I would love to learn this technique

[fstoplife]

I think this photo may work, I did do some retouching of her skin, she had some acne I had to clean up

[Damien Symonds]

I hope I don't offend anyone by saying this, but I think race is important here.  Can you choose a sample photo of somebody with a similar complexion to your subject?

[fstoplife]

Not offended at all! The lighting in the second photo is so different anyway, I figured I was going to have to change it.  Is this better?

https://www.facebook.com/paulinaduczmanphotography/photos/a.802067136571350/2071259782985406/?type=3&theater

[Damien Symonds]

My understanding is that eyes are usually enlarged slightly during this kind of editing; so I hope you don't mind that I did that, and a little bit of facial sculpting.

What do you think of this?

[fstoplife]

Not at all! Did you do a blur? I feel like that's throwing me off, I almost think she does a clarity or high pass layer, but I can't figure out what else she does! I know it's some Dodge and Burn too

[SManazis]

What I'll add to what damien has already done  to achieve that look is add a heavier dose of dodge and burn.  The only other 3 things I'd change are:

1.  Cut out the subject and add a textured background. (Of just insert it and mask it in)

2.  On that background I would add a pretty strong vignette

3.  Darken the subject a little and add a little more "matte" effect.

 

my 2 cents.

Edited May 17, 2019 by SManazis

[SManazis]

Would you mind if I played with it a bit?

[fstoplife]

not at all

 

[fstoplife]

Does this work? It took so many steps to get there. I wish there was an easier way to dodge and burn. I feel like it's still missing something

[Damien Symonds]

I need you to take a look at the catchlights in her photos. See how they're smaller, brighter and higher than yours? She has specifically shot for this style. Whereas you have taken a lovely but "regular" photo.

[Guest Fstoplife]

I thought this looked like she was using an umbrella too, the catchlights aren’t that big here. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/paulinaduczmanphotography/photos/a.802067136571350/2072024286242289?type=3&sfns=mo

[Damien Symonds]

That's right.  Again, her light is smaller, higher and brighter than yours.

[Damien Symonds]

@fstoplife, how did you go?  Have you managed to find out what light setup she uses?

[Damien Symonds]

@fstoplife?

[fstoplife]

I haven't. She does teach workshops, so I am assuming that she keeps that info for her attendees only. I've been playing around, I think she dodges and burns a little more, or maybe it is the modifier, but I want to say, I think I see that she uses natural light as well. This is another play I did. I feel like if I dodge/burn a little more, maybe it will look something like that?

[Damien Symonds]

1 minute ago, fstoplife said:

I think I see that she uses natural light as well.

No.  There's nothing natural about her light.

[fstoplife]

This is natural light, see that sharpness, but I don't even want to call it sharpness, there's just something about it, maybe clarity. I've tried using the high pass, but I just can't get that look

[Damien Symonds]

Ok yeah, that's natural light, but it's not just any old natural light.  It's very carefully positioned - still high and small like the others.

And again, not the same race as your subjects.  It matters.

[Damien Symonds]

@Brian, do you have any wisdom about the lighting used for these?

[fstoplife]

I found this site, it looks like she only uses one studio light, some of these look like an umbrella, set at the 12:00 position

https://www.lensculture.com/projects/520181-the-soul-searching

 

If this isn't okay to post, let me know and I can delete it

 

[Brian]

Yeah, I think she is using a small Octa Softbox and probably a Profoto Light. She's not using Alien Bees, that's for sure, that light is too even and consistent. Looks like some sort of umbrella was used by the OP? Wrong Modifier for this look.

This is a Rembrandt Lighting Style, more info here. You should master Loop Lighting, as it's the most flattering for the majority of people. Rembrandt is great for more dramatic shots like this and should be #2 that you master. Actually, you should master all of those 7, but start with loop, Rembrandt, and short lighting. Oh, never "Broad-Light-a-Broad." Broad lighting adds pounds to the subject's face and really only works on skinny people.

[fstoplife]

What about when she uses natural light? 

[Brian]

I’m sure there are reflectors and more likely, white foam boards. Found this article to show you what I mean:

http://weedit.photos/2017/white-foam-core-photography/

The most important thing with these shots is to fiddle and practice. Being aware of how aperture and flash power relate to one another AND how the Inverse Square Law works is essential. 

Huh? 

You need a large window, a better light than a speed light / Alien Bee and a white foam core board. Invest in at least a 5 foot or better yet, 7 foot wide octa softbox. The bigger the modifier, the softer and smoother the effect in the shadows and overall light. Also, practice-practice-practice! You can’t “wing it” with this type of look.

One final thought, you need ROOM. A small area in your basement will just drive you nuts. I’m taking about a room with 10-15 foot ceilings and enough width and depth so the light doesn’t bounce around. Keep in mind that photographers don’t always tell you the whole truth. I’ve know of several photographers who give workshops, tell their students to use Alien Bees and cheap modifiers when they themselves use $2000+ Profoto Lights and fancy/expensive modifiers. So don’t fall for the “She says she only uses a speed light and a 60” umbrella...” statements. Most of the time, they are lying to you.   

[Robert]

Maybe this little photo helps a little bit?