Brian

The latest version of Adobe CC products, i.e. Photoshop, Bridge, seem to have all sorts of issues. When an update hits, it fixes some things but breaks others. So a format is the absolute last resort because I'd hate for you to nuke the HD, only to re-install the latest version of Photoshop CC / Bridge CC and be right back into the same spot. The only reason that you should format is if the 2019 versions do not work as well. Then I can say it might be a Windows issue. Actually, there is one test you can run. Head to the Start Menu and (just start typing) type CMD. The CMD Prompt will pop up at the top. Now hold up, the next step is important! Right-Click on the CMD at the top of the Start Menu and select "Run as Administrator." A command box will appear. Type the following command: sfc /scannow Press enter. The Windows System File Checker will do its thing. Go get coffee or watch Netflix. This will take a few minutes. Hopefully it will repair stuff or not find any other issues.

How old is your Mac? Need Model / Year. I have a couple of recommendations.

Honestly, at this point, I would try using Bridge 2019 if you could. The 2020 versions of PS and Bridge are really quirky and have all sorts of bugs. In fact, Bridge and Ps CC were just updated to completely new versions. I think these updates were pushed out a few days ago. I’d try updating and see how that goes for you. Other than that, I’m thinking of a format of the HD and reinstall of windows/everything. Something is botched up and I have no idea why.

Do you happen to have "CleanMyMac" from Macpaw.com? We could reset your preferences file by hand, but it's easier to run the "Maintenance Scripts" in CleanMyMac. Also, I use a program called Raw Right Away, which works really well and it isn't too expensive. It's about $8 and it works much better than the default Preview Program that comes with the Mac OS. Here is the link for Raw Right Away.

Yeah, you want your pagefile.sys and PS Scratch Disk on the D Drive. Your main drive capacity is microscopic by today's standards.

What size is your C Drive? How much is free? Same thing for your D Drive. How large and how much is free? Also what version of Windows are we talking about? I'm going to assume you are on Windows 10. If you have a large D Drive, and a small C Drive, then it might be in your best interest to not only move the Photoshop Scratch Disk, but also the Windows Swap File, aka Pagefile.sys. Here is a decent web page giving your instructions on how to move the Windows Pagefile.sys to the D Drive: How to move Virtual Memory to a Different Drive on Windows 10 As for setting the Scratch Disk, it's pretty easy. You will be interested in Part 4 of this Article. Even though it's in the Macintosh Group, the steps are nearly identical. All you have to do is the following: Open Photoshop Click the Edit Menu Look for "Preferences" Head to the Scratch Disk Section Put a check mark next to the D Drive, then uncheck the C Drive Click Apply / OK Close and reopen Photoshop. Easy Peasy. But still give my article a read, there is more PS setup stuff that you need to check. As far as Bridge, I'm sure it's a similar kind of process, but you might have to ask Damien on that one.

It's possible, and I will warn you, it's a bit of a pain in the ass. Apple makes things really easy going from a Windows Computer to a Mac, but not the other way around. If you have decent internet speed, you could try some sort of cloud service, such as Dropbox, One-Drive, Google Drive, etc. That is probably the easiest way. Otherwise, you are using a blank (new) EHD, partitioned and formatted on a PC, then you would use software on your Mac to act as a translator. Unfortunately, it seems the software that I once ran doesn't seem to be around any longer, which complicates things. That said, there is one program that you will need to buy and it's been around forever. It's called Paragon HFS+ and it's $20. This software you install on your Windows Computer and then all you have to do is hook up your external Mac Formatted HD to your Windows PC and the Paragon software should be able to access it. Here is the website: HFS+ for Windows by Paragon Software. Then copy the files from the Mac Drive to a New Windows External Drive, formatted with NTFS and if it's above 4TB, it will use a GPT-based Partition. The easiest way is to obtain a 32GB USB Flash Drive, make sure you format it to a FAT32 Partition on the Windows Computer, and then copy and paste files. Why 32GB? Because FAT32 really was only meant to go up to 32GB. Why format it on a Windows Computer? For whatever reason, I have found Partitioning drives that are meant to be on a Windows Computer should be partitioned and formatted on said Windows computer. Apple's MacOS doesn't always create a FAT32 Partition correctly, and I don't know why. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. Now 32GB these days won't help you when you have multiple Terabytes of data, which leads to the next paragraph. The other way is to turn on file sharing, and this is a complicated process. For Techie-Nerds like myself, it's not too bad. For the majority of people out there, it's a "Science Project." It also really helps things if your Windows computer is the "Professional" version and not the "Home" Edition, (i.e. Windows 10 Pro.) The Pro versions make networking so much easier, it's built for this sort of thing. In any case, you will use COPY & PASTE and NOT CUT AND PASTE. You want to keep your source files intact; this way if anything were to screw up, you can do things over again. When you Cut/Move files, it deletes the source file. Anyway, it's best to make your IP addresses on all computers Static and I'd create a special login account on your Windows computer that is just meant for file transfer and establish a Workgroup. If these terms sound a bit new to you, then File-sharing might be a bit of a challenge, though doable. When it's all said and done, I'd buy a new External Drive and get the Paragon Software.

