Brian

Pull all the external hard drives. Let’s isolate your iMac.

YES!!! Every single file and folder that is located on the desktop, is considered an "Open Window" by the MacOS, for lack of a better term. If you have 1000 Photos in the Smith-Jones Wedding and 500 photos from the Miller Family Reunion, that is 1502 "Open Windows." Move ALL of those folders to a spot inside the Macintosh HD. You can call it "Desktop Stuff" or whatever, Then right click on the "Desktop Stuff" Folder and select "Make Alias," which is Mac-Speak for Shortcut. Then drag the Alias to the Desktop. Aliases are meant to be on a desktop, not files and folders. If Time Machine was controlling that backup drive, it would say "Time Machine" and not "Seagate Backup." Honestly, it's your folders on the desktop and all the items contained within them that is causing your issues. After moving them to a place within the Macintosh HD, you might want to reboot for giggles and grins...and I'll bet you get your performance back.

How much crap do you have on your desktop? (Files and Folders.) The more you have on your Mac Desktop, the slower it runs. Also the Seagate Backup concerns me. You do NOT need any 3rd party programs backing up your iMac. Not only do they drain resources, the MacOS has something called Time Machine that is excellent. In addition, I would remove all externals and see if you get your performance back.

I personally have never purchased the upgraded CCLeaner versions and have always used the free version. I am particular on who I download the free version from, since the free versions sometimes get laced with malware. I guess my answer is, if you need the extra “stuff” that the other versions provide, I’d go with the Pro Bundle for $30. I’m not sure how much more space will be cleared with a Pro Version either. Honestly, nothing beats a larger HD. So if you have say...a 250GB SSD HD as your main drive, take that $30 and put it towards a 1TB HD or even a 500GB HD. Speaking of hard drives in regards to defragmentation... Never-Ever-Ever run defrag on a SSD Drive!! Doing so will permanently damage a SSD drive. If you have a traditional (spinning platter / 5400RPM or 7200RPM) hard drive, then Defragging it when you install or uninstall lots of software or every few months or so is fine. I have never personally seen that much space recovered from running defrag. Maybe a megabyte or to, if that...and I’m pulling this out of my magic hat. What Deftag really does is just organize stuff at a basic level so your HD is more efficient. That’s it. Forget about any major “space” recovered from a defrag. Homestly, it sounds to me like you need a bigger HD.

Warning! I have expensive tastes. LOL!! I'm very good at spending other people's money. Since you asked me, I would get the 1TB m.2 PCIe SSD for your main drive. (+$350.00) and the NVIDIA 1060 6GB Card for (+$150.00) more.

These days, Album companies have their own album creation tools and are VERY easy to use. You don't have to deal with stupid templates and such, just make sure your photos are edited and saved properly, especially in terms of brightness. A display that's too bright will result in dark albums. I have used ZNO.com in the past and like them. Their prices are reasonable and their albums are WAY BETTER than Snapfish. Here is what the layout control panel looks like: You might not be able to see it but all you do is upload your photos, pick the layout template at the bottom and drag and drop your photos. Easy-Peasy.

Hold UP!!! Do not fall for the "Special Edition" Marketing. Yes it's silver. Yes it has a better video card. But I want you to be aware of this: See that? That means you have a TINY 256GB Main Drive and a 1TB Data Drive. Meaning you can only install the Operating System and some programs on the main drive, everything else needs to go on the larger D Drive. (Data.) You'd be surprised on just how small 256GB drives are and how quickly they run out of space. Sure you get 15 second boot times, just wait until the large Windows update can't download and install because you are out of room. The Dell XPS line I linked to has 1TB drives for their main drives. You could always add a SSD Drive and use mirroring software to copy over everything from the traditional HD to a SSD drive at a later date. Same thing goes for RAM, though I'd recommend starting out with 16GB these days with Windows 10. Whatever you do, DO NOT BUY A DELL THAT HAS THIS FOR A VIDEO CARD CONFIGURATION: That is a integrated graphics card and what you do not want. The Dell U2412M is an excellent monitor. Pick up one of these DisplayPort Cables to get the most out of your monitor.

