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Hi I got the calibrite software working while using my new calibrite display pro hsl, and when comparing my prints to screen, the icc profile is less accurate than just choosing the default srgb profile Never had this problem with the older istudio with the software My moniter is the gigbyte M32Q, windows 11, and i am selecting the custom display to calibrate on the moniter settings, not the srgb display Basically the prints have too much of a magenta cast, on LRC i switched between the custom profile and srgb (using xrite display profile app) and the latter is closer to print "Use windows display calibration" is unticked, and "use my settings for this device" is ticked Posted screenshots to show what i did

It could very well be a sensor issue (repair) that Canon needs to get involved.

Thanks Brian. I did borrow an RF lens (24-70 or whatever the RF is) and still had the same issue. I really did think it was a camera issue but then got some sharp photos on primes. I've never seen any difference in sharpness with primes vs zooms until this camera. The 70-200 is an EF (L). I'll have a play with the lower res and see what it looks like. I'm seeing unreasonable noise at ISO 800, which is super frustrating!

YES. Also yes, but with Jazz Hands. That's what started us down this whole "Rabbit Hole," and I feel that it started with the WD software screwing up and creating things in the wrong parititon. I mean, how would you know that "Case-sensitive, (Journaled)" would cause you so much grief? In reality, ALL of your HDs need to be erased that have the Case-sensitive BS. Fortunately, it only sounds like that WD HD is the culprit and it had your files. In addition, if you had your Time Machine Backup files on it, I wouldn't worry about those either; with it being in the wrong format, those Time Machine files are worthless. Good times, eh? The good news is, you have Backblaze and this time it's saving your butt AND we can start a fresh Time Machine Backup. So get that Thumbdrive squared away and your files restored. Then once that is completed, I want to erase that WD 4TB EHD and re-partition/format it to the correct format. Is that EHD a traditional spinning drive?

Ok I have downloaded a few files from backblaze and I am able to rate them in bridge. So I think I have to order a thumbdrive of my files and replace them with that - after properly reformatting the drive, of course. If I order a drive from backblaze they will mail it to me. I can return the drive once I'm done. It says the drive will be encrypted. Will that matter? Ugh, what a pain all this is! But I appreciate your support!

Ok I have downloaded a few files from backblaze and I am able to rate them in bridge. So I think I have to order a thumbdrive of my files and replace them with that - after properly reformatting the drive, of course. Ugh, what a pain all this is! But I appreciate your support!

Brian - I've removed the WD software. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the problem. I think the issue is in the format of the drive. I can't rate photos copied from the MyBook Drive to the Thunderbolt. But I CAN rate photos copied from the Macintosh HD Pictures folder that I imported there directly from my memory card. Assuming there's no way to change the format of the images without wiping the drive, I'm thinking I need to go to Backblaze and get a backup from there that was done before I got the new MyBook drive. Hopefully those images won't have the wrong formatting. Working on finding that now in backblaze.

WD Discovery Software?!!! Oh FFS... ::: BRIAN SMACKS HEAD AGAINST THE WALL ::: This just got a whole lot more complicated. You do not need any of that crap software that the manufactures include on their drives. Right now I want that WD Discovery software GONE. I will warn you, it's a bit messy and you will need to manually delete files and folders after the un-install. What I think we should do now, is remove all externals from the computer. I don't want anything hooked up, just you and your Mac. Then we are removing that blasted Western Digital Software, as I think it's getting in the way, trying to "help." I found these instructions, here is a screenshot of them: After you complete ALL the steps. REBOOT. The WD Discovery Software is trying to manage your new Thunderbolt Drive, along with all of the other drives on your computer. It is not needed; everything is built into the macOS, like Disk Utility...THAT is the only thing you need to manage hard drives. Get that software removed, and report back. At this point, I'm not worried about Bridge. While we are at it, I'm sure WD Drive Utilities software is also installed. (This is probably where the HD setup got screwed up, with the Case-sensitive Garbage.) So let's REMOVE WD DRIVE UTILITIES as well. BTW: It's not you who I'm frustrated at, it's the blasted Manufacturers. WD has been doing this stuff with their blasted software since the 1990's. It just causes so much grief, configure things incorrectly, and just gets in the way. Partitioning / Formatting a drive isn't that difficult, but they just use this fancy GUI software that is supposed to make you feel better about your purchase. The truth is, their software sucks...and has since I first dealt with in in 1993. So I want ALL Western Digital Software GONE-GONE-GONE. Why do they include it? To cut down on tech support calls / to save them money.

Hi, Brian, Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. I've followed them and restarted the computer. Sadly, it's still not working. Here are some screenshots: 1 - full disk access established for Bridge 2 - this popped up spontaneously. I haven't responded to the pop up. 3 - my time machine is a WD My Book.

Alright, I'm back at my Desk. I want you to try this: Open Preferences (Gear Icon on the Dockbar.) Head to Privacy & Security Select Full Disk Access From there you should see a list of programs that have full disk access. Lightroom / Photoshop might be at the top: We will need to add Bridge CC to this list. Click the + sign towards the bottom, on the left side of the Full Disk Access Column. It will ask you for your logon password, enter it and click Modify Settings. It should open up your Application Folder, find the version of Adobe Bridge Folder that you are using in the list. On my computer, that's Adobe Bridge 2024: Select it, and click "Open." From there, select the actual Bridge 2024 (or whatever version you are using) Program File: Click Open at the bottom; Bridge should now be in the list: Now head back to Privacy & Security, and select, Files & Folders. Make sure Adobe Bridge has Full Disk Access, it should: Click the Red Circle / Close Button at the top of Privacy & Security, and for giggles, restart your computer. Then try ratings again. It should work.

