Damien Symonds

Everything looks absolutely fine at my end. Viewing in both Photoshop and Bridge, the PSD looks the same as the jpeg. Just downloading the Tiff now ...

How did it go?

I'm so sorry Julie, clean black-and-white processing is all covered in my Levels Class, so I can't share the methods here. I hope you understand. I hope you like this, though:

Can you explain what you mean by a "gradient filter"?

Next, make sure you do this so you can rescue the files trapped in Lightroom.

Oh gee, are you sure about this? It's unflatteringly dark. Is your calibration up to date?

Do you mind sending me that weird TIFF file so I can see how it looks on my computer?

No, no, not at all. There's just a little setting in the Preferences of some calibrators that can affect how images appear in non-Photoshop programs; however I don't think it applies to you or your Smile.

Gosh, good question. One of those things that's more obvious afterwards than at the time of shooting, I guess. I'm confident I can help with this. Go ahead and do your raw processing (don't forget noise removal) and post again for me.

Interesting. What about if you flatten the layers and save as a jpeg? I assume that's fine?

Hi Amity, what file format are you saving? Also, which other programs are you viewing in? Also, which X-Rite calibrator do you have?

Great! The first step to a better workflow is knowing how terrible Lightroom is. Usually it takes more effort on my part to convince people of that. So I'm glad you've already done the work for me. Your first step is to download and install Adobe Bridge, if you haven't already. It's among the programs you have with your CC subscription. Then, start by watching this video, and this one.

The very first FAQ

Yes, the "80/90/100/etc" options are correct. As I said in my instructions, use 80 the first time.

You do have Bridge. If you have Photoshop CC, simply go to the CC control panel and download and install it. If you have a version of Photoshop which came on disk, Bridge will be there too.

I didn't, that's the point. Absolutely no selection at all. The "Screen" blend mode does all the work.

Nah, go with 1600, that's fine.

I must say that's not quite what I expected. Did you definitely use "Multiply" mode?

Hi Ashley, it should be sufficient to add a "Solid Color" layer of that colour, and set it to "Multiply" blend mode. Then carefully mask on. After the masking is completed, double-click the layer thumbnail to tweak the colour a bit further to your taste. (Well, your client's taste).

In this example, I desaturated, darkened, and blackened the background of your glass ... ... then I'm able to Place it on a photo on "Screen" layer blend mode:

This is really important - can you see the difference between your photo and the other one? Your photo is essentially a light glass on a dark background (whereas the other one was a dark glass on a light background). This difference dictates what you can do with the image. Yours can only ever be against a dark background.

I'm told that some lenses are more prone to it. If you post in Brian's DSLR Bistro, he's likely to have some more info for you.

Yep, that's CA for sure. It's no coincidence that it follows the line of the focal plane. Fix it thusly.

It is likely to be CA. May I see a 100% crop?

Can I check - for what reason are you converting to DNG format?