Brian

I SAID TO COPY THE FILES!!! NOT "CUT." THE REASON IS, YOU ARE DELETING THE SOURCE MATERIAL WHEN YOU "CUT." IF SOMETHING WERE TO HAPPEN DURING THE DATA TRANSFER, YOU COULD LOSE EVERY FILE. Copying the files keeps the source intact, so if something screws up, you can try copying again. At this point, I'm thinking you might want to reach out to Gillware Data Recovery Services. The drive inside could be fine, but Western Digital uses the cheapest USB interfaces / enclousres and that's where the problem could lie. I'd send the EHD to them and get a quote, especially if the images are that important.

YIPPPEEEEE!!! There is hope. Phew!! I love it when I am wrong in situations like this. First, let's try something simple, like those .jpg files and two .pdf files that I see in your screen shot. Copy them over. Do not drag / cut the files. Copy only. Then paste. If that works, then we step things up to the next level by trying to copy the folders that you can not live without. Copy / Paste these folders over to the new EHD. Then let your computer run overnight. Hopefully things will work. This will probably be slow, just let it run.

Check this thread, I just answered this question after yours

Well it seems that the MacBook Pros have actually come down in price!! Granted, they still are expensive, but it's not $4600 anymore. I've done the whole Wedding Photog thing...I don't miss shooting Weddings. That said, time is money. A Mac from 2017 is a bit long in the tooth. I hate Apple's new Website Design, but here is what I would buy: I'd choose a 16 Inch Black MBP, to cut down on color casts, but you can pick silver. Up to you. YOU WANT A STANDARD DISPLAY!! DO NOT PICK THE NANO-TEXTURED VERSION. The M5 Pro Chip is fine. RAM...I'd get 64GB since there is no upgrading after the fact. Plus the Memory is shared with the video card, so it's best to get 64GB. Hard Drive: 1TB is still viable for 2026. Chances are you will be working off a Thunderbolt External HD. I just can't stomach paying an additional $400 to bump it up to 2TB. Yes or No to the additional software options, I'd pick "No" for both. Purchase out-right or finance, up to you. Purchase AppleCare!!! Things are different in 2026, you will need to make a subscription choice. If you are only buying a MBP, than the $14.99 until cancelled is probably a good fit. If you are planning on buying a Mac Studio Display, and a Mac Studio Desktop, then the $19.99 is the one to get. Either way, get AppleCare!! You can always cancel the AppleCare after about 3 years or so. So that's what I would buy if I were in your situation. It's pretty much the modern equivalents to the older WTB Mac Laptop Article.

Apple, like Nikon...controls the prices. It's going to be the same wherever you buy. Now to keep an eye out for the status of new Mac products, the website that I've been reading for years is MacRumors.com. They are the absolute best at reporting all things Macintosh. Now for that waiting game. All the insane things that's happening with the stupid AI Data Center Crap, and is affecting ALL of the manufactures. Even Apple. I'm thinking it's going to be sometime in 2027 before we see a M5 Mac Studio. My guess is late 2027 or even early 2028. But I could be wrong, but with weeks of delay configuring a new Mac from Apple's website has me concerned. Now is not the time to be in the market for a new computer.

