Gera

Did the update and the issue still is there. For now, disabling on board works.

Safe to assume that I need a new/better card?

I'm pretty sure I did updated, but I'll do it again just in case and report back. Thanks!

Hi Brian,

So, as you may already know, the new Ps update is being stupid. My Ps wasn't working right and I came across a YT video where it suggested disabling the on board graphics and now it is fine (so far). Two questions though. Does the video memory get combined (graphics card + on board) when working on PS? I ask because I have a GT730 card (I know, I'm broke), but apparently the Vega 11 graphics on board of my PC seem to be better.

Am I just better of uninstalling that card and work directly off of on board?

Thank you Damien... Cloning it is! *sigh*

Yes. Here it is.

Wait... that was a different one. Same issue though...

So, is there a possible way this could be fixed with other method than cloning/patching.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I'm sure that is as best as it will get. Thanks Damien!

Hi! I know this isn't the best picture with the best quality, but I need help reducing the double chin. I've tried your handy man method but for some reason I can't get it to where I'm happy with it. Could you please Damien give it a go?

Thanks!

The best way to explain it I guess is to paint using any brush at a set opacity without getting affected when I let go from the mouse button or pen and continue...

Or visually, I don't wan brush strokes to look like in the photo... I'm sure you see the overlapping strokes, I don't want that.

So, what would the proper procedure be?

10 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

If you need a layer to be at exactly 40% opacity, you mask it at 100% then lower the layer opacity. 

And then make another mask on top of it like this?

I do it on anything in general... mainly dodge and burn, but also Nik tools, cloning, etc. I know it is not the most effective way but I don't know any other way LOL

Hi all!

I was wondering if there was a way to turn off the function that when you do a brush stroke say at 40% opacity and if you stroke again after lifting the pen off the tablet it becomes darker. In other words, what can I do so that can do multiple strokes at an opacity less than 100% without being affected?

I hope that made sense. Thanks!

I am to begin printing canvas up to 20x30. A couple of people have mentioned that it would be best to print at 300dip. My concern is if the file is smaller (let's say 4000x2000 per say) would 150dpi be enough for a canvas that large to be printed and look good?

Thanks!

Would the problem be that shooting at f/1.8 is just tough nails? I took some and after checking the images I noticed most of them were front focusing even with the focus point right on the face. 

10 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

Download PSD

OMG @Damien Symonds!!!!

So this is basically the tutorial on the baby with the hat on, right?

Get the gradient --> Mask off whatever it on it's way

I'll give it a try some time this week and post it. Thank you!

By the way... do you know which video am I talking about?

43 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

It'll be really hard, I reckon.

I know... using a large brush is a pain due to the softness and if it gets reduced, de hardness makes it look really bad... ?

Alrigiht. I'll give it a try and keep you posted. Thank you.

And hopefully the clouds too

On 8/22/2018 at 10:23 PM, Damien Symonds said:

Hmmm ... was it this one?  https://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/06/using-gradient-to-fix-sky.html

I'm here! Sorry... It actually was one with a pregnant woman and a cloud you got rid of  close to a hill... or at least that's what I remember. I it was one where you fixed a wrinkle off her dressed... I think.

And yes, Here is a jpg of it. I know my raw processing sucks now... But I basically want to get rid of the lights on the structure and on the bridge. But when I try to clone them out you can imagine the result I get. Thanks!

A1 or continuous = Release priority

A2 or single = Focus priority

Hi!

Is this calibrating software worth it?

I have a D750 and I'm noticing that my focus is not always accurate with my 85mm f/1.8. I also have a Tamron 24-70mm G2 and it seems Ok. Has anyone used it? Am I better off manually calibrating the lenses?

Thank you!

I remember a while a go while I was navigating through the layers class that I came across a video where @Damien Symonds edited out a cloud from the sky but used a gradient to do it. I've search and for my life I can find the video.

Has anyone seen it? Is it still linked here somewhere?

Thank you  in advance!

4 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

I know. I just wish the compression wasn't that much.