Brian

This is a common glitch that happens with new computers. People have had this same issue before. There are three choices: Un-install Bridge, reboot and use the Adobe Mothership App to download the latest and greatest version of Adobe Bridge. Often this takes care of things. Deal with it until Adobe releases an update, or Apple releases a update for the macOS. If these two choices aren't ideal for you, contact Adobe Support. They should be able to remote in and tweak things.

I'd purchase the Lenovo. It mentions a IPS screen. Believe me, manufactures WILL point that out 99% of the time, since it's a "upgrade" over a TN Panel. If it's not mentioned, I'm going to assume it has a TN Display Panel and not a IPS Screen, which is what you WANT for Photo Editing.

Buy it! Enjoy your purchase.

Now the next step is... Open the Adobe CC Mothership App and TURN OFF AUTO-UPDATING!!! Stay where you are Photoshop Version-wise. I PROMISE!! PINKY SWEAR PROMISE!!! It is much better for you to actually learn how to properly edit in Photoshop, then to have FOMO on not having the latest AI Tool. Seriously. Photoshop at its core has not changed THAT MUCH since CS6. It's all the fancy tools and bloatware that Adobe adds in order to keep people hooked on a subscription model. While that is great, a end-user needs to keep on top of replacing their computers every 36 months or so to keep Photoshop happy. Moreso if they don't get the more beefy hardware at purchase in which case that number drops to 24 months for every new computer. That gets expensive.

I have a Lenovo for work, and it's held up for YEARS of me carrying it around daily. HP Laptops were good 20 years ago. Now, they just suck. Their Trackpads are TERRIBLE and HP uses Eco-Friendly Solder, meaning no lead. That's great for the environment, but crappy for things like the power connector leads that attach to the motherboard. I've had nothing but problem-after-problem with HP Laptops with my customers. They last about 18-24 months under heavy use. If the cheap plastic case parts hold up that long. Personally, you want either a Lenovo or a Asus Republic of Gamers. One with a IPS Screen is mandatory for photo editing. Good Luck on your hunt. I'm thinking your budget will need to increase slightly. $999 in today's world for anything good is tough to come by.

Seems to check all the boxes. That said, HP laptops just do not last. I would not spend a penny more than the $999 price-tag. I’d expect you be back in the Market in about 24-36 months. But the specs are good.

Well, you can re-install Windows without having to Nuke everything. But it's not fool-proof. Glad you got things working... NOW BACKUP YOUR DATA 'YA WALLY!!! Seriously. Take the time to backup things now, even if it takes a week or so. A data crash / reloading everything should be a time suck and a PITA to do, but not be catastrophic!! Understand? Take this near-death experience of your data and get things backed up.

See next to Graphics? You have TWO Video Cards in your MacBook Pro. One is for long battery life, the other is when you want to do important stuff, like edit photos. You want Photoshop to be using the Radeon Pro 555x 4GB Graphics Card.

YES! - TURN. THAT. OFF. If you turn that feature on, it tells your Mac Laptop to automatically switch to the low-end & under-powered graphics card to save power. Basically, when you unplug it or the battery gets really low, it will switch. Then Photoshop gets cranky because it wants to use the more Robust Graphics Card (Some Laptops have TWO GPUs!) because...duh! It's faster and better. Things like Liquify and Adobe Camera Raw primarily use the Graphics Processor to work, NOT the CPU. So if Photoshop disables the Low-End Graphics Card, you will get error messages and things won't work right. Remember "Today's Modern Photoshop" requires FOUR THINGS: Fast CPU (Intel i7 137000K or better) Enough RAM (I recommend 32GB or more) 1 TB HD A Beefy & Fast Video GPU with at least 8GB of dedicated Video RAM. (More is always better.) The days of "I just upgraded to 32GB so it should be fast enough..." are OVER. Or the "I got lots of Gigabytes on my HD, so I should be fine." That thinking was so last-century. Photoshop is getting more-and-more bloated, especially with all of this AI Crap they are adding.

Sony XQD/CFExpress Type B Memory Card Reader I have the XQD Only Version of that Reader and it's served me well for the past 5 years. The SD Card Reader, any will do; the ones that come with Macs are the best that 6 cents can buy. So while you can use a SD Reader in a Mac, virtually ANY external Card Reader will be better. You mean the Article with a title of, "What Card Reader do you Recommend?" Now keep in mind, the What-to-Buy Articles ALWAYS are out of date. Things I recommend may nor may not be available, so you might have to search a little. That said, this Card Reader is still available. Honestly? My D850 takes both a SD and a XQD / CFExpress Type B. I have never used the SD Card, maybe like once. I'm always using XQD Cards just because they are WAY faster and are built like tanks.

I know this might be a cop-out...but have you tried doing a search on YouTube? I'm sure someone has a Tips & Tricks Video out there.