Yep! No Web Browsing, No Netflix, No Facebook, No E-mail. Sorry you had to learn this the hard ware. Often, it's paid software that does a better job. That said, it is a real PITA to recover files on a Mac. I accidentally deleted the wrong folder in 2009, and I never got 100% back. What concerns me, is WHY your HD failed. Data corruption is one thing, but if there is physically something wrong below the surface, that's another. The more you "Dork" around with the HD, the worse things get, and I'm very concerned about it not mounting correctly. What I would do, and the software that I default to, is Photorecovery Professional by LC Technology. This company is the ORIGINAL Data Recovery for flash based media, from the late 1990's. It's the software that Sandisk Uses / Includes with their higher-end products. What I would do, is first install the Recovery Software on the Mac that worked the last / best with your HD, then after it's installed / running, hook up the external HD that's bad. Hopefully it will mount. Now, part 2... I would HIGHLY-HIGHLY-HIGHLY ADVISE YOU TO PURCHASE A NEW EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE. Not only to potentially replace the failing HD, but you will need a clean HD to restore the recovered images to, and it makes things WAY easier. The reason? Data Recovery isn't always clean. The software finds the bits and pieces and tries to assemble things. Think of putting together a 1000 piece Jigsaw Puzzle without a photo for reference. You could have 65 different files for the same single Raw File or .psd. Again, Data Recovery on a Mac is not pretty and I speak from experience. Now, my viewpoint is a bit dated, since I last did something like this in 2010 and software has improved. Still, I want you to purchase the Recovery Software and a new EHD. Before you dive into this, drop me a note in this thread and I want to make sure that your new External HD is setup correctly. Often manufacturers will create a Partition called exFAT, which is a file format that works with both Windows and Mac. Sounds like a good thing, eh? But it's not...in fact, it's DEAD WRONG. You see, exFAT is one of those things that Microsoft Invented a long time ago, it was almost like a "Garage Project." They never made it mainstream. They still use NTFS, and the macOS uses their own file system. exFAT is unpredictable at best, and is easily corruptible without warning. To make matters worse, you might have to send out your EHD to a place for forensic recovery, as regular recovery software doesn't always work with exFAT. Plus, forensic data-recovery isn't cheap. exFAT is meant for people that have triple backups of everything, and are Advanced Users / Techno-Weenies like me. But even * I * do not use exFAT. Of course, Manufactures use it, because it's free and makes the masses easily hook up to the EHDs. Drives me nuts because the common user has no idea of how unpredictable exFAT is. In reality...you need to pick a format, Macintosh --> OR <-- Windows. None of this going back-and-forth stuff, at least not without a whole other backup. So when you get a new HD, hit me up and we will make sure it's setup correctly. While we are at it, I want to use Disk Utility and see how the failing WD EHD is setup. Hopefully it will mount. I'm 99.9999% sure it's exFAT, which complicates things. If it isn't, and it's something like Mac OS Extended (Journaled) that gives me hope. Report back.

Yes it is! Especially in Canada. While I like for the video cards to be at least a RTX 5070, in a Laptop configuration and the current prices of things, I'd say the rest of the specs work out. I would, however...use the NVIDIA Studio Drivers instead of the default General Computing / Gaming Drivers. The Studio Drivers (Drivers is software that tells hardware how to work,) are meant for Adobe's products, like Photoshop. Enjoy your purchase.

The current Mac Studio is still decent in 2026, but personally...I'm waiting for the refresh that has a M5 Chip. Apple really has changed their website, but my previous WTB Article still applies. Here are some screen-shots: Between a Mac Studio and a Mac Mini, I'm going to lean towards the Mac Studio. If you want to wait until the M5 hits a Mac Studio, you are probably going to wait until late this year or a better prediction...this time next year. Things are in such turmoil with all this MicroSlop / AI / Data Center Crap, that things like Memory and HD storage chips are at a premium and are very scarce. In fact, when I tried to configure a tricked-out Mac Mini, it was a 12-16 week delay! Oh, don't forget to add a Macintosh Studio Display for $1600, whatever you buy. So since 2026 is completely fucked technology-wise, I'm really not sure what to tell you. I would just keep saving at this point and be prepared to jump on any deals. That said, Apple controls the prices, so I wouldn't hold out for any "deals." Just be ready to buy when the time comes. As to what I recommend, it will be the Mac Studio.

