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If you prefer a third-party tool, besides Gs Richcopy360, there are robust options that offer advanced features, reporting, and a simpler user interface : ShareGate or Goodsync : Data migration tools known for its user-friendly interface, comprehensive reporting, and strong capabilities in handling content and security mapping between on-premises file shares and SharePoint Online.

Yeah...that's not gonna work, well not the way you are thinking. It's the NTFS and ACL Permission stuff that you are wanting, it's gonna be a bit of a PITA. SharePoint online mapping isn't automatic and you will likely have to deal with users/groups permissions. Your best bet is to use the Microsoft SharePoint Migration Tool. Or try GS RichCopy 360. It's been awhile since I messed with this sort of thing. I think you should search out some FB Computer Networking Groups to see if someone has already done this as my current knowledge is limited.

This is a 4th defective panel. I would return it and choose a different Make/Model. Monitors that are too blue, will make things look too cool, which then makes you overcompensate warming things up. Don’t live with this problem. Find another IPS Display.

I've moved this thread into Brian's area because he's much more intelligent than me. I suspect your 2080 might not be strong enough, but I don't know.

OMG my current card is scoring 437 hahaha no wonder it is slow haha

Hi Brian, Thank you for the wonderfully detailed directions to upgrade to Sonoma .. I have done so successfully / without issues! I just want to ensure anyone reading above knows you meant "Sonoma" and not "Sequoia" in your instructions (Steps 3, 4, 5 & 6) .. I knew you meant Sonoma .. so I went with that based on your second paragraph in your reply. Truly appreciate your help and giving me confidence in doing this upgrade without worry. Sandy

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For now I have rolled back to vs 26.5 and it is working properly. On MAC forum it appears to be a known issue and they are supposedly working on a fix.

It's "fine" or more along the lines of "Meh." The 4090 is complete overkill and is a waste of money for Photoshop, since it won't take advantage of what makes a 4090 so fast. (It's not programmed to.) Plus the LED Rainbow Keyboard, I'm not a fan. You are editing photos, and the color casts from that keyboard would drive me nuts. The Display, is a Matte Screen, which is nice, but I don't think it's truly a IPS-Based Display, which is one of my requirements for using a laptop to edit photos. This is a "Gaming Laptop" meant for FPS Games, and not the direction I would have you head in. For me, it's a pass. Save your money. The AI Stuff is a new thing, and as the years go on, will be more important. For now, Adobe is just starting to scratch the surface with it.

Awesome. I was hoping that she didn’t need to buy anything.

Those toggles irritate me so much!

DisplayPort has a higher bandwidth and refresh rates, so you can have multiple displays with a high resolution on one single port. HDMI is basically one Monitor per port. DisplayPort is also Royalty Free, so manufactures don't have to pay a licensing fee for each device. HDMI had ARC / eRC Tech, which is why you see them on TVs and they can not only transmit video, but also audio. Display Port has a more robust connector, usually with a release latch. HDMI is more universal because it's been around a lot longer. Basically, it's two technologies that are similar but have their own strengths. For me, I'd use a DisplayPort over a HDMI with a computer. 4K Resolution and DisplayPort just seems to "work" better, but this is due to the higher bandwidth with that technology type. For my Home Theater Setup, it's HDMI all the way. The choice for @KimMoore is based on WHAT she is using. If her Computer Monitor(s) are hooked up with a HDMI cable, then select HDMI. Likewise, if she is using a DisplayPort...then it's DisplayPort for the selection. Many higher end cards, like the NVIDIA RTX 4070 or RTX 4080 have both ports on them and it really depends on what you are using with your monitor.

Hold Up!!! Before buying anything, are you sure you using the latest version of the NVIDIA Studio Drivers for Windows 11? It seems that version 576.80 now supports the 5000 Series of NVIDIA's products. I also found this: Adobe Lightroom | Panning lags at 100% (1:1) zoom level | Windows 11 I also saw this: How can I override the default graphics processor for a program? Let's exhaust everything before you fork out money. I hate-hate-hate wasting money on this shit.

I need an accurate and easy alternative to Robocopy that I can use to copy about 1 TB from Windows Server 2022 to SharePoint Online. This tool needs to support copying attributes, time stamps, and NTFS ACLs permissions. Any helpful tool would be appreciated

I am taking a look at the Gs Richcopy website, and users reviews, sounds good . Will try the trial vesion .

