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Posts posted by Damien Symonds
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SpyderTune
Since you’ve decided that your colour is pretty darn close, but could benefit from some slight tweaking, it’s time to explore the feature which sets the SpyderElite apart from its cheaper siblings:
The SpyderTune screen gives you sliders which allow you to make small adjustments to the colour of your screen:
Those sliders behave similarly (although not identically) to the Temperature and Tint sliders you’re probably familiar with in your raw processing program. So if you have some experience with raw editing, I expect you’ll find these sliders fairly intuitive.
PLEASE DON’T RUSH THIS. Take your time, opening your test print files one at a time, making tweaks to those sliders, then opening the next image to see how it fared, make more tiny tweaks as necessary, and so on. I expect you’ll open all five of your files at least three times each, while you satisfy yourself about your modifications.
I’d love to tell you that you’ll be able to make all five files match their prints exactly. Alas, it won’t happen. Your goal is to find settings that give a tolerable average match across the set. That is the nature of calibration in general.
The other sliders
You’ll see there are two other sliders – “Gamma” and “Brightness“. By clicking the link to come to this page, you’ve already decided that your brightness was ok, so I hope you won’t need to touch that slider. However, some tiny tweaks to the Gamma slider might be ok, if you find it essential. Not too much, though!
The buttons
If you’ve moved the sliders too much, and made a mess, that’s not a problem. Just hit the “Reset” button and start over. Don’t worry, it won’t undo your whole calibration, just these SpyderTune sliders.
Once you’re happy that the sliders are perfect, press the “Save Adjustments” button to embed those tweaks in the monitor profile. Then press the “Next” button to complete the process.
Finish >>
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Write down your settings
Next month, when you launch the Spyder software to recalibrate, it should remember the settings you used. But never take that for granted. I strongly recommend writing down your settings (eg Do Not Adjust and 80, or whatever) so you can refer to it next month.
You're done!
That's calibration taken care of for this month. Press "Quit":
You can get on with editing your images. Next month you can go to the beginning of my instructions then jump straight ahead to the recalibration instructions. Recalibration is fast and easy, I promise.
Did I help?
If you've found these instructions useful, you might feel like buying me a beer. There's a blue "Donate" button at the very bottom of this page.
However, beer is not good for me, and buying me beer is certainly not good for you. Instead, I hope you'll consider my editing classes. They'll rock your world, I promise.
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Successful calibration!
Hooray! Your job is done. Press “Next” …
… and you’ll come to the final screen:
This screen is fun for curiosity’s sake, but has no particular importance. You can see my Asus shows 99% of the sRGB gamut, which is nice. You can compare your screen's gamut with Adobe RGB and other outrageous colour profiles. None of it really matters - only the print matching matters.
However, if you're curious to see even more information about your profile, I recommend this.
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How is your calibration?
Choose the option which best describes your result:
- The brightness and colour are both perfect. A great calibration result.
- The brightness is really darn close to perfect. I can definitely live with it. And the colour is perfect.
- The brightness is perfect, or close enough to perfect for me. The colour is almost perfect, but I would love it if it was a tiny bit better.
- The brightness seems quite good, but the colour is not. It’s noticeably colder/warmer than the prints.
- The brightness isn’t right. It’s darker/brighter than the prints. But the colour, as far as I can tell, seems fine.
- It's all wrong. The brightness isn’t right. It’s darker/brighter than the prints. And the colour doesn’t look right either, it’s colder/warmer than the prints.
- This is my third or fourth time round to this damn page. I’ve tried everything you’ve suggested, and it’s still not looking right.
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Analysis
Here, Datacolor gives us a grid of images to assess the calibration. It’s a completely pointless grid, because we don’t have those prints, do we? To assess the calibration, we need images that we can compare to prints. So immediately press the “Open Custom” button ...
… and one at a time, you can open their files and compare the screen to the prints. Here are a couple of examples of photos I used:
I wish there was a way to flick between your five files more quickly – unfortunately, I haven’t found one. So allow a few minutes to go through all your files a few times, while holding their corresponding prints out to the side, and assess the result of the calibration. Don’t rush this part – take your time.
I have found, however, that you can drag-and-drop your image files from their folder onto the Spyder screen, which does speed things up a bit.
Note 1:
Remember that if any of your photos have extremely vivid colours in them (eg a bright turquoise dress, or a glowing orange sunset) those colours might be unprintable, and should be ignored when assessing calibration. Concentrate on the “normal/everyday” range of colours instead.
