Brian

@MorganLSilk - Sorry for my initial lame response. I've been traveling recently and just got back home. But as I've said above, bags are a real personal thing and I'm still on a quest to find the "Perfect Bag." If you aren't looking for a backpack, this is my other camera bags that is my go-to. I can transport a 70-200, D850/D4s with 24-70 attached and use the 3rd section for either my SB-5000 Flash or 14-24mm lens. There is a large compartment that holds a 10.9" iPad, which might work for your tablet. Think Tank Photo Retrospective 30 V2.0 Shoulder Bag (Pinestone) Oh, here is my "Wedding Kit" bag that I lug to all my Weddings: Think Tank Photo Airport International V3.0 Carry On (Black) The Airport International fits in all sorts of over-head bins in airplanes and is built like a tank. The standard one is a little larger vs the International version. This was my first Think Tank Bag and I've had it for 13 or so years and it's still going strong. Yes, it was pricey for me at the time, I mean...who spends $400+ on a camera bag, but my Gawd...this sucker holds a lot and takes all sorts of abuse. Finally, I've seen Susan Stripling mention this Think Tank Bag on several occasions over the years: Think Tank Airport Roller Derby Rolling Camera Case It may not be what you are looking for, but is worth mentioning.

This is my go-to bag. I've traveled all throughout the USA and have been to Canada with it. Think Tank Photo Shape Shifter 17 V2.0 Backpack (Black) There is a back compartment that I use to transport my iPad, in addition to my D850/D4s, 24-70, 70-200 & 14-24. Plus cards, chargers, batteries, etc. That sucker can hold A LOT, and of course you could hit 50lbs or more very easily if you aren't careful. This bag is also small enough to fit under a seat in an Airplane or in a overhead bin. Straps are comfy too, especially when holding a lot of gear. I haven't found a better backpack for lugging things in Airports.

It used to be that you would just drag the program from the Applications Folder to the Trash and empty it. That's the official way since 1984. Since programs are more robust, and this one directly influences settings on your Mac, it might have a bit of left-overs, in which CleanMyMac X might find for you.

I'd SKIP this laptop completely. Why? Because the Video Card is WOEFULLY UNDER-POWERED FOR TODAY'S MODERN PHOTOSHOP. You want a NVIDIA RTX 4070 or NVIDIA RTX 4080 with at least 8GB of dedicated Video RAM. Also, the screen isn't IPS based. It sounds like you are on a limited budget. Please-please-please keep saving. Because if you buy something that "you can afford," you are going to be replacing this model within a year or so. I hate wasting money on technology. Buy it Right, But it Once! This Lenovo Laptop is what you are looking for. Here are the specs: Notice how the Tech Info specifically mentions IPS multiple times? There is a reason for this, because they are a better and higher-end screen that costs more to make. Why is IPS such a big deal? An IPS Screen has consistent colors, contrast, sharpness, brightness and has a greater viewing angle which makes it better for editing photos and video. Since you are here asking about that laptop, chances are you are into editing photos. Now if you are determined to buy that laptop, I'D HIGHLY RECOMMEND AN EXTERNAL SCREEN and to start saving for the next laptop you are going to buy within 18-24 months. Or sooner. Or, if you want to throw money away, send it to me, I take donations.

Also, if you load images into Lightroom and then Photoshop, make sure LR is setup properly in the "External Editing" Tab. You want to make sure you are at 8 Bit. Speaking of which, double-check ALL of your PS Settings, on both your computer and your friend's. Follow this article from top-to-bottom: Setting Up Photoshop

Honestly? To get all the bits and pieces left over from the program is to use the un-installer that is part of CleanMyMac X from MacPaw.com. Do you have CleanMyMac X?

Video Cards the same? Drivers the same revision? Sometimes a person will have a computer, such as a laptop, that has two video cards installed and Photoshop is using the lower-powered one, which uses the RAM instead of dedicated Video Memory. Adobe’s products are utilizing the Video GPU more-and-more. Believe it or not, the choice of buying a better GPU is more important than the CPU. The thinking of, I have a fast CPU, lots of RAM and a big HD, so my computer is more-better-er is from 30+ years ago. This no longer applies heading into 2025.

