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  1. It's always been the same. I've not changed anything in a few years. LIght bulbs are white 6500k
    1 point
  2. I also have a D850, and the full resolution without and compression, at 14-bit produces around 100 MB Raw Files. (Well, ususally 98.xx or 99. xx, it's just easier to say 100MB Raw Files.) The NVIDIA Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe's Products, and the one's that you should be using. I'm not a fan of the "60" or "50" with NVIDIA's products, and prefer the "70" & "80" versions, i.e., RTX 4070 / RTX 4080. But it is what it is. The 4060's are cheap for manufacturers to install, that's why they use them. Anyway, yeah...you. might lose some stupid AI Crap, but it's not a big deal. At its core, Photoshop is still Photoshop, and it's likely you will probably never use those AI Tools, unless you go actively looking for them.
    1 point
  3. Ok, hopefully I really found the fix. I’ve been working on for well over an hour and no crashes. The screenshot is what was suggested on the adobe support form and it worked. I probably lost some AI features, but I don’t even know how to use them anyway. So for now, this totally works!
    1 point
  4. Are you sure the light in your room is bright and white enough? Room lighting is the #1 cause of non-matching.
    1 point
  5. Crisis averted. Updated to the Nvidia Studio Driver. Seems to be working good now. For now. LOL
    1 point
  6. Thanks Damien. Will reshoot instead
    1 point
  7. Also with this model, is that it has connectivity with your Mac via a USB cable. One proprietary end goes into the UPS, the other goes into a USB port. What this does is allows your Mac to "talk" to the UPS, and vice-versa, so you can set your Mac to power down when it reaches a certain level on the battery. You just have to head into your Power Settings in the macOS' Preferences. For example: I have my Mac set for 5 minutes, but you might want to set yours for 10 min if your power is often unpredictable. Oh! One thing to keep in mind, there is a "Battery Side" and a "Regular Surge Protector" Side. The Battery Side is mean for your Mac Studio, Display, and any external HDs. The Surge Protection Side is mean for things like speakers, lamps, Laser Printers, and the other non-important things. You never-ever want to hook up a Laser Printer to a UPS' Battery Side, it's too much Wattage and will kill the Batteries Prematurely. Speaking of External Hard Drives, you might find it's not easy to hook them all up, especially when dealing with Power Bricks. This is where 1 Foot Power Cables such as these come in handy: Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy Duty 13A Short Power Extension Cord - 1ft, 3 Prong Power Cord Extension, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R, Black Of course, you will need to find the equivalent by you, but I think you get the idea. Actually, I found this: UK British Standard Power M/F Extension Cord Cable,UK BS1363 Extension Cord, IEC UK 3Pin Male Plug to UK 3Pin Female Socket Power Adapter Cable,13A/250V (0.3m/1ft) You simply plug one of the Power Bricks into one of those 1 Foot Cables, then the other end goes into the UPS. They make things much easier to get things hooked up and fitting nicely. Of course, this is just a guide...PLEASE choose the correct cable for your area. I have no real-world experience with UK Power. .
    1 point
  8. Thanks for all the information Brian, I get regular power cuts in my village, so makes sense to get sorted with a decent one.
    1 point
  9. It worked, just me having a senior moment👵🙈 Thanks
    1 point
  10. Freefilesync still the best free one , also many tools are available now with full features especially for clouds like Syncback , Gs Richcopy 360 , Syncthing and Goodsync . every tool has its options which make it better , so search all
    1 point
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