Brian

Actually, the specs needed for Photoshop CC is a Gaming PC. I would not buy a NVIDIA RTX 4060. Get either a 4070 or 4080. As far as the Intel ARC Video Card, never heard of it. Photoshop likes NVIDIA Drivers. In fact, there are drivers that are known as the "NVIDIA Studio Drivers," which are meant for Photoshop usage. From NVIDIA's Website: Basically, the Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe's current products. Give this article a read: Buying a Windows Computer in 2025

Your husband is correct. I'd recommend a NVIDIA RTX 4070 with 8GB of Video RAM (12-16 would be better) for the current versions of Photoshop CC in 2025. A NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB is completely outdated for "Today's Modern Photoshop." ALL of those fancy AI Tools, which are included in the latest versions of Photoshop CC, utilize the Video GPU and Dedicated Video Memory in order to function. Hell, even Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) uses the Video GPU and Video RAM to work. (Also tools like Liquify, Noise Reduction, Lens Filters, etc. also use the Video GPU.) So what can you do? Well, you can upgrade the Video Card, but I will tell you, that can be an expensive Rabbit Hole to go down. Not only will you have to fork out the money for a new video card, but money for a possible power supply that has the wattage to support said new card. Then since current video cards are like "Computers within Computers," chances are you are buying a new case to house the new video card and power supply. Then you find out your motherboard isn't powerful enough, causing that to be replaced...then a new CPU, RAM, etc. etc. So basically...you are buying a whole new computer just to make Photoshop happy. So what can you do? Downgrade to an older version of Photoshop AND STAY THERE!! NO UPGRADING FOR YOU, REGARDLESS ON HOW MUCH ADOBE BUGS YOU TO UPDATE. Start saving for a new computer, I'd budget $2500 in 2025.

Curious, what clean-up program are you using? Also, I know Apple's Marketing convinced the masses that "16GB on a Apple Silicon Chip is like 32GB on a Intel CPU." Which is true...to a certain degree. It's one of those things, "If you build it they will come..." In reality, in order for that to happen, the Programmers who write the code that create the programs that we use need write software code that is optimized and efficient, which takes time and more effort / money. What happens with industry? They want to produce things for the lowest price-point. So that code isn't always the best, which makes 16GB of RAM not as large as it was marketed to be. That's why I've been recommending from the start of Apple Silicon (M1, M2, M3, and now M4 Macs,) to get at least 32GB of RAM and 64GB if you can afford it. Because sooner or later, it won't be enough. People used to tell me that I didn't know what I was talking about and how I am wrong. LOL!!

Honestly? You are kinda screwed. 16GB of RAM in 2025 is like having 8GB a few years ago, and with the current Macs, there is no upgrading after the fact. I'd recommend 32GB and really-really-really recommend getting a Mac with at least 64GB going forward. Hard Drive: Once you go above 75% - 80% Full, ON ANY HARD DRIVE, INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL, your Mac's performance takes a HUGE hit. Above 90% full, things will slow to a crawl and once you get above 95% full, data corruption is highly likely. So if you have Full External Drives AND a pretty full internal HD, your Mac will run poorly. The reason is that the macOS does not treat an internal HD or external HD any differently, as they are "Mounted" Devices; meaning they are all the same, regardless of physical location. So a larger external HD might be in your future. So for your case, cull-cull-cull!!! Be ruthless to your files. You do not need 75 Raw Photos of your Lunch taken in the Spring of 2013. I promise. As you have read in my other article, the more crap you have on your Mac Desktop, the slower the damn thing runs. It treats ANY file or folder on your Mac Desktop as a open window, even if it's just sitting there not doing anything. Download and Purchase a Annual Subscription to CleanMyMac from MacPaw.com. Run it weekly. I've been using this program for 15+ years and it's one of those programs you just buy and use. Just be sure to keep with the updates, you don't want a utility program like these to get outdated with any updates to the macOS. (No, I receive no income or kick-back in recommending this program, it's what I've been using since 2009 and have paid for the program all these years.) Finally, start saving for a new Mac. Because ALL Macs are glorified iPads and can not be upgraded after-the-fact. Apple wants you to "Go Big or Go Home" and you are penalized for attempting to save money. There aren't any slots to add RAM or replace the HD. Those were for computers 10+ years ago. Unfortunately, we live in a throw-away society, regardless on how much we claim to recycle. Bottom Line for your Case: Attack the HDs, delete files (or move them to other HDs,) clean up your Mac Desktop, and invest in CleanMyMac. Run it weekly.

