Damien Symonds

Hi @Graphical, Let's rule out the obvious stuff first. Have you tried running the calibrator on another computer (either Mac or PC, doesn't matter) to make sure it works there?

You sharpen as explained in the bonus module of the class.

Of course you don't crop during editing (with photobooks OR regular prints). Edit the whole photo at its full size as usual, then only resize and sharpen when you're ready for the book.

https://www.damiensymonds.net/2014/03/how-aggressively-can-i-crop.html

Well yeah, please hurry up with that too.

As long as the focus was perfect, and you don't need to crop them for composition, you'll be fine. But you'll need to be utterly ruthless when culling for focus. If it's remotely soft, it's gone. Now's the time to take the Bridge Class.

Yes, Flow should be 100%.

Or this one? There are a lot of these programs out there.

Not HDR, but certainly some kind of tonemapping. Maybe something like Lucis Pro?

Phew! Good find.

Well I'll be damned. I have no idea, sorry. I'm going to move this thread into Brian's area.

Yeah, you're right, the graph is definitely off. I agree with you. This definitely seems that the screen is faulty.

Are you saying that this problem only occurred after calibrating?

In cases where you can't find any blend modes that you like, you'll need to use Advanced Levels.

What I've found is that you need to vary the blend mode of the Solid Color layers for various purposes. Sometimes "Color", sometimes "Multiply", sometimes "Soft Light" etc.

Yes, I know, I already told you. You do it at 100%, then lower the opacity of the whole layer. Or, in the Masks panel, lower the Density slider of the mask. I need you to tell me exactly what you're trying to achieve with a specific photo.

You need to tell me exactly what you're aiming to achieve, and I'll tell you how to do it.

No, of course not.

If you need a layer to be at exactly 40% opacity, you mask it at 100% then lower the layer opacity.

No, sorry mate, it doesn't work that way. You literally should NEVER be using a brush opacity of 40%. Show me what you're working on.

No, that's not what I meant. I'm talking about the "White Point Targets" section of the troubleshooting.

Ok, great! In that case, have you tried calibrating to different temperature targets, per the troubleshooting part of my instructions?

And can you put your hand on your heart and SWEAR that your room light isn't too yellow?

Is the screen still too cold compared to the prints?

So the screen now matches the prints in terms of brightness?