JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 I've been using Millers for some time, and I was calibrated for them. I'm switching to Musea (though I'll also be using one other lab for canvas prints). I haven't touched my calibration other than my standard monthly recalibrate, and I received my test prints from Musea yesterday. I have their ICC profile on softproof, and when comparing, theirs is definitely warmer. So, now I need to match my prints, right? I confess, when I first calibrated to Millers, I didn't have to change a single thing, haha. Do I try to do this through the X-rite software, or what? Also, if you use two labs, do you just choose the lab you use the most when calibrating? 1
Damien Symonds Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 17 minutes ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said: I've been using Millers for some time, and I was calibrated for them. I'm switching to Musea (though I'll also be using one other lab for canvas prints). I haven't touched my calibration other than my standard monthly recalibrate, and I received my test prints from Musea yesterday. I have their ICC profile on softproof, and when comparing, theirs is definitely warmer. So, now I need to match my prints, right? I confess, when I first calibrated to Millers, I didn't have to change a single thing, haha. Do I try to do this through the X-rite software, or what? Gee, warmer than Millers? That's really concerning. Millers are already too warm, compared to the international colour standards. Do Musea give any advice about calibration targets on their website? I have to admit I've never heard of Musea before. By the way, please don't use soft-proofing when comparing prints for the purpose of assessing calibration. 1
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 1 hour ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said: I have their ICC profile on softproof, and when comparing, theirs is definitely warmer. Can you explain more what you meant by this? I see Damien touched on it already - you don't use ICC profiles to softproof. Were you using the same method to assess your calibration with Millers? This might account for why your Musea prints seem much warmer.
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 Before I ordered prints, I soft proofed them with their profile, its that where I went wrong? I don't remember how I did it with Miller's, it was ages ago.
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 24 minutes ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said: Before I ordered prints, I soft proofed them with their profile, its that where I went wrong? I don't remember how I did it with Miller's, it was ages ago. Yeah, it might be. How do the prints compare to your screen without softproofing turned on? Also, can you pull your Miller's prints out and see if they still match your monitor without softproofing? 1
Crystal Felton Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 I just got test prints from them also, and I didn't think they were too warm. There was a bit of variation between the paper types...but overall they looked great. @Damien Symonds Musea is a fairly new lab I think, printing on more artistic Hannamuhle papers, instead of standard photo paper.
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 Bah, they're a bit off from Miller's too - I upgraded my PC less than a month ago, so it's a new calibration.
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 13 minutes ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said: Bah, they're a bit off from Miller's too - I upgraded my PC less than a month ago, so it's a new calibration. This might be why your metals seemed overly magenta too! (they looked fine to me) Sounds like you'll need to calibrate again. Do you have the instructions handy for your device?
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 10 minutes ago, Samantha LaRue said: This might be why your metals seemed overly magenta too! (they looked fine to me) Sounds like you'll need to calibrate again. Do you have the instructions handy for your device? That's likely exactly it. I had saved the profile, but maybe ultimately upgrading to Windows 10 did me in somewhere, sigh. I think I should be following this.http://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_i1DP_pc1.html 1
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 Alright then. It's a very overcast/rainy day, still better off waiting till nighttime?
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 Just now, JamieStefankoPhotography said: Alright then. It's a very overcast/rainy day, still better off waiting till nighttime? It shouldn't make a difference if you are able to control the light in your room and there is no light directly hitting your screen. If you're worried about light leaking under the sensor and interfering with your results then you can always drape a light dish cloth over the monitor while the device is taking its readings. 1
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 So of course I did the first step (not even calibrated yet, just set it to 5000K) and it almost matches perfectly, lol. Of course, right?
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 This looks a bit different from the instruction screenshots - I have three values per box.
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 You'd go with the top one. But holy cow! Why is your monitor so bright? There is no way that matches your prints, right?
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 3 minutes ago, Samantha LaRue said: You'd go with the top one. But holy cow! Why is your monitor so bright? There is no way that matches your prints, right? I just reset it to factory defaults, lol. So, it looks completely wonky right now! 1
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 Aaaand this is 6500K. Ooof. Sooooo, skip this and go to method 2? Like, I don't even know, ugh.
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 So...which one matches your prints better? 1
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 With soft proofing off, my current setup using Method 2 looks good, so yay, haha. Wish I had some h+h samples to hand, have to go remedy that, but happy with Musea at least. 2
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 Hooray! Now that Musea matches your monitor, do you still notice a color shift when you softproof?
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 No, more of a matte-ifying effect, likely due to the cotton rag paper. I should test it against that metal print profile from h+h, but I assume I should get test prints back first, right? 1
JamieStefankoPhotography Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 I can say, it does look a bit magenta. So, maybe add some green?
Samantha LaRue Posted January 28, 2016 Posted January 28, 2016 2 hours ago, JamieStefankoPhotography said: I should test it against that metal print profile from h+h, but I assume I should get test prints back first, right? I would just to be safe. 1
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