Damien Symonds

Yeah, I think so.

Hey, slow down, wait until we've finished editing it!

Oh, what bad luck!!!

Ok. Follow the Troubleshooting part of my calibration instructions.

Information about selecting prints here: https://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_starthere.html

Sorry, isn't that what you were asking me? Whether to try the local place?

Can you put your hand on your heart and SWEAR it's not because the light in your room is too yellow/orange? That is the MOST common cause of this problem.

Gosh yes. Definitely get some test prints at the local place.

The thing about editing in sRGB is, it's difficult. It's much easier to edit in a big colour space and pretend that real-world issues like colour blowouts don't exist. But they DO exist of course, and they bite you on the ass when you actually go to output your images, either in print or elsewhere.

ALL work must be done in sRGB. From beginning to end. Any advice to the contrary must be disregarded immediately.

Hi @Raeplunk10, I've moved your post into Brian's forum because he's the expert in this matter. He's the expert in these matters. But I urge you to read the very last paragraph in this article. (Well, read the whole article, but especially the last paragraph.)

Hi Lisa, remind me which calibrator you have?

No, see, this is your problem. You're trying to work this out like it's mathematics. I bet you're a terrible editor! The only "mathematics" that matters is that calibration number. If your screen matches your prints at 65cd/m2 brightness, your room is too dark. It's that simple.

That is SUCH a good question. I've always flattened first, just to be safe.

No. No. You're looking for complexity where none exists. You need a brighter room, that's all. https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

No, that's not it. If you're lower than 80 it means your room light is much too dim.

Gosh ... you calibrated to 65, and yet the screen is still brighter than the prints?

Are you still there, Mr Nikon?

I have emailed you.

Ok, so let's ignore the old screen then. Let's just concentrate on the new screen. Can you describe what is the problem, exactly? In what way does the calibrated screen differ from your prints?

Oh gee Cath, Brian warned you about this!

Posting guidelines

So your prints matched your screen with your old setup?

Hi Julius, How are you judging this, exactly? What calibrator did you use for your old screen? Is it an entirely new computer system, or have you only replaced the screen? Even 600:1 is too high in my opinion. 400:1 is better. Basically, the higher the contrast ratio, the further away from print matching you'll be. And I guess it goes without saying that print matching is the goal of calibration. On that subject, which pro lab are your prints from? And how many prints do you have? The purpose of calibration is to make your screen match your prints. It doesn't matter if you don't like the prints, your screen still has to match them. So if the blacks on screen are lighter than the blacks in print, you need to darken the blacks on screen. However, I urge you to take your light into consideration. Have you read this? I'm so sorry, I haven't used CN since version 4.

You'll need to include the flatting in your action, to be safe. Sorry, I can't answer that here. That information is part of the Sharpening Class.