Note 2:
On the right-hand side of the screen, make sure the switch remains on "Calibrated":
Don't bother turning this off and on, it's meaningless.
Note 3:
Full screen mode is useful to get a bigger view of your images.
Dark mode is about equally as useless as the default white mode. What we really need is a Medium Grey mode. But since Dark Mode is more similar to the modern Photoshop interface, you might prefer to use it.
Note 4:
If you want, you can ignore this whole screen, and instead view your photos in Photoshop or Bridge.
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Name and save the profile
Naming convention is up to you, but I strongly advise naming it with the White Point and Brightness targets you used, and the month.
In this example, my White Point target was "Do Not Adjust" and my Brightness Target was 80. And it's February. Therefore, my profile name is "DoNotAdjust-80-Feb24". If your targets are different for whatever reason, name your profile appropriately. Then press the red "Save" button.
Recalibration reminder
Once a month is the usual time period for calibration. If you are particularly geeky about colour (or if you suspect your screen is dying) choose a shorter period. If you are a very casual photographer, you might prefer six-monthly.
Press "Next".
Analysis >>
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Profiling
Your screen will flash through a range of tones while the Spyder builds your monitor profile.
And then it will tell you it's finished.
Press "Finish".
Lights up
Turn your lights back on, or open the blinds, or whatever.
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Lights out
At this point, if you haven’t already, turn off the lights or pull the blinds, or whatever. You don’t need your calibration compromised by light sneaking in, so for your safest result, make your room as dark as possible.
Place the Spyder
Lengthen the cord, unclip the cover, then position the device as instructed:
Press "Continue".
Brightness
Your screen will change colours for a few seconds, then stop here:
Do as it says. Flick to your settings window where your brightness slider is, and crank it all the way to maximum, then flick back and press "Continue".
(If you don't know how to flick, watch this video.)
A window of instructions will pop up. Read it if you need to, then press OK.
Then adjust your brightness slider back down, while watching the readings, to get as close as you can to the target:
(You'll notice that I wasn't able to hit the target exactly. I was aiming for 80, and the best I could do was 79. That's completely okay. Just get as close as you can.)
Then press "Continue" again.
Profiling >>
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Calibration Settings
At the left, make sure it's on "FullCAL".
Then turn your attention to the hub of the whole calibration operation:
- "Gamma" can remain at 2.2, which is the worldwide standard.
- Change the "White Point" to "Do Not Adjust".
- Set the "Brightness" target to 80.
- Turn "Room Light" off.
- Set "Gray Balance Calibration" to "Better" unless you're in a dreadful hurry.
Then press the red "Next" button in the bottom right corner.
Brightness >>
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Display setup
The next screen is divided into three parts, all of which are very important.
1. The display
Because you're reading these instructions, I know you need to choose the second option - "All-in-one/Laptop".
2. Display Technology
This step is really important, so read the info and make your decision wisely. I would say that the majority of screens out there in the world are Standard LED (mine is), but yours might be Wide LED.
If you need help in deciding what technology your screen has, please comment below and I'll try to help out.
3. Identify Controls
Your screen only has brightness control, so that's the one you tick.
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The welcome screens
The first time you launch you'll get this screen:
We've already done all that stuff, so you can hit the red "Continue" button.
Next you'll see this screen:
Make sure it's on "Calibration" and hit "Next".
Then on this screen make sure it's on "Display Calibration" ...
... and hit "Next" again.
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I assume a combination of channel mixer and https://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/01/ridding-pesky-rainbows.html
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I'd say the flare can be fixed.
Her face can be improved, but I doubt the haze can be removed altogether.
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Install software
When you open the box the first thing you see is a notice to visit the DataColor website to download the software.
Hit the "Windows Software" or "MacOS Software" button to download the program, and go ahead and install it.
I don’t anticipate you’ll run into any problems during this process. You’ll be guided through download and installation, and then when you plug in the device and launch the program, you'll be prompted to enter the serial number and activate the software.
There's a video here to help you if you need it.
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Check your lab’s website in case there are specific calibration instructions
This is quite rare, but it’s a good idea to check. You see, almost all labs adhere very sensibly to the modern calibration temperature standard of 6500K (sometimes also called “D65“). Sadly, however, there are some labs out there which still stubbornly cling to the 1990s standards of 5000K/D50 or 5500K/D55. Millers, Mpix and Bay Photo are most notorious for this foolish setting.
So, check your lab’s website to see if they give specific advice in this regard. Most labs won’t mention it at all; in which case you can assume 6500K. Some labs will specifically say 6500K, which is great. If you happen to find that your lab specifies a different temperature, consider switching labs in the future, but for now, write down the number they advise. We’ll need it later.
