Crystal Felton

Damien's dust & scratches filter might work for this. 

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/06/the-wonderful-dust-scratches-filter.html

damien is right, you could easily darken your background with levels though

yeah, it's shallow dof, the subject is well away from the background, good light, probably some sharpening, and purple tones in the shadows.

I see...sorry, I'm at work, so I can't view the pin   are there any on her page that have the look you are trying for?  and is this a color thing, or just a texture in the background thing?

have you done your raw processing?  the WB looks off and it looks underexposed.

can you post where you are with your attempt?

can you directly link to her site, instead of a pinterest link?

it doesn't look green to me.  in fact, I would say his skin is a little too cool.  (uncalibrated work monitor, though)

2 minutes ago, Anne Adlington said:

So I should crack a beer and install FastStone?

yes, I believe so

7 minutes ago, Anne Adlington said:

I need a stiff drink. I tried to find that info online. I even called Adobe but they just directed me to their help forum. 

so unhelpful   sorry

You can't use Bridge with Elements 12.  Bridge is for PS, you have Organizer for Elements

Yes, there is a market, but to be a proficient editor, there's lots of time and learning involved.  

You can give him your raw files, just make sure the .xmp is there also

hmm..I'm not sure why one would need an aperture of f/8 to photograph a flat tv?  a lower aperture would allow for a lower iso.  the tv will be on the same focal plane, so a higher aperture isn't necessary.  Additionally, the tv should be pretty bright, and not need a huge iso bump?

is the D7000 a crop?  there is quite a bit of difference in noise handing between lower end models and higher end models.  Check out the D750, it's really great for noise handling.

nice! 

hmm...but you wouldn't want to edit a jpeg...so it's kind of pointless?  you'd save the SOOR as a psd.

she's renaming completely.....and OP, it's not good to have filenames over 16 characters I believe. The labs don't like it.

I can't even wrap my head around this   You only need one jpeg, the finished one uploaded to the cloud

And honestly, renaming files that you don't rename the original raw and tiff's for is a recipe for disaster, lost files, etc.

My thought is to use your d&b method to accentuate her abs a bit, so I guess first..is that the correct method?  And second...how can I better 'see' where the shadow and highlight areas are?  I think I've seen tutorials where they've changed to a black & white layer or something?

where are you installing it from?  a disk?  old download?

you should be able to install it on 2 devices.  What do you mean you can't update it?

these are on sale http://www.adorama.com/searchsite/default.aspx?SearchInfo=wapth451+and+wapth851&sf=Price&emailprice=t&utm_source=RSYS&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=Email021816ProVideo

how much ram?  when was the last time you restarted?

I'm not sure it really matters what one you use.  I have a Bamboo (low end one) and it's been really great.  Of course, I haven't tried the fancier, more expensive ones to compare, but it's miles ahead of using a mouse.

light it properly to begin with is the best way.  Why on earth would you want to do this in post to 1000 images?  I digress.

open a levels layer, choose the white dropper, and click on the darkest 'white' area.  I imagine there's going to be masking involved no matter what though, you're going to have an issue with the top of the box.

yikes.  Damien says you need at least 6mp to enlarge as big as you like, and you don't have that...plus you're going to be cropping even more to get a square=not good.  You could always do your crop, enlarge, sharpen and order a 10x10 or so test print of a 100% crop to see....