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Posts
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Posts posted by Gera
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Hi!
Is this calibrating software worth it?
I have a D750 and I'm noticing that my focus is not always accurate with my 85mm f/1.8. I also have a Tamron 24-70mm G2 and it seems Ok. Has anyone used it? Am I better off manually calibrating the lenses?
Thank you!
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I remember a while a go while I was navigating through the layers class that I came across a video where @Damien Symonds edited out a cloud from the sky but used a gradient to do it. I've search and for my life I can find the video.
Has anyone seen it? Is it still linked here somewhere?
Thank you in advance!
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I came across a reding earlier today. I haven't tried this at home... You know what... nvm... this is got to be FB. The pictures look fine on the PC, I just don't know what on earth is FB doing. Kind of disappointing.
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1 minute ago, Damien Symonds said:
Then you have to live with it, sorry.
Just like the rest of us do.
Just out of curiosity, would dithering have something to do with this?
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14 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:
Hi Gera, have you read this? https://www.damiensymonds.net/art_facebook.html
Are you uploading to a biz page?
Came across it some time ago but just skimmed through it. Will go in detail once I'm home.
No, I'm not posting these in a biz page. So the PNG thingy won't work
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I just noticed that even uploading the picture online gets a little of banding... *sigh*
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Hi.
This has probably been asked before but I just can't understand what on earth am I doing wrong. I've done a couple of photo shoots recently, and when I put the pictures up in facebook, I get horrible, HORRIBLE BANDING. What the heck am I doing wrong?
Here is what I have tried so far (all these are jpeg):
- Exporting as 16bit
- Exporting as 8bit
- Exporting at 2048 pixels (long side in Ps and Lr)
- Exporting at full res
- Exporting at 100 dpi
- Exporting at 300 dpi
*** Exporting as PNG (which gets better results but still it's there).***I work in sRGB***
And yes, I do not see the banding when working in Ps or Lr. It only happens when the Images go to FB! More than likely, I'm definitely doing something wrong, a setting is wrong, or FB compression just sucks bad.
Any help is appreciated.
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1 hour ago, Brian said:
Some video cards will only use one port or the other. If you don't get video on one of the displays, you'll need a video card that supports two displays at the same time. As for which one, either, unless you are viewing things on a 4K screen. Since you have a pair of 1920x1080 screens, I think you should be fine. I'm curious if both displays work at the same time.
The one I currently have is a GT730 I think. It displays the two monitors, one being hdmi and the other vga. Also now that you mention it, fhat explains the color difference.
Thank you!
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Thank you, sir! Now... will it matter if one is hooked with HDMI and another with DVI-D?
You just answered that as I typed on my phone LOL
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Acer H236HL. 2 of them.
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Same computer. The Xrite i1 Pro.
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Is it at all possible to calibrate two monitors at the same time? Or even duplicate the calibeation settings?
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Will there be a noticeable difference when editing in a monitor hooked with VGA compared to HDMI?
Thanks.
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Thank you, sir
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Hello guys,
First of all, I completely understand this is not anywhere close what would Damien consider decent; I do still need help however. I took this very quickly as the sky was getting darker, and soon right after I took it, it started raining
Anyhow, I was wondering how could I possibly fix the waist line on the dress of this lady. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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The colors do seem to match, the brightness is a little weird though. It may be due to the fact that I used this monitor forever in maximum brightness and the chance may be a little drastic for me. According to your instructions, the lines are pretty good. I guess I just have to get used to it this way...
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The very same ones, sir.
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5 hours ago, Brian said:
In order for your camera to lock focus, there needs to be enough contrast swing for it to lock on.
Stupid question... is this because of the body's focusing system or user error?
5 hours ago, Brian said:I'm also not a fan of Tamron lenses. I realize you are probably stuck with it, so I'd rent a D750 and a Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 combo to see the difference between the Tamron & Nikon.
Kind of stuck but not entirely... LOL. I've seen some decent and good shots with this lens. I'm sure once I get more practice I'll get better. Also I need to stick in my head how lighting affects shots and stop expecting everything to be perfect regardless of the light (yes, I know it is stupid).
The reason I don't want to rent anything of a semi to pro range is that I may like it a lot, then create a negative idea of what I have and try to get the gear I rented. I know it will happen like that; I just can't afford anything now. Maybe in a couple months the body and the lens may "go to heaven by accident" and that will give me something better.
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I hope you're right!!!
Thanks!
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I am screwed then. She has her chin up for the other I have...
4 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:It's easy to talk glibly about "taking out the finger"
Well... a man can dream knowing he's taking to a photoshop guru.
Looks like I'm screwed then. She has her chin up and a straight back in the couple other pictures I got. Lesson learned...
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I really feel like renting a higher end body just to see if they act the same.
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On 3/28/2016 at 7:47 AM, Brian said:
RTFM.
I'm sure you mean "read the fabulous manual" or "read the fantastic manual"... right?
By the way, feel free to just tell me the name of the process. I'm usually good figuring out how to change settings as long as I know the "what is it" of it.
Now, I've shooting some more and had the chance to experiment. I did come to a conclusion which will come in the end.
I set up the camera in Focus Priority like you asked. I disabled back button focusing and still was getting wrong focus. I tried AF-S and AF-C with a 9 point cluster and same. It wasn't consistent.
I shoot some pictures at the school I work at, and the lightning is not very convenient. I did not use a flash for safety purposes. I went back to bbf and some pictures did come out good. I was shooting with large apertures (3.2 - 4) and slow shutter speeds (80-100) trying to make the best out of the available light.
Here is the kicker. I noticed that the focus tends to be wrong the most is when the head/face of the subject is smaller than the focus square (if that makes sense). I did large group shoots (22-29 student or even more some times), and I had to stand back a lot because I have a 24-70 on a cropped sensor (D5200), Therefore, the subjects' faces and heads are small in comparison to the focus squares. But when the subject is closer and/or bigger, I have little to no problems, even when BBF is on. I did took some pictures at my brother's marriage; and even when the face would cover the focus point entirely, the focus would be effed up.
School pictures were using the Tamron 24-70. The marriage shots were using the 35mm 1.8 Nikon.
Both situations have little/or poor light, because usually nearly anything that I shoot outdoors (or with a flash sometimes) doesn't have problem...
Thoughts?
Should I send the damn thing to be looked at? Because I highly doubt the lenses are the problem. It is driving me nuts because my wife is experiencing the same with the 35mm and her D5300; which leads me to think that those two bodies' focusing systems are stupid and/or crap...
FoCal software
in Photo Gear & Equipment
Posted
A1 or continuous = Release priority
A2 or single = Focus priority