No. It's Catalina or Bust! Apple stopped "Signing Off" (Authorizing) the older Operating Systems. So even if you found someone who has a ThumbDrive with a High Sierra or whatever, chances are it won't work. But I'm not 100% sure on this one. I do know for a fact that if you upgraded to Catalina, you can not downgrade / change your mind. Unfortunately, as time goes on, it's going to get harder and harder to avoid upgrading. You have a 2011 iMac. Honestly, it's time for a new one. Here is why and what I have found in all these 40+ years that I've been dorking around with this stuff: Year 1: Person buys a new computer. Year 2: They seem happy with their purchase, if anything were to fail with their computer, this is when it will happen. Year 3: New Technology is released, marketing buzzwords usually involve "Next Level" or "Game Changer." Year 4 : Computer starts to become a bit slow, loses it's "Newness" and "Luster." But it still works and suits the person's needs. Year 5: Software development starts to take over the computer in its initial configuration, which results in some sort of upgrades. Such as: More RAM Larger Capacity Hard Drive. Better Graphics Card, possibly upgrading power supply as well to support new video card. Year 6: Upgrades seem to do the trick; life-span of the computer meets with the demand of current software and is extended for the moment. Year 7-8: Software exceeds Hardware. New Operating Systems will no longer work well on older technology, and current software programs demand more resources than what the computer will allow. The search for a new computer begins, resulting in purchasing new equipment. The cycle then repeats. You have a 2011 iMac. It's 2020. That's 9 Years, and I'd say that has been a very good run. Start saving, Edit: I went through the same exact thing. My 2009 iMac worked well with my D700 and D4s. Then I bought a Nikon D850 and that stupid camera has costed me so much money. New Lenses, New Computer which had to be upgraded to 64GB, and new External 12TB Hard Drive. I feel your pain. I have spent thousands on this shit.

If you can afford it, I highly recommend (and own) a Thunderbolt 3 G-Drive. If you have a brand new iMac, and it sounds like you do, it is in your best interest to get a Thunderbolt 3-based EHD. The nice part with the G-Drives is they include all the necessary cables, and have high-quality hard drives contained inside. Meaning, they are NOT the $79 Special from Best Buy. Those drives I never recommend. Also, G-Drives are formatted for use with the Mac by default. Meaning all you have to do is hook it up and start working. The only downside is they are a bit pricey. But in my humble opinion, out of all the things you don't want to cheap out on, it's the hard drive that your data will reside. Here is where I bought my 12TB G-Drive, which has been replaced by the 14TB model. Personally, I'd get at least 6TB, and if you can swing it, something larger like 10TB or even 14TB. Edit: Why a TB3 EHD instead of a USB 3.0 model? In a word: Speed. TB3 is FAST. In fact, TB3 is so fast that I actually work off my External HD when editing photos rather than the main drive. A TB3 EHD is really like an extension of your computer.

Oh, BTW...I have expensive tastes. Every time I “configure” a computer build, I always end up at a $2800 price-Point. LOL!! That’s why I didn’t link to anything.

By default, the MacOS will READ and Windows Formatted HD, but NOT WRITE TO IT. You aren't doing anything "wrong," except trying to write to a Windows EHD. This way makes it easy to convert from Windows to Mac. But if you want to go back and forth between the two worlds, you will need software to act as a translator, but I will warn you, this type of software isn't 100% fool proof. In reality, Apple wants you to pick a platform (Windows or Mac) and stick with it. Honestly? What I would do is invest in a new EHD, format / partition it to use with the Mac and save your images that you edited on your Mac to the Mac EHD. Going back and forth between Windows and a Macintosh is a bit of a PITA.

