Damien Symonds

Gosh, good question. One of those things that's more obvious afterwards than at the time of shooting, I guess. I'm confident I can help with this. Go ahead and do your raw processing (don't forget noise removal) and post again for me.

Interesting. What about if you flatten the layers and save as a jpeg? I assume that's fine?

Hi Amity, what file format are you saving? Also, which other programs are you viewing in? Also, which X-Rite calibrator do you have?

Great! The first step to a better workflow is knowing how terrible Lightroom is. Usually it takes more effort on my part to convince people of that. So I'm glad you've already done the work for me. Your first step is to download and install Adobe Bridge, if you haven't already. It's among the programs you have with your CC subscription. Then, start by watching this video, and this one.

The very first FAQ

Yes, the "80/90/100/etc" options are correct. As I said in my instructions, use 80 the first time.

You do have Bridge. If you have Photoshop CC, simply go to the CC control panel and download and install it. If you have a version of Photoshop which came on disk, Bridge will be there too.

I didn't, that's the point. Absolutely no selection at all. The "Screen" blend mode does all the work.

Nah, go with 1600, that's fine.

I must say that's not quite what I expected. Did you definitely use "Multiply" mode?

Hi Ashley, it should be sufficient to add a "Solid Color" layer of that colour, and set it to "Multiply" blend mode. Then carefully mask on. After the masking is completed, double-click the layer thumbnail to tweak the colour a bit further to your taste. (Well, your client's taste).

In this example, I desaturated, darkened, and blackened the background of your glass ... ... then I'm able to Place it on a photo on "Screen" layer blend mode:

This is really important - can you see the difference between your photo and the other one? Your photo is essentially a light glass on a dark background (whereas the other one was a dark glass on a light background). This difference dictates what you can do with the image. Yours can only ever be against a dark background.

I'm told that some lenses are more prone to it. If you post in Brian's DSLR Bistro, he's likely to have some more info for you.

Yep, that's CA for sure. It's no coincidence that it follows the line of the focal plane. Fix it thusly.

It is likely to be CA. May I see a 100% crop?

Can I check - for what reason are you converting to DNG format?

Ok, so the problem appears to be that you've used a much too small brush when liquifying. For this kind of thing, I'd estimate that you'd use a brush almost as big as the distance from the tip of her nose to the tip of her chin, if that makes sense.

Maybe you're right. But I haven't heard of Dropbox doing it. It's more likely something on his computer.

I've just updated the article with that. Thank you.

Sorry, yes, it's Cmd Opt Shift E.

Oh! Those are Facebook dimensions. See how it says 2048? You need to ask him for the original camera files.

I'm not optimistic here. Even if you could make the angle work on the first one (and it might be feasible) the shadowing would be a killer

Do you happen to know what camera they were shot on? If you go to File>File Info, it should tell you.

The first thing to do is view the filename and make sure its ".psd" extension is there as it should be.