Keep in mind, RAID1 (Mirrored) is just redundancy. If the file is corrupted on the 1st drive, it is instantly corrupted on the 2nd HD in the RAID1 configuration. Sometimes it's a fluke, other times it could be something like a bad sector on one of the HDs, in which case things can get botched up, as the data is mirrored. Keep an eye on things. Once...OK...things happen. But if you find multiple images giving you grief? Something is wrong with one of those HDs! Again, RAID allows for tolerance in keeping you up and running for as long as possible, so you can get to your data; RAID is not a backup strategy!! How you choose to back up your data, is really a personal thing. In reality, before going nuts with backup strategies, it is more important to have a file/directory/folder structure that makes sense to you. This way you can avoid triplicates all over the place and you can find things quickly in the event of a disaster. Secondly, testing your backups is imperative. I can't tell you how many times I've performed resurrections and voodoo chants with my Customer's Servers, only to find out that several backup tapes are no good and they haven't had a good backup in MONTHS. Then their main HD dies and I can only restore the backup from 11 months ago, the recent stuff has to be inputted in, by hand, all over again. So the first thing I would do, is to get your file structure files/folders straightened out, THEN purchase a larger external HD, like a 8TB (or even larger) to copy stuff to. One big data-dump. Use that as your "Workbench" to see how easy it is to navigate to, pretend your main HDs and Server was in a flood or fire. If you can figure out what is where within seconds, THEN you can pay attention to the Cloud Stuff and folders on your Server. Keep things simple. It doesn't do you any good not knowing what is and what isn't backed up when things go horribly wrong. Yes, this is going to be a PITA and a huge time-suck, but you are wasting time when things are working, rather than doing it the other way around, which is not fun at all. I speak from experience. Offsite Backup is imperative, Home Server is another, and having external access to that server helps. Always remember, the Cloud is "Someone else's Computer," and OneDrive isn't fool-proof. In fact, NONE of them are and I would always remain skeptical of these services. TRUST NO ONE!! Always read the fine-print with Cloud Storage. I do not care how great a service claims to be, again...read the fine-print. That's why I recommend having a simple external HD to duplicate you main backups and then that EHD is stored off-site somewhere. For long-term storage, I recommend spinning traditional hard drives and not fancy SSD Drives for this. Why? Because Flash Media breaks down over time if the drive isn't powered on at least monthly. Digital Rot is a very real thing and a Traditional HD stores things magnetically, and lasts for years. SSD Drives? Notsomuch. Especially if you don't hook them up for a few years...the data goes "Poof." So fiddle around with things. Figure out a Directory / Folder Tree. You need to be able to find something within 30 seconds at all times, that's the goal. In fact, it needs to be as logical as possible, in the event that someone else needs to find things if you aren't around to do it for them. Do a data dump to a large EHD, then see how easy it is to get to your files, even using another person's computer.

That one checks all the boxes. I do recommend NVIDIA’s Studio Driver over the default one that’s meant for video games / general computing. The Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe’s products.

