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OMG my current card is scoring 437 hahaha no wonder it is slow haha

Hi Brian, Thank you for the wonderfully detailed directions to upgrade to Sonoma .. I have done so successfully / without issues! I just want to ensure anyone reading above knows you meant "Sonoma" and not "Sequoia" in your instructions (Steps 3, 4, 5 & 6) .. I knew you meant Sonoma .. so I went with that based on your second paragraph in your reply. Truly appreciate your help and giving me confidence in doing this upgrade without worry. Sandy

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For now I have rolled back to vs 26.5 and it is working properly. On MAC forum it appears to be a known issue and they are supposedly working on a fix.

It's "fine" or more along the lines of "Meh." The 4090 is complete overkill and is a waste of money for Photoshop, since it won't take advantage of what makes a 4090 so fast. (It's not programmed to.) Plus the LED Rainbow Keyboard, I'm not a fan. You are editing photos, and the color casts from that keyboard would drive me nuts. The Display, is a Matte Screen, which is nice, but I don't think it's truly a IPS-Based Display, which is one of my requirements for using a laptop to edit photos. This is a "Gaming Laptop" meant for FPS Games, and not the direction I would have you head in. For me, it's a pass. Save your money. The AI Stuff is a new thing, and as the years go on, will be more important. For now, Adobe is just starting to scratch the surface with it.

Awesome. I was hoping that she didn’t need to buy anything.

Those toggles irritate me so much!

DisplayPort has a higher bandwidth and refresh rates, so you can have multiple displays with a high resolution on one single port. HDMI is basically one Monitor per port. DisplayPort is also Royalty Free, so manufactures don't have to pay a licensing fee for each device. HDMI had ARC / eRC Tech, which is why you see them on TVs and they can not only transmit video, but also audio. Display Port has a more robust connector, usually with a release latch. HDMI is more universal because it's been around a lot longer. Basically, it's two technologies that are similar but have their own strengths. For me, I'd use a DisplayPort over a HDMI with a computer. 4K Resolution and DisplayPort just seems to "work" better, but this is due to the higher bandwidth with that technology type. For my Home Theater Setup, it's HDMI all the way. The choice for @KimMoore is based on WHAT she is using. If her Computer Monitor(s) are hooked up with a HDMI cable, then select HDMI. Likewise, if she is using a DisplayPort...then it's DisplayPort for the selection. Many higher end cards, like the NVIDIA RTX 4070 or RTX 4080 have both ports on them and it really depends on what you are using with your monitor.

It is!! Thank you for your Donation!!

Yeah, that might be better.

That's Brilliant Thanks so much! 🙂

Phew! I'm glad I asked! I literally spent hours searching for all the right specs, and my brain was getting fried. I will get that one and remember to turn off the ambient light sensor. I am not a mac user, I am ordering a new PC as well, but I just went to Dell and added in all the stuff you wrote about in this thread -- Thank you!

There are a number of ways you could have done it, and yes, this is one. Looks good. I am SO glad you asked this. Lots of people never even think of it. The number of time I see an out-of-focus sky replaced with an in-focus one, it makes me sick. I can't tell from this distance whether you need to blur it or not. But if you think you do, don't ignore than instinct. Always get bigger than you need.

Thanks for the quick answer. When I need a print in Sydney, I'll ask you where to go. 🙂

I know! I generally wait until it gets stable before do anything. I'll set on this for a while and be very content! Thanks!

Hello Damien! Thanks for asking! Yes, the Spyder is here. But I am still waiting for my prints. The lab is slow. But I will let you know when I have them.

Problem solved, Damien! Our firewall was blocking the activation. Thanks for your help!

Yes, try installing and activating on another computer.

No issues at all, as long as E drive is internal.

I’ve been away but will sort some soon

Hell, even an older NVIDIA RTX 3070 is $1150. You are not going to get a video card for $800. The 4070 seems to be around the $1500 price-point, but it's sold out. ***SIGH*** As much as I hate to recommend this, since you have an older system, something like a NVIDIA 4060 might be in your budget. It should work, JUST BE SURE TO INSTALL & USE THE NVIDIA STUDIO DRIVERS AND NOT THE ONES THAT COME WITH THE CARD. Even though I recommend at least a 4070 / 4080, in this circumstance and your budget, with an older PC...it will be WAY BETTER than what you currently have. Plus, $564.50 is probably an easier pill to swallow. I also tend to like MSI Video Cards, as Gigabyte's support has really gone down-hill in recent years. I'm buying either a EVGA or MSI product if it were my money.