16GB RAM in the Minimum I would get these days. Honestly? I'd get 32GB to start with. A Intel i9 won't be much "better," sure it's a little faster, but it isn't earth shattering as compared to a really fast and beefy Intel i7. I'd rather you get a better motherboard and a fast i7 than to blow all your cash on a i9 CPU. I like Asus, Gigabyte and MSI Motherboards. Make sure you get CPU Paste! LOL!! Samsung 1TB m.2 Drive for your main one should be fine. I'd get that over SSD with a new MLB.

Yeah...contact Canon. You have a bad sensor. That's not dust and I'm seeing some "Banding" on the left side with one of the photos. No, you can't fix or clean your way out of this one. Contact Canon and schedule a repair with them. The sooner the better. Also, a quick Google Search yielded other people with this problem.

What type of video card is installed? Does it have its own dedicated memory or does it use the RAM? Also, 132GB out of 500 is a bit low, especially if you have a high MP (24MP+) camera. On the surface, can you get that RAM up to 32GB and move things off that HD?

Can you post a photo? if your sensor has been “cleaned” the only thing I can think of is you have dead pixels in your Camera’s sensor. Usually it’s when you set your Aperture to f/16 and shoot something bright / clean will you see dust spots. I’ve never heard of underexposure causing this issue. Also, try using a different lens just for giggles. You might get lucky and find out the problem is with the lens. Especially Zoom lenses. Usually I will get a response, “...but I never take the lens off!” If it’s a zoom, sometimes dust can work its way in the control rings when you zoom in and out. Especially if you are in dusty areas, like the beach or in a desert.

Oh, and if you are wondering what's next? When you get your new camera, LEARN ALL OF YOUR FOCUS MODES!! Don't worry about fancy editing and toys with your camera. Learn the focus modes. All of them. Know which ones to use and when, and know which modes to avoid due to your shooting style. Then start playing with all the menus and such.

Oh yeah. Even at 40GB on my fancy 2017 iMac those files didn't really "flow" that well in PS until I upgraded to 64GB. I just shot my son's Engagement Photos yesterday and I took my D4s, since it's better in low light (and it's faster.) I edited some of those D4s files today and the difference between a 20MB Raw file and a 100MB Raw file is quite obvious. Also, when it comes to a D850...you need the best glass to go with it. That stupid camera has costed me so much money. I had to buy the newer 24-70 f/2.8E and a 70-200 f/2.8 E lens just to feed those 45MPs. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't have purchased a D850 and held off buying anything. Oh well. My next body will probably be a Mirrorless. As far as the laptop, I would go for the non-touch display. Thinks also don't always scale correctly when using 4K on a 15" screen, everything is so tiny until you tweak things. The issue really is with the damn laptops itself, I'm not a fan at all for people using them for photo editing. But people still want them and they keep asking. If you really want a dead-on editing screen, use a calibrated external display.

Touch Screens traditionally are a bitch to calibrate. Though some have reported little to no problems in this dept. That said, I personally would rather not edit with fingerprints on my display. I'm also more interested in the Color Gamut when it comes to sRGB, because that's the mode you will be editing in. Regardless on what you read on the internet, and everyone always seems to say "ADOBE RGB!!" The truth is, as soon as you export to JPEG, by default...JPEG is sRGB. So why spend all that time in Adobe RGB when the final output is sRGB? That's why Damien and I recommend sRGB. You want color consistency, from ACR --> to PS --> to JPEG. So what do I recommend for sRGB? About 90% or better. Especially 95%+ for sRGB.

OLED will most certainly give you burn-in problems. They have gotten better, but even fancy top-of-the-line LG OLED Displays have warnings printed in their manuals. I'd stick with LED for a computer display, Getting a IPS Screen will be more than enough. Remember, you aren't watching movies, you are editing photos. You need to see detail in the blacks / shadows.

