Samantha LaRue

2 minutes ago, vbunnell said:

Yes! This is what I thought about doing. I think it looks acceptable, no? Now how can I do that myself? 

I just liquified the cheek to the left, and masked it into place, on a duplicate layer.  (really bad masking, I might add - you'll want to be much more careful lol)

Could you just get rid of that cheek all together? 

(sorry for the weirdness in the photo. I took the close up Damien edited and covered the cheek with some quick/shoddy editing. And then placed it onto the fullsized photo to see how it looked)

10 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

Have you got good bulbs for your room yet?

No they're not!

Your prints are what they are.  They never change.  Either the light you're viewing them in is too warm, or your screen is too cold.

My bad - I worded that poorly in my question.

3 hours ago, Christina Keddie said:

While we're waiting for Damo to wake up -- do you have access to the original print?  It would be best if you could ensure that it was scanned in properly.

If all you have is a digital file -- what are its pixel dimensions?  And it might also help to include a 100% crop of the file so we can see better what you're working with.

And further to that, what do you want to repair exactly? The noise? The very warm tone? Just want to make sure we don't miss anything.

2 hours ago, Molly417 said:

I spoke with millers lab and she gave me their specific calibration numbers for each thing so I re calibrated and sent prints to them and they are going to send me some test shots of non color corrected and color corrected to see if it's straightened out now

Oh no. This is pointless. Especially with Millers.

You need to follow Damien's instructions exactly. And there is no need to order anymore prints. Changing your monitors calibration won't change how things print if you edited them already. 

Can you please take out the first set of prints you were using to calibrate and compare them to the 2nd set you had ordered? And then compare them both to the monitor? I'm curious to know if all the prints are too warm, or if only one set is (and you may have received a bad batch).

Oh boy. Do you happen to have another computer you can test your device on? To see if the problem lies with the video card, or if the device itself has finally given up the ghost? 

Also, have you confirmed that you are running the latest version of the software?

4 minutes ago, Molly417 said:

Ok so I got prints back from after calibrating the monitor and using the spider lite in the room rather than the ceiling light. The skin tones on my monitor are cooler than the print and I am not happy with the colors in the skin tone of the print so what do I need to do to the monitor? I think it looks good on my monitor. On the print it almost has a neon color feel to the skin tone so I feel something must be off in my monitor. 

You need to make your monitor match your print - no matter how ugly it is. 

Once your monitor matches your print, then you can edit your images again - this time with confidence that you will receive a print that looks exactly like your monitor. 

How do the first set of prints you have compare to the new set of prints you've ordered? Do they differ from each other? And do they differ from the monitor in the same way?

1 hour ago, Damien Symonds said:

No you don't.

Your statement implies the assumption that your in-camera white balance is correct.  But that is a false assumption in the majority of cases.

Even if you use a fancy pants expodisc, you still need to check.  It shouldn't be too bad though if they were all taken within the same light - simply sync the white balance settings between all the similarly lit ones. 

47 minutes ago, Damien Symonds said:

This is the easiest:

But if that's too skin-coloured, let me know and we can talk about other options.

I really love this color and want it as real nail polish lol.

1 hour ago, ituck said:

What's the best way to see the mask while drawing it? it's very faint on the luminosity layer (but I might be missing something). I just painted  bit on the white area so you can see what I mean. 

Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your question. What is very faint? 

Also eeek!!: 



You need to do this immediately! - http://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs2.html

And then follow this troubleshooter with a brand new file (raw, if you shoot raw) to make sure it never happens again: http://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html

3 hours ago, Truth Designs said:

Spyder 3 Express.

 

Oh yeah, that's on the bottom rung. Definitely sounds like it may be time for an upgrade if it's giving you issues. The Express series from Spyder is pretty limited in it's functionality (not as bad as the horrid ColorMunki Smile). Here are Damien's current recommendations: http://www.damiensymonds.net/what2buy_cal.html

Are you using a mouse or a Wacom tablet in ACR? have you tried restarting your computer yet? 