Yep, that video 4070 video card should work. Hopefully your Power Supply will support it, otherwise you will be upgrading that as well. Besides Amazon, two places that you can buy stuff from: NEWEGG Micro Center Amazon is usually "fine," if it's being sold and shipped from Amazon. It's when you buy stuff from their 3rd-parties is when you can have the most issues. If it's not from Amazon and shipped via Amazon Prime, chances are I'm not buying it. Hell, I never buy stuff from eBay, but that's just me. EDIT!!! It looks like both of those places aren't viable. Newegg seems to be shipping directly from China, and the prices are around the $1500 mark, for just the video card. Micro Center doesn't have any 4070 cards, and they seem to be pushing the 5000 series cards. I would hold off and save up. You are likely going to throw money away as I'm not 100% convinced that a new card will work with your older Motherboard. Downgrade to an older version of Photoshop and hopefully that will work for you. A $3000 budget for a new computer is realistic in 2025. I know, you can't afford it. Why do you think I'm still on PS CC 2023 with my 2017 iMac? PS: The reason you can't click "Buy Now" on NVIDIA's site, is they are linking to Micro Center's Website. Micro Center is flat-out sold out. The $799 price tag is probably from late 2024; it's a new Ballgame with stuff coming from China in 2025. The Tariff's are making things more expensive. ...and people often question me on why I recommend such high-end / expensive stuff...it's to cut down on this very situation. I configure my systems for Photoshop a few years from now, not the current versions of software.

Yep. That is true. In addition, Video Graphics Cards have become "Computers within Computers," and software products like Adobe Photoshop have taken advantage of this fact. It this processing power and dedicated video memory that makes them so fast and ideal for Bitcoin, that drives up the prices. Now add the 10% Tariffs from China, and all of this computer shit is made in China, so there's that. I just tweaked my Buying a Computer in 2025 article, since the Dell XPS Desktop Line that I used to recommend for years, has been replaced. The good news is, the computer I just configured is a little cheaper. The bad news is, it's about $2600. The days of the "999 Special" from a Big Box Store are over. Those computers happened 20 years ago. Everything today is more expensive. Hell, my wife just bought a pound of Beef for Tacos, which will be tonight's dinner. It was $10.24!!! For a fucking pound of Ground Beef!!! I remember when something like that was around $5-ish! I just did a quick CPI Inflation Calculator, to see what "999.99" in 1995 would be in today's money. It works out to be $2122.95. Which if you think about it, is more along the lines of $1199.99-ish back then. So yesterday's $1200 model is the $2600 model that I configured. So what can you do? You will need to un-install / downgrade to an older version of Photoshop CC AND STAY THERE!!! NO UPGRADING FOR YOU!!! NOT YOURS!!! NO MATTER HOW MUCH THE ADOBE MOTHER-SHIP BUGS YOU THAT THERE IS AN UPDATE!! Bottom Line: I'd look to install PS CC 2023 and see how that works for you.

Sorry to bother you. I fixed it! I was just stumped because some worked and some didn't and assumed a setting on the external. It was a "Mac" setting but why some worked and some didn't still doesn't make sense but adding it to privacy & security full access did the trick. I'm not sure I'm going to survive this new hard drive. Small glitches occurring every day!

"Meh," I'd delete that shit

I appreciate you taking the time to help me with this issue

The Apple Studio Display uses a Thunderbolt Cable, there should be one in the box, to hook up to the current Macs. It doesn't have a DisplayPort or HDMI Port.

I like FREE too. I have been saving my points for something good. I ordered it and it will be at my house by Monday. Ok Thanks for the heads up for the calibration question.

OK, first things first. We need to verify how that Sandisk is Partitioned. So attach the drive to your computer and head to Disk Management. (Right Click on the Start Button & you should see it.) From there post a screen shot of the Disk Management Screen, as you did above. I did a Screenshot of mine with my 1TB Sandisk Highlighted. As you can see, my drive is currently set to exFAT, which is what we DO NOT WANT. So post a screenshot so I can see what file system it's on. Note: Don't read too much into my example, as I'm working on a Virtual Machine. Currently my 1TB External Sandisk is configured for a 50GB HD. The steps I'm going to give you are the same, so don't worry.