The biggest thing with ANY Laptop used for Photo / Video editing is the IPS Screen. I don’t care about how much the manufacturer claims that it’s 100% Adobe RGB or whatever, it needs to be a IPS Screen. If the laptop doesn’t say that it’s IPS, chances are, it’s not a IPS Screen. The problem is, people want portability and want it to replace their desktops. Those laptops tend to be the larger models and the reason has to do with needing a larger battery to support the higher end components and heat dissipation. The faster and more powerful it is, the hotter it runs. That’s why you don’t typically see 13” Laptops that are as light as a feather AND have the same horsepower as a 17” beefy model. So in reality, it sounds like you need a full desktop and something portable that you don’t edit on. I know, that’s not what you want to hear.

I like ThinkTank and Mindshift Gear Bags. They are pricey, but last forever. Bags are one of those things that you will never be completely satisfied with; and I have a bunch to prove this statement. https://www.thinktankphoto.com There are lots of YouTube Videos demonstrating their bags. Pelican also makes good stuff as well.

Soon. Apple is planning on releasing an updated Mac Mini with a M4 chip, and a few Mac Book Pro M4 updates. I'm thinking the Mac Studio M4 will be in early 2025. Hopefully by the beginning of November I will have a better roadmap.

It's "fine." If it has a 4090, so-be-it. A 4080 or 4070 will also work well. The reason I say the 4090 is "Overkill," is because Photoshop isn't programmed to take advantage of what makes a 4090 so fast. The biggest thing with a Laptop, and is the NUMBER ONE THING, is that it has a IPS Based Display. So if the Lenovo has a IPS Display Panel, meets my recommendations and you can afford it, BUY IT. If there is an option for a 4080 Lenovo and it's a few hundred less, save the money and get the slightly lower version, because it's not going to make THAT much of a difference when it comes to Photoshop. But if it comes with a 4090, it comes with a 4090, you can't go wrong either way. Just make sure you run Lenovo's Update Utility software and DOWNLOAD/UPDATE ALL OF THE LAPTOP'S DRIVERS. Photoshop is a little weird with Lenovo Laptops with outdated drivers. Also run Windows Update before you install anything as well.

Actually, Windows Defender works really well for what it does and that comes built-in with Windows. You just have to run Windows Updates on a normal basis to make sure that it's up-to-date. As far as a Anti-Virus, I recommend WEBROOT...but I will warn you, WEBROOT is a little "Hyper" and often gets in your way. LOL!! Now, people don't get "Viruses" any more. It's keyloggers, Ransomware, Trojans, and ways to get your banking and CC Info...the Scum who do such things just want your money. It's not so much about "Bragging Rights" infecting the Planet's computers as it is of who can make the most money in the 21st Century. It's all about the money; get-the-money-get-the-money-get-the-money!!!! In fact, A LOT of Viruses that Anti-Virus Programs "cured" were created by the Anti Virus Companies themselves!! (I'm looking at you, Peter Norton.) Invent a problem and sell a cure... Online Banking is actually pretty decent, and I'd recommend using a SmartPhone Banking App vs. a Browser, AND MAKE SURE YOUR BANKING APPS ARE UP-TO-DATE AT ALL TIMES. In reality, the biggest risk is the person sitting behind the keyboard; the ones who download things or quite frankly, do stupid things. (Like believing the Pop-Ups stating that you have some sort of virus or whatever, and then calling the number or clicking the link. THAT'S how you get into trouble.) VPN Companies are trying to sell you their wares, and they use fear tactics trying to convince you that there is always something lurking. While it's true to a degree, you need to take things with a Grain-of-Salt. If you are into downloading Torrents and other illegal things, you are going to catch something with a greater probability. If you answer those stupid Facebook Quiz's that determine "What Color is your Belly Button's Lint" or "What Kind of Potato are you?," you are going to get hacked sooner or later. It's the, "What was your first car?" "How far away do you live from your childhood home?" "Who was your favorite Teacher?" If you answer ANY of those things, even in a "safe" environment, may not be as secure as one would think. Often, there are "Bots" (Automated Computer Software) that posts those things, with a "Spoofed" account and you have no idea who is behind that account. Personally, I haven't run a Anti-Virus program in years. I also watch YouTube Videos of people going after Scammers, just to see HOW the Scum does things. Granted, it's a bit sensationalized to make things entertaining, but there is a lot of nuggets of wisdom in those videos. Here are some that I usually watch on a semi-normal basis: Scammer Payback Jim Browning Kitboga There are others, but those should get you started if you are interested. Pay attention to the scammers and what they say, and the screens that pop-up. The more informed you are, the less likely you are going to suffer from things.