Backblaze is not 100% bullet-proof. In fact... IF YOU DELETE YOUR FILES OFF YOUR HARD DRIVE, BACKBLAZE ALSO DELETES THOSE FILES OFF THEIR SERVERS!! That's right, BackBlaze likes to have a "Mirrored" image of your hard drive's data files. So if you save a bunch of stuff to your HD and then run out of room, once you start deleting files, sooner or later BackBlaze's servers will also delete those same files on their servers' HD, without letting you know, because they were no longer on your HD. It's a way for them to save on storage and for them not to be dumping grounds. Now what's the "Best" way depends on your budget. If it's small, then culling and deleting old stuff that will never see the light of day with the remaining data stored on a EHD. How? I'm old school, copy and paste. You could also use Microsoft's Sync Toy to do it automatically. I would not convert your Raw files to DNG. Cull your RAW files if you have to, converting things to DNG is converting them to a proprietary format. Adobe may not be around forever. If you don't have physical prints of your important photographs, your descendants may not have access if Adobe goes out of business. Don't laugh, Sears has been around for a long time, so was Kodak. Now Sears is on the verge of going out of business forever and Kodak is no more. So from my perspective, I'd rather have true camera OEM negative files to work with rather than a converted file that uses a company's proprietary format. Now if you have a healthy budget, and I'm talking about $2000 or more, then you can get a nice NAS to backup stuff. Synology makes great NAS units and they have software that automatically backs stuff up from your computer to the NAS. (Basically what you are wanting to do.) Of course, you could start out smaller and then add hard drives later to increase space but there is a trick to doing that. The good news is you only have 4TB of data, that's not a lot by today's standards. You could invest in a NAS that has 12TB of capacity but depending on how the 12TB hard drives are configured will determine the final capacity. Clear as Mud? What I mean is if you have two 6TB HDs and make them a RAID0, you will have 12TB total (don't do this). If you configure the two hard drives as a RAID1, you will have 6TB mirrored. If you have three 6tb HDs in a RAID5, you will have 12TB of storage with 6TB reserved for protection. Personally, I've been looking at the Synology DS1019+ NAS Unit. The Synology DS918+ is also excellent and is highly recommended. What's the difference? Another slot for a HD, faster CPU and more RAM comes with the 1019+. Basically it's the 2019 model. Western Digital Gold Hard Drives is what I'd use for the NAS, you do not want to go cheap on your NAS HDs. For you 4TB drives are the smallest I would go, but would probably look at 8TB drives (three or more) and those don't come cheap @ $340 per drive. So with three 8tb HDs, plus the NAS, without a m.2 drive for caching, you are at $1670 before tax and shipping. Now Damien has made some very good points and for his scenarios the only way to combat them is to utilize the 3-2-1 Backup Rule. Which means: Have at least three independent copies of your data. Store the copies on two different types of media. Keep one backup copy offsite. Of course, you could have to copies on two separate external hard drives or other media, this is not a hard-and-fast rule. Basically you don't want to lock yourself into one format. For example, WD Green external hard drives are JUNK. I love the higher-end Western Digital products but the cheap drives at the Big-Box-Stores I avoid like the plague. What happens if you have your data backed up on two different green hard drives? And one or both fail because they suck? Now you are stuck and a data recovery place becomes involved. Fortunately, there are cloud-based products like BackBlaze...but as I've pointed out above, they aren't fool-proof. That said, you could have one EHD and a Cloud Service and that would full-fill point #2. For point #3, you still need another EHD that is a mirror of your HD for point #2, and it kept off-site. This way if you have a fire or flood at your main location, and BackBlaze's servers go off-line, you still have a good backup at another location. So as you can see, either way you choose...it's gonna cost money. So how is your budget?

