Damien Symonds

Terrific. No, it doesn't matter. I mean, I don't recommend it, because of backups, but it's not a "problem" at all. There's no need to be uncertain. Just check! Open Bridge, navigate to the folder of files, and see what you can see.

The thing is, every lab does this, but they don't usually tell us. I mean, we send them our sized print file, they print it at about 102% in size, to allow for exactly this cropping error margin.

DO NOT USE CANVAS SIZE. When you're cropping your photo for print, crop it 6mm bigger. Literally set your crop tool to 92.04cm x 91.56cm in the options bar, and crop. That is all. And as they say, don't have anything important in that final 3mm around each edge, knowing you will lose it.

Hi @alroy257, I'm so glad you're making the switch. First things first, have you checked that this setting is turned on? https://photographyconcentrate.com/lightroom-tip-turn-automatically-write-changes-xmp/

Don't worry, @brianna.vanvalen It really is easy. When we boil it all down, the simple fact is that your screen's brightness needs to match your prints. The HUGE thing you need to overcome is the feeling, at first, that your screen is way too dim. Everyone feels this, don't worry. But I promise, it will only take a few days before you're used to it, and in fact you'll wonder how you ever tolerated it so bright before!

Finally: https://www.damiensymonds.net/bridge-30-day-challenge

Your post makes it fairly apparent that you don't have a monitor calibrator. Please don't wait very long to rectify this: https://www.damiensymonds.net/what2buy_cal.html

If there are any issues of difference between the two sets of prints, always ignore the "Colour corrected" ones. Only trust the "Not colour corrected" ones. No, this is something of a myth. Regardless of the fact that screens are illuminated and prints are not, it's perfectly possible to get a VERY close match, I promise. That's right. 50% is very high - most people have their screens under 20%. Some people even have it at 0%! So yes, you're absolutely right, you need to lower your screen's brightness until it matches your prints. However, there is another aspect to this. Please read: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html Oh, and this one too: https://www.damiensymonds.net/cal_starthere.html

Oh gee. There could be a few ways of interpreting this, and it would be messy to get it wrong. Can you link me to their instructions, or screenshot them for me?

You might be right

How did you go, @abfriesen? Did you source a larger version of the photo?

What did you decide to do, @Tarria?

It's probably fairly self-explanatory. It's based on this method. But when I added the noise layer, I increased the Scale to a size that looked appropriate for the texture of the blanket. (In mine I used 190%, but of course yours would be much higher in the real file)

Well, that's what I was wondering. Yes, it's mottled, but I can't decide if that's a good or bad thing. Does it make it look more natural?

Here's another option. Let me know if you think it's got legs, and I'll tell you about the method. Download PSD (Sorry the file is so big, I needed it to be so you could see the texture. Also, I've only masked the left-hand side, from about 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock.) If you're running out of time, I guess this might have to do.

May I see how blurred it needs to be?

Or this: https://www.damiensymonds.net/creating-fake-blanket-texture.html

Then you probably don't have any choice but to increase the blur?

Oh? You don't have your camera? Or don't have a blanket?

Well, the alternative is to take a plain photo of the blanket (or any blanket of similar texture, doesn't need to be the same colour) and put that in there.

So ... to clarify, would you rather have nice texture in the blanket if you could?

I'm really sorry about this. If I'd known there was texture in the rug I would never have sent you down this path. In the first photo you gave me (I just went back and checked) it looked like the rug was smooth; that's why I thought all this copying and masking business would work. What is it about the blur option that you don't like?

And please don't wait too long to join the Bridge Class. It's so cheap and SO handy.

Yay!

Add a new blank layer at the top of the layer stack. Then hit Ctrl Alt Shift E to make a stamped version of the whole image. Then yes, convert that layer to a smart object. Then apply Gaussian Blur. Then add a mask.