So if you want easy? I'd get the SanDisk 4TB Portable SSD Drive. It also seems to be on sale. Most likely it will come pre-formatted with exFAT, so we will need to clear that first and convert it to NTFS. (Which will give you practice for the WD 2TB Elements Drive.) To convert a drive, it honestly takes like 30 seconds. LOL!! It's not a big deal. Now if money is a problem, you could go lower, say a 2TB Version for $132-ish. I personally would not go any lower in terms of capacity for data storage in 2025. You really want 4TB or larger, IMHO. Let me know when you get your new drive and I will post screenshots telling you what to do. It's really-really-really easy. In fact, you are halfway there, since you now know about Disk Manager!

The file itself won't be affected, but the Metadata that Dropbox adds will be lost. In addition, if the files that you are copying / moving from the local HD to the External HD, and you are getting this message, is likely due to the External HD being Partitioned with the stupid exFAT Partition Type and not NTFS. Personally, I hate-hate-hate exFAT. Why do I not like exFAT? Because unlike NTFS, or macOS Extended (Journaled), exFAT if you have a system failure or some sort of crash, power outage, or bad un-mount (such as your pet accidentally pulling out the cable to the drive), you could lose your entire volume, with no chance of recovery. If the drive that's created with exFAT goes Ka-Plooey, you are screwed. The reason the Manufacturers use it, is due to that the Macintosh and Windows Systems can read/write to it, so it cuts down on support calls. The chances of Data Recovery with NTFS or the Apple macOS Extended (Journaled,) notice the word Journaled...meaning the OS keeps "Tabs" on your files, are much better than exFAT. Using exFAT is fine for advanced users that know the risks, and have complete duplicates of drives at all times, so that if a drive fails, it's more of a nuisance than anything. It's not for the average person who just puts files on a EHD and then doesn't go further with backups. How do you fix this? You will need a blank, preferably larger EHD, and copy ALL of the files from the existing exFAT Drive. Then you delete that exFAT Partition on the original drive and then create a new NTFS Partition with the Windows Disk Manager. Then you copy all your files back from the temporary EHD. It's actually not that hard to do, and there are wizards you use to accomplish this. How do you figure this stuff out? Right Click on the Start Button and select Disk Management. From there you should see all of your Hard Drives. In the middle you should see a column labeled "File System." Then look down to the various drives that are mounted and you should see either NTFS, exFAT or even FAT32. If there are any drives that are labeled exFAT, you are playing with fire when it comes to your data, and we need to get the Partition Type switched over.

You are going to have to turn on "Selective Sync" and not backup the "Dropbox Folder" automatically or create sub-folders in the Dropbox and just backup those. Or manually log into the web interface, and backup each file manually. Can't have your Cake and Eat it too. This is the downside to Cloud Backup, the files in the "Cloud" are synced to ones stored locally. Dropbox and other Cloud Services aren't like having External Hard Drives. Files are in two places at all times. If you delete things locally, MANY Cloud Services will auto-delete the files stored on their servers after a period of 30 days or so. Or you are going to have to replace your internal hard drive with something larger if you want to auto-backup everything. Of course, you will probably need to pay for more Dropbox Storage, since getting a larger hard drive often involves in storing more stuff. (Kinda like Tool Boxes. ) Click the Dropbox icon in your taskbar. Click your avatar (profile picture or initials) in the top-right corner. Click Preferences. Click the Sync tab. Under Selective Sync (Windows), click Modify. Check or uncheck the folders you’d like to save or remove on your hard drive. Click Update. Now if none of this sounds like a good option, I want you to attack that Dropbox Folder and cull-cull-cull. This also includes your online Dropbox Folder.

Actually, the specs needed for Photoshop CC is a Gaming PC. I would not buy a NVIDIA RTX 4060. Get either a 4070 or 4080. As far as the Intel ARC Video Card, never heard of it. Photoshop likes NVIDIA Drivers. In fact, there are drivers that are known as the "NVIDIA Studio Drivers," which are meant for Photoshop usage. From NVIDIA's Website: Basically, the Studio Drivers are meant for Adobe's current products. Give this article a read: Buying a Windows Computer in 2025