Now I'm sure you are going to ask which Monitor to purchase next. Damien has a nice article and a few recommendations from both me and him in the list: What to Buy: Monitor

OK. The usual PC that I recommend is the Dell XPS Tower Line of Desktops. It usually checks off, if not all, the requirements that I have and is affordable. I bought one a few years ago for my Fiancé and I will probably pick up on in the near future. The Dell XPS 8930 for $1199 would be the one I'd start with. Of course, my requirements are a bit more so I'd upgrade a few things (which puts it closer to the $2000 Mark) but for the majority, it works for editing photos. Plus, it allows for a healthy budget like yours to add a monitor and still keep in within budget. Now, another PC that caught my eye is from Digital Storm. It's from the Lynx Line and is the $1999 model. Of course that's blowing your budget and is way overkill. (Liquid Cooling, overclocked, fancy LED Lighting, etc.)

Leave it alone.

A “Power User” is a relative term. You’ll know when you are one. Basically, if you are the type that has multiple program sopen, logged into several servers, including virtual ones, have three browsers open with 30 tabs each, all while running a virtual Linux Box...you are a power user. If you edit video, at all...you are a power user. If you overclock your computer, are into liquid cooling and spend more money on a video card than than the price of the rest of computer “just because..” You are a power user. If all you have open is Bridge / Photoshop while dorking around on FB with a free browser tabs open, you are an average user. Threads are locked down. I got tired of arguing and correcting people on the FB Ask Brian. Too much of a time suck. Before you buy anything, what is your budget?

It fine. It’s not Windows. Formatting and Reinstalling doesn’t do a whole lot in terms of speed. Do things seem to be working? What Operating System are you currently running?

I think you have already done the process. Here are the instructions from Adobe: https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-and-macosmojave.html I haven't run CS5 in years, so it may not be in the list. If everything is working now, do not stress too much. Leave things alone.

Mojave is a little more hyper when it comes to programs working. You have to add Photoshop to the Security & Privacy section (click the checkbox in the list,) and it's just not CS5, it's ALL versions of PS. Well at least as far as my knowledge goes.

Spec-wise, your computer isn't THAT bad. Your main issue is your lack of HD capacity on your main boot drive. As of today, Saturday March 9th, 2019...I recommend the following for a computer that just edits photos and does other normal things: Intel i7-8700K CPU. You could get the latest model, the i7-9700K, but without HyperThreading that you get with the 8700K, it's kinda of a wash. Meaning that 5-7% boost you get with a i7-9700K isn't worth the extra money, especially if you are just editing photos. I'd rather you take the savings with the i7-8700K and put that towards more RAM or bigger HD / better video card, etc. 16GB RAM at a minimum. In reality, I would hope that folks get a computer that allows them to upgrade to at least 32GB of RAM or larger. So call it 32GB Preferred. At least a 500GB SSD Main Drive, with a 1TB SSD being what you really should strive for. As you have found out the hard way, a full hard drive is worthless to you, no matter how fast a SSD Drive is. A Second Traditional 7200RPM Hard Drive, with at least 6TB of storage. This is where your data files will reside. A video card that has it's own separate and dedicated video memory. 4GB of Video RAM at a Minimum with 6/8GB Preferred. Here is a list of cards that Adobe has tested and recommends. A power supply with enough wattage to support the hardware and motherboard. I'd say a 600 Watts to 800 Watts power supply on the average for today's performance motherboards. Windows 10 Pro. Sure you can get the "Home" edition and everything should work fine, I personally like having all the options turned on with the "Pro" version. This is especially true if you use your computer to connect to your work. That said, for the majority of the people out there, Windows 10 Home is fine. A decent case, if you are building the computer. One that has room to grow and is easy to work with. Proper airflow to dissipate heat, and a case that has filters to help keep dust to a minimum is great to have. As for my recommendations, I'm still looking myself. Lian-Li cases are usually very good, so I'd start there. Keep in mind that there are many manufactures that produce quality cases, and this is a very personal thing to purchase. What would work for me and what I'd do with it, would be different on what you'd do. Now for the answer to the question of "How much?" Depending on who you buy from or build it yourself, expect to pay between $1000-$2000 US Dollars for the above configuration. A store-bought computer or one from a large manufacturer like Dell, it will be less (towards the $1000 - $1200 mark) since they purchase their hardware items in bulk. If you are building it yourself, the cost will be closer to the $2000-ish mark, depending on what you buy. Not only because you are just buying a single motherboard, and one cpu chip, it's also due to you purchasing higher quality components, like a fancy video card that will run you $400-$600. Trust me, buying a high-end motherboard yourself will give you more bang for your buck then a motherboard that Dell gives you. It's just the nature of things. The downside is cost, for those on a limited budget, building a PC might not be the best path to follow. Your Mileage May Vary. Bottom Line: So what would I recommend for you? I'd purchase the 1TB SSD Drive and be happy. You can always use that HD in a new computer so it's not like you are throwing money away.

