Missed/Soft Focus

[BrittaneyRodriguez]

I shoot with a Nikon D750 and my images are almost never sharp when shooting more than 1 person or when shooting more than about 10 feet away. I have tried so many things to correct this, but nothing has improved it. I have included images from a shoot I did last night. I usd my Nikkor AF-S 50mm 1.8 lens, F Stop 4+, SS 400-800, and ISO 100. This is the same situation even with my 85mm 1.8; never sharp. The only time I seem to get a sharp image is if I'm no more than 5 feet away from my subject. I was about 10-15 feet away in these images. All firmware for my camera and lenses are up to date. I did a manual calib. on my lenses and they seem to be just fine. I don't know what to do from here.

[Janet Zimmer]

I use a D750 as well.  For more than one person, I typically use an f-stop of at least 5.6  

[BrittaneyRodriguez]

I have used higher F-stops than 4. The bottom image is a single person that I know I locked focus on because my camera won't activate the shutter until focus is acquired. The only thing I can imagine is that I am too far away from her, maybe 15 ft.

[Brian]

1 hour ago, BrittaneyRodriguez said:

The only thing I can imagine is that I am too far away from her, maybe 15 ft.

Yep.

With that much distance between you and your subject, the DoF thing becomes less of an issue. Now the closer you get, the more you'd have to stop down for subjects on different focal planes.

One thing I'd like to check is what Auto Focusing Mode are you primarily using?

AF-A,  AF-S or AF-C?

(Page 121 on from your Camera's Manual)

AF Area Mode, are you using Single Point AF or some other mode? (Page 123 from your Camera's Manual)

Now, this is very important...

I want you to hit your Menu Button and head to the Pencil Icon, which is the Custom Settings Menu. (Page 326 & Page 327 from your Camera's Menu.)

• A1 should be set to FOCUS PRIORITY - Your Camera's setting will either be "Release" or "Focus." YOU WANT FOCUS!
   
• A2 should be set to FOCUS PRIORITY - Your Camera's setting will either be "Release" or "Focus." YOU WANT FOCUS!

I have owned several Nikon cameras over the years, from a Nikon D40 all the way up to a D4s & D850. With my shooting style, I tend to use AF-C AND set both A1 & A2 to Focus Priority. What that does is that it tells the camera to not take a photograph UNLESS it thinks things are in focus. Only if I'm really shooting sports and such, will I set things differently. Even with subjects standing still, I find that AF-C works better for me. That said, the person who I shoot Weddings with, she primarily uses AF-S, so your mileage may vary. Never-ever use AF-A.

Honestly, it doesn't matter if you think your are going to "Miss a Shot" by not having it set to release. You can't deliver an image to the client that you have blown focus on. You are most likely not a Photojournalist of some kind that needs to produce a shot at the exact moment.

Finally, lenses have a minimum focusing distance and believe it or not, a maximum focusing difference. I've found that 15-16 feet is the absolute maximum limit for lenses like the 50mm and 85mm. Even lenses like my 17-55 f/2.8 and 24-70 f/2.8. If the subjects are 15+ feet away, I'm reaching for my 70-200 f/2.8. So you might want to invest in a 70-200 Zoom if you are typically shooting 15+ feet away. Speaking of which, why are you shooting this far away? To leave room on the sides for possible prints? Walk us through your approach.

Edit: PLEASE TELL ME YOU ARE NOT ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO HAVE FALLEN FOR THE STUPID "BACK BUTTON FOCUS" BULLSHIT THAT IS SUPPOSED TO "TAKE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY TO THE NEXT LEVEL! " Back Button Focus is a technique, just like everything else. Not everyone can use it effectively. 

[Brian]

Another thing about focusing systems, and why the "Maximum Focusing Distance" comes into play. In order for a camera to lock focus, it primarily relies on Contrast Swing. Which means it needs something obvious to lock onto that is bright/dark. Some AF Points are stronger than others, and these AF Points are known as "Cross Type." Not all AF points are these type, and those AF Points tend to be weaker. So by you standing 15+ feet away, using an AF Point that isn't a Cross-Type on someone's eyeball...that's a really-really-really tiny area for the camera to lock on, because you are 15 feet away...see where I'm going with this?  