You might be wondering why this matters. It matters because if your lab forces you to calibrate your screen to a too-warm colour temperature, it means that when you’re browsing the web, everyone else’s photos will look too warm to you, and your photos will look too cold to everyone else. Not good. 6500K is the web colour standard, and since the web rules the world, it is unavoidably the photography standard too. Most labs get this – Millers, Mpix and Bay do not.
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Screen setup
Warm up
Make sure your screen has been turned on for at least half an hour before starting this process.
Light
Make sure you’re in good light. Viewing prints in dim light is a futile exercise. It needs to be bright enough, and white enough. Read this if you haven’t already done so.
Open Brightness controller
Open your Display window to access the slider for your screen's brightness. Don't adjust it yet, just keep it open for later.
True Tone off
Apple users, if your options include a "True Tone" setting, make sure you turn it off.
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Been here before?
If this is your first time running your Spyder using my instructions, keep reading. I’ll guide you through the process step-by-step.
If you have successfully calibrated using my instructions in the past, and are here for a quick refresher about the monthly recalibration process, go straight to the Recalibration page.
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This tutorial will guide you step-by-step through the calibration process. I hope you'll find it easy to follow. If you'd like to sign in (it's completely free to create an account, don't worry) you are welcome to ask questions on any of the slides if you need more information or help.
Important!
Do not commence calibration unless you have pro lab prints sitting beside you, ready for comparison afterwards.
Calibration without print comparison is not calibration at all.
And remember, home prints are not sufficient. They MUST be pro lab prints.
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Spyder X2 Elite calibration tutorial – Macs & laptops
This tutorial discusses using the Spyder X2 Elite to calibrate screens which have no adjustability other than their brightness. This includes all Mac screens, and all laptops. It might also include cheap desktop screens with no buttons or menus to control their colour; and the new breed of all-in-one PCs that try to look like Macs.
To the best of my knowledge, these instructions also work for the Spyder X2 Ultra.
Before you begin, please make sure you’ve read this article.
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Ctrl F for the Find function.
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To line up, do you mean?
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Soft-proofing is explained here: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2010/03/bit-about-soft-proofing.html
But as I said, you can't do it yet, because you haven't calibrated. So I urge you to put it out of your mind for now.
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4 hours ago, Françoise B said:
- Do I now order images as I see them on the not correctly calibrated monitor
Yes.
4 hours ago, Françoise B said:but with the embedded ICC profile from the lab?
HELL NO. Your files must always remain in sRGB.
4 hours ago, Françoise B said:- Since I have to order prints anyway, is matte, semi-gloss or glossy the easiest for comparison with the post-calibrated monitor?
Semi-gloss. Sometimes also called Lustre.
4 hours ago, Françoise B said:Problem 2
It is incredibly difficult to find a professional lab in Switzerland with a good professional offer. The lab that meets most of the requirements of the print guidelines is Saal Digital.ch but has the following deviation (see screenshot):
1) Color temperature 5000K (D50) (although this corresponds exactly to the light in my workroom). Can I still use this provider?2) Will I then also have to calibrate my screen to 5000K?
Oh, this is SO regrettable
If you use this lab, and are successful in calibrating your screen to match their prints, you need to accept that your online photos will look too blue to everyone else. This is not the greatest tragedy in the world, but it's not ideal.
4 hours ago, Françoise B said:Soft-proofing can only be done AFTER you are successfully calibrated. You must ignore this part for now.
SX2E-18
in Calibration instructions
Posted
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Colour not right
I know I’ve said this before, but I have to hammer it home again. NEVER underestimate the effect your surrounding light has on the way your photos appear. You’re on this page because your screen and prints differ in colour. Before proceeding, I need you to make a frank appraisal of the light in your room. If it’s too yellow (which is the most common problem) it will make your prints appear yellow, and therefore cause you to conclude that your screen’s calibration is too cold.
If you think, or even suspect, that your light is the culprit, take steps to rectify it. Get whiter bulbs if you can, or at least try assessing your prints in daylight. I would hate to be wasting your time with all of these calibration adjustments if the calibration wasn’t actually the problem.
If you’re sure the light is ok, read on …
Let’s try again.
At the top of the screen hit "4. Settings" ...
... to come back to this screen:
We're here to correct the colour, so it's time to choose a different white point target from this menu:
What setting to choose
Once you’ve chosen your new target, press “Next“ and continue with the new calibration.
Follow the instructions again >>