Interesting. Buy it and report back!

This is a 40" MSI being sold at COSTCO for $289 right now on sale. Say IPS and Anti- Glare, UWQHD, 3440 x 1440. Anything say don't do it?

I’m wondering if this is a permissions issue? Hmm. Hang on until I get back home from my day job. we will check what access Bridge has on your HD. If it doesn’t have permission to add to the files, like ratings, you will get a whole lotta nothing. We still need to nuke the Time Machine Drive, that’s a traditional spinning EHD, yes?

ok, I've successfully reformatted the thunderbolt drive and it appears on my desktop with the new name. I copied over a couple of .CR2 images successfully - however, I still can't apply a star rating to them in bridge when viewing them on the thunderbolt drive. I can open them in ACR and manually apply a rating there but not in bridge. 😞 I also copied over a .DNG. Same result with star ratings. I'm not sure why some of my files are .CR2 and some .DNG, or if it matters.

Another thing you could try, is lowering the resolution of your camera; lower it from 45MP to 25MP (or even lower) at the higher ISOs. That might help with the noise. In reality, most people only “need” between 16-20MP.

The Canon R5, like the Nikon D850 is around 45MP. Those two cameras need to have the current versions of the lenses you are using, especially zooms. So if you are using an older EF 70-200 with some sort of adapter, and not Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM Z Lens (Black), that could be the source of your issue. Yes, the camera adapter makes lenses technically "work," but if you want the best possible quality, you are forking out more money. This is one of the things that I hate with buying my D850...I had to buy a new 24-70 f/2.8 AND a new 70-200! Even though my older versions of the lenses work perfectly fine with my D4. That stupid camera body costed me so much money. Oh, the reason you are getting better results is the classic Prime vs Zoom thing that's been around forever. Primes will always be sharper and in this case, more-so. Mirrorless Bodies really require Mirrorless Lenses. Noise, just like my D850, the more megapixels, the more noise you are gonna get. My D4 with it's 16MP is light-years ahead of my fancy D850. I hate going above ISO 3200 with my D850, it's worthless. It's only money, right? What I'd do next is rent a RF 70-200 and see how that goes. Right now that lens is $3300, probably due to Tariffs, and I'd hate to see what you'd pay.

Yes, leave it at the default! Select GUID Partition Map!!! The Master Boot Record is for Windows Partitions, which we aren't doing, and the Apple Partition Map is for really old Macs from the 1990's.

Hi Brian! I hate my R5. It's crazy noisy. So was the one I borrowed, so it's clearly my expectations vs camera capability. 😬 However, I'm also having issues with soft images. I did have some sharp images on primes - it appears only to be with my variable focal length lenses, namely the 70-200. Could this be a lens calibration issue, and if so, it's been many, many years since I've had to do that. Any advice, or just Google the process? Thanks Kim

Ok - it asks for a scheme and gives these 3 choices, below. Should I leave as is?

Alright, you are 99% there since you already know about Disk Utility. Just click the "Erase" Button at the top and you should see something like this pop-up: Your name might be different, and that's fine, but the important choice you need to make is for the Format. Simply choose APFS in the choices menu. NO (Encrypted) NO (Case-sensitive) NO (Case-sensitive, Encrypted) None of that. JUST APFS all by itself. Give it a name that is obvious to you, like Thunderbolt 4TB or something along those lines. Then click Erase. After a few seconds you should see your new drive appear on the Mac Desktop. I'd copy over a simple file to your new drive as a read/write test, and when that works, copy over all the images / data files on your existing EHD, the one that has all of the issues. Do not copy the Time Machine Files. Leave them alone. Also, DO NOT MOVE / CLICK AND DRAG!!! I want you to do a "Select All" on that 4TB EHD and then choose "Copy." Open the new 4TB and select "Paste." Do nothing else on your computer. Just let it do it's thing. Bonus Points: Use the new Thunderbolt Drive in the Thunderbolt Port. The difference between the two is if you move / cut / drag files over, you are deleting the source material as it attempts the copy. If something were to go wrong, and you had to cancel the data transfer, you are fucked, to put it bluntly. By doing a Copy / Paste, the original source files stay intact. This way if something were to screw up, you hit cancel and try again. After you are 110% sure that all of your images / data files are on the new drive, we are going to Nuke that existing EHD, and then set it up for Time Machine only. So get your new drive squared away and report back.

Thank you, sir! Hope you're all well on the other side of the world!

Then you're totally fine. Place it, then upsize it. All good.

5760 x 3840

What are the pixel dimensions of the photo?

Hi Damien! It's been far too long! Last year I took some photos for a friend and she'd like to print this image on a 24 x 36 canvas. I'm following the steps in your tutorial https://www.damiensymonds.net/tut_canvas.html but when I place the image, it's showing up very small. I'm including the jpg conversion with this post. Do I need to upsize this file? If so, is there a class or do you have a post on how to do this? It's been so long Thank you!!!