Damien Symonds

You haven't set the new background file to "Multiply" blend mode. Can you post the new background file by itself, so I can see what it looks like? I think you might be going about this the wrong way.

If it was just shadows, I'd say yes. But this isn't just shadows, this is a white balance problem.

I beg you, watch this and make your life much easier in the future.

No, not at all. Just post the new ones below.

You can't argue with the javascript. You are an idiot. Restart every day.

Hi Suz, I'm sure I can help with this. Go ahead and do your raw processing, then post the photo again.

I think it's time we saw your photo, Nancy. We're flying blind here.

That one will do for now. But yes, it will be a good idea to get some more before too long.

Is this the SOOR?

How did you go with this, Paige? May we see what you created?

Yes, I think just brighten the background a tiny bit.

Well, I think the first one would be easier. The second one would require more background editing.

Well, lockets are so small, so you might be ok!!!

Hi Mira, have you read this?

This is a very good idea. The more you can do this, the better and faster your work will be. Have you ever made an action before? I wrote a simple tutorial here. Also, some general info here. And of course, this one will slice heaps of time off your output workflow.

That's great, but it's also largely irrelevant. The only thing that's relevant is the comparison to your pro lab prints. How is it?

Absolutely not. Don't try to mess about with the black point, it's more risk than reward. Let it fall where it may.

Yeah, just patient cloning, I'd say. Probably at low opacity, so it blends.

It's showing good promise so far.

Needless to say, feel free to post a photo any time you need assistance.

You haven't actually said what's wrong? Why are you unhappy with the calibration?

2) When it comes down to technical basics, the files you're sending to the lab are just a bunch of ones and zeros. Simple binary data that comprises all digital files. The screen upon which you edited is completely irrelevant. All that matters is for your calibrated screen to show those ones and zeros the same as the lab printed them.

1) For the purposes of calibration, you must ignore those profiles. They'll become important later, but can only be utilised after you are confident with the calibration.

Gosh, yes, maximum is madness!

I have to leave now, for a little while. Basically, I think your settings should be 300/300 (rather than 300/450) and High, or even Medium, not Maximum for the image quality.