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OMG my current card is scoring 437 hahaha no wonder it is slow haha

Hi Brian, Thank you for the wonderfully detailed directions to upgrade to Sonoma .. I have done so successfully / without issues! I just want to ensure anyone reading above knows you meant "Sonoma" and not "Sequoia" in your instructions (Steps 3, 4, 5 & 6) .. I knew you meant Sonoma .. so I went with that based on your second paragraph in your reply. Truly appreciate your help and giving me confidence in doing this upgrade without worry. Sandy

It's always been the same. I've not changed anything in a few years. LIght bulbs are white 6500k

I also have a D850, and the full resolution without and compression, at 14-bit produces around 100 MB Raw Files. (Well, ususally 98.xx or 99. xx, it's just easier to say 100MB Raw Files.) The NVIDIA Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe's Products, and the one's that you should be using. I'm not a fan of the "60" or "50" with NVIDIA's products, and prefer the "70" & "80" versions, i.e., RTX 4070 / RTX 4080. But it is what it is. The 4060's are cheap for manufacturers to install, that's why they use them. Anyway, yeah...you. might lose some stupid AI Crap, but it's not a big deal. At its core, Photoshop is still Photoshop, and it's likely you will probably never use those AI Tools, unless you go actively looking for them.

Ok, hopefully I really found the fix. I’ve been working on for well over an hour and no crashes. The screenshot is what was suggested on the adobe support form and it worked. I probably lost some AI features, but I don’t even know how to use them anyway. So for now, this totally works!

Are you sure the light in your room is bright and white enough? Room lighting is the #1 cause of non-matching.

Crisis averted. Updated to the Nvidia Studio Driver. Seems to be working good now. For now. LOL

Thanks Damien. Will reshoot instead

Also with this model, is that it has connectivity with your Mac via a USB cable. One proprietary end goes into the UPS, the other goes into a USB port. What this does is allows your Mac to "talk" to the UPS, and vice-versa, so you can set your Mac to power down when it reaches a certain level on the battery. You just have to head into your Power Settings in the macOS' Preferences. For example: I have my Mac set for 5 minutes, but you might want to set yours for 10 min if your power is often unpredictable. Oh! One thing to keep in mind, there is a "Battery Side" and a "Regular Surge Protector" Side. The Battery Side is mean for your Mac Studio, Display, and any external HDs. The Surge Protection Side is mean for things like speakers, lamps, Laser Printers, and the other non-important things. You never-ever want to hook up a Laser Printer to a UPS' Battery Side, it's too much Wattage and will kill the Batteries Prematurely. Speaking of External Hard Drives, you might find it's not easy to hook them all up, especially when dealing with Power Bricks. This is where 1 Foot Power Cables such as these come in handy: Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy Duty 13A Short Power Extension Cord - 1ft, 3 Prong Power Cord Extension, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R, Black Of course, you will need to find the equivalent by you, but I think you get the idea. Actually, I found this: UK British Standard Power M/F Extension Cord Cable,UK BS1363 Extension Cord, IEC UK 3Pin Male Plug to UK 3Pin Female Socket Power Adapter Cable,13A/250V (0.3m/1ft) You simply plug one of the Power Bricks into one of those 1 Foot Cables, then the other end goes into the UPS. They make things much easier to get things hooked up and fitting nicely. Of course, this is just a guide...PLEASE choose the correct cable for your area. I have no real-world experience with UK Power. .

Thanks for all the information Brian, I get regular power cuts in my village, so makes sense to get sorted with a decent one.

It worked, just me having a senior moment👵🙈 Thanks

That PC is not for Photoshop. AT ALL. Find another one. You do not need or have the software that will take advantage of a Intel Xeon Processor. In fact, Photoshop will likely run SLOWER. You aren't running some sort of Database Server with Windows Server 2019 with multiple CPUs with multiple cores on each processor. LOL!! No wonder why it has that video card. This computer was a Corporate Workstation or even a Server in a former life. Business-class software. Number-Crunching. Not Photoshop. This is like looking to purchase a Bulldozer when all you want to do is plant a small garden next to your house. Sure, a Bulldozer will work, but...why?

I'm so glad you asked, because I'm going to save you a bunch of money that you would have wasted. Quick Answer: SKIP THAT CARD!! Or, "That's a NO from me dog..." Take a look at PassMark's Software Video Card List for Photoshop. That website Adobe themselves links to for a list of Graphics Cards that have been tested with Photoshop. At this point in 2025, you want a PC Benchmark Score of 10,000 or better. As you can see, that graphics card rates as follows: My Radeon Card in my 2017 iMac performs better that that NVIDIA, and it's barely keeping up with PS CC 2023!! I won't dare attempting PS CC 2024, let alone PS CC 2025 with my current graphics card. So yeah, I know it sucks that things cost as much as they do, but I honestly hate wasting money on this shit.

OH!! One more thing!!! One of the primary reasons you want fresh copies of software, is that MANY programs are designed for the new Apple Silicon System on a Chip. Currently, with your older iMac, you have Intel CPU Based (x64) Software Programs. YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR "NATIVE APPLE SILICON" VERSIONS OF YOUR SOFTWARE TO GET THE PERFORMANCE BOOST / ADVANTAGE WITH THE NEW M4 MACS!!! (...and M1-M3 as well, for those who come across this thread.) Most of the time, the correct version will automatically download & install. But for those times you are given an option of what version to download, at this point with your new Mac, always choose the "Apple Silicon" version.

I would NOT use Time Machine to move your old files and such over to the new Mac. For the best results on that working, the macOS needs to really match, in my humble opinion. In your case, I would use Migration Assistant. How does Brian move from an old Mac to a new one? I setup a SMB Network Share and copy stuff manually from the old Mac to the new one over an Ethernet Connection. For those who don't want to get THAT Nerdy, you can use a blank EHD and shuttle things back and forth. Honestly, I like having FRESH COPIES of software installed and updated. I don't want older programs on my new Mac. When you are all finished, keep your old Mac for about 6 months or so. This way if you need something, you can always go back in time and grab the file(s). Just be sure to have all your license keys, PS Actions, PS Brushes and the like backed up. Plus...this will be an excellent time for you to create BACKUPS of those things.

Freefilesync still the best free one , also many tools are available now with full features especially for clouds like Syncback , Gs Richcopy 360 , Syncthing and Goodsync . every tool has its options which make it better , so search all