Honestly? I'd get the new M4 Mac Studio that's about to be released. Unless you edit 4K / 8K video, you will never take advantage of what makes a Mac Ultra so powerful over a Mac Max because the main difference between the two is Video Decoders built into the chip AND the Bandwidth to the Memory. For Photoshop work, it's just still Photos. Photoshop isn't coded to take advantage of the power of the M3 Ultra Chip. It's like buying a high-end car, such as a Bugatti Tourbillon, and all you do is drive to the Grocery Store, the Post Office and your job during the week that's 10 miles away. Maybe visit your Best Friend in the next town over. You aren't "opening-it-up" on some remote highway somewhere...but you do have bragging rights. While I totally get where you are coming from, similar to the "Last Camera Syndrome," in trying to future-proof, I also hate wasting money. All because "Ultra" sounds cooler than "Max." That's Apple's Legendary Marketing, we didn't know we "Needed" a ______________ (iPhone, iPod, iPad, Mac etc.) until Apple released/made one. The truth is, no computer will be your last. Of course, you can delay the inevitable, but to truly have just ONE computer in your future? Not possible, unless you are planning on dying within the next 10 years. The reason is the software, it keeps changing. Especially the macOS. Eventually, it will be upgraded and your fancy M3 Ultra that you blew $4200+ on will become obsolete because that newest/latest macOS won't support it. Then software from Adobe or Microsoft will require a certain level of macOS that you may not be able to install, because you are stuck on an older macOS. See where I'm coming from? For the longest time, I delayed updating my macOS on my 2017 Mac, because it's a 2017 Mac and until Apple gets around to the xx.xx.6 or xx.xx.7 releases, there tends to be bugs, especially with Adobe's products. Once you get to .7 or .6 on the end, the macOS is matured and really stable. BUT! I recently discovered that my Microsoft OneDrive stopped working...all due to my outdated macOS. In fact, the other updates for my Microsoft Office also wouldn't install until I updated my macOS. Now, I've held off for Photoshop Updates, but I'm sure at some point, I will be forced to upgrade to an even newer macOS and be limited to an unsupported version...all because I have a 2017 iMac that isn't supported by the macOS a few years from now. So the bottom line is, while your Mac Hardware may last 10-15 years, the software that runs on it won't. Yes, it's important to "Buy It Right - Buy It Once," you will never win the "Catch-Up / Future Proof" Game. OK, so now back to your question. My answer? Neither. What would I buy for your situation? Then the Standard Mac Studio Display to go with it: Then Add Monthly Apple Care until cancelled, a new Keyboard and Mouse: Then Review your purchase and make sure AppleCare is on everything: For a Grand Sub-Total of $5,956.00 (Plus any applicable local sales tax.) So depending on your location, that could be $350 - $500 more. So let's say your new Mac is $6500-ish. Would you need 128GB of RAM? Not really. For you, 64GB is fine. Again, if you were editing video and using A LOT of RAM Hungry Plug-ins, OR you were running Virtual Computers at the same time you are editing photos, then 128GB would be a good idea. A 2TB Drive isn't truly needed, and I'd recommending going with a 1TB internal, then taking those savings and investing in a much larger External Thunderbolt 3/4 Hard Drive, at least 12TB - 18TB. Then be sure to add a 4TB dedicated USB-C External Drive for Time Machine Backups. So that adds another $1000 to your cost, conversationally speaking. $7500 for a new computer. Sheesh.