And can you please fill out this: http://www.damiensymonds.net/thread1.html

Unfortunately this problem is persisting. AND! While clicking with my brush tool, my AVG got set off and felt the activity in Adobe's temp folder was suspicious. So I'm scanning my computer now. And honestly, I'm at the point where I'm thinking it might be intentional? Or a setting somewhere? Maybe? I'm not sure. If this scan doesn't fix anything, I guess I'll just let it go for now and use the proper tools like you suggested.

15 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

I do intend to write a Channel Mixer class, yes.  But it's not imminent.  I'll be lynched if the Skin Class isn't the next one I write.

*girly squeal*

17 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

I don't know the answer either, but I urge you not to use a brush for this purpose.  Always use the custom shape tool, and find the butterfly in there.

Ooo good idea! I justed wanted something to fill a space until I could buy some clipart or have someone make a doodle for me. lol

I updated PS and haven't had a chance to see if it is persisting yet, guess I better do that.

6 hours ago, Blair58 said:

I just read that Digital Works uses printer profiles for soft proofing. Should I concern myself with this or Just calibrate for the print that I receive from Digital Works.

I have not read much into soft proofing for printing as of yet.

http://www.digitalworks.net.au/owners/Help/hlp_cspace.htm

Don't worry about soft-proofing until after you've calibrated. More info on it here: http://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/03/bit-about-soft-proofing.html

13 hours ago, Hilary said:

 (one of the GTA reps in there recently said something to the effect of not believing in sharpening )

meh, so do a lot of people that don't understand how Damien's method works. Sure, there are a boatload of sharpening actions out there - but his method is quite unique. I wouldn't pay it any mind.

43 minutes ago, Us Plus Love said:

I tried to follow the steps and my document profile in PS says sRGB 8 bit and in ACR it shows on the bottom sRGB 8bit too, but when I open into PS the file names at the top say (RGB/8) something or another.... I know Im not supposed to be in rgb so why do they keep coming up like that? 

The bit at the top is just the color mode - not the color space. Your color modes are usually CMYK or RGB. And within RGB are a couple different color spaces - including sRGB and Adobe RGB. More info on that here:  http://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/11/colour-modes-vs-colour-spaces.html

You're perfectly fine and have done everything right.

Not really a request for help as much as a "Do you see what PS is doing??" and a "Has anyone else noticed this?" I'm off to do my regular troubleshooting, but this was too strange not to share. And if I can fix it, I figure it'd be good to have on the site in case someone else experienced the same. 

So, I'm working on my new website and I decided to make a little icon thingy. Wanted to do a simple cupcake, but I noticed I had a butterfly brush so I decided to use that. I picked a color (nice, peachy pinky-ish color) that matched my site and resized my brush to fill my box. Then I clicked. And the brush didn't appear. Hmm, strange. So I clicked again and an orange butterfly appeared...and then the brush rotated...and well, you can see the rest. Every time I clicked the brush would rotate and/or change size and/or change colors - and sometimes all three because why the hell not? (the color never changed on the swatch either)

Anyways, I'm off to see if resetting my tools works, then to restart PS, and then finally to try updating it. Say a prayer for me, k?

 

3 minutes ago, MandieS said:

Hi Samantha - thanks for your input Just reading all this now! The lenses  I guess are the biggie at the mo & I LOVE my 10 - 22mm so if i go 6D will miss that until I can get a 17 - 40 or whatever. As I'll only have a 50 & 100 until I sell my old gear my next lens would need to be something more multi purpose I think?

Well, the 50 and 100 are a pretty good range to have. With a good wide angle zoom lens, you're pretty much covered. (until you want to move onto crazy telephoto sizes lol)

Can you post one of the images here? (the exact same JPEG that you uploaded) Or provide a link to where you have some that you see this issue with?

I really think you are over stating the "entry level"-ness of the 6d. I think it really just comes down to preference of the user. Maybe renting a couple different bodies would be good for her? To see what she prefers? And plus, shooting landscapes - isn't it preferred to manual focus anyways? I don't think the numbers of focal points really matters much for that? 