[Damien Symonds]

@BrittaneyRodriguez we can't judge focus like this.  You need to show us 100% crops.

[Brian]

I'd also like to see something photographed with you standing like 5-10 feet away. Something like a coffee can with big letters. Then take a shot from 15 feet away, or where you would normally stand. Then as Damien mentioned, post 100% Crops and we can really judge things. Since you are having the same issue with multiple lenses, I want to first to verify your camera's settings and if those are fine, you might have to send your D750 to Nikon and have it looked at. Nikon D750 and focus problems are common.

[BrittaneyRodriguez]

@Brian Settings: AF-C (I have tried single per suggestions, but it doesn't work well with active children/lifestyle family portraits)

A1 and A2 both set to "Focus", however, I just did a test and for some reason my camera is still releasing the shutter without even attempting to focus....)

I have searched and searched for anything on maximum focus distance, but only come up with information on minimum focusing distance. Thank you for finally answering that! No specific reason why I shot that far away perhaps I was trying to get some of the sun or that just may have been where I happened to be standing when I took the photo.

Back-button-focus.... I tried it and didn't like it so I turned it off, then I gave it a try again las night because whenever I ask for insight on this issue, the main responses that I get besides aperture related ones is that back-button-focus is a must to get sharp images. The only that that really appeals to me is the ease of recomposing vs having to toggle my focus point around. It gets challenging having to move that thing around when photographing moving kids. Suggestions on this are appreciated.

Max focusing distance: This makes perfect sense to me and I have suspected this but haven't found any information to support this, and everyone that I have suggested this to has told me there isn't a max focusing distance... 

@Damien Symonds I included the 100% crops as well as new images at your request taken at 2ft and 10 ft.

[Brian]

You aren’t going to find much...if any, information about "Maximum Focusing Distance," because it’s a Brian-ism, made up by yours truly.

It’s what I have found since I started shooting with SLR cameras in 1986. So it’s more of a personal experience of mine where my lenses started to get “soft” around 15 feet. I really noticed this with my 17-55 f/2.8 lens when I shot with my D300s. So I went testing with a tape measure and sure enough the lens was “fine” around 12-13 feet, “meh” at 14 feet and “soft” around 15-16 feet. You should be able to do the same, all you need is a tripod or something to put the camera on and a 25 foot tape measure. Then someone holding a Dry-Erase Board with the distance written on it.

BBF, while a valid technique, is not the “Second Coming of Christ” that it’s made out to be. Yes, some people will swear by it, others like me can’t use it since I usually poke my eye when I do.  I really think it’s a placebo effect as it makes people slow down and not jamming their finger when pressing the shutter button. You are supposed to exhale and squeeze the shutter button, almost like you are shooting a rifle. Unfortunately, people do the opposite, usually hold their breath and jam the shutter button. 

Now, I think you are looking for “Tack Sharp” as opposed to “Acceptable Sharp.” Virtually all Digital Photos need some sort of sharpening and sharpened to the appropriate size photograph for which they are intended. Damien has a whole “Print Sharpening Class” for this very subject, so I can’t get into too much specifics. 

Now, with your camera releasing without trying to focus seems to be that the little switch on the side of the camera is set to “M” or a switch on the lens is set to Manual. That’s not normal. 

[Brian]

Page 57 in your manual:

Make sure that switch below the release button for the lens mount is set to AF and not M. (Manual.) It's SO easy to bump this switch.   Then press and hold the button in the middle of that switch and look into the viewfinder. Rotate the Rear Command Dial to see what mode you are on. I would check to make sure it's set to AF-F. Or, switch it to AF-S and see if that works better for you.

Also, make sure your switch on the back of the camera is not set to L. It should be on the White Dot. 

The L means to "Lock" the Focus Point Selection.

Now for your two new photos. At 2 & 10 Feet, they look fine in the Focus Dept.

[Brian]

Another thing that just came to my mind, you aren't using a STUPID UV FILTER TO "PROTECT" YOUR LENS? I hope you aren't. If so, take those suckers off and try things again.