TY and no worries - I have a MacBook PRO 2021 M1 with 64 GB of Ram and 1 TB disk - I began cleaning things up to upgrade it this weekend .. I get lazy and let things sit on my hard drives too long .. I know, I know .. they are headed to the NAS!! My desktop is at least clean!! Thank you again!

Nah doesn't work I'm in contact with Calibrite and they are helping me out atm, but thanks

I'd say you might have to make sure you don't have ANY other programs open (particularly Photoshop) while using Bridge. And restart pretty frequently.

Worked like a charm, exactly what I needed. Thank you!!!

Try this, but no promises. https://www.damiensymonds.net/act_cellulite.html

Mine just arrived. Thanks!

That's the current version of the HD that I own, though I have heard mixed reviews about the current G-Drives since Sandisk bought them. Regardless, I'd still buy one. Give it a shot. Let me know when you get one, I want to make sure the partition is setup correctly.

That's what I figured. I'll look into them, thank you. At 6 years old, probably better to save my money for a new computer than fix at Apple.

Yeah, that might be better.

That's Brilliant Thanks so much! 🙂

Phew! I'm glad I asked! I literally spent hours searching for all the right specs, and my brain was getting fried. I will get that one and remember to turn off the ambient light sensor. I am not a mac user, I am ordering a new PC as well, but I just went to Dell and added in all the stuff you wrote about in this thread -- Thank you!

There are a number of ways you could have done it, and yes, this is one. Looks good. I am SO glad you asked this. Lots of people never even think of it. The number of time I see an out-of-focus sky replaced with an in-focus one, it makes me sick. I can't tell from this distance whether you need to blur it or not. But if you think you do, don't ignore than instinct. Always get bigger than you need.

1. No, definitely not. 2. No, all pixel editing should be done first. Add the moon before starting levels.

No, nothing of substance has changed. Everything you learned in class is still relevant.

Yeah, that might be okay.

It's always been the same. I've not changed anything in a few years. LIght bulbs are white 6500k

I also have a D850, and the full resolution without and compression, at 14-bit produces around 100 MB Raw Files. (Well, ususally 98.xx or 99. xx, it's just easier to say 100MB Raw Files.) The NVIDIA Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe's Products, and the one's that you should be using. I'm not a fan of the "60" or "50" with NVIDIA's products, and prefer the "70" & "80" versions, i.e., RTX 4070 / RTX 4080. But it is what it is. The 4060's are cheap for manufacturers to install, that's why they use them. Anyway, yeah...you. might lose some stupid AI Crap, but it's not a big deal. At its core, Photoshop is still Photoshop, and it's likely you will probably never use those AI Tools, unless you go actively looking for them.

Ok, hopefully I really found the fix. I’ve been working on for well over an hour and no crashes. The screenshot is what was suggested on the adobe support form and it worked. I probably lost some AI features, but I don’t even know how to use them anyway. So for now, this totally works!

Are you sure the light in your room is bright and white enough? Room lighting is the #1 cause of non-matching.

Crisis averted. Updated to the Nvidia Studio Driver. Seems to be working good now. For now. LOL

Thanks Damien. Will reshoot instead

Also with this model, is that it has connectivity with your Mac via a USB cable. One proprietary end goes into the UPS, the other goes into a USB port. What this does is allows your Mac to "talk" to the UPS, and vice-versa, so you can set your Mac to power down when it reaches a certain level on the battery. You just have to head into your Power Settings in the macOS' Preferences. For example: I have my Mac set for 5 minutes, but you might want to set yours for 10 min if your power is often unpredictable. Oh! One thing to keep in mind, there is a "Battery Side" and a "Regular Surge Protector" Side. The Battery Side is mean for your Mac Studio, Display, and any external HDs. The Surge Protection Side is mean for things like speakers, lamps, Laser Printers, and the other non-important things. You never-ever want to hook up a Laser Printer to a UPS' Battery Side, it's too much Wattage and will kill the Batteries Prematurely. Speaking of External Hard Drives, you might find it's not easy to hook them all up, especially when dealing with Power Bricks. This is where 1 Foot Power Cables such as these come in handy: Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy Duty 13A Short Power Extension Cord - 1ft, 3 Prong Power Cord Extension, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R, Black Of course, you will need to find the equivalent by you, but I think you get the idea. Actually, I found this: UK British Standard Power M/F Extension Cord Cable,UK BS1363 Extension Cord, IEC UK 3Pin Male Plug to UK 3Pin Female Socket Power Adapter Cable,13A/250V (0.3m/1ft) You simply plug one of the Power Bricks into one of those 1 Foot Cables, then the other end goes into the UPS. They make things much easier to get things hooked up and fitting nicely. Of course, this is just a guide...PLEASE choose the correct cable for your area. I have no real-world experience with UK Power. .

