Damien Symonds

Yes, definitely. They've ironed all the bugs out, it should run fine.

You won't have a choice. CC2019 is the one. Or, as you can see, no older than 2017. I'm surprised that is still available, even.

There are lots of ways, of course. Here's a pretty easy one ... Add a blank layer, then use the eyedropper tool to sample some of the yellower skin just under the eye. Add a Solid Color layer of that colour, and change its blend mode to "Screen" (which will immediately make the whole photo quite light). Invert the mask to hide that, then use a very low opacity white brush (eg 3%) to gently paint into those spots.

We'll concentrate on the monitor. Follow the troubleshooting part of my calibration instructions.

If you don't know the exact resolution, that's fine. Just crop it to the dimensions required, without imposing any resolution at all. Will you need to allow some extra for bleed or wrap?

Let's put this nonsense to bed right away. That has NEVER been true. I don't know why this myth still exists. You need to talk directly to the printer, to find out what resolution they require. As you know, it's common for normal printing to be done at 300ppi, but that's far too high for this. It's more likely to be 100ppi or thereabouts.

Which of the two monitors is a closer match to the prints?

Please update, @Jenny_11. How did the recal go?

You've done great, well done.

@cathm, please update me with where we're at. You said your screen still doesn't match your prints. In what way does it differ?

It looks ok from here, but I'll need the 100% crop to tell for sure. ALERT! DANGER! ALERT! You're working in Adobe RGB! That's very very bad. Make sure you click on the link at the bottom of the ACR window to change to sRGB.

Also, please read: https://www.damiensymonds.net/2011/09/cropping-tutorial.html

Hi @kymater, yep, I can definitely help with this. Go ahead and do your raw processing as usual, then post the photo again for me so we can discuss the shirt. Oh, by the way, which version of Photoshop do you have?

My googling says it's a 20 megapixel camera? 5472×3648

What are the pixel dimensions of one of its raw files?

Ok .... so ... what's the problem?

Are you saying it's not working for you? Did you not achieve a print match?

Can you explain what your concern is, exactly? You seem determined to find faults with the monitor calibration process.

No, that's not the ColorMunki's role. Its role is to create the profiles for you. Use Windows, or the app, to switch between them.

Lightroom is utter shit, and I urge you to get a version of Photoshop or Elements pronto. You can choose any profile that's on your system with the little app I described in this article. (You can also do it with Windows itself, but the app is easier.)

And now that I think about it, I guess one of the most poignant reasons is that some people prefer to save their profile with the date (thereby gradually filling their system with out-of-date profiles) and some people prefer to save it without a date (thereby replacing the same profile each month). Software that automatically made that choice for us would only please half of us, if you know what I mean.

If you're calibrating dual (or more) monitors, you need to be able to name the profile to tell you which monitor it belongs to. This is important for checking (in the Display control panel) to confirm that Windows is recognising a profile, if you need to do any troubleshooting. If you're doing a series of calibration tests, you need to be able to tell yourself what settings you used. Remember that these settings won't always be in-system ones that the software could automatically pick up and include in the name for you. They might be settings you used on the actual monitor.

Because of all the things I just said.

Sorry, I don't understand what you don't understand.

No, not two separate systems. I mean dual monitors on the same system.