The _windowserver is part of Mojave and is supposed to be there. It handles the things you see on your display. Leave that one alone The ID.me is some sort of software or browser add-in. See if you can find it using CleanMyMac and uninstall it from there. I have no idea what it is either.

It's a laptop. That's typical. I hate laptops. I keep saying you get 3-4 years out of Mac Laptops and your more expensive Windows Laptops. (around $1500-ish.) Nobody believes me and they keep buying them. Your $500 laptops get you 12-18 months before they become "Too Slow." $1000 laptops, about 24 Months. I also say that Apple does planned obsolescence. With each OS upgrade, things get slower and slower. Same thing with iPhones...but I'm not going to go Full-Tinfoil Hat, it's just my personal experience. The current CEO has stated within the last week that "...repairs hurt the bottom line." Meaning Apple wants you back in the market sooner rather than later, so 3-4 years is about all you get out of their products. Now that doesn't mean that the products break, it just they start running slower and slower over time. I'm typing this on my 2009 iMac, and I've had the same software on it for years. Of course things like Photoshop and the OS have been upgraded and I'm currently on High Sierra. It runs slower than it used to and it started with going past OS Mavericks. I wonder if there is any truth to the rumors. Also, it could be something simple as a clogged fan. Heat is the nemesis of electronics. Lithium Ion batteries also wear out after so many charging cycles without warning. Three years is about when they need to be replaced. Hmm...I'm wondering if you should be saving up for a new computer? Now for the ID.me. You have to had to install it. It's some sort of Identity Thing? Here is the website. You haven't installed any stupid "Find the Best Deals on Amazon while you shop!!" browser Add-on nonsense, have you? The reason you get deals is they data-mine you and track what you do on your computer, and then sell that information. Ain't nothin' free. Hell, I'm sure you pay tax on the air you breathe, it's just rolled into your property taxes. LOL!! The _windowserver process is a part of the Operating System. Especially Mojave. When you upgraded, all bets are off. I wish you would have stayed on High Sierra. Mojave has all sorts of quirks, and unless you have a brand new Mac-whatever, you really can't take advantage of all of its features. "Oooh Dark Mode." Yeah...I'd rather not have all sorts of problems with Photoshop...but that's just me.

From what I see in the list, you have a bunch of things running and only have 16GB of RAM. There is only so much we can do. Remember, each browser you have open consumes memory, Each Browser Tab also takes up RAM, so if you are the type that has 30 tabs open at all times, that's an issue. There is also this ID.me and dropbox that is taking some RAM. I'm also noticing a _windowserver process that's taking up a half a gig of RAM. Here is some info on it and possibly something you could turn off (reduce transparency.) Have you given this article a read? It's pretty well laid out and is the same stuff that I would tell you to try.

Not energy. I need a screenshot of Memory. Click between CPU and energy. Since you are using Mojave, you need to be running CleanMyMac X. They seem to be running sales now, as they are trying to get people to upgrade. That said, if you own CleanMyMac 3, to Upgrade to CleanMyMac X should be discounted. I think I got it for around $20 or so but then again, I was one of the first people to upgrade to CMM X.