I just see two black boxes. Personally, I HATE Laptops being used for photo editing. There was a period that I flat-out wouldn't recommend ANY, but people have a stupid love-affair with Laptops, and I got tired of fighting. So, if I had a choice between a Laptop and Desktop for Photo-Editing, it's the Desktop all-day-long.

That should work fine, even for the next 3-4 years. The RAM really becomes an issue if you have a high MP Camera and want to batch lots of photos at the same time. The problem with Apple's products, and a lot of Windows Based Laptops, is there isn't a true way to upgrade things down the line. Things are soldered to the board and the slots for you to add things like RAM, simply do not exist. Enjoy your purchase and use it as long as you can.

For the most part, yes. This is what you are looking for: So what kind of specs are you looking for? Here is the rundown: Current Intel i7 or i9 CPU 32GB RAM (Minimum) / 64GB RAM if you have a High MP Camera (45MP or more) 1TB Main HD NVIDIA RTX 4070 or NVIDIA RTX 4080 with at least 8GB Dedicated Video Memory. (More is always better, so if it has 12GB of Video RAM, that's awesome.) Power Supply that's beefy enough to support everything, probably 750 Watts to 850 Watts. Case with good airflow. Windows 11 Home is fine for the average person. For power users like me, or if you don't want Windows to get in the way with a stupid Wizard when you are trying to fix things, get Windows 11 Pro. For users like me, I always get the "Pro" Editions. As far as the Dell XPS, I still recommend them from as a starting point. Some people don't like Dell, and that's fine...just look for similar specs to my recommendation. No matter what you do, do not get a main hard drive that is smaller than 1TB!! Don't even bother with a 500GB Drive. 2TB is a bit overkill, but I won't fault you for getting one, as there is no such thing as too much storage space. Oh, the choice of Video Card is extremely important with "Today's Modern Photoshop." You want at least a RTX 4070 or in my opinion, the best bang for the buck RTX 4080. AVOID getting a RTX 4060 or RTX 4050. While these cards might work in the short term, you will have LESS PROBLEMS in the future if you go with a 4070 or 4080 card. 8GB Video RAM at a Minimum, but if you get one that has 12GB or even 16GB VRAM, even better. Photoshop is becoming a REAL BEAST these days with all of the AI Crap and such.

Let's wait and see what the early adopters discover. For all we know, the M4 Mac Mini could have issues with PS, and until Adobe fixes things, it could be the spring of 2025 which is when the Mac Studio should be refreshed.

I'm still on the fence with this one. The M4 Mac Mini is rumored to be similar in size to a Apple TV, though a little taller. I'm thinking it's going to be similar in size to some HP Docking Stations, such as this one. Though I could be completely wrong. My gut answer is to go for the Mac Studio as there is more computer with more ports and better air-flow vs the Mac Mini. Heat is the enemy of electronics. That said, I can see why you are tempted by the M4 Mini. Hmmm... At the earliest, Spring of 2025 is when I expect to see a refresh of the Mac Studio. Apple typically likes updating the Mini and the MacBooks in the Fall, and the Desktop Models in the Spring of the given year. Either way, you are buying the stupidly over-priced Apple Studio Display, to go with either Desktop. So if you NEED a computer, LIKE NOW...try the new M4 Mac Mini and get the Apple Studio Display. If the Mini doesn't meet your needs, you can still keep the Studio Display and upgrade at a later point. I do anticipate the prices of the M4 Mac Mini to be similar to the current one, in which case you are only saving about $50-ish going with a lower computer. Bah!! Now I want to recommend the Mac Studio. Flip a coin. There is no "Best" answer. The cost of a tricked out Mini is only slightly less than a Studio. While the M4 will be "better," the current Mac Studio will still hold its own. Right now it's going to be a few years until PS takes over the performance base of the current Mac Studio. It takes about 7 years or so before Photoshop starts being a PITA to run on older hardware, and with our 2017 iMacs...we are right at that point. So I'd say you are looking about 6-7 years before you have to buy another computer, either way you go.

One more thing. If you can wait until Early November, do so. Apple has released new Mac Laptop models in October over the years and I’d hate for you to fork out money only to discover that Apple refreshed the model you ended up buying.

Actually, once you have done this a few times, it’s pretty straightforward. Up at 2TB is easy. 3TB or more, there is an extra step. In case you are wondering exFAT allows both Mac & Windows Users to read/write to a EHD. Sounds like a good thing, right? WRONG. exFAT can be unpredictable and unstable at times, in which case your data goes “poof.” I do not screw around when it comes to my data. Which is why I will never recommend it being used by our members here. In my humble opinion, exFAT is something that Microsoft invented in their proverbial garage while tinkering with stuff, and never put THAT much effort into making it as stable as NTFS.

