Brian

Please keep this in mind, a Time Machine External HD should be used for Time Machine files only!! You do not ever want to store files and photos on the TM Drive along with the TM Backups. I'm not saying you are doing this, but if you are going to use that WD drive that's screwed up, you will definitely want to erase it first. I'd also invest in a UPS as it will keep your HDs powered on, along with your Mac for those power blips; you'd be surprised how a simple black-out that lasts for only 1 or 2 seconds can screw up a hard drive if it's writing while suddenly being powered off. I'm 99% sure Time Machine was doing something when you lost power, which screwed up that drive.

Formatting a Mac Hard Drive is pretty easy. You already know where to look as it's done in Disk Utility. I've written instructions on another thread, please follow them here. I would also avoid using any OEM Utility Software from Western Digital, Seagate and the like. Those programs aren't necessary as everything is built into the OS, AND they often cause more problems than they should. In fact, most of the time, they just get in the way and cause issues.

Yes. That just means that 30-bit Display is not an option for your computer. At all.

Yeah, power outages will do this sort of thing to external drives. That's why I have a APC UPS for my iMac. If ejecting & reconnecting doesn't fix things, not even un-mounting via Disk Utility, then the first thing I would do is disable / turn off time machine. Then head into Disk Utility and select the drive in the left column. After that, run the First Aid Routine on the EHD within Disk Utility. Here is what mine looks like, you should be able to find it: Hopefully, First Aid will fix the drive. Don't bother repairing the permissions, it's not going to work. When the power outage hit, the drive was probably being written to or being utilized in some way by Time Machine. Which corrupted the drive. The HD itself might be fine, but you might have to format it and start fresh OR buy a new EHD if First Aid can't fix it. It really depends on how bad is bad filesystem wise.

Either. I know that's not a real answer, but I had the Display Pro HL on my Amazon list for awhile, but since I will likely be getting a Apple Studio Display for my next Mac purchase in a few years, I might just go ahead and purchase the Calibrite Display Plus HL. The cost difference between the two seems minor now, so I'd get the better one and agree with your thinking. Apple Displays are so friggin' bright, that you need all the help you can get.

To read those .dfu files, you probably need to download the Godox Firmware Launcher Program provided by Godox. They aren't files like a "Zip" file, and you do not use a generic program! I don't own any Godox products, so I'm kinda at a loss. I can tell you, that you need to download the correct Launcher based on what Generation your Godox is. (There should be some sort of label on the device indicating which Generation it is.) Use the USB-C to USB-A Cable, have the Launcher Program detect the device, then select the correct .dfu file, and push the update down to what you are trying to flash.

No. You will need to save them to a Thumbdrive or EHD. The CC version just gives you current features and breaks up your payments to $10 a month, instead of forking out $700+ for PS. You will need to setup PS and ACR again. Give this a read: Setting Up Photoshop.

You should be able to. Adobe has always supported two copies with the same license key, BUT! YOU CAN ONLY BE SIGNED INTO ONE "MOTHERSHIP" PHOTOSHOP CC APP AT A TIME. So, if you were thinking of running both computers side-by-side and comparing things, it won't work. From Adobe: Install Creative Cloud apps on a new computer With any new Mac, it's always best to go with the latest-and-greatest version of Photoshop CC. ESPECIALLY WITH THE M1 & M2 MACS! I would. Apple has a pretty good "Migration Assistant." You might also want to contact Adobe, maybe there is a file somewhere in a folder that you can copy from one computer to another. Here is my Article on Setting Up Photoshop. There are a few more things I need to add to that article, but the bulk of that document for configuring Photoshop is still the same. How old & which Make/Model? If it's like a Spyder5 Series or one that is like 5+ years old, I would go ahead and get a current model. But if it's a Spyder X Series, or a current model, i.e. purchased after 2020, then all you need to do is make sure you have the latest Calibration Software to make things compatible with Ventura. Give Damien's Article a read on which monitor calibrator to buy.

I'd say @ $3000, you should be able to get around 7 years or so. The biggest cost of the whole build will be a NVIDIA RTX 4000 Series Cards. A RTX 4080 will set you back $1200, then you have to purchase the rest of the computer. If you are determined to replace your computer, just go the Full Monty.

I've purchased the 1TB version of this Samsung Drive multiple times, to install in my family's computers. The 2TB Model isn't too expensive: SAMSUNG Electronics 870 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-77E2T0B/AM) - $120 What I would do is clone your existing HD from the 1TB that you have and put it on the 2TB, then use the existing 1TB for PS Scratch Disk type of things. You could take you computer to a local repair shop and they could install things / clone the drive if you aren't comfortable doing this stuff.