I'm a Nikon OEM snob. Until you have shot with Pro-Grade Nikon f/2.8 Zoom Lenses, you have no idea what you are missing. Sure, some Measurebator will come in with all sorts of charts and graphs and blah-blah-blah. I'm sticking with Nikon Glass. It used to be that Tamron Lenses would add a bit more red to photos and Sigma tended to add a bit more yellow. Not sure if that still applies. Nikon Glass has always been neutral, especially with the top-end lenses. When you pixel-peep...I mean really pixel-peep, you do see a difference with OEM Lenses for the most part. Now if all you are doing is posting to a IG account or for people to swoon over things in a Facebook Group, get whatever your heart desires. If you are asking me, I'd save up and get the OEM lenses.

24MP is FINE. Trust me. I have a D850, and have to deal with it's stupid 45.7 MP sensor. That damn camera costed me so much money. Why? 100MB Raw Files. Sure, I could turn on compression, but I don't like doing that. That camera required me to buy two new and expensive lenses, a whole new computer and 12TB Storage AND had to upgrade the RAM to 64GB to handle those 100MB Raw files. What's my point? To support a 45.7MP Camera (or larger,) you need an entire ecosystem to support it. In reality? All one "NEEDS" is about 12MP. That's it. 12MP will get you any print size that you desire. The rest is just Marketing, and FOMO...which drives Camera sales. People are so worried about not having the latest camera body, but I will tell you that it's the LENSES one needs to be more concerned with. That said, it's soon to be 2024...24MP and greater is our reality. Your question, yep...as per your requirements, it's Mirrorless that you should be after. It's actually a good thing that you switched over, because in addition to a Mirrorless Body, it is in your best interest to get a Mirrorless Lens to go with it. Don't fall for the, "But they have an FTZ Adapter..." thinking. Mirrorless Bodies, want Mirrorless Lenses. Period. The Zf looks interesting. It's cute, and they remind me of the old SLRs from the 1980's. It's also 45.7MP, so be prepared for that ecosystem. I was seriously looking at getting one, but have other stuff to buy first. The Z8 also is a very capable camera. I've also seen great things out of a Z6ii. Honestly? I'd skip the Z7ii at this point. It's kinda like your D750, it's in the same class. From my POV, it's either the z6ii or Z8. Now you will need to decide which lens to go with it. For the lightest weight and walking around, a good 50mm f/1.8 Lens will do most shots. 35mm is good for Street Photography, and Dog Shows? I'd have a 70-200 f/4 to save on weight, since most 70-200 f/2.8 lenses are about 3lbs all-by-themselves before you add the weight of the body. Portraits...85mm or even the new Mirrorless Nikon NIKKOR Z 135mm f/1.8 S Plena Lens. Or you could get a Nikon NIKKOR Z 24-120mm f/4 S Lens and start there. Figure out what's your typical focal length for a particular subject then decide if you want a prime or not. Primes will always be lighter than zooms, but it does force you to think more and be creative as you need to "Zoom with your Feet." What I would do now, is find a local camera store that has ANY Mirrorless Body on Display and hold one. Fiddle with it, go into the menus and give it a test drive. Don't rely just on what you see on YouTube or Blog Posts. Mirrorless takes getting used to, as you are looking at a little TV Screen in the Viewfinder. IF YOU PAN A LOT, or Photograph like a Sniper during Dog Shows, there is a bit of delay when moving the camera quickly in the viewfinder since the camera has to redraw the image on the viewfinder each time you move. That's why the focusing system is way more robust and has more Focus Points for you (or the camera) to utilize. It's meant for you to not have to move as much. But I've shot with a SLR since 1986 and that delay is just weird for me. It's gonna be an adjustment. But walking around with 50lbs of gear when I go on trips is becoming a bit of a hassle, plus I'm a huge target for thieves. I want to get down to one small camera body and either a 24-70 f/2.8 or 24-120 f/4. If you do end up going with a 45.7MP sensor, you are going to need a new computer sooner rather than later. In fact, I'd buy the computer before buying a new camera. Unless you only want to edit 1 or 2 photos at a time.

@Damien Symonds - Any ideas? I don't own one, so I won't be of much help.

Short Answer: “Meh.” I will give my full thoughts later tonight.

You can hold off for now. Don't let the FOMO trip you up. When it comes time, like in 2025...your Windows 10 Key can be used to upgrade to Windows 11. While it's "better" now, I'm personally still holding off upgrading to Windows 11. The only downside is Microsoft isn't pushing out any feature updates. I'm sure if something big security-wise they will probably push out an update...but honestly? Windows 10 is a matured OS at this point. The biggest threat is if you do something stupid, like click on a obvious malicious link.

Short Answer: No. Long answer, you can try, but you are really pushing it. In reality, the Photoshop CC that could work is PS CC 2020. Nothing current. No current OS, no current Photoshop...that laptop is too under-powered for any modern software. 5 years is ancient in the computer world at this point, more-so if you didn't get the better (and more expensive hardware) at the time of purchase. Actually...don't even try. Photoshop will either not install or it will do nothing but complain and lag if it does install. Apple is going to have an event this coming Monday. So hold off on buying anything until we see what's coming. I *think* an 27" new iMac might be in the works, but who knows? They might just release updated Mac Laptops.