Here is a direct link: Buy Brian a Beer!

Here are my instructions again... Deleting a Windows Partition and creating a new one is pretty straightforward; it just takes a "Common Sense Approach" and few minutes to complete. No special Utility Software is needed, especially software from the Hard Drive Manufactures; all that is required is built into the Windows Operating System. Personally, the software from the Manufacturer usually just gets in the way and causes more issues. Again, all that you need is built into the Windows OS. Let's begin! Right-Click on the Start Button and select Disk Management: This will bring up the main Disk Management Utility Window. Make note of which hard drives are currently mounted: Now insert the EHD into your USB port and allow it to mount/spin up. It should appear in the list. In this example, note "Disk 1" that appeared in the list. This will be the drive that I will modifying; your Disk Number might be different. There is no difference, it's just another number in the list. It could be listed as "Disk 3" or even "Disk 5," THE IMPORTANT THING IS THAT WE CHOOSE THE CORRECT DRIVE! Select the Partition that you would like to Delete. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE "EFI SYSTEM PARTITION." Pick the box next to it. The box will go from a plain white background to one that has slashes in it and should be highlighted. This is Windows' way of letting you know which Partition you have chosen: Now Right-Click on that Partition and select Delete Volume. It should go without saying, that you really-really-really want to be sure that this is the correct Partition to delete. A Warning Message will appear asking for permission to delete. If the Partition was created on another type of OS, such as a Mac, this error message will appear differently. This is completely normal, just click "Yes" and wait a few seconds. Error Warning with a Windows-Created Partition: Error Warning with a Macintosh-Created Partition: Now your Disk Management should have your EHD as a large, solid/continuous black line: At this point, if your HD is 2TB or smaller, we can continue with the Wizard to create a new Partition. If your EHD is 3TB or Larger, then we will need to covert the Drive from a MBR Disk to a GPT Disk. This step ONLY affects those with EHDs that are 3TB or larger. GPT is meant to create a single partition that is larger than 3TB since MBR has a 2TB maximum limit. Make sense? To convert it to a GPT Disk, right click on the Disk # in the left column you are modifying and select "Convert to GPT Disk" and follow the prompts. (Click OK, OK, etc., etc.) Note: I do not have a 3TB Drive hooked up for this document, and am using this next example as a guide. Your 3TB HD will be larger in capacity than my smaller one that I'm using in this tutorial. The important thing is to right-click on the Drive # box that you want to convert to a GPT Disk: After Right-Clicking on the Drive # square in the left column, select "Convert to GPT Disk" and follow the prompts. Again, this is only for the folks who have 3TB or larger Hard Drives! Now for the fun part, creating a new Partition! Right click on the area that has a black stripe and select, "New Simple Volume." The Wizard should appear, click Next: Specify the Volume Size. For the majority and this example, we will leave it at the default, which is the maximum capacity of the drive. If you are going to create multiple partitions on this Hard Drive at different sizes, I'd use an online calculator tool to create the size you need. For example, if you wanted to create a 6TB partition, you would enter 6,291,456. But to keep things simple for this set of instructions, leave it at the default and click Next. Assign a Drive Letter. This is the spot that you can assign a drive letter if you choose. For example, if this EHD is one that will contain personal files. we could change the Drive Letter to P:\ for "Personal Drive." Again, this is completely up to you to decide. There is no right or wrong answer. If you'd like all of your EHDs to be the "E Drive" (i.e. E:\ ) then change the default to E by clicking the Down Arrow next to the Drive Letter and selecting E. After making your choice, click Next. We will leave it at "D" for this example. The next screen is very important. It's the "Format Partition" selection. For today's modern Windows Computers' hard drives that are meant for permanent storage, you want to use NTFS for the file system on a Windows HD. Some devices like Thumb Drives, you would want to use FAT32. Again, for this example we will leave it at the default of NTFS. The Allocation Size should be left at the default and it is highly recommended that you give your HD a name, to keep things organized. "Data," "Photos," "EHD #2," etc. are all examples. Keep is short and simple. Before clicking Next, be sure to click the check-box next to "Perform a quick format!" Otherwise it will take HOURS to format your HD! Leave the "Enable file and folder compression" UN-CHECKED. Click Next. A Summary Window should appear with your selections. Confirm them if you'd like and click Finish. The Hard Drive will begin the process and Windows will assign it a letter and name. This process should take less than 30 seconds, but this depends on the speed of your computer and Hard Drive. Some complete this task in as little as 5-7 seconds, others take longer. When completed, the Disk Manger should have the drive in the list, along with the name that you chose for the drive: Exit out of the Disk Manger and either use "This PC" or the "Windows Explorer" to use the new Drive. With any new Hard Drive, now is the time to think of a Directory Structure on how you want to organize your Hard Drive. This is completely up to you, but I would take the time and think of how you are going to store stuff, rather than it become a dumping ground for your files/images. Here is one example: You could also keep things very simple, and have folders that are just the year: The sky's the limit! So make your Directory Structure a good one!

YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE EXFAT!!! I’m glad you asked. You should be able to right click on the exFAT and select delete partition. Then it should have a black line across. Then right click again and it should have the add simple volume (I’m on my phone and it’s been ages since I’ve done this, so if you want screenshots, I will add later.) Anyway the trick is to delete that exFAT Partition and create a NTFS Partition in its place. Then do a quick format on the new partition.

You are looking for two different things: 1. Cheap 2. Portable. Now those two terms aren’t usually in the same sentence when it comes to Apple. Then throw in Adobe’s nonsense of making their products BEASTS and you will have a recipe for disaster. Here is the thing, yes…you can go cheap and get a MacBook Air. Will it work for now, probably. Will you likely have issues as Photoshop gets updated as the months go on? Also yes. When I configure things, I have a 7 year life span in mind. Especially when folks are looking for their Mac Laptops to become desktop replacements. You can have your proverbial cake and eat it to…for a price. Which is more than you are willing to spend. So the real question is, how comfortable are you forking out the cash to go cheap, only to be right back in this situation about 18 months? Personally, I hate wasting money on this shit and blowing $2100 (plus AppleCare & Applicable Taxes) only-to-blow-another-$4500-in-18-24-months-because-you-realized-that-by-cheaping-out-was-the-absolute-worse-thing- you-could-do, you end up spending more than $6500!! If it were me, I’d bite the bullet and get a Mac Book Pro. Granted, ANYTHING will be better than what you have now, so I can see the appeal and why you want to save money. If you must, please configure it with 24GB of RAM and GET A 1TB HD. Just expect to be in the market sooner, rather than later if you go the MacBook Air route.

Since you are in Oz, your Amazon is quite limited. What you are looking for something like this: Dell 32" Monitor - P3223QE In addition to the IPS Screen, what you are looking for in a Dell Monitor is the "Screen Coating," you want it to be Anti-Glare, 3H Hard Coating. If you look in the Technical Specifications, it should appear something like this: Now, if you look closely, the monitor I linked to is the "P" 3223QE, which doesn't have the glossy screen. So even though the displays look nearly identical, this small model number difference makes all the difference in the world. I agree with Damien, avoid the "U" 3223QE at all costs. Look for a Dell P3223QE. Even if you have to purchase it directly from Dell.

"Sales" and Laptops happen typically in August, before College Students go back to classes. Then the Fall Line (in the northern hemisphere) models come out. Laptops are typically "En Vogue" for about 90-Days or so. Sometimes, they can linger for a bit longer...say around 6 Months, then around the 8-9 Month Mark, they will be discontinued and prices at "Limited Stock Available" will start to become more common. That's the problem waiting for sales and me creating What-to-Buy Links; I've given up. Things just move too quickly and if you don't buy it when I first link to it, and wait for a "sale," you will come away disappointed. Now, I get wanting to save money, but trying to find THE biggest requirement, IPS-Based Display Panel is TOUGH. It's a down-right Pain in the Ass to find one. While "IPS-Like" is better than a TN Panel, it's always better to get the true IPS version. What's so great about IPS? Things like Contrast, Color, Sharpness, Brightness, etc. are better overall corner-to-corner. Plus you have a much greater viewing angle. Simply put, if you are editing Photos & Video, it's best for you to work with a IPS-Based Display. If you can't find a laptop that has one, then purchase a nice 27" external monitor to edit off from. "But that will cut down on portability!! I MUST be able to edit next to the Pool while my Kids swim!!!" or "I can't be chained to a Desk!!! I must be able to edit photos in the Passenger Seat while my family drives to vacation at the Beach!!!" Trust me, I've heard it all. I don't care...if you want my opinion and want to ask what I would buy, it's a IPS Display Panel for editing Photos & Video. Period. Now for your laptop... BUY THIS AND BE HAPPY.