As for her glass, I know you've said this before too - spend the money on good glass. If you are going to go over budget or have a limited budget, glass comes first. I think she's more likely to outgrow a "cheap" lens than she is to outgrow the 6d.  Of course, how she spends her budget is up to her, but if she can eek out a few more for the good lens I would do it. Or even hang onto her current camera for just a little bit longer so she can afford the better glass. If she gets the 7dmkii, I feel she is also more likely to outgrow it sooner simply because it's a crop sensor. You can't really appreciate the awesomeness of ultrawide lenses for landscapes on a crop sensor. The look is different.

Anyways, i hope i've given you somethings to think about, @MandieS . I don't usually pop into this section, but I saw my beloved 6d mentioned and I couldn't resist. My biggest regret was getting my 70d - wasted so much money on that. Wish I would have just gotten the 6d first since it isn't that much more expensive. But oh well! Live and learn!

And as for glass, my favorites have been my 35mm for inside, and my 100mmL macro lens for outside. I'd really like a 50mm again just for a little less distortion whenever I do portraits in my studio, but I can live without. If and when you do decide to get either a 50mm or a 35mm, I'd be sure to check out the Sigma Art line of lens. They are about $900 each, but their quality is amazing! And it will save you over the equivalent name brand lens by close to 50%. I do agree with the recommendation to check out KEH too! They have some great sales around black Friday that you'd really benefit from!

 I wouldn't buy an 85mm if you have a 100mm unless you are intending to replace it, or just have money to blow. I am eyeing the 135mm however, because I think the dramatic bokeh you can get with that is a pretty good step over the 100mm. But again, not a necessity.

The other lens I adore is my fish eye. Probably the most expensive lens I own and one of those weird specialty lens that not a lot of folks have a use for or even like. But I adore it. I know it's probably not what you are looking for, but I can never resist telling folks how awesome it is. So here I am - it's awesome. Hehe

And when it comes time to look for an ultrawide angle lens upgrade, I would consider the canon 16-35mm. It's a great landscape lens and one I have my eye on as well. A little pricier at around $1400USD, but it will last you a long time. Good glass will take you a lot further than an expensive camera! 

7 hours ago, MandieS said:

Wow thanks for all the info, wish budget wasn't an issue, 5dmk111 is out of reach ha ha! I was originally thinking between the 6d and 7d mk11 but went away from it, not really sure why?! Will have another look. Worth knowing about the original 24 - 70.

Am I right in thinking for action pics of dogs one of the 70 - 200's would be my best bet? I know the f4 is a fair bit cheaper than the f2..........

The 6d is an awesome camera. I upgraded to that when I ditched my 70d and have been completely satisfied. You'll be using it for a long time. I'm sure by the time you are ready to upgrade again and have out grown it, there will be a new technology out there better than the 5dmkiii.

I don't know why Brian is hating on it so much. I mostly do studio and then pictures of my family out and about. Haven't run into an issue yet! The biggest difference that I am aware of between the 5dmkiii and the 6d are the multiple focus points. The 5d has a bazillion of them that you can use. The 6d really only had the one in the middle that is the most reliable. So if you use multiple focus points often, they would be my only consideration. I don't mind it because I'm not coordinated enough to use them and take a photo in a timely manner lol. I think that's a bit of an acquired skill haha! 

The other consideration would be of course if you shot weddings. The 5dmkiii has dual card slots, one of them being a cf card. Having that built in backup system is something I know a lot of wedding photographers wouldn't want to do without. But since you're a hobbyist, I'm guessing you won't be doing many weddings.

4 hours ago, Tmarch said:

Just wondering if I am going about things the right way here. When I have to resize 20 images or so to specific parameters, my usual method is to create a photoshop document to those parameters and then place the images onto it, then save each out as a copy. Is this workflow ok or should I be resizing the individual images separately (i.e. with an action) ?

4 hours ago, Damien Symonds said:

Not with an action - with Image Processor.  http://www.damiensymonds.net/client-photoshop

You can also use an action with Image Processor if you need to do something besides just resize. Like crop or sharpen.