Yeah, you can boot into the Advanced Startup Options Menu. If there is a restore point from before you messed with the drivers, it should roll things back. It should be under Troubleshoot >> Advanced Menu and labeled as, "Last Good Known Configuration." (I think, it's been awhile since I've had to do this.) From Microsoft: Advanced Startup Options Basically, you hit f8 a bunch of times before the Windows Logo Appears, or you hold down F8. From there. Sometimes you hit F11 or I've even seen F10.

You might have to take it into a local repair shop. I have a few ideas, but they involve another computer. It also helps if you have Windows Pro so you can do remote desktop and see if you can get into it that way.

I did find something!!! From Adobe's Website: Here is an example that I swiped from their Website: That Top Check-Mark for "Automatic graphics switching," TURN IT OFF OR UN-CHECK IT!!! Then close out the Energy Saver Window and I would even reboot. Then head into PS Preferences >> Performance and hopefully the AMD Radeon is being used by Photoshop. Since you are on a Mac, I'm moving this thread to the Macintosh User Group.

You are most likely going to have to find the Intel Driver from their website via their DSA Tool and not use the Microsoft one. That's probably is what screwed you up. Download the Intel Driver 1st with the DSA Tool, then disconnect from the Internet, by either pulling the Ethernet Cable or shutting off your Wi-Fi. We don't want Windows phoning home to the Microsoft Servers since the Microsoft Intel Driver is messed up. To accomplish this, boot into Safe-Mode again. Right-Click on the Start Button and select Device Manager in the list. Find the Intel Graphics Card Driver and right-click & select Uninstall. You want to remove all drivers if it asks. Now at this point it may want you to reboot. Try avoiding that and see if you can run the installer for the Graphics Driver you just downloaded from Intel. If it won't let you, reboot. Then log into Windows and then load the Intel Driver you just downloaded. Hopefully it will work. Unfortunately, you are going to have to "Dork-Around" with it until you get it what you want it to do. There is no set way that works 100% of the time when it comes to removing drivers. Disconnecting from the Internet helps a lot though. I found this on Intel's Web Site" https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000039510/graphics.html

Chances are, Photoshop is using the lowered powered Intel UHD Graphics 630, which is great for battery life, but sucks when Photoshop is involved. To confirm this, head to the Photoshop Menu, next to the Apple Menu at the top. From there, head to Preferences and then select Performance. The Performance Settings should appear. Take a look towards the right, what does it say about your "Graphics Processor Setting?" Which card is being used by Photoshop? Here is what mine looks like: It's either going to be the Intel one or the AMD. Hopefully it's set to Intel, which will confirm my suspicions. If it's set to the AMD Radeon Pro, well...we will jump off that bridge when we get to it. It is possible that you might have to toggle the built in MacBook Display and only use the external. I wish I knew more, but I don't have a Mac Laptop, just have owned iMacs for the last 14+ years.

A Switch is a device that learns which Mac Address is assigned to a particular Ethernet port, so it can forward the packets of information directly. Each Ethernet Device, Phones, computers, Wi-Fi Laptops, all have a unique MAC Address. It’s kind of like a Social Security Number. As opposed to a hub, in which the data packets go in one port and then get broadcasted out on all the other ports at the same time. Switches are more efficient in transmitting Data Packets and are the most common type today. In many cases, the 4 port switch is built into the Router from the ISP. It’s really two devices; a Router and a Switch, built into one device. The average person doesn’t know this and just call it a Router. I have / own my Modem and have a Separate Switch. The reason is, ISPs typically use the ABSOLUTE CHEAPEST AND CRAPPIEST DEVICES OUT THERE. Because it saves them money. Mind you, they have no problems charging you a monthly fee to lease this crap, which is why I have my own.

It’s mostly stable-ish now, but isn’t without issues. Microsoft has stopped updating Windows 10 and Windows an only selling Windows 11 new. Honestly, for the best experience, I’d buy a new computer that comes with Windows 11 for the best experience. Unless you have a really beefy system now. Personally, I’m holding off until 2025. But that’s just me.

The 16GB of RAM… …if you build it they will come. Meaning, even though the 16GB of RAM on a M2 acts more like 32GB does on a Intel chip, all that means is programmers won’t put in a huge effort to optimize their code to keep that efficiency with 16GB RAM and a M2 chip. My next Mac will have 128GB of RAM, or at the very least 96GB. I don’t trust 16GB will last the long term, and I buy my computers with a 7-8 year lifespan in mind. With ALL current Apple Products, there is no upgrading after the fact. If you need more of something that’s built in, you are buying a whole new Mac. Or to put it another way, and what you are recalling asking… Yes, I know you don’t want to spend more than $4000 on a Mac. Yes, it’s silly. Welcome to 2024! Houses cost $500,000, new vehicles cost 50,000+ and interest rates are high. So if you want to stay with Mac, you are spending more than $4000 for something decent. Anything less and expect to be buying another computer within 3 years.