[BrittaneyRodriguez]

@Brian @Damien Symonds I am even more frustrated now than when I originally asked my question. My Focus Priority mode isn't working at all. All of my settings are correct. I quadruple checked. I just got off the phone with Nikon after speaking to 2 different techs to try to figure out why the shutter is releasing without acquiring focus despite being in FP mode. Both of them can't seem to comprehend that the problem isn't that my camera isn't focusing, it's that the camera is allowing me to take a picture without focus being achieved FIRST. 

Back to my original question, in your opinion, did I miss focus on my recent session (photos above), was I just too far away, or are my expectations of how sharp they should be unreasonable? My goal is to learn something and improve going forward.

I appreciate all the information that you take the time to share with me. NO FILTERS!

[Brian]

@Damien Symonds would be the best one to judge focus. I'd say they are "salvageable," but I could be wrong. 

 

3 hours ago, BrittaneyRodriguez said:

the problem isn't that my camera isn't focusing, it's that the camera is allowing me to take a picture without focus being achieved FIRST. 

RIGHT.

That's what I think is happening, the camera is taking a shot and regardless if things are locked on or not. I'd hate to say this but I think it's time to send your Nikon D750 into Nikon for repair.  Something could be wrong with the Motherboard or the focusing sensors. Something isn't right. In fact, you should be able to make the lens create a blurry image by rotating the focus ring and then see if the camera tries to lock focus. If it takes it no matter how blurry it is, that's a problem, especially if you told the camera not to, and it sounds like you did.

If you don't want to go that route and just want to get another D750 body, KEH has a D750 Body in "EX+" Condition for about the cost of a D750 Repair. Now, I could be wrong, but I'd estimate around $700-ish for this repair, plus the cost of shipping. It could be slightly more though. Nikon is the only one that fixes Nikon gear as they won't sell parts to 3rd party shops anymore.

You aren't being unreasonable. If I can nail focus of a Groom with his "Ugly Cry Face" when he see's his Bride for the 1st time from 20 feet away, you should be able to get the couple at the park, standing still, in focus from 15 feet away, if there's enough contrast swing.

[Damien Symonds]

3 hours ago, BrittaneyRodriguez said:

Back to my original question, in your opinion, did I miss focus on my recent session (photos above), was I just too far away, or are my expectations of how sharp they should be unreasonable?

You definitely did miss focus, but I agree with Brian.  They are salvageable, just.

[BrittaneyRodriguez]

@Brian @Damien Symonds thank you guys so much for all the advice. I'll send it in to have it assessed and depending on the outcome, possibly look at buying a back up.

[Brian]

With the proper sharpening, you could get away with smaller prints, like 5x7 or 4x6. If you want something larger, like a 16x20 or 16x24, I'd recommend printing on Canvas, which is a bit forgiving in situations like this. You still need to sharpen to the size you are printing, of course...but Canvas gives you a bit of wiggle-room.

Let me know what Nikon says and how much it will cost.

[Entrigo]

Hi, reviving this as probably have a similar issue.

Just picked up a second hand D750 with Tamron SP 24-70 2.8 USD DI VC lens.

Did a few trial shots and I am not at all impressed with the focus/sharpness.

 

See pics. 

Cat pic is taken at 24mm, f2.8, 1/4000, ISO 10000 - cat is about 5 metres away. 
AF-S single point. Focus point on cat's face.

Vase picture is taken at 24mm, f2.8, 1/4000, ISO 8000 - vase is about 5 metres away again. 
AF-S single point. Focus point on top (lilac) vase.

AF selected both on lens and camera, AF1 and AF2 set to focus, no focus lock.

Any ideas/ suggestions? 


 

[Brian]

There's a lot to unpack here.

First things first, how familiar are you in shooting in Manual Mode? Because there is absolutely no reason to be at 1/4000th of a second and be at ISO 8000 to 10,000 for a scene like this. With your ISO at those numbers, your image is going to lose detail and introduce all sorts of noise. Now if you were worried about not having a fast enough shutter speed, I can assure you that 1/500th of a second would be more than plenty. Hell, I'd probably be around 1/250th or 1/320th of a second for these shots. I'd have ISO would have been around 400 for a scene like this, give or take. I also would have been on AF-C (Continuous) and not AF-S (Single) when shooting animals. Honestly, I'm always on AF-C.