It's really the display panel type more than anything. It's very easy to fall for the marketing terms, I don't care if it makes you breakfast in the morning, your laptop's internal display NEEDS to be IPS Based. (aka In-Plane Switching.) Often manufacuters will install the cheaper TN (Twisted Neumatic) display panels, which have a quicker response time, thereby being better suited for video games, but when it comes to Photographs and Video, IPS is the only way to go. Sadly, finding a IPS-Based Laptop is a real PITA. You will find laptops that meet all of my recommendations, but then you get to the display panel and it's usually TN, which disqualifies it. In case your are wondering, IPS panel technology helps insure things like Color, Contrast, and Sharpness are consistent from edge to edge. Plus the viewing Angle is much better; usually around 170 Degrees or so. TN panels don't do this. They are great for general computing and not photo editing or video editing. If you can't find a laptop that has a IPS panel, you would then need to consider purchasing an external IPS based Display AND use a digital dort, like HDMI or DisplayPort to get the most out of your external display. Don't EVER use the old 15-pin Blue VGA Ports, those were meant for 20" CRT (Tube) Displays, not today's fancy flat-screens.

As I've stated in my pinned articles, Apple wants you to "Go Big or Go Home." So my configurations stand. Give this article another read. Remember, when I configure my computers, I have a 7-8 year lifespan time-frame in mind, not something that will work for "Now." I realize my configurations are a bit on the expensive side, compared to say...buying a stock $1799 iMac, but things like a better video card and better HD along with the ability to upgrade RAM down the line also come into play. My configurations are overkill for PSE, but at the end of the day, I'd rather you have a computer that is going to last than one you will replace in 2-3 years. Of course, it's your money and if you want to buy a lower-priced iMac, go for it. Just make sure you skip the 21.5" iMac models. NO!! You want a Time Machine EHD that has a capacity which is at least twice of what your internal HD is. Also, your Time Machine Drive is just meant for Time Machine Backups ONLY!! Do not partition anything or try to cheat. Leave the Time Machine Drive all by itself, and make sure that TM does NOT backup any of your other External Hard Drives. You just want TM to backup your Internal Mac HD ONLY. Personally, I have a 4TB TM EHD and my Internal Mac HD is just a 1TB SSD Drive. You can manually "Trim" Time Machine Backups from a few years ago, this is totally up to you. In my humble opinion, this is something I would do manually and not use software for. Honestly, it's pretty easy to do, and a simple Google Search of "time machine delete old backups" will yield a bunch of results. Since I'm a visual person, I prefer YouTube Tutorials. This will walk you through, step-by-step on how to trim your TM EHD. One more thing, now is the time to buy a current iMac, since they will be the last of the Intel-based CPU Chips. Apple is moving away from Intel and going with their own CPU Chip line, similar to what is in the iPads and such. This makes sense for Apple, but as far as the user experience and things working with a Mac, like the list you provided above, I'd get a Intel Based iMac while you can. It will. Any increase in MP will require more horsepower and storage and RAM from your computer. That said, going from 16MP to 20MP isn't THAT huge. I went from 16MP to 45MP and my old Mac practically cried out in pain. Honestly, 32GB for your new iMac will work just fine for you. You could get away with something like 16GB, but RAM is cheap now and just buy it and get it over with. If you are looking to save costs, and I realize that Canada is really expensive, just like Australia (they are MUCH worse than Canada,) so you could purchase something like a 16GB Kit from Crucial.com to take your iMac from 8GB to 24GB and see how things work for you. You can always go higher when it comes to RAM.

I'd also give this video a watch as well. Of course, this particular video is favoring the Mirrorless Body for taking video, which makes sense since it's newer technology. If you are primarily taking actual photographs, they recommend the Canon 5D Mark IV. Plus, as I've stated above, and they implied this in the video, to get the best performance out of a Mirrorless Body, you need the Mirrorless-based lenses to go with it. Sure you can use an adapter ring, but in reality, you are buying all new lenses to go with a Mirrorless Body. Since you already have great glass, why bother forking out another $6000+? So my vote & recommendation for you is a 5D Mark IV. Enjoy your purchase.

@Falon: Came across this video on YouTube this evening. I'd give it a watch:

Chances are you are going to have to download a fresh copy, then manually remove the driver, reboot and then install the new video driver. Dell Tech Support should be able to help you with this, or at least point you in the right direction.

This is going to be a tough one. Personally, I would try to find one in real life and hold one. Mirrorless bodies are A LOT Smaller than DSLR Bodies. If you do go the R6 route and can't hold one prior, make sure the place you buy from has a great return policy and use the camera right away. Meaning, don't get it on a Tuesday and wait until the Weekend to test it out. If you don't like it, you don't want to cut into a 14 day return policy.