Mac Studio - "This Goes to 11" Version Yes...this is a Spinal Tap reference Let's say you aren't normal (like me) and want a little more "Umph" for your Mac Studio, but don't want to fork out $10,000 for a new computer? Here is what I would purchase for myself. In the end, it's not THAT much more and gives me a few more years with my purchase. Same deal, start by selecting the M4 Mac Studio on the left for $1999: Upgrade the Processor to the Apple M4 Max chip with 16‑core CPU, 40‑core GPU, 16‑core Neural Engine Upgrade the RAM to 64GB Upgrade the Internal HD to 1TB Storage Then you'll need to add AppleCare, a new Mouse & Keyboard if you desire, an Apple Studio Display, AND BE SURE TO ADD APPLECARE TO EVERYTHING. You could increase the Internal HD to 2TB, but honestly? I'd rather you take that $400 and put it towards a Thunderbolt 3 or Thunderbolt 4 External HD, at least 12TB or more, rather than blow it on the Internal Drive. 1TB is still viable for a main HD in 2025. This "11" Configuration is what I personally would buy. So if you want to be like me, that's what I'd click on.

Mac Studio - Quick & Dirty Version This is probably the easiest one to purchase. It's the same price-point as the 2023 M3 version and you get a better CPU and GPU for the same amount of money. Start by selecting the M4 Mac Studio on the left for $1999: Keep everything the same except UPGRADE THE INTERNAL HD TO 1TB! That's it. Then you'll need to add AppleCare, a new Mouse & Keyboard if you desire, an Apple Studio Display, AND BE SURE TO ADD APPLECARE TO EVERYTHING. This computer will run Photoshop CC well for the foreseeable future.

Apple just announced the new M4 Mac Studio, which is what I alluded to when I created my Mac Mini WTB Article. For the money, the Mac Studio is a better fit for Photographers, IMHO...but the Mac Mini is also fine. I just have a 7-8 life-span in mind when it comes to my computers. Normally, I'd create a document with step-by-step instructions on what to click, but I'm holding off until the end of the month. Why? Because Apple WILL change their website after March 12th and I'd have to redo things. I'm not doing that this year. So I'm going to post a few configuration screen-shots and you should be able to figure things out. If you can wait until the end-of-the-month, the full WTB article will be available. For now there are Two Configurations:

No clicking can be a "good" thing, as the clicking noise is the HD heads scrapping against the platters creating dust that contains your data. See this video to demonstrate what I'm talking about. That scenario is the worst thing you can have happen. Now, LaCie uses cheap Seagate HDs, and that's why I stopped really recommending them. I'd contact Gillware and have them give you a quote. It's one thing if you can access the drive; that gives you a chance to use recovery software. It's whole other thing if you can't get to the drive at all. Before you ask, "What EHD do you recommend?" Honestly? None at this point. They are ALL practically garbage, made from the cheapest components, from the lowest bidder for the parts. I seriously am thinking about recommending folks buy and internal high-quality drive, then buy a $20 external case to switch it over to an external. This way you can be sure of what drive you are getting. This is also why you should have your data backed up in multiple places and one even kept off-site. But that's a whole other thread.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm talking about. Hold off for a few days. March 12th is the release date.

I just googled this, and it doesn't look good. The AI Bot states... In which case it's really bad for you to mess with that drive if it's in a catastrophic state; the more you mess with it in a panic, the worse it gets and you will lose your data. I would reach out to these guys and see if they can give you a quote. Gillware Data Recovery Services

Is it clicking? Or Beeping? You might need to send it out for Data Recovery. What is actually happening?

If you are still getting BSOD errors, even after a clean install, I'd say the HD is the likely culprit and it's corrupting itself. It also could be a bad RAM stick and believe it or not, a faulty CPU Chip. But that's REALLY-REALLY RARE. I've only had that happen to me ONCE in 32 years as a computer tech. Since you are on a laptop, it complicates things. Unfortunately, Adobe's current products are relying heavily on the Graphics Card's GPU and dedicated Video RAM. Video Cards...that's a whole rabbit whole; they are almost like mini computers within computers and it's better to save up and get a Dell that already has a beefy Video Card, because it will save you time and money. It's not like computers were 20+ years ago. Now you have to make sure your motherboard has the type of slot that's required, AND if your power supply has enough power to support a beefy video card. It's so easy to blow $1500 on just upgrading the video card and it honestly sounds like you just can't afford it. Now, what I would do, is take your laptop into a computer shop and have them replace the Hard Drive and do a fresh install of Windows 10 (While you still can.) You should be able to install a 1TB Samsung SSD Drive. They are like $90 bucks these days. A repair should should be able to swap the drive and it's WAAAAAY Cheaper than you forking out $2000-$2500 for a new computer setup. Yep. Even if we went "Cheap," you are still around the $1600 price-point for just the computer, THEN you have to buy a monitor on top of it. The day's of the $999 Special are from the 1990's, those models don't exist anymore and if they do, I know for certain PS will complain. It's just become such a beast in 2025...this isn't PS CS6 anymore. The nice part with the Samsung SSD, is say I'm wrong and it's something else that can't be repaired. You can always remove that drive and install it as a 2nd HD in your new Desktop. So you really aren't throwing that much money away. So that's my 2 Cents. Try a replacement HD and go from there.

