Damien Symonds

That's great. Thanks for letting us know.

No, if you intend to repair some of these, you MUST scan in 48-bit.

It's not a gradient, it's a Gradient Map layer. One of the options in your list of adjustment layers. But if you feel like being lazy, just drag my layer across to your file and re-mask it You are very kind. It's a button at the very bottom right-hand corner of damiensymonds.net

Can't wait to see how it looks! Can you post for us?

For $35, it might be worth the gamble, I guess. As long as you're fully aware that it is a gamble.

There's not a whole lot you can do, unfortunately. It's definitely true that your best option is a complete swap. But if you'd be satisfied simply with a little colour here, try a Levels layer, and move the middle slider on the Red channel to the right a bit, and the middle slider on the Blue channel to the left a bit.

Yah, I can see those ones!!! The bulletproof way to prevent it is this.

Hi Charlotte, if you simply search for "sky" on my site, it should be the first hit. Here it is.

Hi Natasha, as you've found out, using the brush tool on backdrops is fraught with danger. I always recommend using other methods if possible. May I see one of the photos you've had trouble with?

That's great, thanks. When you were trying Liquify, were you using the Mask feature to make sure you wouldn't move areas that shouldn't be moved?

PSD file for downloading In this one, I flipped the top brick layer horizontally, in hopes of disguising the edit a bit. What do you think of it?

In my playing, I think it's easiest to duplicate the Background layer and desaturate it, then duplicate that again. Move the second one up, and line it up with the existing lines of bricks as best you can. Working with it in grayscale seems to make it easier. I'll upload a file in a moment ...

Gosh I love this forum. I was just coming back here to type "Can you tell me whether you have Photoshop or Elements?" (old habits die hard) but I don't need to! It's right there in the sidebar! Woohoo!

Have you tried prints from a second lab, just to be sure?

Do you already own the Spyder3Elite? If so, definitely try it and see. If you're thinking about buying a used Spyder3Elite, I'd be very wary.

Other people have been reporting this too. Can you try again now?

Hey, cool, I didn't know you could tag either!!! @Crystal Felton @Lara Crystal, from my understanding, Scrubby Zoom is closely tied to your graphics processor. If it's suddenly stopped working, that would seem to suggest your graphics card needs a driver update, or something like that.

Oh, I'm jealous!!!! I love my Epson V700. You'll love yours.

Hi Cath, try this: A levels layer, with the following values for the sliders: RGB channel: 0/1.25/240 Red channel: 0/1.20/255 Blue channel: 0/0.95/255 Then mask to the hand.

Hi Jodi, can you recall what Quality Level you chose when saving this jpeg file?

Gee, warmer than Millers? That's really concerning. Millers are already too warm, compared to the international colour standards. Do Musea give any advice about calibration targets on their website? I have to admit I've never heard of Musea before. By the way, please don't use soft-proofing when comparing prints for the purpose of assessing calibration.

Hi Alex, can you fill this out for me? And can you tell me a bit more about the bad behaviour? Do you mean they don't work, or only sometimes?

Well, if it happens again, let me know right away.

Hi Sarah, may I see your whole screen in the screenshot?

Hi Sue, yes, a properly clean-processed photo needs both good raw processing, and good Photoshop editing. Is it as simple as ... ... maybe, maybe not. Every photo is different. Some need a little, some need a lot. I'm not sure what you meant by this: What "I want" is for your photos to be the best they can be.