Second, if you are new to a full frame camera, you can not simply "f/2.8 all the things" like you could with a crop camera. Since the Full Frame Sensor is physically larger, your Angle of View Changes, which makes you stand in a different area that you normally would stand with a crop body, thereby affecting your Depth of Field. (Distance between subject and camera sensor is different with a Crop Body & Full Frame.) Meaning, f/4 on a FX Camera is similar to f/2.8 on a Crop Camera. You can't just walk around with f/2.8 and shoot all the things, just because you can. I'm at f/4 a lot, and f/3.2 is more forgiving than f/2.8 on a FX camera. The wider the aperture, the higher the chance you have in blowing the shot if you are off by just a little bit. (If you think f/2.8 is bad, try f/1.2! )

Third. Have you downloaded and read the D750 Manual? It's free. You need to change a few things in the Setup Menu, specifically A1 & A2. You want both of those settings set to FOCUS PRIORITY for both AF-S and AF-C. I don't care if you will miss a shot, blown focus is blown focus, and you won't be able to use the photo anyway if the focus is crap.

Turn to Page 326 in your manual:

Followed by Page 327:

>> You want BOTH A1 & A2 set to FOCUS and not Release in the Custom Settings Menu (Pencil Icon.) <<

 

Fourth, just as a forewarning...I am a Nikon OEM Lens Snob. There is a difference between a Nikon AF-S 24-70 f/2.8G or Nikon AF-S 24-70 f/2.8E and a Tamron or Sigma Lens. They are SO CHEAP NOW as to what I paid for mine that I really think you should ditch the Tamron Lens and start saving for a Nikon. Here are two lenses that I recommend:

Nikon 24-70 f/2.8G (I'd get the LN- for $734 if it were me.)

Nikon 24-120 f/4G (I'd get the LN- for $467 if it were me.)

Honestly, the 24-120 is excellent on a D750 and is a perfect walking around lens if you can give up the f/2.8.

Fifth...There is a minimum focusing distance when it comes to lenses and a MAXIMUM focusing distance. I have found that when it comes to a 24-70 lens, the Image Quality really starts to fall apart when the subject is 15 feet or so away, which is around 5 meters. You are using the wrong lens for this scene, and should have a 70-200 attached instead. But those cost money.

So what I would do is play with your camera. Sign up for Kim's Learn to Shoot in Manual (If you feel the need and it's hosted on this website,) then practice some more. I want you to set your camera to M, set the ISO to 400, the Shutter Speed 1/250 and use f/8.

Of course, depending on the lighting conditions, you might have to open up to f/4 or bump up the ISO. I just want you to be at ISO 800 or lower if you can while you are fiddling. Let's give your camera a chance. Plus, I have found that Tamron Lenses like to "Eat" a bit of light.

Once you go above ISO 3200...these large MP cameras just start to fall apart image quality-wise. No 1/4000th for you. Slow that SS down!! You aren't shooting Le Mans or F1 Racing...and even then sport shooters really don't go above a 1/1600th for shutter speed.   I don't think I've ever shot something at 1/4000th. In fact, here is a photo of mine of my son making contact with a baseball against his bat. I was at 1/1600th of a second for his shot:

Making Contact

Looking back, I could have been at 1/2000th for that shot, but it works. Anyway, start fiddling and report back.

[Entrigo]

Hi Brian

Thanks for our exhaustive reply.

To be honest, it dawned on me a little after posting this (I think the writing it out and noticing the graininess in the cropped images helped). I did take a few shots at lower ISO and they are definitely better.

 

It's been a few years since I had a DSLR camera and I am obviously a bit rusty... A1 and A2 I had already changed to Focus the night before, so that's all taken care of. I just need to reacquaint myself with photography and learn to use the D750. I am not much of a "read the manual" person - or at all, but I will need to do it. Or at least watch a few video tutorials on it.

The bit about DoF and FX really helped, as I am indeed new to full frame - my last camera was the D7000, which I sold about 6 years ago. That will be a little learning curve. Tbh I was shooting at max aperture just to test the lens (and I do love a shallow DoF anyway). The real test then will be when my 50mm 1.8g arrives 🤣 - and thanks goodness I went for that over the 1.4g!

