Damien Symonds

1 minute ago, Sarah Alloway said:

I also found that when I tried editing it, it seems to be locked or something.

Where are you seeing this?

I don't understand what you don't understand?  Did you read my article?

It's certainly not perfect, but it should prevent people from looking too closely at that area, and I figure that's all that's important.

Try this ... a Channel Mixer adjustment layer, with these values:

• Red 0, +95, 0
• Green 0, +110, 0
• Blue 0, +45, 0

Then invert the mask to hide the adjustment, then paint on gently with a low-opacity white brush.

Using a gradient layer to add some fake beams of light.

Download the file here.

Actually, I'm a fan of LG screens.  I've only used a couple of them, but I found them to be very good.

That one looks good.

Well, you'll need photos of water from other pools, I figure.  Either look through your own library of photos, or go to some stock websites to see if they have suitable ones.

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2012/01/light-around-your-computer.html

They are one way, yes.

Have you browsed the files in here?

There are some gradients there.

Or it's possibly you actually mean Gradient Maps?

2 minutes ago, Nilda lemus said:

they are just little dark i guess the difference from paper and screen

No, there should be no difference from paper to screen.  Either your screen is still too bright, or your room lighting is too dim.

5 minutes ago, JulieHunt said:

Sorry I haven't quite explained this properly.  On the SD card, the JPEGS are less than 1mb when they are usually around 8-10mb.  Even if I open the NEF to edit, when I crop, they are only coming up as 200kbs (not mbs).  This file size would not be acceptable for printing. 

Why not?  What's wrong with them?  What are their pixel dimensions?

Remind me which calibrator you have?

Sorry, I need a better explanation.  Fill in these blanks:

"My screen is __________ (colder/warmer) and ________________ (brighter/darker) than my prints"

http://www.damiensymonds.net/2015/08/about-jpeg-file-size.html

Because there's not much detail in them.  It's perfectly natural.

Gosh, that's odd.  You might need to do this.  Then calibrate again.

Ignore the before and after.  Go to Photoshop now, and compare the screen to your pro lab prints.

And were you able to achieve each of those?

Normal gamut, White LED.

Can you check to make doubly sure that your print files are sRGB?

And what white luminance target did you set for the Munki?  100?

2 minutes ago, Aubrey said:

no matter how much i increase or descrease the brightness on the monitor the little arrow never moves toward the middle. It doesn't move at all.

Can you visibly see the screen's brightness changing when you adjust it, though?

Of course there is.  Either the Spyder5Elite or the X-Rite i1Display Pro are more powerful.

But I am worried about this. I'd hate to see you buy a more expensive calibrator, only to find the same problems.  It just sounds like a poor screen to me.

Have you checked that you have the very latest version of the converter?  It's version 9.4.

9 hours ago, angelah said:

haha it's obvious! Okay so I think I'm going to go with the 6500 for my calibration. To me it looks closer to my prints right now. Excuse me if this seems stupid to ask but do I just tweak what I have on my screen to match what I now hoped it would be, being then closer to what I thought I did see originally when I ordered these prints I'm comparing to right now?

Right.