That Update has a TON of issues and bugs. If you do update, make sure you keep checking for updates, even though Windows says you are up-to-date. For those reading this thread, make sure the "Cumulative Update for Windows 1809" gets installed. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 checks to appear. The reason you can't install the update, is you don't have any room on your C Drive. 42.5GB Free is VERY DANGEROUS and is NOT enough room for a Windows Update. In fact all sorts of weird problems can happen. This is why I jump up-and-down about 250GB or 128GB SSD drives for main drives. Sure they are fast...but it they won't do you a damn bit of good if they are full. These days I recommend a BARE-MINIMUM of a 500GB SSD, and prefer a 1TB SSD for your main drive. With the Samsung EVO 870 drives being released, they are trying to get rid of the EVO 860 Stock, so you can get some pretty good deals. I HIGHLY recommend you replace your 250GB SSD Drive with this Samsung EVO 860 1TB drive. Speed isn't your issue, it's lack of space and right now you are in dangerous territory...meaning you could have corruption and the whole thing goes. So yes, a new computer might be in your future, or if you want to tackle replacing the main drive, that is an option. In either case, before we address the other issues, you need more room. Honestly, with PS getting more and more advanced, it doesn't surprise me that it's not liking older hardware.

The MacOS has its own version of the Windows' Task Manager. Click your Applications Folder and head to utilities. Select Activity Monitor and then click the Memory Tab. The items at the top are usually the ones consuming the most memory. The "Kernel_Task" at the top of the list is the OS itself. I'm more interested in items #2-10. Here is a sample of what mine looks like:

In Safari, open the File menu and choose Export Bookmarks. Save the bookmarks.html file to your desktop. In Firefox, open the Bookmarks menu and choose Show All Bookmarks. In the Library window, click the Import and Backup button and choose Import Bookmarks from HTML. Select the bookmarks.html file that was created on the desktop. Once your Bookmarks are back, delete the html file from your Desktop. From what I can see, you seem to be running two different versions of CleanMyMac at the same time. Un-install the older version and reboot.

SAFARI IS A RAM HOG!!! DO NOT USE SAFARI!! PLEASE DOWNLOAD AND USE FIREFOX!!! The only time I use Safari on my iMac is to download Firefox. As far as disk space, you really don't want to go above 70% on a Mac, whether that is the internal HD or an external HD. If you have a full external, that could cause issues. So while you are trying to figure things out, just use your laptop and have nothing connected. Instead of unchecking "Use Graphics Processor," I'd turn it back on and hit the "Advanced Settings" button and set the drawing mode to "Basic." Also, try freeing up more space on your HD. 390GB is decent, let's try to get that to around 500GB and see what happens. Oh, one more thing... How much crap do you have on your desktop? This is what your desktop should look like: The more files and folders you have on the desktop, the more resources are used by the OS and the slower the damn thing runs. So even though you have around 390GB free on the HD, your desktop should be immaculate. Now, I get it...it's easy to put things on the desktop for ease of access, like uploading photos to your printer or website. The trick is not to have them permanently reside on the desktop. The reason is, the MacOS treats ANY files or folders on the desktop as open windows, whether if you are using them or not. Got 1000 photos of the Smith Jones Wedding? That's 1000 open files...at least as far as the Operating System is concerned.

The cheaper one is Thunderbolt 2 and last year’s model. The more expensive one is Thunderbolt 3, which is faster. If your iMac is from 2017 or has a Thunderbolt 3.0 Port, yes...it’s worth getting Thunderbolt 3.0. With Thunderbolt 3.0, it's hard to tell if you are working off your Internal HD or an EHD. It's that fast. If your iMac is a few years old or only has Thunderbolt 2.0, you can get the cheaper drive. For a donation try this link: https://www.paypal.me/brianhermans