You aren't going to like this. Apple has made it so that the only display that will look good (like you are used to / the Apple Macintosh Experience) is the stupidly over-priced Apple Studio Display for $1599. You will want the Standard Glass version. It's only money, right? "1600?!?!!!" Surely there must be another cheaper alternative!!! Here is the thing... Apple changed the signal coming out of the HDMI port. I found this out from a tech bulletin put out by Eizo, who make really high-end displays. They were the ones to discover this. According to the bulletin, "When using HDMI on a Mac computer, the signal from the Mac computer may change to YUV Limited Range and banding may occur." So in a nutshell, the only display that will look good on a Mac Laptop is a Apple Studio Display. Yes, Apple does this on purpose. Just think, when you use Apple Branded Cables for your iPhones & iPads, magically data transfer speeds improve dramatically than if you used a 3rd party (aka cheap) cable. See a theme here? Apple does this shit all-the-time. Anyway, back to the Eizo Tech Bulletin... Meaning, your colors might be a little off, and banding may occur. Apple doesn't do 4K very well, and things like text look like crap, and Apple really-really-really wants you to use their 5K Displays. Of course, as time goes on, 3rd party manufactures will adapt, but I will say this... Every member in Ask Damien who went the cheap route going with a 3rd party display were not satisfied and ended up forking out the $1599 at the end. One member went through 3 third party displays an was only happy when she bought the Apple Studio Display. Even with the $1299 LG Display that Apple helped design...just fork out the extra $300 and be done with it. So honestly? Save yourself the stress and just save up. Because you are going to end up there any way. Of course, at the end-of-the-day, it's your money. If you do go the 3rd party route, let me know what you picked and how your experience was. I hate having to recommend a stupid $1600 display.

I like the MSI Motherboards, and the Asus ROG models. That MSI should be fine. I'd buy it.

Oh, I get why your husband noticed that model. On the surface, it seems "better," but in reality, you are wasting money. It's almost like trying to buy a Hummer when a simple 4-wheel drive vehicle will do; sure both can go off-roading, but that Hummer only gets 5 miles per gallon and is completely unnecessary for the simple off-roading that you might do, or drive through that snow storm. The right tool for the job.

It depends on the laptop. Yes is the short answer, but “It depends…” is probably a more accurate answer. If the laptop has screws and/or an access panel, it’s relatively straightforward. That said, laptops are becoming more and more integrated and sealed units; in which case you could really break something even if you are careful. it might be better to take it to a repair shop that specializes in Laptop Repair and have them swap out the drive. Have them install Windows 10. Even though there is money involved, it will be way cheaper than forking out a few thousand on a new laptop.

It also could be a great time to replace your existing internal HD with a Samsung Evo 870 2TB SSD Drive. This way you can pull the existing HD and not touch it, and start from a clean SSD Drive from scratch. You still will need to create a Windows 10 64 bit Home Thumb Drive.

Use the Windows Media Creation Tool to create a Windows 10 64-Bit Thumb Drive. You will need at least a blank 16GB Thumbdrive for this. Or you could use a 32GB. In the past, 8GB Thumbdrives were fine, but Windows 10 is a little too big these days and I like having a little wiggle room. Boot from that, delete existing partitions and reinstall Windows 10 Home 64-bit from scratch. I would also download the Dell Drivers for your WiFi / Ethernet Port so you can get out to the internet and download other drivers before doing anything. (Or just grab video drivers, chipset drivers, or use Dell’s Support Website to scan your computer and download everything for you. (This is why it’s so important to get the Ethernet / Wi-Fi Drivers First, so you can get online.) Again, this method will NUKE your Main HD, so be sure to backup ALL important files and such.

