Damien Symonds

Yes, I already answered that. That is a function of the Image Size dialog, it has nothing to do with cropping. You should rarely need to use the Image Size dialog; and if you do, constrain proportions must always be checked, always. You began this thread by asking about the crop tool, and I'm sure you're right - this is definitely about cropping, NOT about Image Size. So I need to know more details about the requirements for these headshots, so I can help you further.

Well, it would need to be a carefully chosen sky, of course. You couldn't whack any old sky in there. It would need to be suitably out-of-focus.

This, I think, is the best we can do with the sky as it exists. If you want more than this, we're in sky replacement territory. It was a levels layer, masked to the sky: Red channel 0/1.50/245 and 85/255 Green channel 0/1.20/250 and 45/240 Blue channel 0/1.00/255 and 0/225

Almost It's untagged. Always make sure you have the profile box checked when saving, for any purpose.

Thanks, I can work with this. I noticed that, in your original post, you provided a screenshot of your photo rather than the photo itself. Can you post the photo for me? In jpeg format is fine.

How did you go with this?

Have you taken it yet, @Josie Stahl?

@Mindy?

@Ads1976? Got a link for me?

@Paige?

How did you go?

Yes.

Let's ignore the yellowness for now. Just concentrate on the brightness. Keep taking your screen's brightness down until it matches the prints.

Do you mean you have this exact photo printed at both labs? No sad face here. This is perfectly normal. Some people have to put their brightness all the way down to 0.

Yes, do those pixel edits, then this layer above that. Then your Levels work on top.

Great, glad you like it. Download the PSD

It's vitally important not to try to edit it. It's too risky. Treat it like a backdrop, and replace it. If you can give me a few minutes, I'll have something to show you.

There are probably half a dozen ways we could approach this, but let's keep it simple. I suggest adding a Hue/Saturation layer and putting it on "Multiply" blend mode. Then patiently mask it on to the area, until it's pretty good. I did that, but found that I was a bit fussy, and it wasn't quite as nice as I wanted. So I turned on the "Colorize" checkbox in the Hue/Sat dialog, then fiddled with the three sliders until I was happier with the result. I ended up with: Hue 19 Saturation 20 Lightness -9

Yes, only an sRGB screen. PLEASE don't attempt to play with colours that neither your screen can show you, nor your lab print. Change your workflow to sRGB immediately.

Thanks. That might help Brian with his diagnosis.

What screen do you have? Make and model, I mean?

Hi Gena, could you do this for us?

Nooo!!! This is a huge falsehood, please don't fall for it. Adobe RGB is dangerous.

Unfortunately it's not possible to change muddy water to blue water. I get asked this all the time. You see, if water was blue, it would have to be clear. And if it was clear, you'd be able to see (a) through it to the bed to a degree, and (b) more reflections. If you change brown to blue, it doesn't look like clear, nice water, it looks like nuclear waste. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news