In terms of lens - yes, I am totally with you on that. In my previous set up, I only had Nikon lenses, and actually I initially wanted to buy the D750 body and then Nikon 24-70. Then found this at a bargain price (£500) and went for it - the body + Nikon lens would have set me back around £300 more. I want to see if I get back into photography well and proper (I gave up and sold the D7000 as I was a bit annoyed with my lack of "progress" in my pictures). If I am happy with my progress  - and I will do a course or three this time, no more self-taught and trial and error, then I can upgrade. I had anyway read/watched a couple of reviews of the Tamron and it seemed decent. 

Will have to try it out properly and take my time (and especially, not panic - I had also flooded with concerned messages the camera seller haha 🫢)

 

Thanks!

Enrico
 

[Brian]

6 hours ago, Entrigo said:

The real test then will be when my 50mm 1.8g arrives 🤣 - and thanks goodness I went for that over the 1.4g!

Yeah, I HATE-HATE-HATE-HATE THE STUPID F&@K#$G!! NIKON 50MM F/1.4G LENS. That stupid lens caused SO MANY POSTS when I had "Ask Brian" on Facebook. Complete waste of money and I'm a OEM Snob. The 50mm 1.8G is better. Now, at 1.8, your DoF will be thinner than you think; I would seriously mount that lens and shoot everything with it. Fiddle, practice...figure out what it can and won't do. There is about a stop difference between a DX Camera and a FX. Meaning, you buy a f/1.8 lens to be sharp around 2.2. A 1.4 lens is sharp around f/2.0. Used to f/2.8 on a DX? You are going to be at f/4 on a full frame to obtain the same results, DoF-wise. You will find just how bad your lenses are or your technique is, when you shoot wide-open. Holding the camera, breathing correctly, standing correctly, lots of ingredients in the stew of photography will make your images better/worse. It's very much like shooting a rifle or a bow.

Want to make your photos more interesting and "better?" Take photos of more interesting things!!

Duh!

Meaning, get out of your comfort zone, go on a trip. Photograph a subject that you haven't before. Or try creating images of your Cat that could go into a Magazine. Move around implore the 360 Rule. Get Down & Dirty, pick a different angle to shoot your subject. Lay on your belly and photograph your Cat. Give yourself homework assignments; shoot pictures not only using the "Rule of Thirds," but use other composition methods, e.g., Golden Ratio, Leading Lines, Framing / Frame-within-a-Frame, Rhythm & Repetition, C or S Curve, Diagonal Lines, Negative Space, Rectangles & Triangles, etc. (I use this last one A LOT with my Landscapes.) Try telling a "Story" with 6 photographs; this similar to a Cartoon Panel in a Newspaper or think of it like a Storyboard for a Movie.

Now, there is a difference between a pro-grade Nikon Lens and a Tamron. I feel that Tamron lenses add a bit of "Red" to photos, as well as eat a bit of light. Fortunately, with everyone ditching DSLRs for Mirrorless, used Nikkor Lenses are CHEAP on the used market, even for the "Like New-" or "Excellent +" ones being offered. I get that you are a visual person, I am the same way. But reading the setup portion of the manual will help; if you only just go through the settings menu OR figure out what each setting selection does, then you can make your selections based on what you are shooting. Honestly? I shoot in Full Manual 98% of the time, with Aperture Priority making up the remaining 2% if I'm "Running and Gunning" during a Wedding and I need the camera to do some thinking for me.

There are three settings I want you to change on your D750 right now:

1. Set the LCD Brightness:
   Menu Button >> Settings (Wrench Icon) >> Look for Monitor Brightness. SET IT TO -1 OR -2.
   
   The LCD shows you the JPEG PREVIEW that is contained within the Raw File, AND NOT THE RAW IMAGE ITSELF!!! So if you are judging exposure by looking at the LCD, you are going to be disappointed when you view things in LR/PS. In reality, you should learn how to read the Histogram, but people like taking the easy way out and look at the LCD. By lowering the brightness on the LCD will help you with under-exposed images. I'm usually at -1 with my Nikons; one camera body is -2.
    
2. Set the LCD Color Space to sRGB.
   Menu Button >> Photo Shooting Menu (Camera Icon) >> Color Space. SET IT TO SRGB!!!!
    
3. Set the Picture Control to Neutral.
   Menu Button >> Photo Shooting Menu (Camera Icon) >> Picture Control. SET IT TO NEUTRAL!!!
   
