Damien Symonds

Well sure, but why not just edit that sky to give it some punch? This is with a Levels adjustment: If we could achieve something you liked with this photo, then you could just place the tower in.

Yeah, I think you'll really need the originals.

May I see the colour SOORs?

May I ask why you feel you need the trees from the tower photo at all? Is there a particular reason why you don't like the horizon (or the sky, for that matter) from the foreground photo?

Could you post the second one for me? The tower photo, lighter? You already have a good "Tower photo, darker" version, and also the foreground photo is already good I think.

I think it might have to be a three-image composition. One of the foreground photo, one of the tower photo bright enough to match the foreground photo (sacrifice the sky), and one of the tower photo dark enough to keep the sky detail.

I do. Let me see the two separate images.

@Jenny_11?

80 is a fair starting point, yes.

Near the bottom of this page, we're trying the "Different preset" step. Do you still have your piece of paper where you wrote down the readings from your monitor's presets?

How did you go, @cathm?

Middle-ish is best, I think.

Yes, in Module 4 (the "Tour") you'll find the bit about sRGB if you need it. PLEASE don't wait any longer to step up to the Levels and Skin classes. They'll blow your mind.

Outside of class, only this: https://www.damiensymonds.net/workspace-video Don't forget that raw will be set to Adobe RGB by default, so you'll need to change that to sRGB the first time you open a raw file.

Yes, definitely. They've ironed all the bugs out, it should run fine.

You won't have a choice. CC2019 is the one. Or, as you can see, no older than 2017. I'm surprised that is still available, even.

There are lots of ways, of course. Here's a pretty easy one ... Add a blank layer, then use the eyedropper tool to sample some of the yellower skin just under the eye. Add a Solid Color layer of that colour, and change its blend mode to "Screen" (which will immediately make the whole photo quite light). Invert the mask to hide that, then use a very low opacity white brush (eg 3%) to gently paint into those spots.

We'll concentrate on the monitor. Follow the troubleshooting part of my calibration instructions.

If you don't know the exact resolution, that's fine. Just crop it to the dimensions required, without imposing any resolution at all. Will you need to allow some extra for bleed or wrap?

Let's put this nonsense to bed right away. That has NEVER been true. I don't know why this myth still exists. You need to talk directly to the printer, to find out what resolution they require. As you know, it's common for normal printing to be done at 300ppi, but that's far too high for this. It's more likely to be 100ppi or thereabouts.

Which of the two monitors is a closer match to the prints?

Please update, @Jenny_11. How did the recal go?

You've done great, well done.

@cathm, please update me with where we're at. You said your screen still doesn't match your prints. In what way does it differ?

It looks ok from here, but I'll need the 100% crop to tell for sure. ALERT! DANGER! ALERT! You're working in Adobe RGB! That's very very bad. Make sure you click on the link at the bottom of the ACR window to change to sRGB.