Thanks for all the information Brian, I get regular power cuts in my village, so makes sense to get sorted with a decent one.

It worked, just me having a senior moment👵🙈 Thanks

That PC is not for Photoshop. AT ALL. Find another one. You do not need or have the software that will take advantage of a Intel Xeon Processor. In fact, Photoshop will likely run SLOWER. You aren't running some sort of Database Server with Windows Server 2019 with multiple CPUs with multiple cores on each processor. LOL!! No wonder why it has that video card. This computer was a Corporate Workstation or even a Server in a former life. Business-class software. Number-Crunching. Not Photoshop. This is like looking to purchase a Bulldozer when all you want to do is plant a small garden next to your house. Sure, a Bulldozer will work, but...why?

I'm so glad you asked, because I'm going to save you a bunch of money that you would have wasted. Quick Answer: SKIP THAT CARD!! Or, "That's a NO from me dog..." Take a look at PassMark's Software Video Card List for Photoshop. That website Adobe themselves links to for a list of Graphics Cards that have been tested with Photoshop. At this point in 2025, you want a PC Benchmark Score of 10,000 or better. As you can see, that graphics card rates as follows: My Radeon Card in my 2017 iMac performs better that that NVIDIA, and it's barely keeping up with PS CC 2023!! I won't dare attempting PS CC 2024, let alone PS CC 2025 with my current graphics card. So yeah, I know it sucks that things cost as much as they do, but I honestly hate wasting money on this shit.

OH!! One more thing!!! One of the primary reasons you want fresh copies of software, is that MANY programs are designed for the new Apple Silicon System on a Chip. Currently, with your older iMac, you have Intel CPU Based (x64) Software Programs. YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR "NATIVE APPLE SILICON" VERSIONS OF YOUR SOFTWARE TO GET THE PERFORMANCE BOOST / ADVANTAGE WITH THE NEW M4 MACS!!! (...and M1-M3 as well, for those who come across this thread.) Most of the time, the correct version will automatically download & install. But for those times you are given an option of what version to download, at this point with your new Mac, always choose the "Apple Silicon" version.

I would NOT use Time Machine to move your old files and such over to the new Mac. For the best results on that working, the macOS needs to really match, in my humble opinion. In your case, I would use Migration Assistant. How does Brian move from an old Mac to a new one? I setup a SMB Network Share and copy stuff manually from the old Mac to the new one over an Ethernet Connection. For those who don't want to get THAT Nerdy, you can use a blank EHD and shuttle things back and forth. Honestly, I like having FRESH COPIES of software installed and updated. I don't want older programs on my new Mac. When you are all finished, keep your old Mac for about 6 months or so. This way if you need something, you can always go back in time and grab the file(s). Just be sure to have all your license keys, PS Actions, PS Brushes and the like backed up. Plus...this will be an excellent time for you to create BACKUPS of those things.

Hi Brian, my Mum's old Windows 10 computer is starting to tell her that it will cease getting support and updates from this October. It can't upgrade to W11 (I checked), so how urgently should I tell her to invest in a new computer?

Freefilesync still the best free one , also many tools are available now with full features especially for clouds like Syncback , Gs Richcopy 360 , Syncthing and Goodsync . every tool has its options which make it better , so search all

Plain lustre is fine. No texture, and definitely nothing glossy.

I am not a huge fan of this look. But to achieve it, use two blur layers at different levels of Gaussian blur, then "Levels 1" and "Photo Filter 1" to add warmth, "Levels 2" and "Levels 3" to manipulate the background light, then "Levels 4" for the matte effect and "Levels 5" (below it) for the nauseating vignette. Then lastly, "Levels 6" because I realised that the shoes were just glowing too darn much. Download the file here.