I'd actually get a NVIDIA RTX 3070Ti or RTX 3080 instead of a 4000 series. If you go up to the 4000 series, you are going to be buying a lot of stuff...well, you will end up replacing everything. Plus, with the NVIDIA 4000 Series, I'm still reading of people having problems, melted power connectors...to me they need to work out the bugs. In addition, to really take advantage of the power of a 4000 Series, you will most likely need a new Motherboard, then a CPU to work with the faster Motherboard, then RAM to interface with the new Motherboard and CPU, then a higher wattage Power Supply to support everything. Of course the larger HD, and...and...and... OH! Then you try to install a NVIDIA 4000 Series Card without realizing just how large they can get, so you will replace your computer case. How large? Here is a NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 in this Lian Li case, and it barely fits: So...upgrading Video Cards can be a very slippery and expensive slope. I'd say if you get a 3070Ti or 3080 and increase the RAM to 64GB, you probably can get another 1-2 years out of your computer, which would allow you to save up for one. (Budget $3000 in 2024.)

Yep. You want at least a RTX 3070 and please install and use the NVIDIA Studio Drivers. Those Drivers are meant for Photoshop & Lightroom. The default NVIDIA Drivers are meant for gaming.

“Meh.” Either. The choice of Video Card is way more important, along with a Modern i7 or even i9 CPU. Now, for gaming, DDR5 is the “new tech” so it will be better to purchase a system with DDR5 if you aren’t planning on buying a new computer for a few years, etc. That said, for Photoshop, doesn’t matter in a real-world sense…and it goes back to the choice of Video Card. I’m sure some Measure-bator Techno-Weenie will have charts and graphs and lab results indicating one over the other, and that’s fine. In my humble opinion, Photoshop isn’t programmed to take advantage of DDR5, and I would be more concerned about the amount of physical RAM vs. the speed of it. For the amount, 32GB is the bare-minimum, but you really-really-really want 64GB+ heading into 2024. The more MP your camera, the more RAM you want. My next computer will most likely have at least 96GB-128GB of RAM. But I do large Panoramic Photos with my Nikon D850, so your mileage may vary.

Yep. The Dell Ultrasharps hold up pretty well. I'd use a DisplayPort Cable as my 1st choice over HDMI. I typically recommend a Dell U2722D UltraSharp 27" IPS Screen. Take a look at the specs, this monitor checks all the boxes. If you'd like, buy the Display 1st and use it with your current computer if you can. Resolution: 2560 x 1440 (Check!) DO NOT BUY any screen that has a resolution of 1920 x 1080 for 27" or larger display. 24" or smaller, 1920x1080 is fine, but if you want a 27" or larger screen, don't get suckered into a 1920x1080 panel; you want 2560 x 1440 for a 27". You are editing photos and using this with a computer, this isn't a Television. In-Plane Switching (IPS) Display Panel (Check!) 100% sRGB (Anything 95% or better is fine, so Check!) Anti-Glare / Matte (Check!) Multiple Display Port Type for connectivity (Check!)

Before you ask, you want the following at a Minimum Intel Core i7-13700K 32GB RAM (YOU REALLY-REALLY WANT 64GB) 1 TB Main SSD HD or m.2 1TB Drive. (No 500GB Drives. I do not care about the other HDs in the computer, the manufacturer is being cheap and just trying to sell you something.) At least a NVIDIA RTX3070 TI or 3080 with at least 8GB of dedicated Video Memory. Use the Studio Drivers for Photoshop / Lightroom, not the gaming drivers i’d recommend around a 850 Watt Power Supply. No less than 650 Watts

Actually, I’d skip that whole computer. I know $999 seems expensive, but the $999 Special at a Big Box Store that was “Good Enough” was 20+ years ago. $999 PC today was yesterday’s 499 / 599 model. I’m not digging anything in that computer. The CPU is underpowered, (yes, even though it’s an i7…it’s not a powerful i7.) the 3060 isn’t worth it, don’t like the 500GB SSD (you want a 1TB as the main / boot drive, not 500GB.) plus the 16GB of RAM. Honestly? Keep saving and increase you budget. Stay away from the $1000 computers. It’s 2023/2024, expect to pay at least $2500 for the PC alone. Remember, Photoshop CC is getting more demanding and bloated. While this computer may run the current versions “fine,” I’d hate for you to be back in the market or regretting your purchase 18 months from now.

NO to a NVIDIA 3060 card. You want at least a NVIDIA RTX 3070Ti or even a 3080 version. Also, you will want the NVIDIA Studio Drivers and not the gaming / default drivers. 3060 just will give you problems and complaints from Photoshop.