That laptop is fine. I'd use that until you can get your Desktop straightened out.

I just use Windows Defender, on both my Virtual Machines and Wife's Computer. Seriously. That's it. Unless you download lots of illegal movies and other stuff from the Torrent Sites, visit shady porn sites and download said porn videos that are laced with something, or play around on the Dark Web, your chances of you getting a Virus are pretty small. This isn't the 1990's. Now in 2025, people want to scam you into getting your bank account info. Or get your Credit Cards somehow, much more profitable. The problem is when people buy a new laptop, they don't run things by me 1st. The issue isn't that it's a new laptop, the issue is that it's an under-powered laptop, as in...you didn't buy "enough." It's like buying a 3 Door Honda Hatchback but needing to go off-road in the Mountains somewhere, in which case a beefy 4 wheel drive vehicle is required. Both vehicles can get you to the Supermarket, but only one will get you through rough terrain, rivers & mud and through the mountains. In 2025, Adobe's products are using the GPU now more than ever; it's no longer the computer that has "Lots of RAM," a "Big HD" and a "Fast CPU." That thinking was 30 years ago. Hell, that applied even 10 years ago when we were still dealing with PS CS6. Once we got past 2020, Photoshop started to get more bloated. All I can recommend to you is to "SAVE-SAVE-SAVE." Be ready to "Click Buy" when you see a deal. Waiting until the end of the year is a safe bet...if you can hold out that long. I'd budget $2500-$3000. If you buy something that's less, fantastic!! I hate wasting money on this shit. But if you have a chunk of cash at the ready, you could snag an awesome computer that will last you 7 years or so.

Nothing. Windows 10 will continue to work like it always has. There just won't be any further bug-fixes / patches / security updates, etc. So as time goes on, Windows 10 will become more vulnerable to things, and those things WebRoot may not be able to help you out with. For the moment, start saving for a new laptop/computer and a system restore back to Windows 10 is a good first step. That's the Adobe App not talking to the Adobe Mothership. It's a communication issue. You might have to un-install and re-install the Photoshop CC App. You might have to contact Adobe as well. Microsoft is sneaky like that. If your laptop can support Win 11, MSFT will push down the update, and when you run Windows Update (or it's triggered in some way,) Windows 11 will install. So since you are on the Home Edition, you will need to stay on top of things and not let it install. Sidenote: If the BSOD keep appearing, even with Windows 10, I suspect a failing HD or faulty RAM being the culprit. But 1st things 1st, let's get you settled back into Windows 10.

I just did a quick Google Search with your laptop and Windows 11, and it seems lots of other folks are having similar issues that you are having. I'm thinking Windows 11 just doesn't like your laptop, or specifically, the Dell Drivers just suck and Windows 11 crashes. At this point, if you do take in your laptop to have it Nuked, see if you can go back to Windows 10 and stay there.

Oh here is your error message meaning: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL Windows 11 As you can see, a software bug in the driver. I'm thinking the Dell Drivers for your laptop just suck with Windows 11. Maybe you can Nuke it and go back to Windows 10. I would however, backup important files while you can. Right now you can get into your Laptop, even if it's just for a short time. Eventually...this won't be an option. SO BACKUP-BACKUP-BACKUP!!! Things like files and images, license numbers for software. Backup Actions and Brushes. Have it in your mind that your laptop is a Ticking Time Bomb and eventually you won't get into it. So backup!! No editing Photos, get backed up. Buy a 128GB Thumbdrive and copy stuff there.

You have outdated drivers that aren't playing well with Windows 11. That laptop has been discontinued by Dell, and I'm sure most of the Drivers have been "Orphaned" and really aren't updated to make it more compatible with Windows 11. Two choices: Take your computer into a Tech Shop and have them Nuke the HD (Wipe it) and install a fresh copy of Windows 11. There is no guarantee that this will work, but if you do have some sort of corruption of drivers, this should clear it. But again...no guarantees that this will work and you might be back at square one. Time for a new Laptop. It's only money, right? Windows 11 is really pushing older hardware. What do I mean when I say "Older?" Devices that are 2-3 years old or more. The biggest mistake you did is upgrade to Windows 11. (I know, Micro$oft bugs you about it and makes things so tempting.)