Damien Symonds

Ok, great. Go ahead and raw-process your photos as normal, then we'll talk about the golden stuff.

Did you maybe mean seventh and seventeenth? The 15th one, by my count, is a girl leaning against a stone wall with one leg out, and it doesn't look particularly golden.

Are you referring to photos that you print yourself, or ones that you sell as digital files to clients?

Spread the shadow out a bit, I think. Broader and softer.

Also, because it's probably relevant, this: http://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/02/selling-digital-images.html

Because you're viewing the jpeg files in a non-colour-managed program, I assume. Make sure you only view in Bridge. Oh shit!!!! And because you're in Adobe RGB. Do this NOW: http://www.damiensymonds.net/art_tscs000.html Follow it all the way through to its conclusion. This is bloody bad.

And it's considered a quality lab?

I mean, have you read the NEW raw class material? Just checking.

Have you read the Raw Class yet?

Sorry, I'm confused. Which pro lab do you use now?

Level 8 is fine. Don't make it bigger, it will just make it more unwieldy for your friend to manage. And yes, PLEASE take the Sharpening Class. So much will make so much more sense to you then.

Yes, that's right. That's what jpeg does, it's a compressed file format. What size are you printing it? http://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/08/about-jpeg-file-size.html

Ta. For what purpose are you saving this jpeg file? Is it for print?

I need a screenshot of the next window. The one that appears after you press "Save" in this window.

This is nuts. You're in the Sharpening Class, have you even read it yet????

Ok, I understand. Yes, of course jpeg is ok, as long as you immediately delete the jpeg from your hard drive after you place it, so that it's not cluttering your hard drive.

I think it needs shadow mainly down beside the cheek.

Does your calibrated screen actually match your prints? Which Spyder do you have, and what screen?

Why on earth would you have a jpeg???????

You must have been painting it on with a much too high opacity brush.

Ok, great. I've been sitting here pondering this. Whether to assemble the design in colour first, then make it all black-and-white afterward; or to edit the photos separately in black-and-white, then assemble the design. Since there might be some blend mode work involved, which is hard to apply to multiple layers at once, I think we should go for the latter. So go ahead and edit both photos in black-and-white in the usual way, then post them here for me and we'll discuss combining.

Terrific! Now, do you intend yours to be in black-and-white too, or in colour?

No, I said -50 for Lightness. And that shadowing is too big and ... not how shadowing would look.

Not by me they're not. What did they say, exactly? Write to me in the "Contact Damien and the Team" section.

Ok, so underneath the baby layer, add a Hue/Saturation layer, and move the Lightness slider to about -50. That will darken everything except the baby. Invert the mask to hide it. Then gently mask on where you want shadowing to be. Afterwards, you might like to increase the Saturation slider a bit, to your taste.