The Mac Studio is definitely more powerful, and even though the M1& M2 chips treat the RAM differently, programmers will take advantage of this and make their software more bloated. So give it time…64GB will be the new Norm just like 64MB was once upon a time 64GB is decent, but you can never have enough. could you afford 96GB? Or whatever the next step is? Remember, everything is built into one chip, no upgrading after the fact. That said, your configuration is fine.

Lithium-Ion batteries can swell / poof-up as they age, so it doesn't surprise me that the keyboard also needs replacing. It's this same "Poofing" that causes them to start fires, so yes...before you ask, your laptop was a serious fire-hazard. It was just a matter of time.

No. If you want "more" of anything with a Mac Laptop, you are buying a whole new laptop. The RAM is soldered to the Motherboard. No upgrade slots. You can't buy Windows 10 anymore, Microsoft isn't selling any new licenses, so you will need Windows 11. You either need to buy a program called Parallels, or use a Virtual Machine Type of software such as the free version of VMWARE Fusion. I'd buy Parallels for $100 and then purchase a copy of Windows 11 ($139 plus tax) since she is playing video games.

"Meh." Personally, I HAVE NEVER HAD A 3RD PARTY REPLACEMENT BATTERY WORK WELL in any of my customer's Laptops. Sure, you'll think you will be saving money, but in the long run, you will be replacing them sooner rather than later. I have found that 3rd Party Batteries just SUCK, regardless of brand. So if you think about it, pay $80-ish now, and another $80-ish in about 6-9 months. I just haven't had a 3rd party battery work like the OEM in my last 30 years of being a Professional Technician. Only replacement batteries from the Manufacturer have the best chance of working as expected. Especially if it's cheap and crappy batteries from China. (Which these probably are.) Also, Apple doesn't make things easy to swap out and if by some chance you puncture the battery with a screwdriver, it will cause a chemical reaction from the Chemicals within the battery to mix, thereby generating A LOT of heat. So much that you won't be able to touch them by hand and it could start a fire. Apple uses adhesive to mount the batteries, so it's not like you are just opening a cover, disconnecting the power connector to the motherboard and swapping things out. It's a little more involved than that. I found this YouTube Video, and you may want to search for some other YouTube Tutorials and give them a watch before you attempt anything. So while you could replace them yourself, unless you have experience doing them, I'd take it to Apple and have them install a Geniune OEM Battery. Not only for the battery and labor to install one, but they will take your old battery and recycle it, saving you the cost of disposal. You will have a battery that's guaranteed, is authorized by the Manufacture, and if they screw something up...they are on the hook for the repairs. Are. you being Dumb? No. It's a fair question. Should you? Eh...I'd pass on this one, as much as it pains me to tell you to spend the $268. It's almost like sealing the Asphalt on your Driveway every 2-3 years. Can you do it yourself? Sure. But then you need to buy the materials, store said materials and then deal with the application of the materials. Or you could just pay someone to come every couple of years and have them do it and be done. Same thing.

Found this: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201065 and this: Lots of YouTube videos. Do a search there.

Yeah, your Windows is really botched up. The DISM commands, while valuable...they aren't 100% fool-proof. Sometimes Windows is just corrupted. Quick question... Does this laptop have a Spinning Hard Drive or is it a SSD model? If it's a spinning / traditional HD, it might have bad sectors. The reason I mention this, is if you do have to Nuke the drive and reload everything, it may be worth seeing if there is some sort of Recovery Tool Maker that you could restore the OS on a new drive. (Usually a Thumb-Drive,) and replace the Traditional / Spinning HD and replace it with a Sandisk 1TB 870 SSD Drive. Wow!! Those suckers are going for $60 now!! Not only will you get a Drive that is WAY faster than a spinning HD, you will get the benefit of lower power consumption and heat, which helps with battery life. Plus, if you just remove the existing HD, and use a HD to USB Adapter, you might be able to copy over your existing Data Files and such from the old drive. In a nutshell, if you are going to Nuke it and start over, I'd go the Full Monty and get everything done in one shot.

You have a 21.5" iMac, they aren't worth much as you can't upgrade things like RAM yourself. It also has slower components in it, deliberately done by Apple, so honestly? I'd say $500-$600 at most for it. If you had a 27" model with more RAM, that would be a different story.

You will need to create a bootable Thumb Drive with the Big Sur OS. Then boot into diagnostic mode and format the HD and install a fresh copy of the Big Sur OS. Before you do any of that, make sure your Mac in not registered with any Apple ID or “Find my Mac” stuff. Oh, de-register the Mac from iTunes as well. I haven’t gotten around to writing that lengthy How-To Article (need a Mac to Sacrifice) but Apple should have instructions. I’d give them a call. It’s not hard, just need to follow the steps.