   While in the Photo Shooting Menu, it's best to change the Picture Control to Neutral. This way the image on the LCD will not only be in sRGB (see step 2,) the colors will look more like the Raw file when imported into LR/ACR. Camera Manufacturers like to sell cameras, so they will often make the image on the LCD look all sorts of pretty / saturated and bright. This way the potential customer has a "WOW!" factor; this is the same reason what Flat Screen TVs are usually cool / on the blue side...they look better on display at the stores.

That should get you started. I have found that setting my AUTO ISO to max out at 3200 helps a lot, so that when I use that feature, I don't take an image quality hit as I would at ISO 6400 and above. Why is ISO so bad when it wasn't on a lower-end body? It's the amount of Pixels Crammed into the same physical area of the camera sensor. You will have more noise at a higher ISO with a camera that is 45.7MP as opposed to one that is around 16MP. There is just more "room" between the pixels for them to soak up light.

Alright, I've gotta run. Go practice.

[Entrigo]

Hahaha good to know about the 50mm!

 

I have actually now just also bought a 35mm 1.8g ED - refurbished - for £200. Seems too good to be true, as the second cheapest I had found was on eBay at £299 - but will go to collect Saturday and see. So I would have got a 50mm 1.8g and the 35mm 1.8g ED for probably less than I would have bought the Nikon 24-70 2.8 for. All in all, camera (with 30K shutter clicks - button to open the built in flash doesn't work, but I never use it anyway - and can open by using auto if needs be), Tamron 24-70, Nikon 35mm and 50mm for under £800... Not bad.

Anyway, did a few more shots with "normal" ISO and yes, it's definitely sharper.

There's something not quite right in the flower one, whether it's the bokeh being a bit angular or just - as you said - the DoF being too narrow, but I can work on that. And yes, will definitely adjust the display, as I can see they are all slightly under-exposed - especially the cat one, indoor at 500 ISO 1/13 (hand-held but braced against the wall and sofa).

[Brian]

15 hours ago, Entrigo said:

There's something not quite right in the flower one, whether it's the bokeh being a bit angular

That would likely be Chromatic Aberration. Usually it's Purple fringes around something, but it can manifest in different colors. Why does this happen? It's the Lens showing its limitations with HUGE contrast swings. The other likely culprit is that you are trying to do a Macro Shot with a walk-around / street photography lens @ 35mm. Wrong tool for the job. You need to step back about a foot or so, and then crop in post. But your 35mm, & 50mm lenses are fine. I'd recommend a 105VR Macro or a 85mm f/1.8G lens to round out your kit. Otherwise you are buying a 70-200 f/2.8E lens, which is pricey. Remember with Macro, you are stopping down, so you will need to be in bright light, use ISO 4000-ish (which isn't that great with your camera) or have external lights helping you out; when it comes to a Macro Lens, you first learn how to shoot with it at f/8, and will use it mostly between f/11 - f/16. Why? Because of the DoF being so narrow. The closer you get with a Macro Lens, the more you have to stop down to compensate which requires a bright light source to keep your ISO low.

I would NEVER go below 1/60th of a second hand-held when you are 1st starting out. You can push things if you have VR technology, and have good technique. But since you are learning, don't go below 1/60th with either the 35mm or 50mm. In reality, you want 2x's over the focal length, in this case I'd be at 1/125-ish, and if you had a higher MP camera (i.e. 45.7MP) it's 4x's over the focal length for your shutter speed.

You are going to need training material. I know you aren't a big reader and prefer videos, but the problem with videos is they go so fast and you are tempted to pick up your camera right away and go shooting. I started with B&W Film in 1986 and a Darkroom, and I'm still learning 38 years later. Sooner or later I recommend this book:

Understanding Exposure, Fourth Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera -- Bryan Peterson

This book is the standard for beginners and he goes into WHY the things the way they are and what you should be thinking for a particular scene. I'd pick up that book, it's fairly inexpensive and go reading for a weekend, THEN pick up your camera. Let the info soak in, there is A LOT of stuff with cameras and producing good photographs, it's like learning a musical instrument; you simply don't learn a C Major Scale / Major Pentatonic and then expect to be on stage two days later performing in front of people.