click the Red Circle in the Upper Left Corner to save the new changes and close the Preferences box. Now when you insert an External HD or Camera Memory Card into a Card Reader, they will appear on the Mac Desktop. For example: From there, hook up your new HD on your Mac and right-click and select "Get Info." Post a screenshot. Then we will head to step two.
  16. Oh!!! I guess I didn’t. My bad. I have the level showing in my viewfinder now so I don’t end up with this anymore.
  17. No you didn't.
  18. I did, (you made me, lol) but I didn’t try to clone until after.
  19. Yep, this is why I always tell you that straightening must be the VERY first step in Photoshop.
  20. I'm trying to find a way to clone in detail for this picture so it can crop to a standard size. (it was not straight at all) I've done some cloning, but while it looks ok in color, it looks back in the BW edit (that I already done in class). How can I make this better? I'm doing the cloning after the fact, which I guess could be the problem.
  21. Last week
  22. I have the new drive and I'm ready to format it. It's this one: SanDisk Professional 4TB PRO-G40 SSD. How do I proceed with formatting it? Thanks for your help!
  23. That'll be why I have kept it! I had no recollection of ever working with DNG, but now that you've said it I do seem to have a very vague memory of it. Amazing! Thank you so much! Will have a go tomorrow 😃
  24. https://mbf.cc/3AS69n
  25. DNG is raw.
  26. She loved this darker (room/window) version, soI think this is what we are working towards.
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