What are you actually editing on? A Server of some kind or an actual workstation? Having a quality P/S is a good thing, but choosing the right Video Card AND using the Drivers that Adobe's Products like, such as the NVIDIA Studio Driver - Windows 11, along with having enough RAM is key. Don't forget having a decent cooling setup; Water-Cooled might be a better choice for you than an Air-Based only system. Video Cards that I recommend currently are still NVIDIA's products, usually a RTX 5070 with 12GB VRAM at a Minimum, and if you can swing something like a NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 5080 16GB GDDR7 Graphics Card - Gun Metal, even better. Especially with Large Panos...which I also do and can totally relate; I often have to divide photos into 3rds and process each separately, then combine them at the end. Otherwise, my system crashes or the fans sound like a Jet taking off. RAM, that's another thing you are going to consider. Unfortunately, with all of the AI Slop and products being diverted to Data Centers, which haven't been built, are driving up the cost. For your needs, I'd look at least getting 96GB of DDR5 EEC RAM, or more. Also, you will need a motherboard that supports ECC. So there's that. CPU? I always used to recommend Intel's Chips, but Intel is being stupid and the latest chips have a flaw, which causes them to short out. Intel says they have released a Motheboard / BIOS Patch, which should take care of the issue, but Chips are still dying and Intel isn't Warranting them. So currently, AMD seems to be a better bet at this point. For your needs, I'd probably recommend a Ryzen 9 9900X/9950X. Power Supply? Yes, you want quality. 850 Watts is the minimum I'd recommend, and I'm going to tell you to invest in a 1000 Watt "Platinum" Power Supply. Here is a Montech Century II 1050W Power Supply. I've also had good luck with EVGA Power Supplies, but I've also seen bad reviews with Customer Service Experience. Of course, you need to take things with a "Grain of Salt," Power Supplies work or they don't and after a period of time, manufacturers will usually tell you to "Pound Sand." Now there is one more thing you need to worry about!!! The Electrical Line Conditioning on the power itself. I highly recommend APC's UPS Sine-Wave products. There is absolutely no sense in building a $5000 Computer, only to use a el-cheapo power strip that's 10 years old purchased from a Big-Box Store. THAT'S JUST STUPID. Here is my UPS that I purchased a few years ago, and is currently sitting at my feet as I type this: APC UPS Back-UPS Pro 1500VA Sinewave UPS, 900W Battery Backup. Not only does that UPS save your ass in the event of a "Power Blip," it also monitors the current coming into your CPU. Now, that UPS is from 2022, and a power supply of 1000 Watts or more, we might need to get a bigger model (something like a 2200VA model.) In any case, you will want one that has "Sine Wave" Technology. Yes. You can buy all the fancy hardware, and still have issues. Plus, not only is Server Grade things more expensive, Photoshop will most likely not take advantage of all that stuff you are throwing at it, there needs to be a balance. In 2026...that $999 Computer Bundle isn't going to cut it when it comes to Photoshop. Likewise, building a Server with a XEON CPU that is meant for SQL Databases is just a waste of money...Photoshop will just ignore all of the extra tech. That's why a i7 CPU was only about 5-7% faster over a i5 about 10 years ago. PS never took advantage of what made a i7 CPU so fast. Personally, I'd recommend a High-End Motherboard, 96GB - 128GB DDR5 ECC RAM, NVIDIA RTX 5080 16GB VRAM, Liquid Cooling, NO STUPID RGB STUFF (you are editing photos and don't need to deal with color casts messing you up,) and a quality IPS-Based Display. HD capacity...at least 1TB, preferably 2TB OR have a 1TB main drive and a 2nd 1TB Drive that is just meant for PS's Scratch Disk. You can tell PS to use the 2nd drive because at the current prices of HDs, you are spending BIG bucks on a 4TB m.2 Drive. Power Supply, probably around 1000 Watts, but 850 Watts is still viable, you just need to get a CPU with higher-grade materials.

It happens.

They should be fine, just as long as it's a IPS Panel. That said, you may have to upgrade your Calibration Device / Software which may not be completely compatible with Mini-LED Lights. Technology just keeps pushing out things and old farts like me must adapt. If you do get a Mini-LED, please report back on how things go and if it calibrates well, matches your physical test prints, etc. Be sure to mention the Make / Model. Thanks!

Are you editing in LR first? This usually happens when doing something like a HDR or Panorama Merge in LR, possibly ACR. If you just opened the file (with no edits what-so-ever,) and it says, "Layer 0" just flatten and it will turn into the Background Layer that you are used to.

IPS stands for In-Plane-Switching. This type of display panel ensures that colors, contrast, sharpness are consistent from corner to corner, which is kinda important for editing photos. If your laptop doesn’t have one, it’s not a huge deal, you will need to purchase an external IPS Display and edit off of that. “That means I’m tied to a Desk!! I must be free!!” Yep. It sucks. This is why I really don’t like Laptops being used for Photo Editing, as 99% of them do not contain IPS Screens. I just got tired of arguing since people have a love-affair with laptops.