https://www.damiensymonds.net/2013/11/maintain-your-professional-standards.html

No clicking can be a "good" thing, as the clicking noise is the HD heads scrapping against the platters creating dust that contains your data. See this video to demonstrate what I'm talking about. That scenario is the worst thing you can have happen. Now, LaCie uses cheap Seagate HDs, and that's why I stopped really recommending them. I'd contact Gillware and have them give you a quote. It's one thing if you can access the drive; that gives you a chance to use recovery software. It's whole other thing if you can't get to the drive at all. Before you ask, "What EHD do you recommend?" Honestly? None at this point. They are ALL practically garbage, made from the cheapest components, from the lowest bidder for the parts. I seriously am thinking about recommending folks buy and internal high-quality drive, then buy a $20 external case to switch it over to an external. This way you can be sure of what drive you are getting. This is also why you should have your data backed up in multiple places and one even kept off-site. But that's a whole other thread.

I see it. That's cool.

Thank you very much. I promise to turn off my computer every day.

You aren't going to like this. Apple has made it so that the only display that will look good (like you are used to / the Apple Macintosh Experience) is the stupidly over-priced Apple Studio Display for $1599. You will want the Standard Glass version. It's only money, right? "1600?!?!!!" Surely there must be another cheaper alternative!!! Here is the thing... Apple changed the signal coming out of the HDMI port. I found this out from a tech bulletin put out by Eizo, who make really high-end displays. They were the ones to discover this. According to the bulletin, "When using HDMI on a Mac computer, the signal from the Mac computer may change to YUV Limited Range and banding may occur." So in a nutshell, the only display that will look good on a Mac Laptop is a Apple Studio Display. Yes, Apple does this on purpose. Just think, when you use Apple Branded Cables for your iPhones & iPads, magically data transfer speeds improve dramatically than if you used a 3rd party (aka cheap) cable. See a theme here? Apple does this shit all-the-time. Anyway, back to the Eizo Tech Bulletin... Meaning, your colors might be a little off, and banding may occur. Apple doesn't do 4K very well, and things like text look like crap, and Apple really-really-really wants you to use their 5K Displays. Of course, as time goes on, 3rd party manufactures will adapt, but I will say this... Every member in Ask Damien who went the cheap route going with a 3rd party display were not satisfied and ended up forking out the $1599 at the end. One member went through 3 third party displays an was only happy when she bought the Apple Studio Display. Even with the $1299 LG Display that Apple helped design...just fork out the extra $300 and be done with it. So honestly? Save yourself the stress and just save up. Because you are going to end up there any way. Of course, at the end-of-the-day, it's your money. If you do go the 3rd party route, let me know what you picked and how your experience was. I hate having to recommend a stupid $1600 display.

Definitely!! Driving me silly (it doesn't take much!). I just did the one folder and can't tell but I may just need to do all of them. I opened a few other folders and they didn't show until I clicked on one edited and then it changed but I can handle that for a one time thing! Leave it to me to find something new for you.

Right, because you haven't finished the Raw Class yet.

They sure will.

I'm so glad you'll get to see it in real life. I'm always so nervous about people ordering screens online.

I’ve managed to do it now. I had to download it about 3 times because on the first two when I double clicked it said I didn’t have anything to open it with. Then it went to an .au file then eventually it worked. I have used it and tested it. Thank you

Sorry, I haven't actually looked at your screen, because I got distracted by this comment: You MUST make sure the teens know that your monitor is calibrated for imaging, and if they touch the monitor's settings (brightness, colour, contrast) even a tiny bit, they'll be grounded for a million f&*king years. Agreed?

You helped save a lot of time in second guessing. I was on the right track following your tutorials but obviously something wasn’t adding up until I had your assistance. Thanks so much! I’m almost done with the backdrops and found this helpful as well to blend the backdrop better on the photos that didn’t technically need a full replacement. I just lowered the opacity of the gradient and continued to mask each photo.

If you go to my search page, and begin to type "Gradie..." you'll find a few resources.

I like the MSI Motherboards, and the Asus ROG models. That MSI should be fine. I'd buy it.

I'm slowly adding things back. So far, so good. You are awesome!

That laptop is fine. I'd use that until you can get your Desktop straightened out.

OK @JudyM, I've completed the Tutorial on "How to Make Aliases." Now, for the second part of your issue: Speed. While it's true that having all sorts of crap on a Mac Desktop slows things down, it's not the only culprit. There are two Main Suspects: Lack of RAM and Lack of HD Storage Space. Before we begin, can you do this for me and post the results in this thread? Details About Your Computer's Health.